tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30286752869095512632024-03-06T12:00:55.157-08:00Follow The Sykes BirdsTom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.comBlogger192125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-55623739066655745052022-07-30T15:04:00.007-07:002022-08-15T13:18:40.668-07:00Colombia 2022 Part 3<div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZlCIxYwtLqdC2BmBSSqsce2cRpq6pRlR7bUf0y8XNUnyL_ysd1OThmrFh7Yfl2lS-QTJQo8CI0jkTpaAWU0hpP5wd59FSnvWUCyJxQTTDEsIDctfy4ZHR0xlETCEMrHR0Bwzq0mXHA8UIi-oCUAQOCZILtjmlYqW8Rz5uf4NQuTg8RB5weXcUnaQTw/s7842/IMG_5953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3952" data-original-width="7842" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZlCIxYwtLqdC2BmBSSqsce2cRpq6pRlR7bUf0y8XNUnyL_ysd1OThmrFh7Yfl2lS-QTJQo8CI0jkTpaAWU0hpP5wd59FSnvWUCyJxQTTDEsIDctfy4ZHR0xlETCEMrHR0Bwzq0mXHA8UIi-oCUAQOCZILtjmlYqW8Rz5uf4NQuTg8RB5weXcUnaQTw/s320/IMG_5953.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Back on the road we needed a lunch stop. Passing through the town of Pereira, Nick suggested a place he had been at in the past known for its frijoles, aptly named "<a href="https://www.facebook.com/RestauranteDonFrijolesOficialPereira" target="_blank">Don Frijoles</a>". Turned out to be one of a small locals chains and certainly one of the more "colorful" places we've eaten. Most of us settled for a traditional Bogotá meal consisting of chicken soup along with several garnishes.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhav3t_NV7iZ8DcYaPeyOb0vTzGeraXud4bEoYgL9rgk7v81SVzLVEMnoDGhpfjw3hkaN699E7ol-ht58EUPdPr0FpgIxxI5vI7PZ1s38r9rfjL8pg-VCuf8A2nJglk7Rg2gnsvkrz3CU_f93gPGXCg49_LerNbDw2pzUP5E6iubuXhPb4cfS9dQhvN_Q/s1421/293043247_1634840946900645_78004245708197228_n.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="948" data-original-width="1421" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhav3t_NV7iZ8DcYaPeyOb0vTzGeraXud4bEoYgL9rgk7v81SVzLVEMnoDGhpfjw3hkaN699E7ol-ht58EUPdPr0FpgIxxI5vI7PZ1s38r9rfjL8pg-VCuf8A2nJglk7Rg2gnsvkrz3CU_f93gPGXCg49_LerNbDw2pzUP5E6iubuXhPb4cfS9dQhvN_Q/s320/293043247_1634840946900645_78004245708197228_n.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5egK-a475R31ACV_sm6pCEJ1dIFF3UEgDfzM5vFjfrPFvscaf3ED-L_CvyrbY60qpVOQGebuAM0xwb6X-6yZprgRP4fVLajHAL3Ea7o4AqSvx2ZVOYB5Wq2SJyFJNiyjv6lDKNM3nS_BZ9Thg_df7THz--ogsiGUfCiSak5nml89xpMp2Q9R8o8vELw/s4032/IMG_7762%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5egK-a475R31ACV_sm6pCEJ1dIFF3UEgDfzM5vFjfrPFvscaf3ED-L_CvyrbY60qpVOQGebuAM0xwb6X-6yZprgRP4fVLajHAL3Ea7o4AqSvx2ZVOYB5Wq2SJyFJNiyjv6lDKNM3nS_BZ9Thg_df7THz--ogsiGUfCiSak5nml89xpMp2Q9R8o8vELw/s320/IMG_7762%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4AzUyBBNaRZj74kz-xnxk-dNth7WsRzON4tSRRDrHLp5vez3JouA3eIAklBwD_heb-OmEaHFzjm-TewA-3tdLeyr1ntp60mwutojJu9HjqAczss11ZbTQLykSD4yYGGh8Go8He0PLQKZZRAFAqelQ_uXhU6EEPnSsU8sYWP56hGMKtPbBti5a7W17A/s4032/IMG_7764%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4AzUyBBNaRZj74kz-xnxk-dNth7WsRzON4tSRRDrHLp5vez3JouA3eIAklBwD_heb-OmEaHFzjm-TewA-3tdLeyr1ntp60mwutojJu9HjqAczss11ZbTQLykSD4yYGGh8Go8He0PLQKZZRAFAqelQ_uXhU6EEPnSsU8sYWP56hGMKtPbBti5a7W17A/s320/IMG_7764%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDSkxRvB1eUicmKPRxRJqhjVb3ESJzt1GIyBq8dEV7yn-2uZocktP52T1O3gLJ62hO-hoL303qONXFEPWQo_DXG0-oDzMBaCi3x3RzO50vD_5Yo7owAGhW8kCdr213mTCbxpKt218sbcBDRQVvMYLJy7o2UG9k-alPFxnI39H68alYz3yajl9RddfPTg/s4032/IMG_7765%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDSkxRvB1eUicmKPRxRJqhjVb3ESJzt1GIyBq8dEV7yn-2uZocktP52T1O3gLJ62hO-hoL303qONXFEPWQo_DXG0-oDzMBaCi3x3RzO50vD_5Yo7owAGhW8kCdr213mTCbxpKt218sbcBDRQVvMYLJy7o2UG9k-alPFxnI39H68alYz3yajl9RddfPTg/s320/IMG_7765%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Our next stop was in the small town of Pueblo Rico where we transferred luggage and ourselves into yet more 4WD vehicles for the drive to the <a href="https://montezumarainforest.com" target="_blank">Montezuma Rainforest Ecolodge</a>, gateway to sections of the Tatamá National Park where we spent the remaining three days of our tour. So many 4WD vehicles on the same day!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4EiUdKa7Upbg-MbZwIvP9Eq8v5jHyrdDFvfuQHYsqv8TBpbT-lac3zoD2K2q60_qbVtYO_ypSjGvu_d7JyK-OqsduKpU8UMpLdVQnP4pMhjEBh-C6v9gYIBsRSCAdGLSpzVyRDUbDzRS5rvLH5n5PFz_8HG_-QYmu-2l7ZCS4L0AqoBIxgTuUa94SIA/s720/tabascofamily.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="451" data-original-width="720" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4EiUdKa7Upbg-MbZwIvP9Eq8v5jHyrdDFvfuQHYsqv8TBpbT-lac3zoD2K2q60_qbVtYO_ypSjGvu_d7JyK-OqsduKpU8UMpLdVQnP4pMhjEBh-C6v9gYIBsRSCAdGLSpzVyRDUbDzRS5rvLH5n5PFz_8HG_-QYmu-2l7ZCS4L0AqoBIxgTuUa94SIA/s320/tabascofamily.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tabasco family - Michelle in center, Yesinna, blue shirt/black vest</td></tr></tbody></table>The lodge is operated by the Tapasco family, headed by Michelle Tapasco. Her daughter Yesinna was our local guide. A delightful knowledgeable bright young woman, clearly dedicated to preserving the family’s 400 hectare property and who knew every twist and curve of the main road.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb4PeMLKDn68Umgvdyq4ECfKGRQm503diSiCjIR2jZgtkS2YYrxewrnpn0stBqVIVPKgngthgCQDEJdrAiC3ZLq8vKbzu-7OXWNdnSHX5hLa86gzg4G2PMDpFiQ3ea7_ltnKZYt9KQxqSVMf-Kopyj9i1GYPr9N0bk1AvrFa2s_d-6qtXoDskmOrPQQQ/s2854/IMG_7771%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2137" data-original-width="2854" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb4PeMLKDn68Umgvdyq4ECfKGRQm503diSiCjIR2jZgtkS2YYrxewrnpn0stBqVIVPKgngthgCQDEJdrAiC3ZLq8vKbzu-7OXWNdnSHX5hLa86gzg4G2PMDpFiQ3ea7_ltnKZYt9KQxqSVMf-Kopyj9i1GYPr9N0bk1AvrFa2s_d-6qtXoDskmOrPQQQ/s320/IMG_7771%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY82sLd9YQVWeaYAYh_oThWma9no1_qeIa-alyz9GqYV1GhygEg5ti8CMVw3b0RJNP5S1bF7QsF-0oX0bzr53kFHGJkdEGO7JQ-lz-t-WOL-zDNEhXp48OMu4aIzdKsreljHaqWvNclAF2JWV3jroNMXal9DOY7Qrd3Kp1sG2Hv1jgHudRX11o6ic-1g/s2216/IMG_5740.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2216" data-original-width="2195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY82sLd9YQVWeaYAYh_oThWma9no1_qeIa-alyz9GqYV1GhygEg5ti8CMVw3b0RJNP5S1bF7QsF-0oX0bzr53kFHGJkdEGO7JQ-lz-t-WOL-zDNEhXp48OMu4aIzdKsreljHaqWvNclAF2JWV3jroNMXal9DOY7Qrd3Kp1sG2Hv1jgHudRX11o6ic-1g/s320/IMG_5740.jpg" width="317" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">digiscoping Red-headed Barbet</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIQXT-8zCupqtlxKs6CORq1VSyswlJtZFlDPDYPFLS69vIHi3YwBXZtSzcPMdZeKbKxISl7KZZ7VTm1zqJAfkCqJ_BG3C5MCZYD58u8joHobUBZLDM8NfUUpsnYIi8wR975q1E5R--iBcktGPrAfx17lt_tJ3BmTEQ9TfrH7PBnFxjABDsERKR3QpoLQ/s4032/IMG_7770%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIQXT-8zCupqtlxKs6CORq1VSyswlJtZFlDPDYPFLS69vIHi3YwBXZtSzcPMdZeKbKxISl7KZZ7VTm1zqJAfkCqJ_BG3C5MCZYD58u8joHobUBZLDM8NfUUpsnYIi8wR975q1E5R--iBcktGPrAfx17lt_tJ3BmTEQ9TfrH7PBnFxjABDsERKR3QpoLQ/s320/IMG_7770%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br />The central kitchen and dining area was surrounded by flowering plants and feeders attracting a wide variety of birds. A delight to be seated with a beverage watching birds coming and going. Hummingbirds, tanagers, euphonias, etc. Toucan Barbets and Red-headed Barbets were crowd pleasers. There were a number of cabins within easy walking distance offering comfortable accommodations.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGA9S8N58VQM0yzFGYCf2gujFJZz1-wq4F2ciz8uUAc1IPpStNKeFh4o9BrE_6y9ZVl_QDmO8lf6e6E8Azb9eBPljKOcLKRNrxrGxEodPU1tzjynaVnXAFHpZMZYRelobFgGtp_-5dO1SpjKZEbuNlgdKOw8aMKL4FdiKzMhpc-lQMA-DwhMl2Nohfkg/s666/Capto_Capture%202022-07-30_01-20-05_PM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="666" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGA9S8N58VQM0yzFGYCf2gujFJZz1-wq4F2ciz8uUAc1IPpStNKeFh4o9BrE_6y9ZVl_QDmO8lf6e6E8Azb9eBPljKOcLKRNrxrGxEodPU1tzjynaVnXAFHpZMZYRelobFgGtp_-5dO1SpjKZEbuNlgdKOw8aMKL4FdiKzMhpc-lQMA-DwhMl2Nohfkg/s320/Capto_Capture%202022-07-30_01-20-05_PM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tanager Finch Photo: Nick Athanas</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLhgWYR-_OgXKP5si-j6x1rX1UomxsKaeJ37WnK20lC8nKemTLBWyWOBhg-BlL4f04DUYdvczV22KaXrI8hUomzcIWFZQt_4OocP-DL6jJMXmFhxEBBIZIOkPqqalxIjjgGaG7Ppy9YaSFabFeJrpDpjug_FR7oS026yJl59nW4iPzW3L8j2xDKY0lw/s4032/IMG_5901.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLhgWYR-_OgXKP5si-j6x1rX1UomxsKaeJ37WnK20lC8nKemTLBWyWOBhg-BlL4f04DUYdvczV22KaXrI8hUomzcIWFZQt_4OocP-DL6jJMXmFhxEBBIZIOkPqqalxIjjgGaG7Ppy9YaSFabFeJrpDpjug_FR7oS026yJl59nW4iPzW3L8j2xDKY0lw/s320/IMG_5901.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXjR2Qd7SmpO7pik2WEc4aotOCh12IZI1-Q4VFEGlfx4l9R2UXiajPmnrvgL52Gy24McotqvDTWXElPXeR3VSsflNpPi5lyT63MU-WuG5uFQUEMloH9c0Pw__7JQbyEeGMXBM3T2QbGe8F6hf3XURmYcCiNI-0kM2u7enqAQ_eCRL2Fak1eJbVgkGMQ/s5676/IMG_5891.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3946" data-original-width="5676" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXjR2Qd7SmpO7pik2WEc4aotOCh12IZI1-Q4VFEGlfx4l9R2UXiajPmnrvgL52Gy24McotqvDTWXElPXeR3VSsflNpPi5lyT63MU-WuG5uFQUEMloH9c0Pw__7JQbyEeGMXBM3T2QbGe8F6hf3XURmYcCiNI-0kM2u7enqAQ_eCRL2Fak1eJbVgkGMQ/s320/IMG_5891.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Our first morning necessitated another early start as we headed higher up the Montezuma Road. On our way we heard then found a singing Tanager Finch followed by a noisy flock of Beautiful Jays, and a rare Bicolored Antvireo.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmW9PhkKGYpdQ7ESddtHYl-NGvZNtkDg1qr4G6rR1dGMKURl_oKVESQI7dPU4ycoZtxYpWUprdb2RpUW4Hn5EH_pmBp16S755uHyrwWuAUKruaSVVip2XN5aB8ur81iyeMQ674jbCsIfKNJqyDNYmojsHP4cRpOgT6sGgTTm45UyTE7utI-mcCEZpNbw/s4032/IMG_7788%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmW9PhkKGYpdQ7ESddtHYl-NGvZNtkDg1qr4G6rR1dGMKURl_oKVESQI7dPU4ycoZtxYpWUprdb2RpUW4Hn5EH_pmBp16S755uHyrwWuAUKruaSVVip2XN5aB8ur81iyeMQ674jbCsIfKNJqyDNYmojsHP4cRpOgT6sGgTTm45UyTE7utI-mcCEZpNbw/s320/IMG_7788%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">feeding station platform</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXKY2l7NIpZAwnMDwrlXzc3VpNBH2DMhRfCjQKFX1m9P15ldklC-6RdaTBkf5kvrXoqZTc05lbVFnK42q-MuPzaAsXLVhkAHH8oO7EllKAxI9DGcaVLPqGI6-SNq2N8xxVcjuIe20jNl3e3PvdIYxDgosHyJZxwzVmpPjMapKPLShGdILXN9VdVVDwFw/s4032/IMG_7793%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXKY2l7NIpZAwnMDwrlXzc3VpNBH2DMhRfCjQKFX1m9P15ldklC-6RdaTBkf5kvrXoqZTc05lbVFnK42q-MuPzaAsXLVhkAHH8oO7EllKAxI9DGcaVLPqGI6-SNq2N8xxVcjuIe20jNl3e3PvdIYxDgosHyJZxwzVmpPjMapKPLShGdILXN9VdVVDwFw/s320/IMG_7793%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">heavily guarded commo towers behind Nick</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFkHJ13ZprDERixJCH4lYbFB0gVkVM5LcYXWDtXiwPBgvJmK7YjSm7KVm6WunBsF95lx54vJCxzG28ZJ_wkpiP5BbyMUXiiqbl1wKlQmlJP_Ow1iniyNbHjO-in-77NtzTaovRkMdOftdTJODXmqoweU4ClcS4TZB3go4uhvX1lZZzpZOKHsmTRiuEg/s4032/IMG_7783%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFkHJ13ZprDERixJCH4lYbFB0gVkVM5LcYXWDtXiwPBgvJmK7YjSm7KVm6WunBsF95lx54vJCxzG28ZJ_wkpiP5BbyMUXiiqbl1wKlQmlJP_Ow1iniyNbHjO-in-77NtzTaovRkMdOftdTJODXmqoweU4ClcS4TZB3go4uhvX1lZZzpZOKHsmTRiuEg/s320/IMG_7783%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yesennia with two of the drivers</td></tr></tbody></table>The road ended at a small feeding station platform based at the foot of a heavily guarded array of communication towers. Our target bird, Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer, was already making repeated appearances at the feeders. Boxed meals in the field can be, shall we say, a bit thin on amount and flavor. Not so with the boxed breakfasts and lunches prepared by the staff and handed out by the drivers. Way more than enough food as we watched the Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer frequent the feeders.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw09_rFi24VR4u2iSrSgwKb4pbO-A2eImZE9JSeWBSe_063gAXGE6aFtKIPb1U9FhdsJ7QlGeV1FRk1O5qB_86LyXlxT3Aja0Aq5V1ndyQxWJVcXoxAuqI8fWNJCSuZ4jzZejwHuz4kT5CQ-97ar3q33SpTfifxDHvcw3mcakA2cCNbpbEsVzRGVI9w/s1954/IMG_5771.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1954" data-original-width="1711" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw09_rFi24VR4u2iSrSgwKb4pbO-A2eImZE9JSeWBSe_063gAXGE6aFtKIPb1U9FhdsJ7QlGeV1FRk1O5qB_86LyXlxT3Aja0Aq5V1ndyQxWJVcXoxAuqI8fWNJCSuZ4jzZejwHuz4kT5CQ-97ar3q33SpTfifxDHvcw3mcakA2cCNbpbEsVzRGVI9w/s320/IMG_5771.JPG" width="280" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh76yDplk50ZKfhG1iPgUyWzXhcYDT07v1tfSZjC96SRrwWhQ2Ebh23XrHuvaWUy-zfFNc3grLapRmZC9alepQHz9RvagpNybeciuoImIYm5m0zQdKzXhX6HLEiGo4SR7c-GehzqZR-e_tsb0tW38NSAmLVoxD43q2feLVKfvRcWQQUWL-N90NOl8M7Yg/s553/Capto_Capture%202022-07-30_01-29-46_PM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="406" data-original-width="553" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh76yDplk50ZKfhG1iPgUyWzXhcYDT07v1tfSZjC96SRrwWhQ2Ebh23XrHuvaWUy-zfFNc3grLapRmZC9alepQHz9RvagpNybeciuoImIYm5m0zQdKzXhX6HLEiGo4SR7c-GehzqZR-e_tsb0tW38NSAmLVoxD43q2feLVKfvRcWQQUWL-N90NOl8M7Yg/s320/Capto_Capture%202022-07-30_01-29-46_PM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Munchique Wood-Wren Photo: Nick Athanas</td></tr></tbody></table>Walking back down a section of the road produced a colorful Purplish-mantled Tanager and a more than cooperative Munchique Wood-Wren.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDT-d9vMTEtx7Ui56QJSGMYvAi7_XTEfc0Iz3TAzVViB1pzZ-5y2XDNQjhg1wWuH7OUiG_FoHK8i_n8BNbgcKbUUwESZ0l4wPotaPs7tQ_psjtpXAytSiH7tcbt4TvQrXEO4lQ-iFcvVz9c_6bq_8QXa9CKtr6UYW_IwAVyVv6g_LiZj-bu5xTS5pSew/s4032/IMG_7808%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDT-d9vMTEtx7Ui56QJSGMYvAi7_XTEfc0Iz3TAzVViB1pzZ-5y2XDNQjhg1wWuH7OUiG_FoHK8i_n8BNbgcKbUUwESZ0l4wPotaPs7tQ_psjtpXAytSiH7tcbt4TvQrXEO4lQ-iFcvVz9c_6bq_8QXa9CKtr6UYW_IwAVyVv6g_LiZj-bu5xTS5pSew/s320/IMG_7808%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij-kOK0FWLzrhabmEW6R5YtZK3DrUtbg6Ey7hWA0qrcwLWjxI2RarAXdawYzeIYNBD4mFW-NWKlJrpiorbwrj4oNCy9qKplYBRLwlFc0L4aXymT3OMwrxcRbk7KGyBM7IwCUiS6QSlDRKHIUgiV0yhQxRmh38M27O8ffZRkZfhOrmIsCiH_OHU_tGOPA/s3771/IMG_7807%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3771" data-original-width="2894" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij-kOK0FWLzrhabmEW6R5YtZK3DrUtbg6Ey7hWA0qrcwLWjxI2RarAXdawYzeIYNBD4mFW-NWKlJrpiorbwrj4oNCy9qKplYBRLwlFc0L4aXymT3OMwrxcRbk7KGyBM7IwCUiS6QSlDRKHIUgiV0yhQxRmh38M27O8ffZRkZfhOrmIsCiH_OHU_tGOPA/s320/IMG_7807%204.jpeg" width="246" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">meals on wheels</td></tr></tbody></table>During our time at Montezuma Ecolodge the weather managed to remain pleasant although there were periods of rain. The lodge continued to supply us with tasty and filling boxed lunches (at one point delivered by motorcycle). Meals in the field allowed us to maximize our daylight birding time.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZBBWDRCQE5sBlYSQ7BAi5bpD8CPAmFgTZaCyaZeidwpNBgBLF5syevW0uaCKavgTjjXYkx3nsB_ljZLfCa4-W6YX6qvJdOqrqandboXF4-tiVGqb7dxX_zxRaSk6cMPeFNawXLkUpJS30TQkKgqKefaUtDD1gES95FvbwtJX7gPMMl6SOMwZIAscUA/s1788/IMG_5964.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1501" data-original-width="1788" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZBBWDRCQE5sBlYSQ7BAi5bpD8CPAmFgTZaCyaZeidwpNBgBLF5syevW0uaCKavgTjjXYkx3nsB_ljZLfCa4-W6YX6qvJdOqrqandboXF4-tiVGqb7dxX_zxRaSk6cMPeFNawXLkUpJS30TQkKgqKefaUtDD1gES95FvbwtJX7gPMMl6SOMwZIAscUA/s320/IMG_5964.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Chestnut-bellied Chlorophonia</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipZGpSHph8OE8b1cGBjGVVaPENExKN1YuKEhDP-y3ZJzaC5ddPkLgi-g6NvizKS_ZMbxUMk_8Onh1OQ9WBWDd6mQrPis_NKZS7bBgf-c20Tc2C6hYATwgv15qvMgBecYG-UKU-ISPdDjtk77WhAxg-QIJfCuCUNZXuXcr7A2kbiQxwFIWYK76EXPAtMg/s2033/IMG_5876.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2033" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipZGpSHph8OE8b1cGBjGVVaPENExKN1YuKEhDP-y3ZJzaC5ddPkLgi-g6NvizKS_ZMbxUMk_8Onh1OQ9WBWDd6mQrPis_NKZS7bBgf-c20Tc2C6hYATwgv15qvMgBecYG-UKU-ISPdDjtk77WhAxg-QIJfCuCUNZXuXcr7A2kbiQxwFIWYK76EXPAtMg/s320/IMG_5876.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden-ringed Tanager</td></tr></tbody></table>Exploring sections of the forested road on foot netted us Tatama Tapaculo, Glistening-green Tanager, Fulvous-dotted Treerunner, Crested Ant-Tanager, Gold-ringed Tanager, Parker’s Antbird (heard-only), Sooty-headed Wren, Black Solitaire, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager, Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Rufous-rumped Antwren, Streaknecked Flycatcher, Spotted Barbtail, Ochre-breasted Antpitta, Chestnut-bellied Chlorophonia, and Black-and-gold Tanager to name a few.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2qFMRmdGUpU8a-7-z4ZExf74CmyV4Ni6hNPUhw6yfFM4SSRrnTSx9iZb_D3q4AIw_fNwwU9HoUskiA9s2AdvxZOKmzTUROSt_UUCwbXMHW3UT_zEYJclgLTy9l6X35x03ars9adA_APHMJaxsfezfdJOWJmprw_nyeKO9avHIpcPcoWq5BAdqh3NPA/s503/Capto_Capture%202022-07-30_01-30-16_PM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="419" data-original-width="503" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2qFMRmdGUpU8a-7-z4ZExf74CmyV4Ni6hNPUhw6yfFM4SSRrnTSx9iZb_D3q4AIw_fNwwU9HoUskiA9s2AdvxZOKmzTUROSt_UUCwbXMHW3UT_zEYJclgLTy9l6X35x03ars9adA_APHMJaxsfezfdJOWJmprw_nyeKO9avHIpcPcoWq5BAdqh3NPA/s320/Capto_Capture%202022-07-30_01-30-16_PM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Rufous-gaped Hillstar Photo: Nick Athanas</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh68cvxvg3r7fk9XnXPZjUfitMSuRS0fzYgghBUn7gdhyb3t814jY6cbzP1Av4J9_FlzLyY97KwFVC6gxnN9cIVRvqsHH8Qalh6YUUkW2v_WkJanI4E7m3AZVGc3-mIWoAfITG0U2iOyeKUF1_MhxjKLQtPW6qgrZUmha487B8qxBnbkfW5DtiPGbDacQ/s2388/IMG_5854.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2388" data-original-width="1868" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh68cvxvg3r7fk9XnXPZjUfitMSuRS0fzYgghBUn7gdhyb3t814jY6cbzP1Av4J9_FlzLyY97KwFVC6gxnN9cIVRvqsHH8Qalh6YUUkW2v_WkJanI4E7m3AZVGc3-mIWoAfITG0U2iOyeKUF1_MhxjKLQtPW6qgrZUmha487B8qxBnbkfW5DtiPGbDacQ/s320/IMG_5854.jpg" width="250" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAEVXvb_dh35JlyLK26WvB5kIDXRH7hJBGjNsPHEbKv44LMc2OQtKG8FVGoWAkav9ZgR__rD4Qth3y9rtTS2s5cQJBkjgnTr5FakWu3eFULEK5dyCDfjjXUOIkkSiLERZre6hKau-KfC5UWzseb1A7jCaAHTDaUHzT_CEDCgJcKKvkV40mSXxCxDiEkg/s2130/IMG_5776.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2083" data-original-width="2130" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAEVXvb_dh35JlyLK26WvB5kIDXRH7hJBGjNsPHEbKv44LMc2OQtKG8FVGoWAkav9ZgR__rD4Qth3y9rtTS2s5cQJBkjgnTr5FakWu3eFULEK5dyCDfjjXUOIkkSiLERZre6hKau-KfC5UWzseb1A7jCaAHTDaUHzT_CEDCgJcKKvkV40mSXxCxDiEkg/s320/IMG_5776.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Velvet-purple Coronet</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmmNpADQTI16qQA6oTelAmoCFWwRbNUJl8DaMGkSZhezd0rKAkow4x_7E3VSFKFVCOLeWuyiJKFauZ20NGKnDr9HfpfTblv1plvM2Br1gOb5wI6vGq_9-CwbbPHyCMZI759RVnkLmD85yRchfshgYKnLWaXFUzct2tIIBKYrWdsAONgPL2gHLwqW9LOA/s2003/IMG_6004.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1343" data-original-width="2003" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmmNpADQTI16qQA6oTelAmoCFWwRbNUJl8DaMGkSZhezd0rKAkow4x_7E3VSFKFVCOLeWuyiJKFauZ20NGKnDr9HfpfTblv1plvM2Br1gOb5wI6vGq_9-CwbbPHyCMZI759RVnkLmD85yRchfshgYKnLWaXFUzct2tIIBKYrWdsAONgPL2gHLwqW9LOA/s320/IMG_6004.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ornate Flycatcher</td></tr></tbody></table>In spite of Carol’s impaired right hand, she soldiered on very well. It helped that the driver we mainly rode with, “Billie”, was most attentive, assisting Carol in and out of the vehicle whenever we stopped. Our last morning at the lodge with just a few hours left for birding, we were still missing two obvious target birds: Multicolored Tanager and Crested Ant-Tanager. No worries. Yessina knew precisely where to go and with luck on our side, the threatening rain held off long enough to add both birds. Walking back in the rain we also managed to add Club-winged Manakin, Uniform Treehunter, White-winged Tanager and Lemon-browed Flycatcher. A nice end to our stay at Montezuma Ecolodge.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEjwQXy8KS-S89K1A7SDl6CzEEargvbtNyHc468vkVtEZz8Lt8W-DZOeQ5PKLUTHa7Fy7EqPeHSWw4E95wEGZVMO-tbFY65wG8_q6enzDOH0FMbpj6CP5tUE30t3buq3-0FdI5w69h5dcqrEZu2EXi4Vihp-AqTdDBNjyZMcUdb8dWLJ4Pi0bt1JEjPA/s4032/IMG_5894.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEjwQXy8KS-S89K1A7SDl6CzEEargvbtNyHc468vkVtEZz8Lt8W-DZOeQ5PKLUTHa7Fy7EqPeHSWw4E95wEGZVMO-tbFY65wG8_q6enzDOH0FMbpj6CP5tUE30t3buq3-0FdI5w69h5dcqrEZu2EXi4Vihp-AqTdDBNjyZMcUdb8dWLJ4Pi0bt1JEjPA/s320/IMG_5894.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLgsVfTt_d5TgdatIX765Jm9Wxw54zZ7DAJ6kRdPG17dDPFLHKB2g3ObhhWJO6b4Vkl8islrViUEeEPcL21Vc2VQyJuQseK3IdBdHH_QD4qDvoQozlQav45aU8W7Yt4_gnue1cf55sSmwO_uiQhfcskvAy_LSoK4SfsUviReWIT9J5ZBehExoTaS62A/s4032/IMG_6015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLgsVfTt_d5TgdatIX765Jm9Wxw54zZ7DAJ6kRdPG17dDPFLHKB2g3ObhhWJO6b4Vkl8islrViUEeEPcL21Vc2VQyJuQseK3IdBdHH_QD4qDvoQozlQav45aU8W7Yt4_gnue1cf55sSmwO_uiQhfcskvAy_LSoK4SfsUviReWIT9J5ZBehExoTaS62A/s320/IMG_6015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitD0tp9oC_fm7d-YCs4RWN0QLCt-jKo-bfJRKpLqTst2aYHWVsvquoh4Hv86jFtpIf3_B0z_JHxU08JKSzpe9bslG-j8bkXpG1oua_RiELqIkXhF1hDawGd7bj_IZ_edkc2Iqgz6vNhhR6FS-XLrBxKY8esOX3-5BjXONH8_ghIndHnh1lXeUK0BPWvw/s4032/IMG_5971.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitD0tp9oC_fm7d-YCs4RWN0QLCt-jKo-bfJRKpLqTst2aYHWVsvquoh4Hv86jFtpIf3_B0z_JHxU08JKSzpe9bslG-j8bkXpG1oua_RiELqIkXhF1hDawGd7bj_IZ_edkc2Iqgz6vNhhR6FS-XLrBxKY8esOX3-5BjXONH8_ghIndHnh1lXeUK0BPWvw/s320/IMG_5971.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3CWyYO0OD_rHFxs6XPNwfulORTS-juM241H015vwM-TnudRqu_pqaBEmr5FMHuImzfapc558CGnp0nJO5vefCgN35KGWJCA3nNAyfnDGS_0VZF2A50xTDuY9PSq-CLFjpTxWUngXPh0TX0CQvoP4TfxKEwB45tJb5WnrCWG4_Adymadi2I_ewLEciw/s4032/IMG_7823%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3CWyYO0OD_rHFxs6XPNwfulORTS-juM241H015vwM-TnudRqu_pqaBEmr5FMHuImzfapc558CGnp0nJO5vefCgN35KGWJCA3nNAyfnDGS_0VZF2A50xTDuY9PSq-CLFjpTxWUngXPh0TX0CQvoP4TfxKEwB45tJb5WnrCWG4_Adymadi2I_ewLEciw/s320/IMG_7823%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our main driver at Monteverde - Billie</td></tr></tbody></table>We bid our farewells to the staff, loaded into the 4WDs and were driven to a roadside stop on the outskirts of Pueblo Rico where we transferred to our van. From there we drove to the Pereira Airport. Arriving at the airport we bid farewell to our incredible driver Hermes then checked in for our on-time hop to Bogotá.<br />In Bogotá we transferred to our hotel where two things would occur. First, our required Covid test prior to reentering the United States and our farewell meal. The former proved to be more challenging. Rather than all of us going to a local clinic, a clinician came to the hotel and tested everyone while they were in their rooms. The downside was this proved to be far more time consuming.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25UI5gZyFbzIze78IyPk5Uls2qQREFJxKB7oInO93q7I2_Z3W1K3AlzPjjP8ZsgPPwc7O3tN8JDJPoO0nTmgaOQvBajFdX0CQylecXHnnWe9SEVd5rovhQ_sGb2tBO0Zm0jbVbHJhEfYzZMrp-FecNYUJEt4BffBcMDjWwvBEtwQlvBHqHvb-cvTlcA/s4032/IMG_7831%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25UI5gZyFbzIze78IyPk5Uls2qQREFJxKB7oInO93q7I2_Z3W1K3AlzPjjP8ZsgPPwc7O3tN8JDJPoO0nTmgaOQvBajFdX0CQylecXHnnWe9SEVd5rovhQ_sGb2tBO0Zm0jbVbHJhEfYzZMrp-FecNYUJEt4BffBcMDjWwvBEtwQlvBHqHvb-cvTlcA/s320/IMG_7831%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiDRq0jeNX5BOZssWPOvkaeR8GPht6EzhXrhpd8aX6TzIHIfeuarQ7EjuS_AJxztU4i1AG6fd-__wyVBJQ06o29z4F2y7kFY3goRs1I__ZiPyVCutkttmPazLDEBz-ZCTm0OIyMT3W-EZR1Z6cVDGDNHlrxlRXfed1TMtJ4LHCczMJgJYd3GQgOqo1UQ/s4032/IMG_7832%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiDRq0jeNX5BOZssWPOvkaeR8GPht6EzhXrhpd8aX6TzIHIfeuarQ7EjuS_AJxztU4i1AG6fd-__wyVBJQ06o29z4F2y7kFY3goRs1I__ZiPyVCutkttmPazLDEBz-ZCTm0OIyMT3W-EZR1Z6cVDGDNHlrxlRXfed1TMtJ4LHCczMJgJYd3GQgOqo1UQ/s320/IMG_7832%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">last evening drinks were more fun that Covid test</td></tr></tbody></table>Getting results in a format that the airlines would accept was also challenging. Everyone thought their results would be emailed to them individually but it turned out that all results were emailed to Nick’s phone. He then had everyone double-check for accuracy. Unfortunately several reports had either a misspelled name or the wrong passport number which Nick had to correct and submit to the testing lab to fix and resend. All this took place during our final dinner. Typically a relaxing point in a trip but poor Nick didn’t get to enjoy his meal or enter into conversations with the group as he worked his phone.<br />Eventually, all was sorted and everyone had a negative Covid test on their phones to present to the airlines. All too soon we departed to the airport for flights home.<br />Most everyone’s flights were on time but in keeping with tradition, our flight out of Colombia was delayed (as it had been after our 2016 tour) resulting in a very overdue arrival back in AZ.<br />On the same delayed flight with the Upstills, we needed to coordinate alternate flight arrangements. Unfortunately, we didn’t connect with them before we made our changes and they their's. Connie and Russ changed their flight to standby status which at the time seemed risky for us. We opted for a later flight with confirmed seats.<br />It turned out that Connie and Russ made the earlier flight and would arrive back in Phoenix in the morning not long after our original arrival time. Our flight wouldn’t arrive back in Phoenix until late afternoon. Since we had all ridden to the airport in the Upstill's it was better they arrived back in AZ sooner.<br />Russ collected us at the airport and on the way back picked up a pizza. Simply too pooped to party after a very long travel day we wound up spending the night at Upstill's before driving back to Sierra Vista the next morning.<br />Of seven possible life hummingbirds we might encounter, we tallied four. Of the 396 birds tallied on the tour, 38 were heard-only while 45 were life birds including five Antpitta species. Owing to overlap with our 2016 Colombia tour and four trips to Ecuador, it accounted for a lower life bird count. But we added 21 endemics. Our total country list for Colombia stands at 665 species.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Next up? Brazil in October.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Odds and ends trip photos:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGjLexacGY2_Ur59tP2_ObQW2Y4u4ycn3VGNwR2yKcomCEAo_8X6EOjKTtumv41BsKpn07-4HBDixp32SvEwK1mdQqfSBZ_d3GwEhBE46_7mxeY6PQuGC7vwMlavwj6qlGgKlQeckKcFfrawTNAWqs9iWENDGCjxDoL6PU0eCsnajVTODY5VslTm5eQ/s4032/IMG_7741%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGjLexacGY2_Ur59tP2_ObQW2Y4u4ycn3VGNwR2yKcomCEAo_8X6EOjKTtumv41BsKpn07-4HBDixp32SvEwK1mdQqfSBZ_d3GwEhBE46_7mxeY6PQuGC7vwMlavwj6qlGgKlQeckKcFfrawTNAWqs9iWENDGCjxDoL6PU0eCsnajVTODY5VslTm5eQ/s320/IMG_7741%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjit0-w7VIM6gMruX8gsfFvRbPN6PNy_iUDX5jY0_YlocLwuSKbVn8szyGV9n3wXjZIHDhXsNbuKUSeKXbPOG7o8y9zMikdCndNhGoQyoiBRWvj9Ak4PlmraPlFm5Ffjcvtrlzx6z9XQ5fE_XDr8wr0CI5deJmfWWklTLO3jTmjeBkKmJs2tkVXT8X39A/s4032/IMG_7816%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjit0-w7VIM6gMruX8gsfFvRbPN6PNy_iUDX5jY0_YlocLwuSKbVn8szyGV9n3wXjZIHDhXsNbuKUSeKXbPOG7o8y9zMikdCndNhGoQyoiBRWvj9Ak4PlmraPlFm5Ffjcvtrlzx6z9XQ5fE_XDr8wr0CI5deJmfWWklTLO3jTmjeBkKmJs2tkVXT8X39A/s320/IMG_7816%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7ShtJmtE_kNsVd2I5zASfyvZxbJjLkk-5Bj4zn16Zni8qtCeHB57WD6R_cslnM-D83GdBnMdD5btWbELE1g1JUyBfF5Wo1iKIrsPo6C4fellsgeZfDmil08KtMSoTDVPnw_wUG4BzwlIQ52VjfCoZ8yiCxPQRH_m5zX2VW2H4-vPdIq3rtdjZBUoMQ/s4032/IMG_6014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7ShtJmtE_kNsVd2I5zASfyvZxbJjLkk-5Bj4zn16Zni8qtCeHB57WD6R_cslnM-D83GdBnMdD5btWbELE1g1JUyBfF5Wo1iKIrsPo6C4fellsgeZfDmil08KtMSoTDVPnw_wUG4BzwlIQ52VjfCoZ8yiCxPQRH_m5zX2VW2H4-vPdIq3rtdjZBUoMQ/s320/IMG_6014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvk8k3rte1hGxX8VS2yK4OQh21IZzNRlKaZ84VRLkJqSsE2J3Oy5yV6ST4FCtBaPjB5ANG7RpRUCDQgTa1PsZWJiLNje9AVjczMFA4CqxGnJ2blj1D_gQngHFQctKN39yclGqZb1eoXvbxWsowNwhN0tpH7U1Mai2281zwDl76oW3ZnFMVZVGx3vB6Aw/s2090/IMG_6008.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2090" data-original-width="1954" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvk8k3rte1hGxX8VS2yK4OQh21IZzNRlKaZ84VRLkJqSsE2J3Oy5yV6ST4FCtBaPjB5ANG7RpRUCDQgTa1PsZWJiLNje9AVjczMFA4CqxGnJ2blj1D_gQngHFQctKN39yclGqZb1eoXvbxWsowNwhN0tpH7U1Mai2281zwDl76oW3ZnFMVZVGx3vB6Aw/s320/IMG_6008.jpg" width="299" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsusMN9q5XOmhTVusrwT1Jciz86ncTZyY13X6OP5dxcAsR9A79nqiHILUerdu8XSYMnHlaScvX8G8RjjrcGH4UDfD47dV5VURmxcpqTSrbu4KOh8VSm9OAv4aXQOjZ_Ed7NTcVZQ934_Ui2aV3jg9RknbgSz_i-EnEYMuTCAQSs1C8tKwfTxRJRIIriw/s7686/IMG_5023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3942" data-original-width="7686" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsusMN9q5XOmhTVusrwT1Jciz86ncTZyY13X6OP5dxcAsR9A79nqiHILUerdu8XSYMnHlaScvX8G8RjjrcGH4UDfD47dV5VURmxcpqTSrbu4KOh8VSm9OAv4aXQOjZ_Ed7NTcVZQ934_Ui2aV3jg9RknbgSz_i-EnEYMuTCAQSs1C8tKwfTxRJRIIriw/s320/IMG_5023.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">rain, rain, rain with a few lulls</td></tr></tbody></table>Another morning and another day trip: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RioBlancoReservaNatural" target="_blank">Rio Blanco Reserve</a>, a protected watershed. Definitely one of the best birding spots in the area owing to that in recent years, difficult to see antpittas are being coaxed into the open.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4M1wIdd4fiJqZwc0-cQ-_wPISdOKbJfvfw9LtvXZR1x92pZ6QVJIw-yZ8dN44K_jP9Jpcmml-5Z1v5Ea5BKP2C7ewEnVhrtQycyS5PPAFQzgtcW86WboY0D2chLSMmNZ7MJN_xdVP9jQ1UEBwqhK_Tkdy2Gyk3aqc17BSfQnrIyB1NeDiS1YSKqMLTg/s4017/IMG_5007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2368" data-original-width="4017" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4M1wIdd4fiJqZwc0-cQ-_wPISdOKbJfvfw9LtvXZR1x92pZ6QVJIw-yZ8dN44K_jP9Jpcmml-5Z1v5Ea5BKP2C7ewEnVhrtQycyS5PPAFQzgtcW86WboY0D2chLSMmNZ7MJN_xdVP9jQ1UEBwqhK_Tkdy2Gyk3aqc17BSfQnrIyB1NeDiS1YSKqMLTg/s320/IMG_5007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2N-Q8nkY4K17Guee4iIeeU3tMtaUxUgGAYg-e2shF5nbecxYb3f0z_Wj1d33RCsKfKRAQrykwB1o-jckqLNZ9OJeGFhawGMAicuCSQhAHGlgQ9InWEx4MvTljcwB3IZ5ECa4ZibWiNuzznH3m4tpuV8_PVtGonDUZlmq-z1omo3aGKZQgK541MI_lQ/s4032/IMG_7644%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2N-Q8nkY4K17Guee4iIeeU3tMtaUxUgGAYg-e2shF5nbecxYb3f0z_Wj1d33RCsKfKRAQrykwB1o-jckqLNZ9OJeGFhawGMAicuCSQhAHGlgQ9InWEx4MvTljcwB3IZ5ECa4ZibWiNuzznH3m4tpuV8_PVtGonDUZlmq-z1omo3aGKZQgK541MI_lQ/s320/IMG_7644%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjo638hMmpvk-SRaxYQdA8U89dKu0GQDLerQTKXAIzZiPcUo4LNQ8MSfxI8PGYQhzo5kt5EhQVdiWQQ6n9GDpv5GfYwsprllFBRYVTTQyKEQHUfi5BaWOpyHq6OVj7WfL4Qp-U6foK6EZVRxdhjjSmL__gHO_nWQwkUJMOqsHrLyZQiDrfc4JmnpEvg/s3558/IMG_5020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="3558" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjo638hMmpvk-SRaxYQdA8U89dKu0GQDLerQTKXAIzZiPcUo4LNQ8MSfxI8PGYQhzo5kt5EhQVdiWQQ6n9GDpv5GfYwsprllFBRYVTTQyKEQHUfi5BaWOpyHq6OVj7WfL4Qp-U6foK6EZVRxdhjjSmL__gHO_nWQwkUJMOqsHrLyZQiDrfc4JmnpEvg/s320/IMG_5020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Unfortunately, on again off again rains plus fog hampered our efforts. Rain and optics are not a good combination, however, we still managed to slog through and pickup some good birds.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJKYf7c32wQSyWov3M1FEq3-tcwdgJB277BBcSq6nWtD2wcCyK8AoYf5bhcliN_sL1-vS5tg6KkXQyUde9vbmUJ5eFXAH55uOTQNKlA_g9B0RzBvXU2arFMo3PoY3o0BNtV8VtqDLzZh0BzmZIEYAQCujEBlJAQElLH3VlmWXuc5Vy-HOMX0o6CD7ihQ/s3137/IMG_5017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3137" data-original-width="2256" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJKYf7c32wQSyWov3M1FEq3-tcwdgJB277BBcSq6nWtD2wcCyK8AoYf5bhcliN_sL1-vS5tg6KkXQyUde9vbmUJ5eFXAH55uOTQNKlA_g9B0RzBvXU2arFMo3PoY3o0BNtV8VtqDLzZh0BzmZIEYAQCujEBlJAQElLH3VlmWXuc5Vy-HOMX0o6CD7ihQ/s320/IMG_5017.jpg" width="230" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut-crowned Antpitta</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjD9F9i3K1ASRm_VjNMsgW8jx1fGDYmhQMha0Jibt1mT8Yp_LaoOss3iOPO2ChxTRZggQEJvDkN0g4btUViRpIm2ColDFMGKOjfr8bq5QbKbx3hU-PfBIU6LIp3-LX-YdmJQpBMVhW1LHGrQX9vtBQJBzl5ffxO0VyBq7-4lujy1pkGTya29rd7G7pvg/s1872/IMG_5047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1872" data-original-width="1562" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjD9F9i3K1ASRm_VjNMsgW8jx1fGDYmhQMha0Jibt1mT8Yp_LaoOss3iOPO2ChxTRZggQEJvDkN0g4btUViRpIm2ColDFMGKOjfr8bq5QbKbx3hU-PfBIU6LIp3-LX-YdmJQpBMVhW1LHGrQX9vtBQJBzl5ffxO0VyBq7-4lujy1pkGTya29rd7G7pvg/s320/IMG_5047.jpg" width="267" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Violet-crowned Sylph</td></tr></tbody></table>One antpitta was quite cooperative: Chestnut-crowned. An adult repeatedly appeared to snatch up a beak full of worms then disappear back into the jungle, no doubt to feed an out of sight youngster or two.<br />Other antpittas were no longer cooperative due to a stakeout area having been damaged by a mud slide. Of the remaining antpittas we might have had a shot at seeing, Bicolored was a heard only and we had to settle on fleeting glimpses of Slate-crowned and Brown-backed. Again, the rains were probably a factor.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHjubZh_ALOwJv8BsQTWTWqlkuneQzFD3BBJCuGnHc2UfBtBPYHcqX8-GziXrzjUTsQYPhDVaScMZA-2Pd7vjZuUH2_nesKg4LHtEoKt-SX7EaT46vWFKHR7FcpKo-Q6uvhzJ68aiWsb1UXsUOkPFriUtARRdjc5p3lPvEU07tEZPeMDfPzudOERENg/s4032/IMG_7650%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHjubZh_ALOwJv8BsQTWTWqlkuneQzFD3BBJCuGnHc2UfBtBPYHcqX8-GziXrzjUTsQYPhDVaScMZA-2Pd7vjZuUH2_nesKg4LHtEoKt-SX7EaT46vWFKHR7FcpKo-Q6uvhzJ68aiWsb1UXsUOkPFriUtARRdjc5p3lPvEU07tEZPeMDfPzudOERENg/s320/IMG_7650%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our local guide Manuel on right</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAdlAGVofgTFrjmusG3y5kQQs1yLlAXrJctcevVdSvYQpHeTT0dNbLcPVyNHyRFYk41RnANinW1PBWrl8W3r5fXkD_jYMZNXJxjZEGhXSmMYzZNUVJNNz8IUYmoJIqEepWUkugrjPu0UrR4SdiHzGkPm_pXSb_qlUzWFCoMU6QXSsYYh-rH5MFTl2J9Q/s4032/IMG_7645%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAdlAGVofgTFrjmusG3y5kQQs1yLlAXrJctcevVdSvYQpHeTT0dNbLcPVyNHyRFYk41RnANinW1PBWrl8W3r5fXkD_jYMZNXJxjZEGhXSmMYzZNUVJNNz8IUYmoJIqEepWUkugrjPu0UrR4SdiHzGkPm_pXSb_qlUzWFCoMU6QXSsYYh-rH5MFTl2J9Q/s320/IMG_7645%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">rain didn't dampen our spirits - Bridget and Tim </td></tr></tbody></table>Feeding flocks always present a mixed bag. Trying to ID so many birds in a compressed period of chaos can be frustrating. But we always consider the chaos of a feeding flock a plus since the birds come to us rather than us having to track them down. In short order we added Capped Conebill, Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager, Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager, Black-capped Hemispingus, Pearled Treerunner, Streaked Tuftedcheek, and Yellow-vented Woodpecker.<br />Three tapaculo species (by now you should realize how hard it is to see them even under the best of conditions) were heard-only: Ash-colored, Blackish and Spillman’s. However, stunning looks at a Plushcap and several hummingbird species balanced out our efforts.<br />When the rain picked up again it made for an opportune time to break for lunch.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7_pDnxmc2eawYpN-sPPaaGZKXlsM-ePnOqA5HNsBsJRRzgAYSNEsn5QWej-ex_E0XcZaQ7g3cTz8Actf8mJvjcazg-_rBsgEKhRo-riRSJ3gmSzt6YGPr9AzoEMRkP_pz0mGTbWlSYKZTLIEZfk64G95FQ5FSaCZjzmlzV52CdeZkFbncYqKjnobig/s4032/IMG_5019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7_pDnxmc2eawYpN-sPPaaGZKXlsM-ePnOqA5HNsBsJRRzgAYSNEsn5QWej-ex_E0XcZaQ7g3cTz8Actf8mJvjcazg-_rBsgEKhRo-riRSJ3gmSzt6YGPr9AzoEMRkP_pz0mGTbWlSYKZTLIEZfk64G95FQ5FSaCZjzmlzV52CdeZkFbncYqKjnobig/s320/IMG_5019.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">rain or shine you keep birding</td></tr></tbody></table>With another lull in the rain, we reentered a forested area adding Barred Fruiteater, Black-eared and Oleaginous Hemispingus, Mountain Wren, and Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant before heading back to the hotel for our evening meal and our daily checklist tally.<br />Day 6 of our tour we loaded our luggage and ourselves into our van and headed up into the mountains to what turned out to be a fantastic reserve: <a href="https://www.haciendaelbosque.com.co/en/home/" target="_blank">Hacienda El Bosque</a>, an active dairy and beef cattle ranch.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLOp9D-MlJlvCr16l4AfEC17qPDbTrs6F7EppveeQ43D_GRoUUVkzepMUW4wQ92hmW7xu_bsWnG66HoWmxAayMisaaYj1WI4CfprK0SG7Zs-2xcR2Sv4LD7lzRyxMrZxMFCb4SlcAY7_ZhKp6X29_inS8icBQw46EO2IBj-B_eT7ctoa7QI0eakOwuog/s2820/IMG_5075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1648" data-original-width="2820" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLOp9D-MlJlvCr16l4AfEC17qPDbTrs6F7EppveeQ43D_GRoUUVkzepMUW4wQ92hmW7xu_bsWnG66HoWmxAayMisaaYj1WI4CfprK0SG7Zs-2xcR2Sv4LD7lzRyxMrZxMFCb4SlcAY7_ZhKp6X29_inS8icBQw46EO2IBj-B_eT7ctoa7QI0eakOwuog/s320/IMG_5075.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_VTEpYxhws73j8n2aTIPgleZn8y4FzguaxyXgfdoHxvyRCSEZPVN_e7kIl3rUVjOFyX3NkbH9Yj1-SnVL7O7RuSYF7nwQIm8b5vnm6XU5kDXsUNQKGV1Ouo0loPEe1n63yRb5DD1uYYQ7coTM37GbXieqCipBv2qvUMvY_4ACgUvbzaDPjCLPnyi6eQ/s4032/IMG_5076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_VTEpYxhws73j8n2aTIPgleZn8y4FzguaxyXgfdoHxvyRCSEZPVN_e7kIl3rUVjOFyX3NkbH9Yj1-SnVL7O7RuSYF7nwQIm8b5vnm6XU5kDXsUNQKGV1Ouo0loPEe1n63yRb5DD1uYYQ7coTM37GbXieqCipBv2qvUMvY_4ACgUvbzaDPjCLPnyi6eQ/s320/IMG_5076.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bosco interior</td></tr></tbody></table>Hermes turned off the highway onto a nondescript narrow track that wound through several out buildings and cattle pens. Driving further up through agricultural fields we stopped at the <a href="https://www.haciendaelbosque.com.co/restaurante-bosco/" target="_blank">Bosco Restaurant</a> where we met our guide, Juan. Juan wasn’t just a guide. Juan has been involved in his father’s business from an early age and now at age 24, he is the principle driving force behind continuing his father’s desire to protect and preserve the environment through not only sustainable farming but setting aside hundreds of hectares for wildlife.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-yeUUPGG_78n7S44XtJftzRs1p9MJvYvRnSE2JzScUZepTrD8OJYXWrCfei5DAMoCYPX2rL5-igwJtixig49uPa3vSrLs6yHHmaUBLQx_oy9OMe8lN8LYiNMnc9iL9yhyAPmJw8b0fxOKcShitKFzkDmJn94_QHHtb_lk7-0XdGY6P9mjYxnjLRPk8g/s4032/IMG_5077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-yeUUPGG_78n7S44XtJftzRs1p9MJvYvRnSE2JzScUZepTrD8OJYXWrCfei5DAMoCYPX2rL5-igwJtixig49uPa3vSrLs6yHHmaUBLQx_oy9OMe8lN8LYiNMnc9iL9yhyAPmJw8b0fxOKcShitKFzkDmJn94_QHHtb_lk7-0XdGY6P9mjYxnjLRPk8g/s320/IMG_5077.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-BmGC-4hlLbU5a0EsatRTrM_jxcET3CyzA04vtSgV2sOqtW529DA6y68XcXBGS-X6aZfNlDAPWrw6BbJdYjr99ulO9WI99hzWJCG0XDAXQYo4VnXDsF3E54CqzbF6fHUeskW3AuPHyteyJb10lC_0eQxGUjAqHoVjP6QI95-48Yic0g4mf1_WyKgCdg/s4032/IMG_7676%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-BmGC-4hlLbU5a0EsatRTrM_jxcET3CyzA04vtSgV2sOqtW529DA6y68XcXBGS-X6aZfNlDAPWrw6BbJdYjr99ulO9WI99hzWJCG0XDAXQYo4VnXDsF3E54CqzbF6fHUeskW3AuPHyteyJb10lC_0eQxGUjAqHoVjP6QI95-48Yic0g4mf1_WyKgCdg/s320/IMG_7676%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">alas they only had one hat in stock to sell</td></tr></tbody></table>The restaurant addition was only four months old and just getting started. Small but very comfortable, we were served a light breakfast comprised of locally produced food plus our first experience of “mixta”: Half coffee and half hot chocolate. On a chilly day a most welcomed beverage.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJHJKsR9dmFxK62gZIqUi-eKBqp4UvsFuU4R_oEPBZ_wSdxsf2ijQ1K-uIAEBIjb-LU1tftBQrQpbSE8vkS4OX94wBQtmge80UaqbRwFO2R-Ry4Tt3K_NDz5F7RcSmrhPgvfdFzE94BeCdgCWtzIwD_B0Nhiok4IN_MUYW8empRXBxaeBKBNgtCi3jqQ/s4032/IMG_7664%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJHJKsR9dmFxK62gZIqUi-eKBqp4UvsFuU4R_oEPBZ_wSdxsf2ijQ1K-uIAEBIjb-LU1tftBQrQpbSE8vkS4OX94wBQtmge80UaqbRwFO2R-Ry4Tt3K_NDz5F7RcSmrhPgvfdFzE94BeCdgCWtzIwD_B0Nhiok4IN_MUYW8empRXBxaeBKBNgtCi3jqQ/s320/IMG_7664%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">waiting for the show to begin</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjROZ4GTHOSZmL8euAOdr-ydQmPEe0NIlOWKvF0gO9DzJ6j49E4MLca4YacedKZlx3kNDE5UPATe4JpSs1QJYmpQev5P5-9NhjDPyGaCYOH7l1SmKaZC8F4fZvFbtscb8lNMN79m-aRLUZ3IWUusAn0FAN38QW0SrztZEjb8ooX2TYFqOhC9N2HihNzfA/s4032/IMG_7672%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjROZ4GTHOSZmL8euAOdr-ydQmPEe0NIlOWKvF0gO9DzJ6j49E4MLca4YacedKZlx3kNDE5UPATe4JpSs1QJYmpQev5P5-9NhjDPyGaCYOH7l1SmKaZC8F4fZvFbtscb8lNMN79m-aRLUZ3IWUusAn0FAN38QW0SrztZEjb8ooX2TYFqOhC9N2HihNzfA/s320/IMG_7672%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lots of action downslope</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQjSxLXSrv-kJODD4gVbFrtU7XESe8dhMmYf8F84sPRS0qMgbcHoianY2ENuCM8PZ34zweJH1d2fa4_JKcg4Tqnuw2lt2Z8wyAwEttawvpkOpS1xzvO4kS7JKmEHi9amEyg0RzeYrC-oRCnNWmmLSl7voevRDslmqb8_U_x2RzzyE_14a95bDzqFSNg/s2388/IMG_5260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2388" data-original-width="2076" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQjSxLXSrv-kJODD4gVbFrtU7XESe8dhMmYf8F84sPRS0qMgbcHoianY2ENuCM8PZ34zweJH1d2fa4_JKcg4Tqnuw2lt2Z8wyAwEttawvpkOpS1xzvO4kS7JKmEHi9amEyg0RzeYrC-oRCnNWmmLSl7voevRDslmqb8_U_x2RzzyE_14a95bDzqFSNg/s320/IMG_5260.jpg" width="278" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">female Barred Fruiteater</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBWklQJwKLrFQao2g6hWwBMtoj3TDuhP7GO_Ja4WVKIwhOOE2jhjVQprrSFE1zgmVhOEFhSuKzmiDzLboYJrbkLplKQQY-y99cJdjc9XbDfQDezhh7zT98NRHmXOcxSjblirqZWyt0gLiuzd_r30XayGpgBVx_RxqDpgDfDx8woHldI_g5WXf3yIuv1g/s1586/BarredFruiteaterMale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1586" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBWklQJwKLrFQao2g6hWwBMtoj3TDuhP7GO_Ja4WVKIwhOOE2jhjVQprrSFE1zgmVhOEFhSuKzmiDzLboYJrbkLplKQQY-y99cJdjc9XbDfQDezhh7zT98NRHmXOcxSjblirqZWyt0gLiuzd_r30XayGpgBVx_RxqDpgDfDx8woHldI_g5WXf3yIuv1g/s320/BarredFruiteaterMale.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">male Barred Fruiteater</td></tr></tbody></table>Our first attempt for birds lead down a steep slope into a wooded area, hopefully see Equatorial Antpitta, yet another split from the Rufous Antpitta complex. It took a few moments but eventually one appeared to feed on, yes, more mealworms. We had hoped to also see a Tawny Antpitta but it wound up as a heard only.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8viy_RJNJytH40KmlDZ6X6CjuOkdgwdxWbvxrSYK5GcT8vg39Xno2m8_vpi4qxIu3ybbTsUaovbSnwZX6_7-ivW0IPa0iJ0V0qFWwqWdCHOqyTvovT6JomItziAOSYUz2RP-QH5tC7ZW9ABFGFx34VGfJj8Iguwg726z1wTYJMw1AuuEeSbvADsAekw/s2969/IMG_5089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2969" data-original-width="2142" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8viy_RJNJytH40KmlDZ6X6CjuOkdgwdxWbvxrSYK5GcT8vg39Xno2m8_vpi4qxIu3ybbTsUaovbSnwZX6_7-ivW0IPa0iJ0V0qFWwqWdCHOqyTvovT6JomItziAOSYUz2RP-QH5tC7ZW9ABFGFx34VGfJj8Iguwg726z1wTYJMw1AuuEeSbvADsAekw/s320/IMG_5089.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous Antpitta</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfXaZjlILDy2JGdvcRkPsT7FaAryEs8D8TbcQ6Q07dSOqVSMaoouuoVBR1O8VYzRCWey3O1S1tzKve7fPJmBRTgWPXMeEGdSjpfodVU3DRKd-rVV3GQG5fUX1tpWg-l_oPAUSmFiP-2ElBwwDzuQGU_127yyyJG5cpyeIxABY2GdNU8DiKwYXyggwz_Q/s2791/IMG_5099.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2791" data-original-width="2300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfXaZjlILDy2JGdvcRkPsT7FaAryEs8D8TbcQ6Q07dSOqVSMaoouuoVBR1O8VYzRCWey3O1S1tzKve7fPJmBRTgWPXMeEGdSjpfodVU3DRKd-rVV3GQG5fUX1tpWg-l_oPAUSmFiP-2ElBwwDzuQGU_127yyyJG5cpyeIxABY2GdNU8DiKwYXyggwz_Q/s320/IMG_5099.jpg" width="264" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sword-billed Hummingbird</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQb_jmFhPwpj7FIByXhjiB8-JjTJ-VGYIxjr0CyyGBb5vAPnxgEew4E2GElUz6wukvXPTi_zfMfFHUisNhKArGOMUmXoFzP7JPfw8zssZhg6jJaCj3-nuvrhkftro-Rv2apDt6ru9vNG53Wv2SpiJtfPKOQoVx9jzAJhimdgE9bEfAV6zRCWfxqbjAQ/s2249/IMG_5244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1942" data-original-width="2249" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQb_jmFhPwpj7FIByXhjiB8-JjTJ-VGYIxjr0CyyGBb5vAPnxgEew4E2GElUz6wukvXPTi_zfMfFHUisNhKArGOMUmXoFzP7JPfw8zssZhg6jJaCj3-nuvrhkftro-Rv2apDt6ru9vNG53Wv2SpiJtfPKOQoVx9jzAJhimdgE9bEfAV6zRCWfxqbjAQ/s320/IMG_5244.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourmaline Sunangel</td></tr></tbody></table>Trekking back up the slope we loaded into our van for a short ride to another location where several feeding stations attracted a variety of hummingbirds. Our first really good looks at Sword-billed Hummingbirds and cooperative Purple-backed Thornbills. More hummers included Tyrian Metaltail, Tourmaline Sunangel, Black-thighed Puffleg, Buff-winged Starfrontlet and Mountain Velvetbreast. Here we also had excellent looks at one more antpitta species: Crescent-faced Antpitta. Arguably one of the cutest we’ve ever seen. Then a few steps away we were treated to fantastic looks at male and female Barred Fruiteaters.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy7W6s1doOhbxF7aUcHo8tNb1cbn4RgTIh4t8-RL9yom61sPUZiSWFrt6TXq3RJki5Ql8nSm5RhiwZmgPbBPHLd3zRdyPvw96Q1MhCk07WBCk7sZjowSSSgbszWZwwqUhKlVgCWRJeqZV1jMI5L3BWss_Z2AeFSaYQwym17UosdZs68KHMDAJLmL3L4g/s2150/IMG_5155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2150" data-original-width="1832" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy7W6s1doOhbxF7aUcHo8tNb1cbn4RgTIh4t8-RL9yom61sPUZiSWFrt6TXq3RJki5Ql8nSm5RhiwZmgPbBPHLd3zRdyPvw96Q1MhCk07WBCk7sZjowSSSgbszWZwwqUhKlVgCWRJeqZV1jMI5L3BWss_Z2AeFSaYQwym17UosdZs68KHMDAJLmL3L4g/s320/IMG_5155.jpg" width="273" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crescent-faced Antpitta</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMVVkaA7SICpGBJ6ziR_QCJv8XJUf-OjBGhb0ZdL3SvqM6BEauxIfSzxy3DQzXGnjTvcrfBl8yFehexTc2xlcd6Ud2uKmewohan6wb68XUVOc1WlSnbWeXTcYWwhyb9nTd0-APiYV-h6_nAXVmlhFvrShwbXcQWxsFFFp0onoQ7Cf74vIY4tCf1tkSQ/s3205/IMG_5338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2071" data-original-width="3205" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMVVkaA7SICpGBJ6ziR_QCJv8XJUf-OjBGhb0ZdL3SvqM6BEauxIfSzxy3DQzXGnjTvcrfBl8yFehexTc2xlcd6Ud2uKmewohan6wb68XUVOc1WlSnbWeXTcYWwhyb9nTd0-APiYV-h6_nAXVmlhFvrShwbXcQWxsFFFp0onoQ7Cf74vIY4tCf1tkSQ/s320/IMG_5338.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gray-breasted Mountain-Tanager</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpUusA3JN8uACIMfQrnYtA23A29OPQMxsBH23QQ3NdFWSB9n9hE1167Roc9WXfFfX8TLM0_aKbqnUVPNass61Uoi3sksb7G-pH_yMPV73XzWP3GQfWCna-o3zoKyvbdF9Z66h896XdQw_GSLOXqg6OycRmJWRuJfd_v6ggThFXLnzSwq7bi2qc74dyA/s2151/IMG_5352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2151" data-original-width="2091" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpUusA3JN8uACIMfQrnYtA23A29OPQMxsBH23QQ3NdFWSB9n9hE1167Roc9WXfFfX8TLM0_aKbqnUVPNass61Uoi3sksb7G-pH_yMPV73XzWP3GQfWCna-o3zoKyvbdF9Z66h896XdQw_GSLOXqg6OycRmJWRuJfd_v6ggThFXLnzSwq7bi2qc74dyA/s320/IMG_5352.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-hooded Mountain-Tanager</td></tr></tbody></table>One final short ride to the last feeding station where Gray-breasted Mountain-Tanagers were lured into view by of all things, the promise of grapes. Black-hooded Mountain-Tanagers, it seemed, were also fond of grapes.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZIiX5kjPz38fljFWnK4QWzyLHK-NU3wwHT7eict44t06yrxUQGufHb1pk9-DFdpmI1qoG4yFdk5wtU3bLnMq4rPQ5On5ojPq6sLzFg3Ky_BBMUCZ4k1lTPl07ApFXoLtHq-pSYWmNrj8HkrhGK7HdTN8h_XewR80pLawGJc0HvAAv7quisH5mI030jw/s4032/IMG_5362.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZIiX5kjPz38fljFWnK4QWzyLHK-NU3wwHT7eict44t06yrxUQGufHb1pk9-DFdpmI1qoG4yFdk5wtU3bLnMq4rPQ5On5ojPq6sLzFg3Ky_BBMUCZ4k1lTPl07ApFXoLtHq-pSYWmNrj8HkrhGK7HdTN8h_XewR80pLawGJc0HvAAv7quisH5mI030jw/s320/IMG_5362.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a sculpted condor to taunt us</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0K4iL94TpEAUeYJ47ngNMiA58AFNWXbnSwnGMH3gcRQYX44x1F2GyGjwZqXnBAF6zY_qETtKwt2a2sf224Tm0cQzWcaBQVmXHQjb5Y8Ji3fdNWciDBB0ZhhrjpFQg76wfQq6oFn9snxgWxthi10etIBnrOIIvZ9aEtrbYYH6e5qsizLBT-G5DVg4pcw/s4032/IMG_5364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0K4iL94TpEAUeYJ47ngNMiA58AFNWXbnSwnGMH3gcRQYX44x1F2GyGjwZqXnBAF6zY_qETtKwt2a2sf224Tm0cQzWcaBQVmXHQjb5Y8Ji3fdNWciDBB0ZhhrjpFQg76wfQq6oFn9snxgWxthi10etIBnrOIIvZ9aEtrbYYH6e5qsizLBT-G5DVg4pcw/s320/IMG_5364.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">trekking back down to grab lunch and cocoa tea</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrEod8MrAoPsJYy9Co14TszlxdH5Cy_WSXxg_RTnzcrUoNG5Dc9BRiVDCpX1KkIWwfKtCeRRr7Iqy92cPGFErHhJla0yu-Yu2Ptu7k2PXxetyTn3xT95q_ZO8nZC50PcNz_wqjyxmd5RIxnhGCfvL6zTGAImI4PBWpzzsB70aKCSxysi97dEC-V3D4Mg/s4032/IMG_7689%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrEod8MrAoPsJYy9Co14TszlxdH5Cy_WSXxg_RTnzcrUoNG5Dc9BRiVDCpX1KkIWwfKtCeRRr7Iqy92cPGFErHhJla0yu-Yu2Ptu7k2PXxetyTn3xT95q_ZO8nZC50PcNz_wqjyxmd5RIxnhGCfvL6zTGAImI4PBWpzzsB70aKCSxysi97dEC-V3D4Mg/s320/IMG_7689%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of those unexpectedly good lunch stops</td></tr></tbody></table>Departing Hacienda el Bosque (with a souvenir mug in hand) we made a few stops that included a surprise sighting of an Andean Condor when we happened upon a small roadside cafe that offered excellent food (more great soups!). The condor soared behind a steep hill the top of which was apparently a "work in progress" Andean Condor viewing area. Nick inquired as to the fee to climb the hill - half the group made the climb to view a vast valley. Alas, no more condor sightings but the small lake across the road gave up views of Andean Teal and Andean Duck. Plain-colored Seedeater, Stout-billed Cincloides, Many-striped Canastero, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Plain-colored Seedeater and Grass Wren were also seen during the restaurant stop.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Ik8g3IHesZYWugcqgw5GSxu9TqcwzDw5f1eh3ID_hYYo-1k7A5j3jLABuOEISwbqozKqOjGZCart0cQS3vZfZ5R7qFhrQjZcbLKSDnieblwtQW6iueuOm0TIRCfH1q04BUK_dWzlZge3iFXng9n_WO326KOr34BruJoBS7EcRReNcbMaJpsyCHVeug/s4032/IMG_5366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Ik8g3IHesZYWugcqgw5GSxu9TqcwzDw5f1eh3ID_hYYo-1k7A5j3jLABuOEISwbqozKqOjGZCart0cQS3vZfZ5R7qFhrQjZcbLKSDnieblwtQW6iueuOm0TIRCfH1q04BUK_dWzlZge3iFXng9n_WO326KOr34BruJoBS7EcRReNcbMaJpsyCHVeug/s320/IMG_5366.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">flowers of the paramo</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho0r9uBvM0LJVxkrnJkaa6wrafwtgHBRRWy6SviO6JMQoGlg8bKvh6Ssq57tfk-ykGCP_WuPy_SvNdbVWWcLV7riTXC6_n1EZn02RWvHIHh81-luSiCSMs5FdFgFq6ZcuvOoacCpISKrvDD6sTNkjH1wkpdkwBxQ1EloVy4hSB5a2ycbOH4TfAllym7g/s4032/IMG_5401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho0r9uBvM0LJVxkrnJkaa6wrafwtgHBRRWy6SviO6JMQoGlg8bKvh6Ssq57tfk-ykGCP_WuPy_SvNdbVWWcLV7riTXC6_n1EZn02RWvHIHh81-luSiCSMs5FdFgFq6ZcuvOoacCpISKrvDD6sTNkjH1wkpdkwBxQ1EloVy4hSB5a2ycbOH4TfAllym7g/s320/IMG_5401.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">group shrouded by fog</td></tr></tbody></table>Following lunch we made another birding stop that lead us down a dirt road to a spot where a Rufous-fronted Parakeet had been seen. Initially, the walk started with relatively clear skies but soon a swirling mist began to envelope the landscape. Finally locating one in the scope, dense fog suddenly obliterated any and all views. Only a few people got to see it before losing it in the fog.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbgEHT5gmEzrBTyTUmzvFcUeMKsLsbb3UnAUwKQAFCMrAw11duCYM8U4n7FGDjvOgBrjDXcFclfD7vP6Vk2Zo1Bf3nEztfH4pGH3wsVYZTf0hMh8ofcHkoho1lMS8CXhnVImt8WKtbsVBSq8p0gwDb1WncMQZqPkL9PFkdNo6aS8t_hVrdvT6djE_8Gg/s4032/IMG_5469.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbgEHT5gmEzrBTyTUmzvFcUeMKsLsbb3UnAUwKQAFCMrAw11duCYM8U4n7FGDjvOgBrjDXcFclfD7vP6Vk2Zo1Bf3nEztfH4pGH3wsVYZTf0hMh8ofcHkoho1lMS8CXhnVImt8WKtbsVBSq8p0gwDb1WncMQZqPkL9PFkdNo6aS8t_hVrdvT6djE_8Gg/s320/IMG_5469.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj05IN4R7cvbXBKeM-c2Ufx8gR71b86rkIQJNO-iPC4L95gWW5oFPbXMogB3a1Mb2YCHR-91V-_lREbATHaflEBDqa4CmQAWwaO64jZjEAokANcW3zgRN4DMwaLdrK_CIVqwLlSNoTaMw8ORgQpIMZPFzXZTxlC1U_KmhH-QHfcrV6OWXhi1YwLLHwgQ/s4032/IMG_7715%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj05IN4R7cvbXBKeM-c2Ufx8gR71b86rkIQJNO-iPC4L95gWW5oFPbXMogB3a1Mb2YCHR-91V-_lREbATHaflEBDqa4CmQAWwaO64jZjEAokANcW3zgRN4DMwaLdrK_CIVqwLlSNoTaMw8ORgQpIMZPFzXZTxlC1U_KmhH-QHfcrV6OWXhi1YwLLHwgQ/s320/IMG_7715%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">relaxing</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_PMkg5V6wWMTQNIhT-aBYLJFgdhQ9kjpo_TQHrQe_XWgoSaHnMs9T9mmbb_2yaGtn82ZYiACT5HajIw_Xb1jYBLQMb8em1gcbI8EH6cjBgtIg8vZG7CFapxwYqKYCuBNG1zxyUkZ9bnshKLbJ2OehM-vXvO0MJM2LeQ229XebpgecWuIWh_Vlvzo6g/s4032/IMG_5403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_PMkg5V6wWMTQNIhT-aBYLJFgdhQ9kjpo_TQHrQe_XWgoSaHnMs9T9mmbb_2yaGtn82ZYiACT5HajIw_Xb1jYBLQMb8em1gcbI8EH6cjBgtIg8vZG7CFapxwYqKYCuBNG1zxyUkZ9bnshKLbJ2OehM-vXvO0MJM2LeQ229XebpgecWuIWh_Vlvzo6g/s320/IMG_5403.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">room with a view</td></tr></tbody></table>Back to the van we continued onward to our next overnight stop, <a href="https://hoteltermalesdelruiz.com" target="_blank">Termales de Ruiz</a>, a remote mountain lodge (reached via a surprisingly rough road) famous for its hot springs. An astonishingly beautiful lodge nestled in a volcanic caldera. We had been warned to bring swim suits and glad we did. The springs were very soothing. H</span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;">aving to divide our time soaking in the hot springs or birding, we </span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">wished </span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;">we’d had more time to enjoy them both. Now, if the feeders were just closer to the springs...</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjokAi5vfUk9GY0ezNBKzwumS1bzWKFPIzx550aVfZsRFSbXcIpzi86ZJja1U5yALpvgJoyODF_iJIU7DpH7kAbA9W6seKyRdKxOHMfzBdH7h6_qsAug1F3aXOKyGx4UmmgUCTf2wVmdPAQ_fWn0MYGVp-EnugMjCuL7WVxsR6MFh7xMHEcjKnJn22YZQ/s2729/IMG_5414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2729" data-original-width="1743" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjokAi5vfUk9GY0ezNBKzwumS1bzWKFPIzx550aVfZsRFSbXcIpzi86ZJja1U5yALpvgJoyODF_iJIU7DpH7kAbA9W6seKyRdKxOHMfzBdH7h6_qsAug1F3aXOKyGx4UmmgUCTf2wVmdPAQ_fWn0MYGVp-EnugMjCuL7WVxsR6MFh7xMHEcjKnJn22YZQ/s320/IMG_5414.jpg" width="204" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shining Sunbeam</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1PdGLK4UkG24UcKKnsu14oG7LaInc8nuuXWXXEIYTd_2IaykFEfs15q1zz9ztG87OsyBzDpL9JbSfxjpUod2e-FVPFl84ErOPXqG_IxzqUAe98yK4XM_3c4oSrulq8mSrDFvZKiWqF8zhGe_nm3vcMW0OM8VjxWKguBilBO-9nQX7c-gXxpWpabACTQ/s2864/IMG_5440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1850" data-original-width="2864" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1PdGLK4UkG24UcKKnsu14oG7LaInc8nuuXWXXEIYTd_2IaykFEfs15q1zz9ztG87OsyBzDpL9JbSfxjpUod2e-FVPFl84ErOPXqG_IxzqUAe98yK4XM_3c4oSrulq8mSrDFvZKiWqF8zhGe_nm3vcMW0OM8VjxWKguBilBO-9nQX7c-gXxpWpabACTQ/s320/IMG_5440.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glossy Flowerpeircer</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj40yaeGV1u86Z6XksWUoB5JFLW24bFTs64_VK8OsVWoTtWWPl2xdj-sSTPjTRsZYCkic1RsnhpX2KyLxorfN9B783-XCvqEVqL4_m1tUuqqHrdJ3RI1uG0tXDaGpXobbCvqz9JLP8Ro2Obr3L0agUDvGBOImnKwSbzMuu_MqdsDXjMMJ8s7-LosdcmyA/s2581/IMG_5508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2581" data-original-width="2515" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj40yaeGV1u86Z6XksWUoB5JFLW24bFTs64_VK8OsVWoTtWWPl2xdj-sSTPjTRsZYCkic1RsnhpX2KyLxorfN9B783-XCvqEVqL4_m1tUuqqHrdJ3RI1uG0tXDaGpXobbCvqz9JLP8Ro2Obr3L0agUDvGBOImnKwSbzMuu_MqdsDXjMMJ8s7-LosdcmyA/s320/IMG_5508.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Feeders at Termales del Ruiz, in spite of chilly overcast weather, were very active. Holding small button shaped feeders lured many hummingbirds in to be fed by hand: Great Sapphirewing, Viridian Metaltail, and Shining Sunbeam. A Glossy Flowerpiercer boldly landed on our hands begging for nectar from a small bottle. Other species around the feeders included Pale-naped Brushfinch, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Lacrimose Tanager, Paramo Seedeater, and Blue-black Conebill.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJK6LmnsbgEKnvWaOk8hbW5gSAaEjtlngEXJv1KWzxz4dMSWJ13AvjGu7CwyC9a3SXUxz4lo9-w4dkAetNrflGeeSBJIiSERbb1BLvGOOAQc2xZ9r3bS_kNQciPzD1Tt9g3o6VjMLWCXDrk3Ifpl-SMEhOqOypq9pZY5w8Iidczx9hcgDZerW4aPR0Ow/s2632/IMG_5488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1641" data-original-width="2632" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJK6LmnsbgEKnvWaOk8hbW5gSAaEjtlngEXJv1KWzxz4dMSWJ13AvjGu7CwyC9a3SXUxz4lo9-w4dkAetNrflGeeSBJIiSERbb1BLvGOOAQc2xZ9r3bS_kNQciPzD1Tt9g3o6VjMLWCXDrk3Ifpl-SMEhOqOypq9pZY5w8Iidczx9hcgDZerW4aPR0Ow/s320/IMG_5488.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lacrimose Tanager</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5FvhxNZu702KzshUZki1Ku5c4YXB8KvdxI5NG8j1BzH_9BciVSaV8XQ0Pe5jEZJKk9K1Kq9pfiyiOC0jjjC_e7447r-zGhU6qxJ2xWdqnZVuSnuF_QD2hZFQJdTzFAytP2i1yRZ-fNkUnzUTmQ9dAsfNb5HmqVr_v3MHYS8y--5IdzU5wRVf7dWrSg/s2330/IMG_7711%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2330" data-original-width="1756" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5FvhxNZu702KzshUZki1Ku5c4YXB8KvdxI5NG8j1BzH_9BciVSaV8XQ0Pe5jEZJKk9K1Kq9pfiyiOC0jjjC_e7447r-zGhU6qxJ2xWdqnZVuSnuF_QD2hZFQJdTzFAytP2i1yRZ-fNkUnzUTmQ9dAsfNb5HmqVr_v3MHYS8y--5IdzU5wRVf7dWrSg/s320/IMG_7711%204.jpeg" width="241" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Connie makes a friend</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh28CY0NegUowK7KFqy4jC_jeuMNNBOfHAmn-ofNJjrPTVR6VGVfs-PJ3zRIUxur9KiR5pEkdX4l1HMb6yB1ReqEND7lrg8JMZYxjS_vRmaGMU94GCbpz30tK9OKCc2k2WJ41yQS9i4RT-GQmma40oGSo4bMSKE_Ii74cHWnGtqsmMMakAQ90S-LT1lHA/s2652/IMG_5465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1458" data-original-width="2652" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh28CY0NegUowK7KFqy4jC_jeuMNNBOfHAmn-ofNJjrPTVR6VGVfs-PJ3zRIUxur9KiR5pEkdX4l1HMb6yB1ReqEND7lrg8JMZYxjS_vRmaGMU94GCbpz30tK9OKCc2k2WJ41yQS9i4RT-GQmma40oGSo4bMSKE_Ii74cHWnGtqsmMMakAQ90S-LT1lHA/s320/IMG_5465.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Viridian Metaltail</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib6hGYZq7i7V18JlDNVaP9ilx0Rr_LJEB_1QzHYF3aSPY_ZRwjReDODXNweEVRQjnnRpwnLXf0VJYRkhgvzEfTuIcT4tHuk2I337Mo7SFD1S47bcIkdroTmVyHHzgYWoNDIMLi1eVQ17VGhD5XjRgVQAJN_3WV6GGPmMQ3KFs8uSZ5d1YX8UhixkwxUQ/s4032/IMG_5534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib6hGYZq7i7V18JlDNVaP9ilx0Rr_LJEB_1QzHYF3aSPY_ZRwjReDODXNweEVRQjnnRpwnLXf0VJYRkhgvzEfTuIcT4tHuk2I337Mo7SFD1S47bcIkdroTmVyHHzgYWoNDIMLi1eVQ17VGhD5XjRgVQAJN_3WV6GGPmMQ3KFs8uSZ5d1YX8UhixkwxUQ/s320/IMG_5534.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">light breakfast - fruits were always fresh</td></tr></tbody></table>Staving off cold temps and chilly winds, we did another brief check of the feeders at in early morning before retreating indoors to a hearty breakfast. Leaving the hot springs behind we were off to <a href="https://www.parquesnacionales.gov.co/portal/en/ecotourism/andean-region/los-nevados-national-natural-park/" target="_blank">Los Nevados National Park</a> for our prime target bird of the day: Buffy Helmetcrest.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LLdbAtP0Fhb3oz2W4Ykg2lrOzShUeAxG2G7trocv_19b0j6cMAqdzL8A7x-I6LMv66jpwiQkQyZNiTrHhf5hRNXJvK6zq19gs5UUCeFSGyUOA-tTBFoCzDDMbbWWPgwfQ9D74XH_7ocyk9noyfZNbsF_62lz2GKYRuOQWxVPB2ykckuyt7n4lxByqw/s4032/IMG_5538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LLdbAtP0Fhb3oz2W4Ykg2lrOzShUeAxG2G7trocv_19b0j6cMAqdzL8A7x-I6LMv66jpwiQkQyZNiTrHhf5hRNXJvK6zq19gs5UUCeFSGyUOA-tTBFoCzDDMbbWWPgwfQ9D74XH_7ocyk9noyfZNbsF_62lz2GKYRuOQWxVPB2ykckuyt7n4lxByqw/s320/IMG_5538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7LGBkPt2c0BZ6yR4YH-YpSbHWVwkToRNzuhliMa1PgRs5_UePvSRK7x8lCQUACC1-dBMZLD0i-I7RMoid2PJGZtaHxJBHma19zK758ihfzpZwtJMR2v_IrpGu8yhgpRO-N7daKIYF5Adu5ZHDcdhXWTlQCDfMmKJ-8xV3LXvhPfWVAAL8FQpETKjHw/s3004/IMG_7720-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2357" data-original-width="3004" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7LGBkPt2c0BZ6yR4YH-YpSbHWVwkToRNzuhliMa1PgRs5_UePvSRK7x8lCQUACC1-dBMZLD0i-I7RMoid2PJGZtaHxJBHma19zK758ihfzpZwtJMR2v_IrpGu8yhgpRO-N7daKIYF5Adu5ZHDcdhXWTlQCDfMmKJ-8xV3LXvhPfWVAAL8FQpETKjHw/s320/IMG_7720-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">plumes of smoke from Nevado del Ruíz</td></tr></tbody></table>Climbing higher and higher, we rounded a bend in the road to find a clear unobstructed view of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nevado_del_Ruiz" target="_blank">Nevado del Ruíz</a> volcano producing plumes of smoke. According to the Geological Service’s most recent media briefing, Nevado del Ruíz’s “seismic activity continues to be intense, mainly related to the movement of fluids inside the volcanic conduits. This seismicity has been characterized by the occurrence of continuous volcanic tremors of low to moderate energy levels, tremor pulses, and very long-period earthquakes near the Arenas crater.”<br />Nevado del Ruíz last erupted on November 13, 1985, killing 25,000 people after lava melted the volcano’s ice caps and snow-covered summit unleashing a mud flow that buried the agricultural city of Armero, Tolima, under debris. The Armero tragedy remains as Colombia’s worst natural disaster.<br />Arriving at the park entrance early was paramount before the area became shrouded by clouds (nothing to do with the volcano). No sooner had we stopped when a helmetcrest was immediately seen. Fortunate for us because the bird isn’t always seen so quickly, if at all.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVUAIhJZNfLHbHY1SdVKFFOhPkecuXKOe7fIhLD_u0x3AEu39psF1MHFEffbXjuKs4nsS8VPuoBxmqQV5O2um-8xOxn5g8EKfdBefPHC0K69AO_AL7-Z4Ejs6WH_nCK_38Tyn31Pekf6PIz1R-mzhKkaBA0IN4jWHySwhAGGjSi65FgD8d2FlmqVf4rg/s1858/IMG_5539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1858" data-original-width="1443" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVUAIhJZNfLHbHY1SdVKFFOhPkecuXKOe7fIhLD_u0x3AEu39psF1MHFEffbXjuKs4nsS8VPuoBxmqQV5O2um-8xOxn5g8EKfdBefPHC0K69AO_AL7-Z4Ejs6WH_nCK_38Tyn31Pekf6PIz1R-mzhKkaBA0IN4jWHySwhAGGjSi65FgD8d2FlmqVf4rg/s320/IMG_5539.jpg" width="249" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5BPWOl44bjvpp1Jd_ThJLe84tHwYNtd6j2NlxK67rG9KjeixCfpPc9O9sqG-6RvNGB5KtAZz-6-leAPdsV9wW6y7UG8Xg7S85JP7EEI7cO839HzkEltH-_A3m5bLxB8v3yl0GNd8Q5rUs7bMoepF2oE5mqgNnTQoLnD6dVzCFyhl--f_BkaPGT0yE8w/s1944/IMG_5542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="1632" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5BPWOl44bjvpp1Jd_ThJLe84tHwYNtd6j2NlxK67rG9KjeixCfpPc9O9sqG-6RvNGB5KtAZz-6-leAPdsV9wW6y7UG8Xg7S85JP7EEI7cO839HzkEltH-_A3m5bLxB8v3yl0GNd8Q5rUs7bMoepF2oE5mqgNnTQoLnD6dVzCFyhl--f_BkaPGT0yE8w/s320/IMG_5542.jpg" width="269" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buffy Helmetcrest</td></tr></tbody></table>Since this was our main target bird there was no need to enter the park. We had learned during our 2016 tour that anyone entering a national park is required to sit through a lengthy introduction (usually only in Spanish) extolling visitors to be mindful of protecting the park’s environment. A lecture we did not need.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkUm_ju9U1Nk-In9CmcV_I6g5TC5nSttIXwRVoBkkW78ZTLbyuoOKPpzscSarAcHu9bl9zU-ngVtHOlZ_lbCjOHqLgxNz8mSPkXR7ErohU6p9tnRvZKsxCc9kTNxfRYSOS_8f1iFrRs4yUPiqY7DQnR5xRXQMjh8AoqHmnQNtAGxDUVDozXRB_hMUOg/s4032/IMG_5550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkUm_ju9U1Nk-In9CmcV_I6g5TC5nSttIXwRVoBkkW78ZTLbyuoOKPpzscSarAcHu9bl9zU-ngVtHOlZ_lbCjOHqLgxNz8mSPkXR7ErohU6p9tnRvZKsxCc9kTNxfRYSOS_8f1iFrRs4yUPiqY7DQnR5xRXQMjh8AoqHmnQNtAGxDUVDozXRB_hMUOg/s320/IMG_5550.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgADny81aKXKHUBnk26-Nb7j0SHWrAoRAh_uvEwyrCcqWS1x8lMhabYjzhUmtpv-ElcaynXpKWmEKhwbcO2KlTG3x9kGfk_VplfV2_xEBI_tuI7wW9iq7U6I_rpp4jY1uzmsgifcv5Vcp6TA2GzkHhLFfVjN1K09LGvM9CgNuwSFcIJ1LLa275IXYnjg/s4032/IMG_5555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgADny81aKXKHUBnk26-Nb7j0SHWrAoRAh_uvEwyrCcqWS1x8lMhabYjzhUmtpv-ElcaynXpKWmEKhwbcO2KlTG3x9kGfk_VplfV2_xEBI_tuI7wW9iq7U6I_rpp4jY1uzmsgifcv5Vcp6TA2GzkHhLFfVjN1K09LGvM9CgNuwSFcIJ1LLa275IXYnjg/s320/IMG_5555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIz_7s3MWjgUCIdcjyDvlW1ZlvdfQ5wC311NQLYuDeyZQWgx9Gss09yYXFvUeYilmvphU9dRiXewGqp6vv7-DZGTlJ6JTyX5fJsHW_AOToDdEIamiH7Ei1w2QBbhCP7lnMIdfIhXjv3qYpp-RkYMc908tnMir1rxr1BR_2ECxgJCRlzYHfb3CmB70WuA/s4032/IMG_5556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIz_7s3MWjgUCIdcjyDvlW1ZlvdfQ5wC311NQLYuDeyZQWgx9Gss09yYXFvUeYilmvphU9dRiXewGqp6vv7-DZGTlJ6JTyX5fJsHW_AOToDdEIamiH7Ei1w2QBbhCP7lnMIdfIhXjv3qYpp-RkYMc908tnMir1rxr1BR_2ECxgJCRlzYHfb3CmB70WuA/s320/IMG_5556.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Instead, we began walking back down the road to find other birds including Brown-back Chat-Tyrant, Andean Tit-Spinetail and White-chinned Thistletail.<br />Re-boarding our van we spent the rest of the day continuing toward our next overnight stop in the town of Santa Clara. On our way we made a few birding stops including one at Malecón Cameguadua, a small park with large ponds to flesh out our bird list with waterfowl and wading bird species. Ringed and Green Kingfishers, Striated Heron, Cocoi Heron, Purple Gallinule, and Black-necked Stilt. Also Carib Grackle, Ruddy-breasted seedeater, Olivaceous and Streaked Saltators, and Thick-billed Seed-Finch.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyiesCS7kTnlUrIF4qoBEZ6U79iIj_yJnnk0LBZ0hcIZxufED1D3TJ-lOrNSrMMb1EdrCBNAK-uhmAuKXyOVBph8ibVB-geIdnuhi1AisXUFtm8XwLLWc6oqvfxLY_RBuZHNTyU2XMuhW4KBfAqiqsqFu0o701YAF5XrK33hLn3bRkXYXG8-ZUuv4D3A/s4011/IMG_7751%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2644" data-original-width="4011" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyiesCS7kTnlUrIF4qoBEZ6U79iIj_yJnnk0LBZ0hcIZxufED1D3TJ-lOrNSrMMb1EdrCBNAK-uhmAuKXyOVBph8ibVB-geIdnuhi1AisXUFtm8XwLLWc6oqvfxLY_RBuZHNTyU2XMuhW4KBfAqiqsqFu0o701YAF5XrK33hLn3bRkXYXG8-ZUuv4D3A/s320/IMG_7751%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santa Clara Hotel</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIcaGJM8hJRSuoqEEMl1WAQKOXhQqX2mjuoCxxW6QJmJTpVqoBrny1NsVKTEn8AjPWwqjLLcMmFRE-CmpfCoQV0iV2aaaDI5eJKTaDRSG9wobm5q2fv2Rsrjqo95tXtXYy29GYGOJEwgZgJ0hQ8GQo__hJCvfx1tzZXuQzmYgRQcd88AzNwzYz6RiS4Q/s2829/IMG_5636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2829" data-original-width="2797" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIcaGJM8hJRSuoqEEMl1WAQKOXhQqX2mjuoCxxW6QJmJTpVqoBrny1NsVKTEn8AjPWwqjLLcMmFRE-CmpfCoQV0iV2aaaDI5eJKTaDRSG9wobm5q2fv2Rsrjqo95tXtXYy29GYGOJEwgZgJ0hQ8GQo__hJCvfx1tzZXuQzmYgRQcd88AzNwzYz6RiS4Q/s320/IMG_5636.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carol, no - we cannot keep him</td></tr></tbody></table>Our accommodations in Santa Clara de Cabal? The <a href="https://www.santaclarahacienda.com" target="_blank">Hotel Santa Clara</a>, a colorful and charming establishment. Having arrived late in the afternoon and informed that our next day was going to be a very early start, we quickly ate dinner, finished our daily checklist and turned in for the night.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5a19cSt3G-PAqOdMUheweDoAUY2cIYXJy1WJXI-y4i7RtQRt6Btxk2SXYIvKylH9XPiVCsV4VpL_3zY3zDyTnCzuhr3kuNzlFo_n64-ImKguyAeaXJb4gAwPjM64kz3POSoZWtccGapPv98Fx2D8FFbn7sNkvVeRUbPyMWeSM22jj97z47hCBRl209g/s4032/IMG_5580.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5a19cSt3G-PAqOdMUheweDoAUY2cIYXJy1WJXI-y4i7RtQRt6Btxk2SXYIvKylH9XPiVCsV4VpL_3zY3zDyTnCzuhr3kuNzlFo_n64-ImKguyAeaXJb4gAwPjM64kz3POSoZWtccGapPv98Fx2D8FFbn7sNkvVeRUbPyMWeSM22jj97z47hCBRl209g/s320/IMG_5580.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">waiting</td></tr></tbody></table>Up well before daylight we boarded 4WD vehicles for another long bumpy ride to higher elevation forest patches where the critically endangered Indigo-winged (Fuertes’s) Parrots are found. The parrot was initially described in 1911 but then disappeared from historic records for over 90 years. Finally, in 2002, biologists, funded by an American Birding Conservation grant, discovered about a dozen individuals in a fragmented and unprotected high-Andean cloud forest.<br />This exciting rediscovery led to the purchase of property in 2007 to create the Fuertes's Parrot Reserve, which protects key nesting areas for the species. The formation of a Threatened Parrot Corridor followed in 2009. This series of reserves covers roughly 19,000 acres of key Colombian habitat and protects approximately 70 percent of the Indigo-winged Parrot's population. Currently there are approximately 250 individuals left in the world.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5FETowvKvLTrKclgGdlbPIzhoiF1VMMtoDxJk_KcAOcxBEcBGrhH163FAW6vppQPOtmz6BaxGeo5U7m0n2AozUj8fZy4whW-4AQLzq58kRuhLTJ-E0dyqFuwrtZxjzpiHDmmOPTbuEEWDDqTPgpp54t3JHF6AkogYD5SOsBB5srN90IMLXkQdwTnDw/s4032/IMG_5611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5FETowvKvLTrKclgGdlbPIzhoiF1VMMtoDxJk_KcAOcxBEcBGrhH163FAW6vppQPOtmz6BaxGeo5U7m0n2AozUj8fZy4whW-4AQLzq58kRuhLTJ-E0dyqFuwrtZxjzpiHDmmOPTbuEEWDDqTPgpp54t3JHF6AkogYD5SOsBB5srN90IMLXkQdwTnDw/s320/IMG_5611.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-bGcANJxJGT7Xq2d1y2rLGKGU_MfF_eTi0A4zeKzf98hnC_0npyh27M9Hxu0MHNZDehy_3vfjNW_eBN3aHgQiVaSQIqttfJcWqMpEbDFsQSlO0Y7-Hiskqz-YybTta2rC3kqDswXwm8jLsTHyT4OTFVLkplFiEMwb7pCuztXTWRdQcfR02cf9Smd8Nw/s596/Capto_Capture-2022-07-29_03-21-37_PM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="440" data-original-width="596" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-bGcANJxJGT7Xq2d1y2rLGKGU_MfF_eTi0A4zeKzf98hnC_0npyh27M9Hxu0MHNZDehy_3vfjNW_eBN3aHgQiVaSQIqttfJcWqMpEbDFsQSlO0Y7-Hiskqz-YybTta2rC3kqDswXwm8jLsTHyT4OTFVLkplFiEMwb7pCuztXTWRdQcfR02cf9Smd8Nw/s320/Capto_Capture-2022-07-29_03-21-37_PM.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indigo-winged Parrot</td></tr></tbody></table>The parrot's species name, fuertesi, honors one of the greatest American bird artists, <a href="https://artsandculture.google.com/story/AwUBV6nTdY1vIw" target="_blank">Louis Agassiz Fuertes</a>. Educated at Cornell University and later becoming an ornithology professor there, Fuertes was a prolific and well-respected artist and ornithologist who worked during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And in our humble opinion, Audubon’s works pale in comparison to Fuertes’s.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHX_ABhA9uOSdokJppklnjjptDdvPeDMOz1bMPLKBFkj2k0X8OucHW6LRv4q2BztdpKBKftm_bXpKF9Ggj3GqmIKxJIKHWmvLR0NGFJ3GzMZp8jJ_-PUy0uCSgx51t4B7cmU4tzvoo1xFKBBTTnOF9wADGFIowRjd7EAupza-T9SCgA3S9Uf3oo-NOzQ/s3107/IMG_5586.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2968" data-original-width="3107" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHX_ABhA9uOSdokJppklnjjptDdvPeDMOz1bMPLKBFkj2k0X8OucHW6LRv4q2BztdpKBKftm_bXpKF9Ggj3GqmIKxJIKHWmvLR0NGFJ3GzMZp8jJ_-PUy0uCSgx51t4B7cmU4tzvoo1xFKBBTTnOF9wADGFIowRjd7EAupza-T9SCgA3S9Uf3oo-NOzQ/s320/IMG_5586.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIlgKpfWgoMsI1ZhT3tde5Z9mTu4_xz36gamLV55lsnP3cHF3Vk-pIBMszsSmNB-bFN_Pp2P8HRJjPIaZ01nS-hackrFZ0OlgrCDzArNV1NOUcwRLVL5qeuCuqrqY03CI6MlWxu6SBRTXcMpc17tmeDqLdb1v0kmXb778f66neBt3GR7jlt6gX50spQ/s4032/IMG_5594.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIlgKpfWgoMsI1ZhT3tde5Z9mTu4_xz36gamLV55lsnP3cHF3Vk-pIBMszsSmNB-bFN_Pp2P8HRJjPIaZ01nS-hackrFZ0OlgrCDzArNV1NOUcwRLVL5qeuCuqrqY03CI6MlWxu6SBRTXcMpc17tmeDqLdb1v0kmXb778f66neBt3GR7jlt6gX50spQ/s320/IMG_5594.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwMk21Orna9pP7AzBBRcjBYPHAx6bD6la3kUS-t2XBZhwIWDDdpgOM_ICoS5niBCSyyszU4yoLYHrifJL-wrqTNr3lEkq9yCULy2vGWnlr0Eq1kiVhxbOp4KBEv7VDTWHWoo5a9sTJCGuaNHW-Gp1qQ_o-Ldw9V8L3ftza-PkayGBFDJAQMMDmv4CLNA/s4032/IMG_5597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwMk21Orna9pP7AzBBRcjBYPHAx6bD6la3kUS-t2XBZhwIWDDdpgOM_ICoS5niBCSyyszU4yoLYHrifJL-wrqTNr3lEkq9yCULy2vGWnlr0Eq1kiVhxbOp4KBEv7VDTWHWoo5a9sTJCGuaNHW-Gp1qQ_o-Ldw9V8L3ftza-PkayGBFDJAQMMDmv4CLNA/s320/IMG_5597.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">obligatory 'we were there' photos</td></tr></tbody></table><br />We arrived at the spot known for best views as other parrot species flew far overhead (Barred Parakeet, Scaly-naped Parrot, and Golden-plumed Parrot). We consumed our boxed breakfasts and hot beverages as the sun slowly rose higher in the eastern sky. Bundled from the cold we huddled along the road’s edge listening intently. Suddenly, Arnulfo our guide, heard a pair approach. He then spotted them in a distant tree giving us all scope looks. Pleased with seeing the birds, we then anxiously tracked the pair’s flight to another location where they were joined by a few more parrots before disappearing around a small rise. Quickly retracing their flight path along the road, we suddenly came upon them feeding in mistletoe directly above our heads! Far better looks than we could ever have imagined. “Giddy” is just one adjective used to describe the group’s reaction. I would add humbled as well. Reading subsequent trip reports by other groups, not many include having seen these critically endangered parrots as well as we had.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDh9qXBHhFAvm5lfCRXhUP05Zzh5M9Ssn-KgLWqTDGi0EnxZbAcvgysIrlSSi17oapgDBc0TAz5nGvwhySqPx3CvlOoPKXZ1lVaGUue1zG-_OA51m4DPj5y8N5VvunhSpu4PSL5Ag20Z88ZH6Q1QeP4QFWu1FK-UzEYvUEbWBQdZybj2GpR_fgYPzqgA/s2078/IMG_5617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="2078" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDh9qXBHhFAvm5lfCRXhUP05Zzh5M9Ssn-KgLWqTDGi0EnxZbAcvgysIrlSSi17oapgDBc0TAz5nGvwhySqPx3CvlOoPKXZ1lVaGUue1zG-_OA51m4DPj5y8N5VvunhSpu4PSL5Ag20Z88ZH6Q1QeP4QFWu1FK-UzEYvUEbWBQdZybj2GpR_fgYPzqgA/s320/IMG_5617.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andean Lapwing</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9I6umGh4UKn83xEphIRi7NpZazs0B8vcL9KidB_Z_cgXwx0jd6HGE0MgjG2ikepffBSE1NP80SNFy1Px9F9FOyxbYI53yPZYlkpCYZntZ-uJaQVBR2qGWDzjhP_QbnaJqyTYG9pjD7yiXAKwiktvVgk5aWQCpnJ0v5vF9R7JrGiQCUJyClpoRvxQuA/s4032/IMG_5625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9I6umGh4UKn83xEphIRi7NpZazs0B8vcL9KidB_Z_cgXwx0jd6HGE0MgjG2ikepffBSE1NP80SNFy1Px9F9FOyxbYI53yPZYlkpCYZntZ-uJaQVBR2qGWDzjhP_QbnaJqyTYG9pjD7yiXAKwiktvVgk5aWQCpnJ0v5vF9R7JrGiQCUJyClpoRvxQuA/s320/IMG_5625.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">driving back in daylight</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9grSoiO1OEAPZ9Tz5fVI_1b6w8KvxDYnIQm2tGgy2jyt80_glNOZOO3z2HxKzz3Zjuo5YquOz8krAhik0biG-i0keIZ9Hl5f731I0ds7oqqVF7Gn5GUoB9oRgtOwUOEQWG0bd4OBgkZnsX5oL3zjdmOVLTFgkG-t-hubRp_srH7FVXJ3PKWb-xf0BOg/s4032/IMG_5634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9grSoiO1OEAPZ9Tz5fVI_1b6w8KvxDYnIQm2tGgy2jyt80_glNOZOO3z2HxKzz3Zjuo5YquOz8krAhik0biG-i0keIZ9Hl5f731I0ds7oqqVF7Gn5GUoB9oRgtOwUOEQWG0bd4OBgkZnsX5oL3zjdmOVLTFgkG-t-hubRp_srH7FVXJ3PKWb-xf0BOg/s320/IMG_5634.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our driver, left and guide Arnulfo on right</td></tr></tbody></table>On our way back down the mountain road we picked up Slate-crowned Antpitta, White-banded Tyrannulet, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant and a pair of Andean Lapwing Returning to Hotel Santa Clara we had time for a more leisurely lunch while watching hotel feeder action that included several tanager species: Black-capped, Scrub, Bay-headed, Golden, Blue-gray, and Palm.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-JWYP4_zmPaMkZCYDbFpAh9tfSgM8Udy_nA7qeReskSGbgtRllgR2JFtEpGtV2Oet_PvZUnMGJL4QNHhSy4TerNrLLCzBS_yTjM8Ah3zgjXHVtuSLjqen-JRReAt7p8riMGRHyBl8m1ah7zvBdGtTIc9r38wtWh88uo9EmDwXD6nPRXtvEK2CNPaRMQ/s1570/IMG_5652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1570" data-original-width="1372" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-JWYP4_zmPaMkZCYDbFpAh9tfSgM8Udy_nA7qeReskSGbgtRllgR2JFtEpGtV2Oet_PvZUnMGJL4QNHhSy4TerNrLLCzBS_yTjM8Ah3zgjXHVtuSLjqen-JRReAt7p8riMGRHyBl8m1ah7zvBdGtTIc9r38wtWh88uo9EmDwXD6nPRXtvEK2CNPaRMQ/s320/IMG_5652.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saffron Finch</td></tr></tbody></table>After lunch we collected our luggage, boarded our van and headed to the Otún Quimbaya Reserve. Unfortunately the lodge inside the reserve had been closed since the pandemic so we stayed in the nearby town of La Florida at a recently purchased lodging in the process of being renovated, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Casahotelkumanday/?ref=page_internal" target="_blank">Casa Kumanday</a>. In spite of more on again, off again, rain we still fit in some afternoon birding along the Otún River adding White-capped Dipper, Torrent Tyrannulet and Torrent Duck.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkuQvEuQVsqLNZaX7g5QaXrM7FaeA8uDRUY27zucmCrq_eKvMgtWbNlrtfVh5bJicyC_LDCeMZTW0XoqJqPUc4Q4gW9I7W1sEZlpx3yR3u-mDP67V5XUU-JsvWgV9DqBy266wevo8gY33JYqFWeAXemG95a7VT87efeJCuOBrywhjEnuSyPXrtfueAg/s4032/IMG_1402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkuQvEuQVsqLNZaX7g5QaXrM7FaeA8uDRUY27zucmCrq_eKvMgtWbNlrtfVh5bJicyC_LDCeMZTW0XoqJqPUc4Q4gW9I7W1sEZlpx3yR3u-mDP67V5XUU-JsvWgV9DqBy266wevo8gY33JYqFWeAXemG95a7VT87efeJCuOBrywhjEnuSyPXrtfueAg/s320/IMG_1402.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">felt more like a safari ride</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWVEKDVrDu_RmDSDijOFK4NBlRMKeRBXD5UNAwhbDy0e44JZtWfAaxik32IdjMiEiIlA9RY1iB8PEWnqzjm2S6mSgxwe6AZo1VhjSVPZOQgrLR9zTwhb2j64xKWFmO9x07S2L7Iv3GT5YUpvNNnCOvbW6sQraG7MQ7oLO4B_Nd3o2Rr9MT8ObMqQxcw/s4032/IMG_5697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWVEKDVrDu_RmDSDijOFK4NBlRMKeRBXD5UNAwhbDy0e44JZtWfAaxik32IdjMiEiIlA9RY1iB8PEWnqzjm2S6mSgxwe6AZo1VhjSVPZOQgrLR9zTwhb2j64xKWFmO9x07S2L7Iv3GT5YUpvNNnCOvbW6sQraG7MQ7oLO4B_Nd3o2Rr9MT8ObMqQxcw/s320/IMG_5697.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />At daybreak the next morning we loaded into yet another set of 4WD vehicles. This time we headed into the <a href="https://www.parquesnacionales.gov.co/portal/en/ecotourism/andean-region/otun-quimbaya-fauna-and-flora-sanctuary/" target="_blank">Otún Quimbaya Sanctuary</a>. It became clear that one of vehicles was a bit more…rustic. A 1957 Jeep with a cargo area outfitted with a pair of opposing narrow bench seats (thankfully padded). The cargo area sported a metal frame used to hold up a canvas covering. The driver was in the process of removing the canvas covering but we requested that it remain in place since the sky threatened rain. As it turned out, a wise choice.<br />Given the close seating in the jeep and what would no doubt be a rougher ride than in the other three more modern SUV’s, the “guys”, Tim, John, Russ and Tom elected to be in the jeep. Nick was in the passenger seat up front. There were moments when temporarily removing the covering gave us a splendid view of the narrow forested road we traveled but rain, for the better part of the drive, necessitated the covering remain in place. Rain accumulated on the canvas roof causing it to sag, occasionally requiring someone to push upward to force water off. Unfortunately, the water spilled back into the back of the jeep. A shame since had the weather remained clear, the jeep cargo area, albeit the bumpy ride, would have made for a grand touring experience. But it was still memorable.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fCgzkX3Zh6EjmgktsYlXMR3iONeug-Vib6yizwHtSm7n9oXHUFpMoFYVOgobAY6nyDrla55Gn5COgngjGnqBQcsPlSxJQKklvzHS_wUiPAMbQcs0aYvD3A0hqSGN-B0cZVLlZWaaC4YwrRy0JwBiXT7QF_wwKkUvC-nr1__3Tr2DWXI8FRoC2wsbIQ/s2741/IMG_5703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2741" data-original-width="2257" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fCgzkX3Zh6EjmgktsYlXMR3iONeug-Vib6yizwHtSm7n9oXHUFpMoFYVOgobAY6nyDrla55Gn5COgngjGnqBQcsPlSxJQKklvzHS_wUiPAMbQcs0aYvD3A0hqSGN-B0cZVLlZWaaC4YwrRy0JwBiXT7QF_wwKkUvC-nr1__3Tr2DWXI8FRoC2wsbIQ/s320/IMG_5703.jpg" width="263" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-ruffed Fruitcrow</td></tr></tbody></table>Two main target endemics on the day: Cauca Guan and Red-ruffed Fruitcrow. Arriving at the spot where the Guan might more reliably be seen, our driver excitedly pointed to a Guan in a tree. Well, to be fair it was a guan - just not the one we wanted. It was a Sickle-winged Guan. However, a handful of fruitcrows were easily seen, calling to one another flying from perch to perch. They are indeed colorful.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uHypRP8YfDd6-w5lmmt3RMODJHgqrnn0xnLOc1zkLvgFiMQ2sHGj9l5v62nw6L5WOC6yOvq4nRAeRHPygmXUiA8GVvIEwtx25HETQmFHc0EGpqWN7YzN3oAtL1ovJv6p8yCIGuB2JYmBiAMqPSTU1xmDtRuEzIkCIcWLh8s8I2ToX84z6KEiAVjPyQ/s4032/IMG_5715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uHypRP8YfDd6-w5lmmt3RMODJHgqrnn0xnLOc1zkLvgFiMQ2sHGj9l5v62nw6L5WOC6yOvq4nRAeRHPygmXUiA8GVvIEwtx25HETQmFHc0EGpqWN7YzN3oAtL1ovJv6p8yCIGuB2JYmBiAMqPSTU1xmDtRuEzIkCIcWLh8s8I2ToX84z6KEiAVjPyQ/s320/IMG_5715.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">birding the narrow road with more rain...</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhNd16QYs-N73qAV989w1PjNDmxLM8dflE2UXhXQ30l0C4KHqtN3UDsckiauFex3dV2rpEtu3MAUup_QrE5oOw-tXbkRK0BiI5yLPKMrgueIOKzl5YBun-2XkdfS7e3dC0xKJZG7vJw7NkctBHMPFlCNNsoq7CWNCyeCl4uFz9TZtOnfgmBa4k3luoQ/s4032/IMG_7758%204.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhNd16QYs-N73qAV989w1PjNDmxLM8dflE2UXhXQ30l0C4KHqtN3UDsckiauFex3dV2rpEtu3MAUup_QrE5oOw-tXbkRK0BiI5yLPKMrgueIOKzl5YBun-2XkdfS7e3dC0xKJZG7vJw7NkctBHMPFlCNNsoq7CWNCyeCl4uFz9TZtOnfgmBa4k3luoQ/s320/IMG_7758%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...plus sharing the narrow road with vehicles</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeBulCPdduY6Xff3B-rqWz9yG23yEwgbHg3pYyxR-QnDDy4bn8-yEWYpHF-QG6crO4Nna7cobqaIlwe7EwO2QbdAImel_cfxbZEVHInTMmrBfN1eWVgdxJaSo8VHQGGADly0nG0smIFVRtDOxI1imOs9LgqdUjIekNs7wjVvchLcPJB5J-2uJlozsDlQ/s3672/IMG_5719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3672" data-original-width="2778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeBulCPdduY6Xff3B-rqWz9yG23yEwgbHg3pYyxR-QnDDy4bn8-yEWYpHF-QG6crO4Nna7cobqaIlwe7EwO2QbdAImel_cfxbZEVHInTMmrBfN1eWVgdxJaSo8VHQGGADly0nG0smIFVRtDOxI1imOs9LgqdUjIekNs7wjVvchLcPJB5J-2uJlozsDlQ/s320/IMG_5719.jpg" width="242" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">thankfully our rides were never far away</td></tr></tbody></table>Further exploring the area a few in the group had all too brief glimpses of a Hooded Antpitta. A heard-only for most of the group: a vocal but secretive Chestnut-breasted Wren which only a few in the group managed to see. By that time the rains had become relentless so we agreed to throw in the towel. “Never say never” Nick and our jeep driver kept peering out and around jeep’s fogged windshield, scanning for our one missing endemic. Fortunately, a couple of soaking wet Cauca Guan were spotted. Everyone piled out of the SUVs for quick soggy scope views. Huzzah!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTvtsVu30zi7VuwiyXnohVOuv75E4B_dsNwvO1faJvszy5OqEg9gKIdKer67fbgqoHdodvTJ-eqRmj91CanJvdI5u16XbEwr0kYKSB7k2I4G6gV4Rd9CoJsdqwRUGvp6aGie5E25W4P2yU-BF0X5BxaBUb8idrh074BArXvVmevFWhACYIrr7-JTOpBA/s4032/IMG_5720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTvtsVu30zi7VuwiyXnohVOuv75E4B_dsNwvO1faJvszy5OqEg9gKIdKer67fbgqoHdodvTJ-eqRmj91CanJvdI5u16XbEwr0kYKSB7k2I4G6gV4Rd9CoJsdqwRUGvp6aGie5E25W4P2yU-BF0X5BxaBUb8idrh074BArXvVmevFWhACYIrr7-JTOpBA/s320/IMG_5720.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">back at Casa Kumanday</td></tr></tbody></table>By the time we got back to our hotel, the rain had abated. Of course it had. Knowing we needed to be moving on we dried off as best we could, gathered our luggage, sipped some hot coffee, checked out, and off we went.</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-15912187316380283752022-07-27T14:10:00.006-07:002022-07-30T15:34:30.728-07:00Colombia 2022 Part 1<div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"> Our return to Colombia in 2022 constituted our second trip to the country. Our first tour was 2016 (<a href=" http://tomandcarolsykes.blogspot.com/2017/01/central-and-northern-colombia-2016.html" target="_blank">2016 blog entry</a>).</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0UmvgCOacK91AQfvLQzISjSpPQKQlXsKkEEz4wKQ3IjMu3U9L6TgWx7re5n7mQhI3cZHZCT1deQeVMsZJ-65DklJF8r7t0ol0qU5g8KNB2RzOxR1aEIYhxvHEen-HamR3MO-MGoSul1l-atXx4DBYHumjgnAyaeWO49lBulNLY6kgbTF1q5mANtPz1Q/s904/Capto_Capture%202021-10-31_08-28-28_AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="784" data-original-width="904" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0UmvgCOacK91AQfvLQzISjSpPQKQlXsKkEEz4wKQ3IjMu3U9L6TgWx7re5n7mQhI3cZHZCT1deQeVMsZJ-65DklJF8r7t0ol0qU5g8KNB2RzOxR1aEIYhxvHEen-HamR3MO-MGoSul1l-atXx4DBYHumjgnAyaeWO49lBulNLY6kgbTF1q5mANtPz1Q/s320/Capto_Capture%202021-10-31_08-28-28_AM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our 2022 itinerary route</td></tr></tbody></table>One wrinkle that almost sidetracked Carol's participation. On December 20, 2021, an uninsured motorist ran a red light causing a multiple car accident which totaled our 2018 Honda CR-V and sent Carol to the hospital with a broken arm (her dominant hand). Surgery on December 28 put her on the road to recovery. Fortunately by the time the tour was to start and still dealing with a damaged wing, she was able to soldier on, able to use binoculars but needing assistance walking on some of the rougher trails.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64wW7YHOHbZWOTqGH7wX2-WMe7-MqePtTwK6vtpp864i5D5-TzZQ7nSLFzD0WNb33QMyrDVv4J6l4Ni7T7CksTmDFAfgLuRoAHuqwbgY9yB1sDb8Q89eQCyrUWta12fhBuPcc3_wGEcbY_gW4UPI8KhNJDvK8rjlE2E-Ij1OkwuqkEJZV19_8rEDhfQ/s1440/269729740_2931847270458905_5970714680579397265_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1440" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64wW7YHOHbZWOTqGH7wX2-WMe7-MqePtTwK6vtpp864i5D5-TzZQ7nSLFzD0WNb33QMyrDVv4J6l4Ni7T7CksTmDFAfgLuRoAHuqwbgY9yB1sDb8Q89eQCyrUWta12fhBuPcc3_wGEcbY_gW4UPI8KhNJDvK8rjlE2E-Ij1OkwuqkEJZV19_8rEDhfQ/s320/269729740_2931847270458905_5970714680579397265_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our Honda is on the right having been spun into another vehicle</td></tr></tbody></table>On February 8 we drove from Sierra Vista to Chandler, briefly diverting to a Costco in Tucson to buy fuel and then to a Columbia Outlet store in Chandler to purchase some last minute clothing. We ended up at the home of Connie and Russ Upstill who were also on the tour. Time enough for us to have a mid-afternoon meal at a local restaurant before heading to the PHX airport for our overnight flight to Medellín, Colombia. One never knows what kinds of meals are served on airlines these days although international flights tend to have better options.<br />Our connecting flight in Charlotte was delayed due to deicing the plane followed by a minor mechanical issue. Once airborne it was clear sailing to Miami for another plane change where we caught up with a few more on our tour: John Bruder/Risé Foster Bruder and Nick Athanas, our Tropical Birding guide.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxdO8b7BQ4_N9JU72tz7huQ_o_7LvSjPleRXOhLdxkT3Gm98v3q549hMJ1KyI_mer6_w4iD_SmVjhZ523xYus0x0FKPOGf-AJk0jDbIOrGiPEMqhuciOlQ5LBd6VxkzZ7KkKiLjFPgxow7iUkdPmHtkXDQ2eh_QYaxzCZtkoyaWth5k4nHjySNbGu5A/s4032/IMG_4651.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxdO8b7BQ4_N9JU72tz7huQ_o_7LvSjPleRXOhLdxkT3Gm98v3q549hMJ1KyI_mer6_w4iD_SmVjhZ523xYus0x0FKPOGf-AJk0jDbIOrGiPEMqhuciOlQ5LBd6VxkzZ7KkKiLjFPgxow7iUkdPmHtkXDQ2eh_QYaxzCZtkoyaWth5k4nHjySNbGu5A/s320/IMG_4651.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">deicing - more familiar service when we flew out of WI</td></tr></tbody></table>Another brief plane delay waiting for late arriving passengers put our arrival in Medellín twenty minutes behind schedule. Then a long, long Immigration line but at least our luggage was waiting for us at the carousel. Time for everyone to exchange US dollars for Colombian Pesos (COPs) and for Tom to acquire a local carrier SIM card. We reassembled to meet up with our driver, Hermes, our driver for the entire tour. Even in late evening, our drive was unusually slow, over two hours of stop-and-go traffic before reaching the hotel, <a href="https://laextremadura.com" target="_blank">Hacienda La Extremadura</a>. We still had time to grab a bite to eat and drinks in the newly added hotel restaurant before retiring. Travel days can be exhausting.<br />February 9 was a "free day" before the official start of the tour. Rather than just sit around the hotel, we had organized a spur-of-the-moment plan to visit the local botanical gardens. We also met up with the rest of the members of our group: Tim and Bridget Widstrand Hill, Marge Hill (no relation), and Amy Sheldon. <br />Following a hotel breakfast we departed at 9:00am for the gardens. Fortunately, traffic was light (well, "light" being a relative term in Medellín, a city of over 11,000,000 people).</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhps4C8jkkZoiAA9vWWDRRgtfj9u-5PE4PrRbfkYEdnwkJGYBqBnbtwCsOuJ5-0oED_8D0PJroS62R9f9uec8PvJquZIMS4fNv5YGIBRqeyJ_CDaBMoawi8X_TL3can5IouOaSAUgHCnwuA7PMbpC5A5GgL8GM_6RLZbhWI4LYSMRw8wS8nzb5yZ1KRaw/s6793/IMG_4670.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3637" data-original-width="6793" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhps4C8jkkZoiAA9vWWDRRgtfj9u-5PE4PrRbfkYEdnwkJGYBqBnbtwCsOuJ5-0oED_8D0PJroS62R9f9uec8PvJquZIMS4fNv5YGIBRqeyJ_CDaBMoawi8X_TL3can5IouOaSAUgHCnwuA7PMbpC5A5GgL8GM_6RLZbhWI4LYSMRw8wS8nzb5yZ1KRaw/s320/IMG_4670.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">becoming acquainted with some of the common Colombian fauna</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5yK3vwuxuDuaCD6uRwYn5D9fFyqLk4WmDvrzzZWOCmISNODnhcRNTuLfGKzMO6nx0ngClqM49WAGrXypZVJjFy1lbeRYuS_pZt28ZM4BSmyc9m6QuUkUGx-RjQK9KOKnyiYcwJY7tStZejsDJ7FMOMq7SHlEO-E2Ykf3waGGo-cm-UuiLGcJ4zRpVA/s5385/IMG_4674.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5385" data-original-width="3750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5yK3vwuxuDuaCD6uRwYn5D9fFyqLk4WmDvrzzZWOCmISNODnhcRNTuLfGKzMO6nx0ngClqM49WAGrXypZVJjFy1lbeRYuS_pZt28ZM4BSmyc9m6QuUkUGx-RjQK9KOKnyiYcwJY7tStZejsDJ7FMOMq7SHlEO-E2Ykf3waGGo-cm-UuiLGcJ4zRpVA/s320/IMG_4674.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">unusual architecture </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhek3RHA08l-RsCALFJGpbgJATRGRhdclkIosXh6yPF7WrF06WC1Xk2XzChcDmoEEOxu0ztIZbi-IQfAKae1W6d8emMgbg4K0PLaSF7Hiwzdka_9JBDBbM7RHNxH8nBKyNGebz3XdyGpwu10kYckr2q8_cezYqeYFdgQWx0IkDyrzYa0ow20ESk6sPjeQ/s4032/IMG_4669.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhek3RHA08l-RsCALFJGpbgJATRGRhdclkIosXh6yPF7WrF06WC1Xk2XzChcDmoEEOxu0ztIZbi-IQfAKae1W6d8emMgbg4K0PLaSF7Hiwzdka_9JBDBbM7RHNxH8nBKyNGebz3XdyGpwu10kYckr2q8_cezYqeYFdgQWx0IkDyrzYa0ow20ESk6sPjeQ/s320/IMG_4669.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Madremonte: Colombian spirit/deity</td></tr></tbody></table>We enjoyed a relaxing and pleasant time walking the grounds at <a href="https://www.botanicomedellin.org/?fbclid=IwAR25MTbm0QO4ITIwpzpuJbp8Mt3ye1TrVXqwALWOpSb4mSiopX_ZEcOs0Kk" target="_blank">Joaquin Antonio Uribe Botanical Gardens</a>, an opportunity to become familiar with some of the more common and widespread bird species. Planning to catch a light lunch at one of the facilities's outdoor food venders, we were more than happy to discover the botanical gardens’s upscale restaurant: "<a href="https://www.botanicomedellin.org/vivenos/alimentos-y-bebidas/restaurante-in-situ/?fbclid=IwAR3Vjp-VMIL05z83E0-sZdz33srdFm6Z-Shpm80eJRhCBYwT-Lf0b9tUHLE" target="_blank">Insitu Restaurante</a>"</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFtiH4iQoR09r0Tgrox_aERshGTU6HVrxDfEvxb_hprPrgP2zOgRAJ-cUoqBCt3OME0Pwm7QbDSSO3wNQqy4pWYHXXPPiPGtINAa0silgRIJczobEhkSENqjjhxHUtOHw23fB05AoOzB17fJ96ZoePLX2GY26nlyDZJT4OxatPeeTCGRu9mkne_UIEA/s4032/IMG_7566%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFtiH4iQoR09r0Tgrox_aERshGTU6HVrxDfEvxb_hprPrgP2zOgRAJ-cUoqBCt3OME0Pwm7QbDSSO3wNQqy4pWYHXXPPiPGtINAa0silgRIJczobEhkSENqjjhxHUtOHw23fB05AoOzB17fJ96ZoePLX2GY26nlyDZJT4OxatPeeTCGRu9mkne_UIEA/s320/IMG_7566%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">surprise upscale dining at the botanical garden;<br />Carol, Bridget, Tim, John, Risé, Russ, Connie, Amy, Marge, Nick</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQFseRy-l1pvznbHyKlewgac5ndqH8ppet9ChGK_-ZG2K3Xi7yh-Z3YMRWA6YK7h6YUxTvr7OkeldyWBK2uybQyEHIHccGDTYBHe5OKqzgGUUN7_oXEtblM1BRS7x2JfLqysWPuqUt9_IlFt7IZJcJs78eXbhgr1_HOqp8QBrbFFZF7P7fl7-v0gw1Aw/s3285/IMG_4711.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2723" data-original-width="3285" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQFseRy-l1pvznbHyKlewgac5ndqH8ppet9ChGK_-ZG2K3Xi7yh-Z3YMRWA6YK7h6YUxTvr7OkeldyWBK2uybQyEHIHccGDTYBHe5OKqzgGUUN7_oXEtblM1BRS7x2JfLqysWPuqUt9_IlFt7IZJcJs78eXbhgr1_HOqp8QBrbFFZF7P7fl7-v0gw1Aw/s320/IMG_4711.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">back at hotel for adult beverages</td></tr></tbody></table>Back at our hotel by 3:00 we had time to relax. Some chose to bird the grounds a bit. Then we all gathered to partake in some adult beverages before sitting down to dinner at 6:00 which signaled the official beginning of our tour. Nick provided an overview of the next day’s itinerary which became an evening ritual (along with doing the daily checklist).</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5KQpbVuJCfCH6hS67i4OdgTTzKJh-mwvPRCBPD8j4oAka2ndEtHg17ndWqJbMlr5VVYV4KLbgOc4wBE5moF7QR4KQVozNgtO2LO7OMu31judEFw5xbGrdeewHC087b7VNzwtwzc35d2jwWX9S3IqDw2xXpJwTXJVqrOEOjiVYUSmK_TS87nzkhIE-Zg/s4032/IMG_7561%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5KQpbVuJCfCH6hS67i4OdgTTzKJh-mwvPRCBPD8j4oAka2ndEtHg17ndWqJbMlr5VVYV4KLbgOc4wBE5moF7QR4KQVozNgtO2LO7OMu31judEFw5xbGrdeewHC087b7VNzwtwzc35d2jwWX9S3IqDw2xXpJwTXJVqrOEOjiVYUSmK_TS87nzkhIE-Zg/s320/IMG_7561%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNZ2BXfr1p416uHq7TE7HaUp2iPTPd2ap_3TU6z2VGAbEP9qWVr-xECyVeVwsLQpRE09cVukY6GKuaK8s-GMaqIFKExkfT53dexUguXvDRqliR9s-F1y55_u0wqJ4oSBK1GopXk9PhNBHsaCX1V8Q5fyrkouDaEn1An_fT43vN9FEShFG2sJQ1wErRg/s4032/IMG_4713.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNZ2BXfr1p416uHq7TE7HaUp2iPTPd2ap_3TU6z2VGAbEP9qWVr-xECyVeVwsLQpRE09cVukY6GKuaK8s-GMaqIFKExkfT53dexUguXvDRqliR9s-F1y55_u0wqJ4oSBK1GopXk9PhNBHsaCX1V8Q5fyrkouDaEn1An_fT43vN9FEShFG2sJQ1wErRg/s320/IMG_4713.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel grounds</td></tr></tbody></table>Hacienda La Extremadura was already familiar to us. Our 2016 tour had ended here. There would be some overlap with a few of the early birding locations at the tour’s beginning but since no one else other than Carol and I had been to Colombia before, there was no overlap for the rest of the group.<br />February 10, the hotel provided a light breakfast and coffee before we set out on a day trip to the <a href="https://eco.sabaneta.gov.co/reserva-la-romera/" target="_blank">Parque Ecologico La La Romera</a> on the outskirts of Medellin.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDhI1Ok4G_mpOKd5EEZwFuLkLOh9WVka_Rwpv6kcee4eiu5ljrsGrRLn6h7yiEFxtehhRYr7Wsu-UXXcHWRJj28RNDyOx1vPkKYd7QNrRMCBWDQCEq0ysl8aQ92h7KawmEWGKurrlaSHyvS8ydgyKmrhRbf2SoK_nSfnwSgOT1STctgrRPL53oWTBNFA/s3915/IMG_4718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2163" data-original-width="3915" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDhI1Ok4G_mpOKd5EEZwFuLkLOh9WVka_Rwpv6kcee4eiu5ljrsGrRLn6h7yiEFxtehhRYr7Wsu-UXXcHWRJj28RNDyOx1vPkKYd7QNrRMCBWDQCEq0ysl8aQ92h7KawmEWGKurrlaSHyvS8ydgyKmrhRbf2SoK_nSfnwSgOT1STctgrRPL53oWTBNFA/s320/IMG_4718.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWRDHOcqGH1k65hp7S-dEm1Vgjm3jNsbdqcA4Z6yMZ5R9aOTXMQ_ITcn8r0h8jxZdYppqADWLj-5McSpAwGQ_lF77WnsLaMCN1OnluC7kIz8GNWO2YGpF3tpZ4AIzI1G19l92sThsP7fB3b3T_a_e31kwMtpgcScA-jn_7W_ASbrOzYSbfLPlXxtFUQ/s961/Capto_Capture%202022-07-26_01-34-41_PM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="961" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWRDHOcqGH1k65hp7S-dEm1Vgjm3jNsbdqcA4Z6yMZ5R9aOTXMQ_ITcn8r0h8jxZdYppqADWLj-5McSpAwGQ_lF77WnsLaMCN1OnluC7kIz8GNWO2YGpF3tpZ4AIzI1G19l92sThsP7fB3b3T_a_e31kwMtpgcScA-jn_7W_ASbrOzYSbfLPlXxtFUQ/s320/Capto_Capture%202022-07-26_01-34-41_PM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-bellied Grackle Photo: Nick Athanas</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDADnImsE09jDda4wdyLvI9Y-YNBoVfrST-VsCEYWXHYCmPtNSCtmravBAFn2HgN9yO6ZIb7kDlPScfvxqjAGMLX8WRnNncFsxeCwg94fKys05B-5F_Uj1Y7CuV17kfk7m4HQHQXvVcLRU0Xjv0JfgvZSw9awrI8QWs4-smxvdLJLnUw_SxLB6qShDwg/s449/Capto_Capture%202022-07-26_01-38-31_PM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="449" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDADnImsE09jDda4wdyLvI9Y-YNBoVfrST-VsCEYWXHYCmPtNSCtmravBAFn2HgN9yO6ZIb7kDlPScfvxqjAGMLX8WRnNncFsxeCwg94fKys05B-5F_Uj1Y7CuV17kfk7m4HQHQXvVcLRU0Xjv0JfgvZSw9awrI8QWs4-smxvdLJLnUw_SxLB6qShDwg/s320/Capto_Capture%202022-07-26_01-38-31_PM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-headed Manakin Photo: John Bruder</td></tr></tbody></table>This was the best and pretty much the only place for a target endemic: Red-bellied Grackle, which we found almost immediately upon our arrival. Nick mentioned that Yellow-headed Manakin and Stile’s Tapaculo were two more target birds of interest, the former being very difficult to find.<br />The manakin was heard and eventually Tom found one perched low in the understory. We lost track of it for a bit but eventually tracked it down for the rest of the group. Nick related that finding the manakin wasn’t always a given since he, in his three previous visits to the preserve, had only found it once. We felt pretty good, specially, since Carol and I had missed the bird during our 2016 stop at La Romera.<br />As for the Stile’s Tapaculo, tapaculos are notorious heard-only birds owing to their almost invisible mouse-like movements in the understory. Like the manakin, though, we eventually managed to get good looks.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhGDOzVjOXMMpMxGaUMCNVUuarSJR1tYHOhJHeCzfZzxCCb7LcohC-pEO7DGzowFyMXKhnJIUHZGe9zwLdKiss-zrMujL6QYBWR-Qmc0tp9Vn8_FndmlCr5UI3NPj1_j8V8x_xiYE1GjkDm4_nv9_IxlI7PkTDO8GdxFdb2txNIAQhuAQGvN-J2pFtA/s4032/IMG_7583%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhGDOzVjOXMMpMxGaUMCNVUuarSJR1tYHOhJHeCzfZzxCCb7LcohC-pEO7DGzowFyMXKhnJIUHZGe9zwLdKiss-zrMujL6QYBWR-Qmc0tp9Vn8_FndmlCr5UI3NPj1_j8V8x_xiYE1GjkDm4_nv9_IxlI7PkTDO8GdxFdb2txNIAQhuAQGvN-J2pFtA/s320/IMG_7583%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom enjoying local cup of coffee with the owner</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqYInGhGBb492__rlFZ84Wk1Oi8zM9nrpUa9srqK4P4LzvD_tdA9xzmT8ss6W3hMmOGm5fwBgoYjLE2BqJaV4HjTttnMPXh1TNrkm0gAoxL3ZKWuePE9Ab5UhgFMCMT4Z6-7J8NHmn328aoCCCEKpPcSWEUCZ22qxPqGEGQWMy2tx8fC0D1J3O_URxVw/s4032/IMG_7584%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqYInGhGBb492__rlFZ84Wk1Oi8zM9nrpUa9srqK4P4LzvD_tdA9xzmT8ss6W3hMmOGm5fwBgoYjLE2BqJaV4HjTttnMPXh1TNrkm0gAoxL3ZKWuePE9Ab5UhgFMCMT4Z6-7J8NHmn328aoCCCEKpPcSWEUCZ22qxPqGEGQWMy2tx8fC0D1J3O_URxVw/s320/IMG_7584%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hermes, our devoted driver throughout the tour</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRakJAo5gSJvFdj_ShHZEmHOw6u489zQSR4ZolQC6-i7_epDbcHRrxwgaf6abKyo0hLUrcvDcjHimJzVChs-YtsmMfeToL0o1Gui4xrR8jh4vyFWwwCddeucHJUon_QQ1gPN_hCgr7pk97rw1FPGXwCZy7rzxIpj6qDXNKGgAy-xuEDXWzofanwxkHrA/s4032/IMG_7585%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRakJAo5gSJvFdj_ShHZEmHOw6u489zQSR4ZolQC6-i7_epDbcHRrxwgaf6abKyo0hLUrcvDcjHimJzVChs-YtsmMfeToL0o1Gui4xrR8jh4vyFWwwCddeucHJUon_QQ1gPN_hCgr7pk97rw1FPGXwCZy7rzxIpj6qDXNKGgAy-xuEDXWzofanwxkHrA/s320/IMG_7585%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">birding from the deck</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jJVdjosLZ-gYtO542BC0JtY-wEqelJs7LFhkdPBlRppDVjGu46zkUmvorScF3wPGnhbtgkpLO4ApN8l03Z1Yv3zR5ymLke87RfL7bEJMcX0dO4-zhXJ5nB1PSjd3qKi57v95SC9-CM1IXzQ-eKLiVschNDz8rDgFFZUkPuZc01smYu5oR4iO-j6GAw/s1677/blackcappedtanager_1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="992" data-original-width="1677" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jJVdjosLZ-gYtO542BC0JtY-wEqelJs7LFhkdPBlRppDVjGu46zkUmvorScF3wPGnhbtgkpLO4ApN8l03Z1Yv3zR5ymLke87RfL7bEJMcX0dO4-zhXJ5nB1PSjd3qKi57v95SC9-CM1IXzQ-eKLiVschNDz8rDgFFZUkPuZc01smYu5oR4iO-j6GAw/s320/blackcappedtanager_1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-capped Tanager</td></tr></tbody></table>Back at the hotel we gathered our luggage, checked out and loaded into our van headed to our next overnight in the town of Jardin.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86j1SrtPxxLmhxR89Z7-deHTrUlYE94xdt17cjVTbXU_P5EOW1pwoOS38LZ8NFt95t9OMdygzyTHin9sXAHPt5Qb57jlT8zrFul79MVmeFRYtCQNpmLV7Gkfh121lACgwo6jlt3c5LzdXVXSUbN4fuMk63YZ1VlhO1_smFy3BkK1y7mMAHfnyZ8u-Kg/s3062/IMG_4720.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1688" data-original-width="3062" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86j1SrtPxxLmhxR89Z7-deHTrUlYE94xdt17cjVTbXU_P5EOW1pwoOS38LZ8NFt95t9OMdygzyTHin9sXAHPt5Qb57jlT8zrFul79MVmeFRYtCQNpmLV7Gkfh121lACgwo6jlt3c5LzdXVXSUbN4fuMk63YZ1VlhO1_smFy3BkK1y7mMAHfnyZ8u-Kg/s320/IMG_4720.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">leaving Medellín behind</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvRIqtSo9Advdyq7i9SgF4tsT1_VF8nbUGAfkuZ3ZHAVJkH00J63o--VQ6YIOni0pS54ulk-vboNcXyQY-hcYESXr3EAuC5-K_7rMgUDENkAKBqPJnWYQbWSEuBSiFOwcMXFHG_TTv3JtmrnSNlZWRw0JPNYCR-gGmR6kOmtDsiXGZhrchj4KB6PMvQ/s2296/IMG_4728.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1444" data-original-width="2296" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvRIqtSo9Advdyq7i9SgF4tsT1_VF8nbUGAfkuZ3ZHAVJkH00J63o--VQ6YIOni0pS54ulk-vboNcXyQY-hcYESXr3EAuC5-K_7rMgUDENkAKBqPJnWYQbWSEuBSiFOwcMXFHG_TTv3JtmrnSNlZWRw0JPNYCR-gGmR6kOmtDsiXGZhrchj4KB6PMvQ/s320/IMG_4728.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">passing the sacred peak of Cerro Tusa</td></tr></tbody></table>On the way we stopped at a private home, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/fincabambusa/?ref=page_internal" target="_blank">Finca La Bambusa</a> where we were treated to a light snack of pastries and coffee by the family plantation's doná while observing Scrub Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager, Black-capped Tanager and Crimson-backed Tanager coming to feeders. A brief view of Black-chested Jays, our only sighting during the tour.<br />Arriving in Jardin, instead of immediately checking into <a href="http://hotelvaldiviaplaza.co" target="_blank">Hotel Valdivia Plaza</a>, we drove a few blocks to the town’s outskirts to visit <a href="https://jardin.antioquia.in/Sitios-Turisticos/gallito-de-roca" target="_blank">Gallito de Roca Reserve</a>, an Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek at the bottom of a steep gully. An Andean Cock-of-the-rock was by no means a life bird having seen them infrequently in Ecuador. However, the sight of so many males lekking so close together - almost within arm’s length from us at times - was an amazing experience.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01DG8gSLvBtBSyuopiD6BDpHtHLXxHJCVrAjSSbCu30WxOg7R7J1R9yhvfBC6JfozipqZ_PzdtiWA9WhhOi-c9PzvKDJJtVG2rhAw7oLsxPCax2oGevbDdDoQKRO03bl77C_ekbSiqAEPNlBBnSaH4sja3dw4TddSMAN_zDnak_vF6X89kdlGq3alJQ/s2800/cockoftherock_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2569" data-original-width="2800" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01DG8gSLvBtBSyuopiD6BDpHtHLXxHJCVrAjSSbCu30WxOg7R7J1R9yhvfBC6JfozipqZ_PzdtiWA9WhhOi-c9PzvKDJJtVG2rhAw7oLsxPCax2oGevbDdDoQKRO03bl77C_ekbSiqAEPNlBBnSaH4sja3dw4TddSMAN_zDnak_vF6X89kdlGq3alJQ/s320/cockoftherock_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJVyWVkS8uyVUimgx4LkA2N--NMB4YLJmRfhgs7I-PlZesi9rRFarcj5kZPDkJia2_s0dVm3cZptyhZIUdCycZ2Phx81jseoksdSsX1pyCZHraINmcTpoI6gQVR4VyvBwT4EYqY5yzeH0YjIDW9Ogjj_UJF_TuiiPGVeUU3JGhCp9hCP1ri7FCkIveQ/s2748/cockoftherock_7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2748" data-original-width="2401" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJVyWVkS8uyVUimgx4LkA2N--NMB4YLJmRfhgs7I-PlZesi9rRFarcj5kZPDkJia2_s0dVm3cZptyhZIUdCycZ2Phx81jseoksdSsX1pyCZHraINmcTpoI6gQVR4VyvBwT4EYqY5yzeH0YjIDW9Ogjj_UJF_TuiiPGVeUU3JGhCp9hCP1ri7FCkIveQ/s320/cockoftherock_7.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Andean Cock-of-the-rock</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Lek: A communal area in which two or more males of a species perform courtship displays. Varying degrees of interaction occur between the males, from virtually none to closely cooperative dancing. Females visit the lek briefly to observe and select mates.</span><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNICl7_VORzJpwcJ-jB_Nm8UGfal0ILdmI_VH63mY2qJ6b1IPDcTWpmbUEC9yL2i_y95ZOHJeDhVDWuP9nOr-rYVet107ceFBoZfC2Re7lRIHNk7Too9ZIZYBsorUphBJcPxeCMQqq4zLdG44FS7J8ydpwgFHn-_qcl3rqDisQbiLyvWrmu6ilmMR9pA/s4032/IMG_7592%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNICl7_VORzJpwcJ-jB_Nm8UGfal0ILdmI_VH63mY2qJ6b1IPDcTWpmbUEC9yL2i_y95ZOHJeDhVDWuP9nOr-rYVet107ceFBoZfC2Re7lRIHNk7Too9ZIZYBsorUphBJcPxeCMQqq4zLdG44FS7J8ydpwgFHn-_qcl3rqDisQbiLyvWrmu6ilmMR9pA/s320/IMG_7592%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">La plaza del Jardin</span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChLnWjsAI3VMeWT_rpqpc5O1lDXcjSmrMZeH1tIyZh6iQSuDeEknrzbYlq_ZmtU1ao0DjTj6SMHVkTT4YCD3PCA41e3n3Xi2EqgAVCn2tk3XxX5OqkIQk-5kA8I5r50CJnw2eqFsIsDnj5ltbAaX2fQOnGrx6Ap3kBvQHd9vgEvmEx7XS9sL-wd5p3Q/s3410/IMG_4836.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3410" data-original-width="2738" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChLnWjsAI3VMeWT_rpqpc5O1lDXcjSmrMZeH1tIyZh6iQSuDeEknrzbYlq_ZmtU1ao0DjTj6SMHVkTT4YCD3PCA41e3n3Xi2EqgAVCn2tk3XxX5OqkIQk-5kA8I5r50CJnw2eqFsIsDnj5ltbAaX2fQOnGrx6Ap3kBvQHd9vgEvmEx7XS9sL-wd5p3Q/s320/IMG_4836.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""source sans pro", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(59, 68, 79); color: #3b444f; text-align: start;">Church of the Immaculate Conception, Jardin</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Dinner that night was at a small cafe in the town square across from our hotel.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Our marching orders for the next day dictated that we wake very early and load into a small convoy of 4WD vehicles. Riding in 4WDs was to be a repeated theme throughout the rest of our tour.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW4Ec4It209H5NKHi9mIAsFXpRuOOJ_Uu3aat6r5l3QwwwGz4hLLH3_lO-KySaskmm7EmFL4wb19ofJnenqF6MmW4POrqCV3QSaf0FFs_W6x1q6EVWBTRI4ESpwspTTB-Hsa_i8mxlmvwb5ivuvp2Hfy2i6KXEpXd-_iCmdn3alhxgllhPPCLx8u3itQ/s4032/IMG_4840.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW4Ec4It209H5NKHi9mIAsFXpRuOOJ_Uu3aat6r5l3QwwwGz4hLLH3_lO-KySaskmm7EmFL4wb19ofJnenqF6MmW4POrqCV3QSaf0FFs_W6x1q6EVWBTRI4ESpwspTTB-Hsa_i8mxlmvwb5ivuvp2Hfy2i6KXEpXd-_iCmdn3alhxgllhPPCLx8u3itQ/s320/IMG_4840.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">early morning arrival at Mirador El Roble</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUa0jxv43EUcRpLLFYb7ALTrAG-uGKaFFWbxdi4tVVhFjUBhL_GVMpEx5YQPRhFjTPGVaviDwFfUoYgJl2Fn3pHzFN36Pax7yETJ9-hg5U3ZPBZagjxIiQoUtyJ5r9kFRdjkcmqhAoVChLOSAbo69AcC6kEx_qFzyo1bMofoJtNVow1K5xL_XRSTCQQ/s2330/IMG_4915.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="2330" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUa0jxv43EUcRpLLFYb7ALTrAG-uGKaFFWbxdi4tVVhFjUBhL_GVMpEx5YQPRhFjTPGVaviDwFfUoYgJl2Fn3pHzFN36Pax7yETJ9-hg5U3ZPBZagjxIiQoUtyJ5r9kFRdjkcmqhAoVChLOSAbo69AcC6kEx_qFzyo1bMofoJtNVow1K5xL_XRSTCQQ/s320/IMG_4915.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cheeky Slaty Brushfinch</td></tr></tbody></table>Fortified with an infusion of caffeine, we set off on a ride up a rough road in the dark to a small private preserve, </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/MiradorElRoble/?ref=page_internal" style="font-size: large;" target="_blank">Mirador El Roble</a><span style="font-size: medium;">. There we hoped to see Yellow-eared Parrots which have been declining in population owing to agricultural expansions decimating the wax palm the parrots use for nesting and roosting. Other important targets included a couple of antpitta species.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Antpittas, similar to tapaculos, are far more often heard and not seen well, if at all. That has changed somewhat in the past 15-20 years or so with the discovery that antpittas can be coaxed out into the open with offerings of mealworms. This was due to the early work of Angel Paz, dubbed the “antpitta whisperer”, in Ecuador. We visited </span><a href="https://www.refugiopazdelasaves.com" style="font-size: large;" target="_blank">Angel’s farm</a><span style="font-size: medium;"> during our 2008 Northern Ecuador Tour with Tropical Birding to witness first hand this remarkable man/bird relationship.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Arriving at the the reserve at daybreak we kicked off our visit with a sumptuous breakfast as we met our charming hostess “Donã Lucia”. Nearby feeders attracted hummingbirds which lead to the one-on-one experience of feeding many hummingbirds by hand. Species included Lesser and Sparkling Violetears, Speckled Hummingbird, Buff-tailed Coronet, White-bellied Woodstar, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Bronzy and Collared Incas, and Tourmaline Sunangel.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0teLn6RR0JzFYhB4fN3iv-UlAmrvWiIkyRFN49vI3b_IJQ3BUkVL-UJgALCcTbHyFZugRR_mAw_uRaspykJEhyyfVQl3ih0Atf-QXj9wbRxkF1RYRHyyPhxcK-HoZ9wwU2Lts1RJ4hNk58fhLY83MiSoYUPPw18WRprsqJyydF-8SHfnykBu7uCg8g/s4032/IMG_7633%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2475" data-original-width="4032" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0teLn6RR0JzFYhB4fN3iv-UlAmrvWiIkyRFN49vI3b_IJQ3BUkVL-UJgALCcTbHyFZugRR_mAw_uRaspykJEhyyfVQl3ih0Atf-QXj9wbRxkF1RYRHyyPhxcK-HoZ9wwU2Lts1RJ4hNk58fhLY83MiSoYUPPw18WRprsqJyydF-8SHfnykBu7uCg8g/s320/IMG_7633%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOS6hysc5hPX0zcCM2RXrtaTt2hiH7uyTBi8myL5cemH2ZJ18tWTCftPPg_58Des25_tZ1GRRdPKAbTuIbbl6gx0rI2mNQ4WGm5kfRxOOarfMSxjte2l_QL_fJM_qbIzVpOuXGOln8ZB16aGbiFkSwo8n57R2RB8uzWUOJIOQ9d8n_p8w-B2Ie4Gq1ag/s4032/IMG_7626%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOS6hysc5hPX0zcCM2RXrtaTt2hiH7uyTBi8myL5cemH2ZJ18tWTCftPPg_58Des25_tZ1GRRdPKAbTuIbbl6gx0rI2mNQ4WGm5kfRxOOarfMSxjte2l_QL_fJM_qbIzVpOuXGOln8ZB16aGbiFkSwo8n57R2RB8uzWUOJIOQ9d8n_p8w-B2Ie4Gq1ag/s320/IMG_7626%204.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marge interfacing with hummers</td></tr></tbody></table>A flock of White-capped Tanagers made an appearance easily disrupting breakfast as people scrambled for binoculars. A pretty common occurrence on bird tours when eating outdoors. An emboldened Slaty Brushfinch made repeated visits to our outdoor dining space to steal tidbits of food.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G5sXMGAoij4MnCsu2arkEd3iijcBzk6CTJIBsus1j1JPO1s6FYKMCsBZFj_1wJAhcTjZAAssQV-RTyxjH5BHQRWurqGxLdaHlxQXOAWabQg_KHgLRITAIz0FsfFElrmPSXxbsqeAzeL36s71BKGbba5zaFAH0cLyTPsSrYHjJQ0TAJpAcO_OR58zfw/s4032/IMG_7659%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G5sXMGAoij4MnCsu2arkEd3iijcBzk6CTJIBsus1j1JPO1s6FYKMCsBZFj_1wJAhcTjZAAssQV-RTyxjH5BHQRWurqGxLdaHlxQXOAWabQg_KHgLRITAIz0FsfFElrmPSXxbsqeAzeL36s71BKGbba5zaFAH0cLyTPsSrYHjJQ0TAJpAcO_OR58zfw/s320/IMG_7659%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin trying to get Chestnut-named Antpitta to show but no luck</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi77kd3MEE1M-0yS6Gs_En16UOHHQO_HY-R4yUqs0YnuNECxLEWq-yngtaeEvWxpYSLlaGehkJPRvb1qtCDT-J8R6kHjetNhix-QIW2PEKMuDA2rs7x5mRbCfc6UbmaWZ0dom0mwu1ADw3pBvMqP8007-eS0RzvMXbBnBgzTJoHESa1hhrWzWmIlbr9cw/s2244/IMG_4877.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2244" data-original-width="2162" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi77kd3MEE1M-0yS6Gs_En16UOHHQO_HY-R4yUqs0YnuNECxLEWq-yngtaeEvWxpYSLlaGehkJPRvb1qtCDT-J8R6kHjetNhix-QIW2PEKMuDA2rs7x5mRbCfc6UbmaWZ0dom0mwu1ADw3pBvMqP8007-eS0RzvMXbBnBgzTJoHESa1hhrWzWmIlbr9cw/s320/IMG_4877.jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Linda"</td></tr></tbody></table>As mentioned earlier, one reason for being at the reserve was to observe antpittas being cajoled to come into the open to feed on mealworms. Following an arduous hike lead by Lucia and local guide, Martin, we crowded into a clearing hoping to glimpse “Linda”, a Chami Antpitta (recently split from the Rufous Antpitta group). “Linda” and one of her offspring were quite showy. Alas, the second Antpitta species we had hoped to see, Chestnut-naped Antpitta, was a no show. But we did hear Slate-crowned Antpitta vocalizing nearby.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Chami Antpitta is a medium-sized antpitta. Its range is restricted to high elevation cloud forest in the western Andes of Colombia. Chami sp. was previously considered to a subspecies in the Rufous Antpitta complex. When the Rufous Antpitta species complex was split into 13 separate species, Chami became a separate species and yes, this was a now a life bird. And an endemic.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia85TGdy5kgTMlQTH7ThGytllN6cTFnVakXulwuPFegCSJn87alX92H2UKs6vjxIT_A-L5WQsl53yy8i5x70hXQEtqWhrNfHr6h57e1h85-Wf13E0VeLUuEx7W2YFOwQ7DjjxYn-ojS5Z8rckanyYm0eaSqAwcKCTT6cleeINlEkP81FBAWIWwWMZWBQ/s4032/IMG_7610%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia85TGdy5kgTMlQTH7ThGytllN6cTFnVakXulwuPFegCSJn87alX92H2UKs6vjxIT_A-L5WQsl53yy8i5x70hXQEtqWhrNfHr6h57e1h85-Wf13E0VeLUuEx7W2YFOwQ7DjjxYn-ojS5Z8rckanyYm0eaSqAwcKCTT6cleeINlEkP81FBAWIWwWMZWBQ/s320/IMG_7610%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Doná Lucia" posing with group</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIHWYwqNPDZXCS7hLZ59BeGw-7D3pwNT354ypY07SD8_3BQLNXz5su6vc2A_zIR_v_tzFiTdfVJPOU7imvKkWT3jMmwq3yBaoi3fsPql_TBGYfXC2pIwADkT0T7otTXJZ6hlDexLGsyy9xS_hrd_Er6qcdnc3_cPWLw-f40WbDPJDsDg_SvfN5zrZ2g/s4032/IMG_7612%204.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIHWYwqNPDZXCS7hLZ59BeGw-7D3pwNT354ypY07SD8_3BQLNXz5su6vc2A_zIR_v_tzFiTdfVJPOU7imvKkWT3jMmwq3yBaoi3fsPql_TBGYfXC2pIwADkT0T7otTXJZ6hlDexLGsyy9xS_hrd_Er6qcdnc3_cPWLw-f40WbDPJDsDg_SvfN5zrZ2g/s320/IMG_7612%204.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin posing with group at El Roble property</td></tr></tbody></table>Upon our return to Lucia’s dwellings, we encountered a mixed flock containing Cinnamon Flycatcher, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, and Blue-and-black Tanager. Before lunch we added Pale-edged Flycatcher, Green Jay, Mountain Cacique, Acorn Woodpecker and White-sided and Masked Flowerpiercers. But still no Yellow-eared Parrots and it was time to leave.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZS2JoU3OLgPBQAN1uIldJ0LvvTKM1rdbAsZrF1rKMXewMixdK-Db1At3YAVrtbrHWx36ZpadGDI9ydyFb-E27oVbgqbN-iXc5Fn7baxIeig9R66LHjgg27oK6e2ijpsmo-YJBqHqcsOynP0hxfNDwJtoFRfPoEY_WnJzmxbeMvJUHODxJ8C6dVChPHg/s8700/IMG_4900.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3862" data-original-width="8700" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZS2JoU3OLgPBQAN1uIldJ0LvvTKM1rdbAsZrF1rKMXewMixdK-Db1At3YAVrtbrHWx36ZpadGDI9ydyFb-E27oVbgqbN-iXc5Fn7baxIeig9R66LHjgg27oK6e2ijpsmo-YJBqHqcsOynP0hxfNDwJtoFRfPoEY_WnJzmxbeMvJUHODxJ8C6dVChPHg/s320/IMG_4900.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">crossed the clearing to get to forest area to view antpittas</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatDGV5ib_U1lwYOQwo4WAlZqp35tSbb7iuZtGW-6pyYjOWtQoc70OtxOSb-05V2fOvdkKgh9i_E0RZ9GnK8RiY0piRn1vGRa9uA7PSIBAzogJ7mTzSMLtK_uFwzfix8PxD1cKgZoJRAOkS6oBSfM3N_LAXWyz46BAH4VI4T5oaaTIROFchqsefhTwrw/s2970/IMG_4906.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2480" data-original-width="2970" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatDGV5ib_U1lwYOQwo4WAlZqp35tSbb7iuZtGW-6pyYjOWtQoc70OtxOSb-05V2fOvdkKgh9i_E0RZ9GnK8RiY0piRn1vGRa9uA7PSIBAzogJ7mTzSMLtK_uFwzfix8PxD1cKgZoJRAOkS6oBSfM3N_LAXWyz46BAH4VI4T5oaaTIROFchqsefhTwrw/s320/IMG_4906.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hiking back up to have lunch at El Roble</td></tr></tbody></table>Typically, sightings of Yellow-eared Parrot occur around the Lucia’s lodge. It wasn’t until we were driving back and slowed at a location where Nick had seen the parrots on earlier tours. Sure enough, Nick heard Yellow-eared Parrots flying nearby. We leapt out of our vehicles just in time to have a pair fly low directly overhead and eventually land some distance away for scoped views. Whew! Dinner that night was again in a small cafe alongside the Jardin town square where we toasted our day’s successes!</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mwZ5YZGM_6c-Th6n4vxVpVQAJS0gSWtLeZlaZ4L2ff71eh2B6tNXdAHRih2UjHv1TFwN1x9d3IJaRRPuYzxDcx2k2II8YIfHdtgl_713i7lGk8mQNTcuZoeVIsGjgTwEU9VYiiBd3ZJD4atO5kAkIJSvCKHDfUB8ZWwrbneVGabDRS1VoA8KEubEYQ/s1392/IMG_4960.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1151" data-original-width="1392" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mwZ5YZGM_6c-Th6n4vxVpVQAJS0gSWtLeZlaZ4L2ff71eh2B6tNXdAHRih2UjHv1TFwN1x9d3IJaRRPuYzxDcx2k2II8YIfHdtgl_713i7lGk8mQNTcuZoeVIsGjgTwEU9VYiiBd3ZJD4atO5kAkIJSvCKHDfUB8ZWwrbneVGabDRS1VoA8KEubEYQ/s320/IMG_4960.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-eared Parrot</td></tr></tbody></table>With another pre-daylight departure, we left Jardin behind and dropped into the Cauca Valley to bird along the Cauca River searching for three endemics: Grayish Piculet, Antioquia Wren, and Apical Flycatcher. The spot we stopped isn’t even an official eBird hotspot (a nearby restaurant is the closest spot mentioned in eBird). This location was simply noted as “road to Concordia km 3”. But it proved to be very reliable as we quickly managed to garner all three endemics.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Endemic: “restricted or peculiar to a locality or region”. A main attraction to any bird tour in addition to seeing as many bird species as possible, is seeing as many endemic species as possible.</span><span> </span><span style="font-size: medium;">By the way, Colombia has 85 endemic bird species. How many are there in the United States? 16.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The valley also proved fruitful as we added Spectacled Parrotlet, Scale-fronted Parakeet, Bar-creasted and Black-crowned Antshrikes, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Rufous-naped Greenlet, Black-striped Sparrow, Yellow-backed Oriole and Golden-crowned Warbler.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">After a couple of hours birding we had built up an appetite. A stop for brunch at the aforementioned eBird hotspot restaurant, </span><a href="https://cafelamanchuria.com/en/" style="font-size: large;" target="_blank">Cafe la Manchuria</a><span style="font-size: medium;">, filled the bill.</span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Topped off with food and drink we struck out on one of our longer drives made even longer by road construction delays before reaching our next overnight in the town of Manizales: the <a href="https://en.estelarrecintodelpensamiento.com" target="_blank">Recinto del Pensamiento Hotel and Convention Center</a>. Arriving in the rain we checked into our rooms and then put our umbrellas to work for a short walk around the grounds where we found an unusually cooperative Golden-faced Tyrannulet. Reassembling for adult beverages and our evening meal we couldn’t help observe a very large and raucous wedding reception. Fortunately the hotel venue for the event was some distance from our rooms so we didn’t have to mingle with the revelers (and they with us).<br /></span></span><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatWTMPRLreBKmIzUKBvhq7t1_fhrJHgLdfmGLhHTsV4N9ClN6lzjiBnEbh70LjAPurKv1OfKO09VZU3C4YqR9Qb9NDjukrlnWVE5lu0HRd6GXkBBVerhqvMhIo0xPmS4Azo6CrBhwDmMlAJ-cqKcbizaH_ZpWZ0Tb2gi_UXGxPWIwB0wqEZq4fo9w4w/s1635/IMG_4976.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1400" data-original-width="1635" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatWTMPRLreBKmIzUKBvhq7t1_fhrJHgLdfmGLhHTsV4N9ClN6lzjiBnEbh70LjAPurKv1OfKO09VZU3C4YqR9Qb9NDjukrlnWVE5lu0HRd6GXkBBVerhqvMhIo0xPmS4Azo6CrBhwDmMlAJ-cqKcbizaH_ZpWZ0Tb2gi_UXGxPWIwB0wqEZq4fo9w4w/s320/IMG_4976.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Golden-faced Tyrannulet</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-52320329686995272202022-03-12T10:20:00.001-08:002022-03-12T10:20:30.044-08:00Costa Rica Reunion Tour 2021 - Part 3<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Having left Hotel Queliales, our schedule going forward was shifted a bit owing to weather conditions. Not at all unusual as Richard typical has an eye on the weather and how it might impact our plans. Always have a Plan B.</span><div><br /><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Our first stop was Casa Turire, a resort we’ve never stayed at but birding the grounds and adjacent lake usually netted us some good birds. On the road into the ground passing an agricultural field we encountered several Southern Lapwing up close and personal.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhPtVo_WkhaJ3NDPIXbHbkp3xLX7wh5fFlcARvJDv-3oJHzt68DVhljIGlQLucWcO8DWrdN5IM5_rxSKaiYRq5ciHqVdwMsKlMNYIQqaxD5t5JCPWIOB3VRxILU_R51xNw6GVlLPAKBhkjHXpD5ZgObvb7sg-B2PKiXRsoUrd_1Oc8nYUDIvdsNH9BFHg=s1757" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="929" data-original-width="1757" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhPtVo_WkhaJ3NDPIXbHbkp3xLX7wh5fFlcARvJDv-3oJHzt68DVhljIGlQLucWcO8DWrdN5IM5_rxSKaiYRq5ciHqVdwMsKlMNYIQqaxD5t5JCPWIOB3VRxILU_R51xNw6GVlLPAKBhkjHXpD5ZgObvb7sg-B2PKiXRsoUrd_1Oc8nYUDIvdsNH9BFHg=s320" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjHaDmPsQ4qxwXGj8KIRRnZouyRtNM49cXPh7VlcWFQ0BXR22611_4YrwBRR0eJbbml0LGIigoR-ASwakLxkawNvQBmaOcpmffy2dX0qnxKGUroUwKkJD1nElN4llmAeJPKkJD8asYin3Fv9vsM8Qi14hUfAJK-40emUs1LxTRf55byZXnaTNpdsuFNhg=s2067" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1615" data-original-width="2067" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjHaDmPsQ4qxwXGj8KIRRnZouyRtNM49cXPh7VlcWFQ0BXR22611_4YrwBRR0eJbbml0LGIigoR-ASwakLxkawNvQBmaOcpmffy2dX0qnxKGUroUwKkJD1nElN4llmAeJPKkJD8asYin3Fv9vsM8Qi14hUfAJK-40emUs1LxTRf55byZXnaTNpdsuFNhg=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Orange-chinned Parakeet and Crimson-fronted Parakeet flyovers plus Giant Cowbird were also roadside looks. Parking at the hotel we wandered down to the water scoping looks at Snail Kite, Purple Gallinule, Limpkin, Northern Jacana and Ringed and Green Kingfishers.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">A quick stop at a private park preserve was our one and only chance at a Boat-billed Heron which we found nesting in pond along with Cattle Egret and Purple Gallinule.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiiCJLHxCz0pOw37_Twq4icKVp_lPtfuhz1X_lCqPbWtP4OryPcFAVK3wQ48Ew0K7JZ2iV3_Ipu8gmRW8WJBwaDBgg4H-UjltrT1s7OO07r0ebsTYbfGOY3h3bkqeRG2h6Jj8Y24hOjC4nT3AdUXeMNCvcFmeFX_7gCbZuk1VG5Dle16Vh94m3GVz1fBA=s1002" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="794" data-original-width="1002" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiiCJLHxCz0pOw37_Twq4icKVp_lPtfuhz1X_lCqPbWtP4OryPcFAVK3wQ48Ew0K7JZ2iV3_Ipu8gmRW8WJBwaDBgg4H-UjltrT1s7OO07r0ebsTYbfGOY3h3bkqeRG2h6Jj8Y24hOjC4nT3AdUXeMNCvcFmeFX_7gCbZuk1VG5Dle16Vh94m3GVz1fBA=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Boat-billed Heron (photo: John Bruder)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEix925vx9bQX_0tmpsof0hJFFFLCBPvXplx-FvBC0rqnEP5ezdub9a08bUcqb-8rM2ekZgSRHUnb9CUOThiQ8MRBXiBo6isCJk7jXW139h_09YdP0tKrFDhJqu4rREl9XZWsA0gqu7fPlOSQoCrcPDQBRtV90wLRCswc949PjwaBQ8OIQYnxpVXkMclyQ=s1519" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1519" data-original-width="1217" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEix925vx9bQX_0tmpsof0hJFFFLCBPvXplx-FvBC0rqnEP5ezdub9a08bUcqb-8rM2ekZgSRHUnb9CUOThiQ8MRBXiBo6isCJk7jXW139h_09YdP0tKrFDhJqu4rREl9XZWsA0gqu7fPlOSQoCrcPDQBRtV90wLRCswc949PjwaBQ8OIQYnxpVXkMclyQ=s320" width="256" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Purple Gallinule </span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg71UYmFKeeEjt2Uol6-Xzlgl5u-EvoVB3_K_jDILe7ihPrC_V71wOgRgwK_k075r5kQYlVEqrUbZb-oC72XcPhEmPn-TUY6D42KplDbiffmRz3cV2zeXnF99dG598OdXOJ-yBD5cF8LWU6XAU1GA6RWYHRmFHr0zsZvU1t7wbWcT0C1Uu0ZLhp4QVl4g=s2175" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2175" data-original-width="1564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg71UYmFKeeEjt2Uol6-Xzlgl5u-EvoVB3_K_jDILe7ihPrC_V71wOgRgwK_k075r5kQYlVEqrUbZb-oC72XcPhEmPn-TUY6D42KplDbiffmRz3cV2zeXnF99dG598OdXOJ-yBD5cF8LWU6XAU1GA6RWYHRmFHr0zsZvU1t7wbWcT0C1Uu0ZLhp4QVl4g=s320" width="230" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Cattle Egret</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">More roadside birding netted us Mistletoe Tyrannulet and Yellow-throated Euphonia before we arrived at our next overnight (and another new lodge for us), Rainforest Adventures Braulio Carrillo. By then it was raining as we moved our bags up an incline to small cabins above the parking lot. Unfortunately, another victim of COVID was that the large gift shop and restaurant were closed. Instead a very much lighter meal was served in a nearby shelter. Too bad as we had been extolling the wonders of the now shuttered gift shop.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPnFgYGXPGdrhaB48GiTS7TdGm8Cff6FwrjYnR3tOpTLCOwRTgfoAT45egqQZYlbcwpIYpdOVDxc1wpWNIqRrLtVUTtb-zjBST0r4_rtu6Q9lbhBQCDRcgx_3nbyJL0Yh5e2rgQ1tVMwkoNH91s2Uj-Qse5z1McYdw680nGxZWPNlw_B5vYdNmbOXXlQ=s5184" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="5184" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPnFgYGXPGdrhaB48GiTS7TdGm8Cff6FwrjYnR3tOpTLCOwRTgfoAT45egqQZYlbcwpIYpdOVDxc1wpWNIqRrLtVUTtb-zjBST0r4_rtu6Q9lbhBQCDRcgx_3nbyJL0Yh5e2rgQ1tVMwkoNH91s2Uj-Qse5z1McYdw680nGxZWPNlw_B5vYdNmbOXXlQ=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Cabins located above the parking lot</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">One option for some was to take a nighttime guided tour. We had elected instead to get some sleep but the three who did the walk were full of high praise for the guide. Perhaps our second night I might try the walk?</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Up at 5:30 the next morning we had a full schedule beginning by birding the grounds. Heard Great Tinamou, saw Short-bileld Pigeon, a soaring King Vulture, Scarlet-rumped Cicique and Bright-rumped Attila. However the star of the morning was a few Bare-necked Umbrella birds hanging around the parking lot.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">During our first Costa Rica tour in 2008 we purchased a piece of art of an antbird drawn on a leaf. The artist was Cope who years later we finally met during a stop at Cope’s home which is now a must-see stop which is where we headed next.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg6BnapB3o7sOTCo9l7BHQG8Qzq6rFky0Fb-wty26w89VTfCLNZiP5NepaUdSLpTcQPbuoz5Lm8-FYVqDj3jDerIuPImaGTAABtdnbPNHyxt8Pk7DW_h2wlC_Z7zuro7ojWh86DH0IogVWr8P8HULhYwR0EMzs2rwXUstfFue16UiYPmzGIlg0PBTYHmg=s3658" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3658" data-original-width="2870" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg6BnapB3o7sOTCo9l7BHQG8Qzq6rFky0Fb-wty26w89VTfCLNZiP5NepaUdSLpTcQPbuoz5Lm8-FYVqDj3jDerIuPImaGTAABtdnbPNHyxt8Pk7DW_h2wlC_Z7zuro7ojWh86DH0IogVWr8P8HULhYwR0EMzs2rwXUstfFue16UiYPmzGIlg0PBTYHmg=s320" width="251" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi92DqxgaPaZ6Uphme5OXSSwIfmPRxsylraE26seW5A-2gazFMINGjbzb4Ufh_Lebn-bRKu-xiOK244kSclJPfAo3GCCJZw0C7LODn9Nn_RbxlSDvPMqWS8YTWXvIeGVpWC48X4hdUY_4wSnlMOb1JACMeFoDN6WJjfwslteZ6psWOOfVgNNgDE8Ym8ng=s3307" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3307" data-original-width="2954" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi92DqxgaPaZ6Uphme5OXSSwIfmPRxsylraE26seW5A-2gazFMINGjbzb4Ufh_Lebn-bRKu-xiOK244kSclJPfAo3GCCJZw0C7LODn9Nn_RbxlSDvPMqWS8YTWXvIeGVpWC48X4hdUY_4wSnlMOb1JACMeFoDN6WJjfwslteZ6psWOOfVgNNgDE8Ym8ng=s320" width="286" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEikPPPOuh-VOMUS5f_347bOf0pW6RuqEi7NSaj-FebDqMfrH2pgRx4vD2NLAcVDEB6GfxBeF8YrzogH32NPOpk690hNv6YO2n7ZB5dLKGcgpPT8oO3gQe-tlzq_neG65zvI_Pt8dQlljDehkhzBiAbr2Iew8DgfvMmagtBBLUIAs52R40TI3p-Xpu-scA=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEikPPPOuh-VOMUS5f_347bOf0pW6RuqEi7NSaj-FebDqMfrH2pgRx4vD2NLAcVDEB6GfxBeF8YrzogH32NPOpk690hNv6YO2n7ZB5dLKGcgpPT8oO3gQe-tlzq_neG65zvI_Pt8dQlljDehkhzBiAbr2Iew8DgfvMmagtBBLUIAs52R40TI3p-Xpu-scA=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Cope</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">His yard encompasses a small stream where he’s set up a number of feeders. </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Aside from great looks at Green-breasted mango and Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, Cope takes the time to walk guests through forested lowlands near his property. On such walks we’ve been treated to roosting owls and potoos and this was no exception.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjU6RKlpk_B8pd2Qmq7MK5Oenxs7kU2pNojQMyVJnl5ux5vo64YdtoG9KdV9eLaqa1gJYF4s2OK9icYNGryATT5LgHVp2c6YNmVU3KYYQKKb79rVvQGvPQuezRiGP79-m_v3REBmS1hEvDfLKr9v8sKYt-hk0XdWlCQbBr0afAwlRLa4JT4wCZy5BP8Jg=s1889" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1610" data-original-width="1889" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjU6RKlpk_B8pd2Qmq7MK5Oenxs7kU2pNojQMyVJnl5ux5vo64YdtoG9KdV9eLaqa1gJYF4s2OK9icYNGryATT5LgHVp2c6YNmVU3KYYQKKb79rVvQGvPQuezRiGP79-m_v3REBmS1hEvDfLKr9v8sKYt-hk0XdWlCQbBr0afAwlRLa4JT4wCZy5BP8Jg=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Collared Aracari</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWY2U1yfbH3sKH9arFNSeWnSlw6HdUiiJ7aX3iP7SjFF86du0sC0Z-cvXMDic6wb5kNB1STXczGW-CKUPIOgbCUKswqW3dAF6ohUtHbWIpxb3KqHo8Qt01ZsODvU-NHza-t_NS2lW09L_iwxIHxBhCz0GISh1t5iyRy2SYS8U8DFXCKkslrQQ3J1bgEQ=s3008" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3008" data-original-width="2223" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWY2U1yfbH3sKH9arFNSeWnSlw6HdUiiJ7aX3iP7SjFF86du0sC0Z-cvXMDic6wb5kNB1STXczGW-CKUPIOgbCUKswqW3dAF6ohUtHbWIpxb3KqHo8Qt01ZsODvU-NHza-t_NS2lW09L_iwxIHxBhCz0GISh1t5iyRy2SYS8U8DFXCKkslrQQ3J1bgEQ=s320" width="236" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Great Potoo</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXcCq3wBWCnBg6CIs8v1OaEykmxNE1RVan9x7LbM_-FJITKDkIv7qt05JhgSPu4RDGgQTiaf08oTbv4C_6KRW1orPCwtZaKbyiGlhLTNdvpCq8UQNL48-C_cg_FCDFZpphOa8DM-OC7Vy_zhwlUndtTG_l8RyjSZlai1GOlWQZfRmOOXkjqjneqmVc1A=s2164" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1954" data-original-width="2164" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXcCq3wBWCnBg6CIs8v1OaEykmxNE1RVan9x7LbM_-FJITKDkIv7qt05JhgSPu4RDGgQTiaf08oTbv4C_6KRW1orPCwtZaKbyiGlhLTNdvpCq8UQNL48-C_cg_FCDFZpphOa8DM-OC7Vy_zhwlUndtTG_l8RyjSZlai1GOlWQZfRmOOXkjqjneqmVc1A=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Bronze-tailed Plumleteer</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Stunning looks at a Great Potoo, Slaty-tailed Trogon, a Yellow-throated Toucan in the act of eating a Casque-headed Lizard, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, a nesting White-collared Manakin, Red-throated Ant-Tanager, and Piractic Flycatcher. A non-bird experience was Cope sharing a banana leaf with roosting tent bats. Unfortunately no roosting owls this time as the neighbor who’s property Cope has access too, had been logging recently and the owls were no where to be found.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjBBTltom_SVBky200syns0d7am4jQlpw647uuDo8iux_xh9DHyLANwqJ4edLJmK6lzshwdoOjSCpdwZbJcH6o2Vj57Fv06TAQx77zAWgBB-_fqAafLhCwPtG8opTAmCL3dmNeY00ewvqe1I4qju2O9cE53GQrzVNd2Y0M68cfEJ5vKV8J3sMdVnNZ0Vw=s3517" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3517" data-original-width="2447" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjBBTltom_SVBky200syns0d7am4jQlpw647uuDo8iux_xh9DHyLANwqJ4edLJmK6lzshwdoOjSCpdwZbJcH6o2Vj57Fv06TAQx77zAWgBB-_fqAafLhCwPtG8opTAmCL3dmNeY00ewvqe1I4qju2O9cE53GQrzVNd2Y0M68cfEJ5vKV8J3sMdVnNZ0Vw=s320" width="223" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Honduran White Tent Bats</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhrqUlO6XD3fPTimCvbp7mY6ECaXVUzqfRsLeZhAf7uXEQlpWtKHwsPGEo-89L-VTjM4TEIbEd8GzYVa0c-iPcEM5YMRlwpmCKD2mYvBcVRGVsYDv0IREVNM8MMI6YvBLUakd_bHGn7AmxK2HAlXGXzzBxXwhpFdofprHTkjzpBQAhJeC1PViPPPPGXWg=s3545" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3545" data-original-width="1465" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhrqUlO6XD3fPTimCvbp7mY6ECaXVUzqfRsLeZhAf7uXEQlpWtKHwsPGEo-89L-VTjM4TEIbEd8GzYVa0c-iPcEM5YMRlwpmCKD2mYvBcVRGVsYDv0IREVNM8MMI6YvBLUakd_bHGn7AmxK2HAlXGXzzBxXwhpFdofprHTkjzpBQAhJeC1PViPPPPGXWg=s320" width="132" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; text-align: left;">Casque-headed Lizard</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEitOtEiLg5UIjtbfQ1BCdZyBToSPqbzIf8sFqSiEjnJ7bYKElJ25ez6-snMUyE2tb9LlOIpy9wziUN2isWVa1LgfQ7nvJimG_L5D8r3lW-0WN5184ULEU5YtrFrKOkGZEv_hCZ2AHv1pp4EYl93tMUHOVnUwCvbAzko0qZjaDTun91P2PITAeYuywl-sg=s2035" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2035" data-original-width="1664" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEitOtEiLg5UIjtbfQ1BCdZyBToSPqbzIf8sFqSiEjnJ7bYKElJ25ez6-snMUyE2tb9LlOIpy9wziUN2isWVa1LgfQ7nvJimG_L5D8r3lW-0WN5184ULEU5YtrFrKOkGZEv_hCZ2AHv1pp4EYl93tMUHOVnUwCvbAzko0qZjaDTun91P2PITAeYuywl-sg=s320" width="262" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">latest Cope acquisition</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhAHZPN0dznD_tO61usqpqmRIvnNLmF7IuxpIAilwr6hnn-Fya9_A0I_92V-om_1RneFeitSsdwmsvTUDE4D8A-gnHXHvJ75PayGyzSr7XDxwa2e7Q_U8wasHzJiLxoJwR1PzU3bCWm5hHsPfqSe-LIBr37dRBQj_qpoV13USvXJKv8i5eegZ33ysTYgg=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhAHZPN0dznD_tO61usqpqmRIvnNLmF7IuxpIAilwr6hnn-Fya9_A0I_92V-om_1RneFeitSsdwmsvTUDE4D8A-gnHXHvJ75PayGyzSr7XDxwa2e7Q_U8wasHzJiLxoJwR1PzU3bCWm5hHsPfqSe-LIBr37dRBQj_qpoV13USvXJKv8i5eegZ33ysTYgg=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">the gang posing with Cope</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back to Cope’s for some coffee and refreshments and fantastic looks at Collared Aracari and Long-billed Hermit. A Lineated Woodpecker and a Casque-headed Lizard basking on a tree limb…plus some of us bought Cope’s artwork he was offering for sale.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Still on the road we made a short stop at the entrance to La Selva OTS Reserve where we birded the road up to the entrance. Gartered Trogon, Little Tinamou, Cocoa Woodcreeper and another King Vulture flyover.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">More roadside birding along a track near La Selva good for Great-green McCaws - we were not disappointed. Red-lored Parrots, a Laughing Falcon and a brief encounter with a White-throated Crake which was taking advantage of a puddle on the road. Usually heard but not seen. Black-striped Sparrow, Crimson-fronted Parakeet and Gray-capped Flycatcher added to the list.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">During our second night at Rainforest Adventures late in the afternoon two of us decided to take the night walk tour offered by the local guide. This turned out to be one of the trip highlights. The amount of activity at night was amazing - amphibians, insects, and nocturnal mammals. Glass frogs, an entire ant colony surviving on a leaf, and a beautiful male fer de lance which we never see during the day.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgfstQ0OMcK_MxM07gpL6sp-MlrWVgTemktOT9FW5sCj50Xu1vWaMDnsxWrlEaI4KGVyit0gsIRK9aHFoURo1SrdK4Lluvx0pjALy02NGc59NdeLIv8z01ekufgfHkfLnLEXDWvzBAjm-ThnW63QB1KxQVpK0oBtmPmiURD3CJAXM5Q8HnQjGhcIWDAQQ=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgfstQ0OMcK_MxM07gpL6sp-MlrWVgTemktOT9FW5sCj50Xu1vWaMDnsxWrlEaI4KGVyit0gsIRK9aHFoURo1SrdK4Lluvx0pjALy02NGc59NdeLIv8z01ekufgfHkfLnLEXDWvzBAjm-ThnW63QB1KxQVpK0oBtmPmiURD3CJAXM5Q8HnQjGhcIWDAQQ=s320" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiYaH6DgqwgqWOqO0wu4stAktV0IhnrgMqetZ9t-_zseUjdtABRxYtmINAeUgOqJTxdhVy_oO5LJjRXY63aKpx6wPo7H9apTBpo4mUWKWm83cdUNfVSClgZjA8ekWIw5vCAdGrOlv8wb14bq5VBu-pReMAd0qfasP4I1sr2No_mB-WDPojHZc-Px_Wckg=s3900" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2392" data-original-width="3900" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiYaH6DgqwgqWOqO0wu4stAktV0IhnrgMqetZ9t-_zseUjdtABRxYtmINAeUgOqJTxdhVy_oO5LJjRXY63aKpx6wPo7H9apTBpo4mUWKWm83cdUNfVSClgZjA8ekWIw5vCAdGrOlv8wb14bq5VBu-pReMAd0qfasP4I1sr2No_mB-WDPojHZc-Px_Wckg=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhM77Clso6zF_Vb0GGOy2GtSs3ptib6VutvQuKn5oSRHjxVk36CdMF5aGAWk0sC34-Vx9Iu5lX-2nAtU-6zG3h-fCdD3JvnFB3eGqHlvPcZJfBGKq_C5YEjuI1q1HFrYmxkz4EgWvpFINuhFd83GOY3k_8FxLYZTA9Ak8CNN2NXn5b2YirAP14fSH_zdw=s3892" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3892" data-original-width="2539" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhM77Clso6zF_Vb0GGOy2GtSs3ptib6VutvQuKn5oSRHjxVk36CdMF5aGAWk0sC34-Vx9Iu5lX-2nAtU-6zG3h-fCdD3JvnFB3eGqHlvPcZJfBGKq_C5YEjuI1q1HFrYmxkz4EgWvpFINuhFd83GOY3k_8FxLYZTA9Ak8CNN2NXn5b2YirAP14fSH_zdw=s320" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgI-UNzpTE7hTFyg_m28drQ1MGMBVOs87OwF9f8Oq-mGfj59ziN3Q3pZ_LfXVcJbeOjaWkIUKJRmej4jxYmgPfGKPoWhbWlwejThJ3Un01flYaylYo7a3RtpDi0U3zr2yl2ajsfuzEzfO7uvzqhljLRqzHZSYJJ4KfJHHXAg3dGqS02edfnCWBdRLBkdA=s2308" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2183" data-original-width="2308" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgI-UNzpTE7hTFyg_m28drQ1MGMBVOs87OwF9f8Oq-mGfj59ziN3Q3pZ_LfXVcJbeOjaWkIUKJRmej4jxYmgPfGKPoWhbWlwejThJ3Un01flYaylYo7a3RtpDi0U3zr2yl2ajsfuzEzfO7uvzqhljLRqzHZSYJJ4KfJHHXAg3dGqS02edfnCWBdRLBkdA=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The morning we were slated for our aerial tour, the local tapir along with an offspring emerged from the forest. First time we can recall ever seeing a tapir!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRhpJaxAes23KIpuf6xhp8e1k8teQxS4HwBCeuQMuRk2Ff7vyQcQetYttZe2Uh6x_9gL76AeuavmO84cJdOYm8rPfQE5aaU3zhmYEkLIMdt-OKoigToY58mDjy2EwINvMF_fpBrJTfnVUaViUnc0dgTUsjpUREl3gAPNazPEnD59jdyyov6o2GVM4PDQ=s5184" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="5184" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRhpJaxAes23KIpuf6xhp8e1k8teQxS4HwBCeuQMuRk2Ff7vyQcQetYttZe2Uh6x_9gL76AeuavmO84cJdOYm8rPfQE5aaU3zhmYEkLIMdt-OKoigToY58mDjy2EwINvMF_fpBrJTfnVUaViUnc0dgTUsjpUREl3gAPNazPEnD59jdyyov6o2GVM4PDQ=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Baird's tapir (photo: John Bruder)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">We were scheduled to do two rides on the canopy tour gondolas but owing to rain conditions we were lucky to get just one. It was a bonus having park guides on the tour as they would stop and start the gondolas whenever they wished allowing us better looks.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjD-Ws9MdFGggGrU_NH8v21pWAsnQs_9J_Y4EiaWoclUAPmK6VEE7UIL90sBMC5KYaiGN0ty9mcxCEC20CpD2OKaQa9O7cj13eQiqS1QfqwNjqc-AfCK5_m1oMPDWMjFlQhVqywASvfHAskP-ANcyQ4J05TGUdLWFveOcXFbVjoSTOl1d59LnKv3HWdiA=s1822" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1342" data-original-width="1822" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjD-Ws9MdFGggGrU_NH8v21pWAsnQs_9J_Y4EiaWoclUAPmK6VEE7UIL90sBMC5KYaiGN0ty9mcxCEC20CpD2OKaQa9O7cj13eQiqS1QfqwNjqc-AfCK5_m1oMPDWMjFlQhVqywASvfHAskP-ANcyQ4J05TGUdLWFveOcXFbVjoSTOl1d59LnKv3HWdiA=s320" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhR9S7r-x_UwcSGGbJDCDemLRRrIbOgi3vxm6McvbzTEKc7KNB0qBE5ej4boRdQIKZ1p0hCjIL_iMbrrwUt2tUCxOPz_6Q0DUOBYR-xlOP_OvXb1G0MAdONV1okX-QgeqO1bbPa1hdFbikGSPAHGubQgisg3MKrPwLu1J8agve3U_ay4lfrvbxAqzkDjg=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhR9S7r-x_UwcSGGbJDCDemLRRrIbOgi3vxm6McvbzTEKc7KNB0qBE5ej4boRdQIKZ1p0hCjIL_iMbrrwUt2tUCxOPz_6Q0DUOBYR-xlOP_OvXb1G0MAdONV1okX-QgeqO1bbPa1hdFbikGSPAHGubQgisg3MKrPwLu1J8agve3U_ay4lfrvbxAqzkDjg=s320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjWvubx1In-Cak7s9NnMOg5cnRovG8lqrwLG_URzsoxuZtvmf7UvrtzlMjBCrhgnmXXS0cM5lmXIw9dCHpOxHHpKCkQxADZNjfOfGjGStvr0yw-rgfJg-L-wji8s_4I1qMFzZJU8Ghj7RSM1hgbgxogXcqW3kNT2Q3tJk9VusGGacf0xlCpzyi9AnpsxA=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjWvubx1In-Cak7s9NnMOg5cnRovG8lqrwLG_URzsoxuZtvmf7UvrtzlMjBCrhgnmXXS0cM5lmXIw9dCHpOxHHpKCkQxADZNjfOfGjGStvr0yw-rgfJg-L-wji8s_4I1qMFzZJU8Ghj7RSM1hgbgxogXcqW3kNT2Q3tJk9VusGGacf0xlCpzyi9AnpsxA=s320" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhcVD4UBv5Jo-BY-05P6ktCHnNMNcTxkCO4kKmavJbIp6Ouqp_bDYArK3aKSyJRw1sVaplBRWJ6v58hOLxl0KtCdkMwdJbbbUIxulNHaw2NipMwUyjMj1eOlWx9ph1OsI8FaruydNj_HDZfUFQje3PD15vNFrs0cG2S6IIC3fzIz9TlAGLtRFvg9IBpKA=s3088" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2320" data-original-width="3088" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhcVD4UBv5Jo-BY-05P6ktCHnNMNcTxkCO4kKmavJbIp6Ouqp_bDYArK3aKSyJRw1sVaplBRWJ6v58hOLxl0KtCdkMwdJbbbUIxulNHaw2NipMwUyjMj1eOlWx9ph1OsI8FaruydNj_HDZfUFQje3PD15vNFrs0cG2S6IIC3fzIz9TlAGLtRFvg9IBpKA=s320" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">2021 was the first year following the outbreak of COVID that we experienced having to take a COVID test prior to returning-to the United Stets as dictated by the CDC. Richard had already scoped out a clinic near the hotel where we would spend out last night. Returning to San Jose for our COVID test, we arrived at the clinic which advertised no waiting for afternoon tests but alas, discovered that in fact a reservation was required. Richard spoke with staff who guaranteed we would get tested first thing the next morning. Suddenly we found ourselves with a whole afternoon of free time…so what better way to spend it than to keep birding!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Driving to higher elevations we stopped for lunch Poasito for lunch at Freddo Fresas, a restaurant we have stopped at on prior trips as the road it is on is also the road to Poas Volcano. Locally owned and operated, they specialize in all manner of deserts involving strawberries.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg3EFTX_cpqQy1RKrfn0PQOW-CUYYWKfuRUBCGMRD7UNV239iI8I8G-AvqnUqkTO_Dnw27_1KhTj6ZA1GUMEnUFEw209lUIkY7nvSbAR4bFdlrjXBwAAS0sJtorBAAJSQBtedSOrN4Puw18BhF-kZ29IPVe9tRuBgr9nuqSWeUj3Gaov4swvquu5uXbvA=s852" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg3EFTX_cpqQy1RKrfn0PQOW-CUYYWKfuRUBCGMRD7UNV239iI8I8G-AvqnUqkTO_Dnw27_1KhTj6ZA1GUMEnUFEw209lUIkY7nvSbAR4bFdlrjXBwAAS0sJtorBAAJSQBtedSOrN4Puw18BhF-kZ29IPVe9tRuBgr9nuqSWeUj3Gaov4swvquu5uXbvA=s320" width="240" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Continuing further we stopped at another favorite roadside cafe “Galeria de Colibri y Soda Chinchona. But not to eat - this spot features loads of feeding stations attracting a wide variety of birds. Great looks at Coppery-headed Emerald, Black-bellied Hummingbird, Violet Sabrewing as they zoomed to and fro, often within inches of our heads. Also more good looks at Crimson-collared Tanager and Cinnamon-bellied Saltator.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTeZ2jczivmR6HqjPF_nYqZ07FdnlPd9C47yWOyfnk-GDwg1gXM2fd5woG2A20PN_dmrnaL1eBq5Wp6NnMVVzUtsCiwmAJpe6gIjhBPFIiYF-1Fre01szfyQrlP8Sq-zUqKas-PyM2adY81Xce4u4wbb4BZdyVwsAOS8w46tbt-qqekhXefG-B6xrV4g=s1723" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1723" data-original-width="1556" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTeZ2jczivmR6HqjPF_nYqZ07FdnlPd9C47yWOyfnk-GDwg1gXM2fd5woG2A20PN_dmrnaL1eBq5Wp6NnMVVzUtsCiwmAJpe6gIjhBPFIiYF-1Fre01szfyQrlP8Sq-zUqKas-PyM2adY81Xce4u4wbb4BZdyVwsAOS8w46tbt-qqekhXefG-B6xrV4g=s320" width="289" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Crimson-collared Tanager (photo: John Bruder)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgcIudMHyvzzf3Id7BPlOypjeJYcw2CU0OXe471cC1DVd83_Zr7XT5EoUo4Hc676CwRlgIT62sAbLAtKpZVDjqbYKuTayBpF04dym1rrPdEDuXKJyPAFr1fIi0R9Jh_JoeaBKhwgm0bYsstdtKtF-YD6dzT-MhR3Qe57dxBuVstokCU4-rR77y1-BVMww=s1606" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1580" data-original-width="1606" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgcIudMHyvzzf3Id7BPlOypjeJYcw2CU0OXe471cC1DVd83_Zr7XT5EoUo4Hc676CwRlgIT62sAbLAtKpZVDjqbYKuTayBpF04dym1rrPdEDuXKJyPAFr1fIi0R9Jh_JoeaBKhwgm0bYsstdtKtF-YD6dzT-MhR3Qe57dxBuVstokCU4-rR77y1-BVMww=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Black-bellied Hummingbird</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhE8LjQev0skx9VY3cSH59Tj8jtRxBrwgKpcwxpxjWlQ297uoeNfXrWEB9UD_rZybPQSk5KtvRlxb2ejTHV2tpWXwUOIsiFll5q2hz_vPXXVIj2-BjlDjXW_VrX8o4Pgt4RU4NF_qKKnQna4A9fU40__hVbBAooxbvjU69qdEbLzSczt6a3dxi13FSKJg=s2343" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2072" data-original-width="2343" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhE8LjQev0skx9VY3cSH59Tj8jtRxBrwgKpcwxpxjWlQ297uoeNfXrWEB9UD_rZybPQSk5KtvRlxb2ejTHV2tpWXwUOIsiFll5q2hz_vPXXVIj2-BjlDjXW_VrX8o4Pgt4RU4NF_qKKnQna4A9fU40__hVbBAooxbvjU69qdEbLzSczt6a3dxi13FSKJg=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Speckled Hummingbird</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJKSymymUgX3Lvjwl2jkkgOMueh3cliWaZRJCmW_v-mFczTTH0y7sJsGsN2C7pO_tAp2Sq3RTpyosMMwc7azpxrv9ipZCQEUhj2JEIJbebd70jWdmgi8wcPN8-1sKcIuIYaTa_wQ6Tl0i8WhRjJ8B-XmGtJdNoibpZzjVem1e4KEjWRK5-CorCQuR5_Q=s2258" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2258" data-original-width="1608" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJKSymymUgX3Lvjwl2jkkgOMueh3cliWaZRJCmW_v-mFczTTH0y7sJsGsN2C7pO_tAp2Sq3RTpyosMMwc7azpxrv9ipZCQEUhj2JEIJbebd70jWdmgi8wcPN8-1sKcIuIYaTa_wQ6Tl0i8WhRjJ8B-XmGtJdNoibpZzjVem1e4KEjWRK5-CorCQuR5_Q=s320" width="228" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Green-crowned Brilliant</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">By late afternoon, the last official day of the tour, we had returned to the Hotel Buena Vista where we bid Didier farewell, enjoyed several rounds of adult and enjoyed our next to last dinner before retiring.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZprfJiCdHsZP0rb-QhViXKHapOd9l58OgFNGy-Z2ah5qKrFG-sfZu8Yr9797bIFVspwqzEMgDDWXL9JVd1O5A3jwr995vQPwkaPT5tW0SexIU3rfBnCLxB8GF_VCfxNxS_y6hqIuKjGyKiagp6LP0btXlmHP3ZA2Zq6VWzHvOKjniWtNu4oce8N8KEw=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZprfJiCdHsZP0rb-QhViXKHapOd9l58OgFNGy-Z2ah5qKrFG-sfZu8Yr9797bIFVspwqzEMgDDWXL9JVd1O5A3jwr995vQPwkaPT5tW0SexIU3rfBnCLxB8GF_VCfxNxS_y6hqIuKjGyKiagp6LP0btXlmHP3ZA2Zq6VWzHvOKjniWtNu4oce8N8KEw=s320" width="240" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Up early the next morning we shuttled to the nearby clinic (conveniently located in a shopping mall) our COVID tests. Within a few hours our results returned - everyone tested negative which is what we had all anticipated.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi90EPeJ8L9X1FC9sHB1Agxe3Ph1fMv6FZKdtx5UKkXGt1Vyd1ihtzwRCLGwOAUT9BPkMKf9VB-N-uUcllgq1y8TmadUYukwDXIFgKxGv_iTBBWA9tvrM0tyVnDIUalApaZS3LiKUEo_zctumpRJVa0xcumQQ8ViCoDF4H5wz8CmZWXFX_rX3Gqlf_tPQ=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi90EPeJ8L9X1FC9sHB1Agxe3Ph1fMv6FZKdtx5UKkXGt1Vyd1ihtzwRCLGwOAUT9BPkMKf9VB-N-uUcllgq1y8TmadUYukwDXIFgKxGv_iTBBWA9tvrM0tyVnDIUalApaZS3LiKUEo_zctumpRJVa0xcumQQ8ViCoDF4H5wz8CmZWXFX_rX3Gqlf_tPQ=s320" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJEkGbrEgQr2G3tYOW5NWgesZfd7Pb5saiBcghWU-stCCN9Tmzpcve9swNHmKRbNn53dJbplNgt5fmVoq1A0LXOwaWGML1U3C-4XkjMeirCBnlTFmhLmSX748TqfsaHZmrQL4MMt9R30U4SkOCD8ijdFjCoC_2JKHJkaqLDUr9C23ZmTsZU7W69oEkQA=s3460" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3460" data-original-width="2796" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJEkGbrEgQr2G3tYOW5NWgesZfd7Pb5saiBcghWU-stCCN9Tmzpcve9swNHmKRbNn53dJbplNgt5fmVoq1A0LXOwaWGML1U3C-4XkjMeirCBnlTFmhLmSX748TqfsaHZmrQL4MMt9R30U4SkOCD8ijdFjCoC_2JKHJkaqLDUr9C23ZmTsZU7W69oEkQA=s320" width="259" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">t<span style="font-family: helvetica;">here are times when being<br />negative is a good thing</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Well before the trip everyone had elected to stay an extra day so this extra day worked out to our advantage given we needed our COVID tests. The rest of the day was spent birding the hotel grounds, packing, and enjoying more poolside drinks before our farewell dinner.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgDafCmz7zXoWiTGeOad2CbZjfTf7gU3ydt5-ZPXa_86tzcmF1xq5mAKG4Pw5wPm64G8u2uSA0YfM6qsoJTQZQHB8Ui37gPm995olA23KU1KsaCY1m9nnqRbwgR4cMNSOLka6SonqYavF4VVx6MSJRGremf4uePHe3S6OdlIwp0MvWdSlS8OUxwHH__6Q=s3307" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3307" data-original-width="2795" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgDafCmz7zXoWiTGeOad2CbZjfTf7gU3ydt5-ZPXa_86tzcmF1xq5mAKG4Pw5wPm64G8u2uSA0YfM6qsoJTQZQHB8Ui37gPm995olA23KU1KsaCY1m9nnqRbwgR4cMNSOLka6SonqYavF4VVx6MSJRGremf4uePHe3S6OdlIwp0MvWdSlS8OUxwHH__6Q=s320" width="270" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiwDRjLvsCjVYgasKFTSR6ryaNF0ZqRaKaDo1VYUt0tvHCZtSKbb4LnZiZe6y8G8k_pLtu_KhvzsD0lZnuDOUXbKfDjaJueONJYZlrCAEqPzW7FJMPq4fWdZe4llBbKF9IP_ZU70zHGtKd-MrF0mBGKrKle629Kv6pzeF7k7FIgTtbCMLI9ndzexRLAog=s2249" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2249" data-original-width="2225" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiwDRjLvsCjVYgasKFTSR6ryaNF0ZqRaKaDo1VYUt0tvHCZtSKbb4LnZiZe6y8G8k_pLtu_KhvzsD0lZnuDOUXbKfDjaJueONJYZlrCAEqPzW7FJMPq4fWdZe4llBbKF9IP_ZU70zHGtKd-MrF0mBGKrKle629Kv6pzeF7k7FIgTtbCMLI9ndzexRLAog=s320" width="317" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhG3o3ngrPPGw6mzRMJMXdobEzx9zX3xlQFG72nFRkKCx90rhugHGAbXL5SMiqvB3DAnEQ2n3D-BrlP_sc5kCZavhyF7HJvu57apuvY1M4oEQk7AH0YOWd30lKeUMb354iX-OARtPj5TIZ6wjlm1RdLekEmcumFcciLlLhc-ZYrusNybrJpxtQzVm-Qmw=s3236" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2872" data-original-width="3236" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhG3o3ngrPPGw6mzRMJMXdobEzx9zX3xlQFG72nFRkKCx90rhugHGAbXL5SMiqvB3DAnEQ2n3D-BrlP_sc5kCZavhyF7HJvu57apuvY1M4oEQk7AH0YOWd30lKeUMb354iX-OARtPj5TIZ6wjlm1RdLekEmcumFcciLlLhc-ZYrusNybrJpxtQzVm-Qmw=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiyIx7ej0BAypr6Qu3HiodHIc5xp9_x7BoHyqkXzGBHmhsoOI3hRMFeGHV_eexQyn37a6SXbF-b7DISYz8XqiYZujoxsH0O1SGyYWOreyDH2xJxprHj1GipkieZTqEzeaLC2UwoK5pn7WTtP_lbylHf1Mhjyi4bWmZAFo_rFcHeTH5RHXFeX2D7HBtpFw=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiyIx7ej0BAypr6Qu3HiodHIc5xp9_x7BoHyqkXzGBHmhsoOI3hRMFeGHV_eexQyn37a6SXbF-b7DISYz8XqiYZujoxsH0O1SGyYWOreyDH2xJxprHj1GipkieZTqEzeaLC2UwoK5pn7WTtP_lbylHf1Mhjyi4bWmZAFo_rFcHeTH5RHXFeX2D7HBtpFw=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhes-12p0eBnF5jGuiMRoYz1BVjfwo-EdClNmzu9QHEjyq32Gp4lvj-yxwSRn0Un-nNXMRX7ux9U3GiaNNjLchq1C9XCokpUAmj5cMSTd_4dRcvbJiW3liRjLHvYASJb90xWxP7W4nGEI2NSRtvpR3NfaDyeFJyBe-HinTowsYYghTobvMe5et9RHo-sw=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhes-12p0eBnF5jGuiMRoYz1BVjfwo-EdClNmzu9QHEjyq32Gp4lvj-yxwSRn0Un-nNXMRX7ux9U3GiaNNjLchq1C9XCokpUAmj5cMSTd_4dRcvbJiW3liRjLHvYASJb90xWxP7W4nGEI2NSRtvpR3NfaDyeFJyBe-HinTowsYYghTobvMe5et9RHo-sw=s320" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;">All in all another successful tour. Many happy memories as we returned to the U.S. and anticipating our next tour which would take place in 2022 - a return to Colombia.</span></div></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhVn9HNYA_k_Tt0oxMqYorhAX7Dn3vV5s64Ht9dCZ_nrzGKWusoeDYNwSc56tGQpQVtv7YR5qAS-bASkeCXrbej5LKSC-Vnn4lzy_uWpPReyLmtfX_-eg5-nvR2znOqmKI96su5Uyv7oVY9n8PIvCYiZXKcPJLHHH_gmQXMh6bZuflz0ckvynOe7ivgFw=s1767" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1767" data-original-width="1102" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhVn9HNYA_k_Tt0oxMqYorhAX7Dn3vV5s64Ht9dCZ_nrzGKWusoeDYNwSc56tGQpQVtv7YR5qAS-bASkeCXrbej5LKSC-Vnn4lzy_uWpPReyLmtfX_-eg5-nvR2znOqmKI96su5Uyv7oVY9n8PIvCYiZXKcPJLHHH_gmQXMh6bZuflz0ckvynOe7ivgFw=s320" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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font-size: medium;"><b> </b></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXtWrRgaRvea9a23B8RiK3l_2f3mUOWy973i-hbOHeT9uAsltWoktgaPk1lPTA-rVPGRhSEV1Qmo_eW99DsXiQMQizS8DOIE-NJnrSKu2lwb9iLQnAg90hwnZujK6A3UQmE9sDwvrSfkV/s2008/170545946_5574660949218665_7428871354390956816_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1408" data-original-width="2008" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXtWrRgaRvea9a23B8RiK3l_2f3mUOWy973i-hbOHeT9uAsltWoktgaPk1lPTA-rVPGRhSEV1Qmo_eW99DsXiQMQizS8DOIE-NJnrSKu2lwb9iLQnAg90hwnZujK6A3UQmE9sDwvrSfkV/w400-h280/170545946_5574660949218665_7428871354390956816_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Rio General, Talari Mountain Lodge </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Leaving Danta Corcovado behind we headed up out of the lowlands making our way toward the Valley El General with a few birding stops along the way plus a stop for lunch, reaching our next overnight <a href="http://www.talari.co.cr" target="_blank">Talari Mountain Lodge</a>, by late afternoon.</span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Talari isn’t one of our favorite lodges. Truth be told, the rooms have not been maintained well and the place overall has a worn feeling. That said, it presented us with a convenient overnight and the owner was most accommodating. We suspect that business has been slack, even before COVID, so funds to maintain have been sparse which has likely been frustrating to the owner and staff.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qhtRlwl0beqt2jmZMreYCTYoOknhyojT8VXUXC9asxCrRapq4-j3hcNfdMDmYjEiel712IWlh073ASN-Wp0fpV60oQxb4VuBC2w9zQ04n5HBotqdPJ5yRdnnZdog0mL7fQDyrGrdPXUE/s1944/170746758_5574663215885105_5088965415772159142_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="1663" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qhtRlwl0beqt2jmZMreYCTYoOknhyojT8VXUXC9asxCrRapq4-j3hcNfdMDmYjEiel712IWlh073ASN-Wp0fpV60oQxb4VuBC2w9zQ04n5HBotqdPJ5yRdnnZdog0mL7fQDyrGrdPXUE/w343-h400/170746758_5574663215885105_5088965415772159142_n.jpg" width="343" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Yellow-headed Caracara</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Birding around the lodge had been fine in past stays and this was no exception. Gray-headed Chachalaca, Long-billed Starthroat, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, great closeups of Yellow-headed Caracara, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, and Isthmian Wren, to name a few.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YKFUl2pBihU76Mrd0hSJt9nNQkZp41jyquRLD4s3qh7XvuYRLAbU7drDx8TTwgYYg8y0crHyWTG55TWHZPF9MlkhCiEbDesM1rtUn9qnhYUzylP5dSherZAcv0-DQlsY-0Po3S62kJyo/s2048/IMG_0693.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YKFUl2pBihU76Mrd0hSJt9nNQkZp41jyquRLD4s3qh7XvuYRLAbU7drDx8TTwgYYg8y0crHyWTG55TWHZPF9MlkhCiEbDesM1rtUn9qnhYUzylP5dSherZAcv0-DQlsY-0Po3S62kJyo/w300-h400/IMG_0693.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Lynn and Vickie at Talari</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">During our stay the owner went over the top to drive to one of Costa Rica’s National University campuses in San Isidro El General to check on the status of a bird we were hoping to see as well as inform Richard of what the group would need to do to comply with campus COVID protocols. We were very grateful for his taking the time.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM54hiu_9juvdsrXaqidNfhz9Y3MRJrhP2uPkqXGSmP_k9ctfLqHYx5Y_g0KPmtL2F3FLYx_x0YIwSMuij1jSqr3D7AiBsYWGQdOsj8ie3vkQkSiA6l1GWR1-lIOe8cH_JT6KugZlYiyK2/s2048/IMG_5846.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM54hiu_9juvdsrXaqidNfhz9Y3MRJrhP2uPkqXGSmP_k9ctfLqHYx5Y_g0KPmtL2F3FLYx_x0YIwSMuij1jSqr3D7AiBsYWGQdOsj8ie3vkQkSiA6l1GWR1-lIOe8cH_JT6KugZlYiyK2/w400-h300/IMG_5846.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Russ our official guardian of the luggage!</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">After leaving Talari the next morning we made our way to the campus where our temperatures were taken, hand sanitizers provided and with masks in place, we walked the grounds in search of Turquoise Cotinga. After about a half hour of scouring the surrounding trees, we finally got good looks - albeit distant looks - at this electric blue colored member of the cotinga family.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk4ifdEOL9WxLHcK4GamlNAoOPGQrPndp6bL23AGdg-w4Npm_XQWy8hn7yBInSeFxhHkxz6HvylnJewa9pE8qXdOkm5WOp_hduZrVjXVmbshVBSsm47_6Eskqg1JO4kQdw9r91RTTmKxH0/s1079/125-Turquoise-Cotinga.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="825" data-original-width="1079" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk4ifdEOL9WxLHcK4GamlNAoOPGQrPndp6bL23AGdg-w4Npm_XQWy8hn7yBInSeFxhHkxz6HvylnJewa9pE8qXdOkm5WOp_hduZrVjXVmbshVBSsm47_6Eskqg1JO4kQdw9r91RTTmKxH0/w400-h306/125-Turquoise-Cotinga.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Turquoise Cotinga - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Our next overnight lodging, according to the original agenda, was to be at <a href="https://www.toucanetlodge.com" target="_blank">El Toucanet Lodge</a>. This would have been a new lodge we’d not yet visited. However, after following a number of inquires about our reservation and hearing nothing from the lodge, Richard finally learned that the lodge was not in operation at the time due to COVID. But not to worry. Our reservation had been handed off to their sister lodge, <a href="https://www.paraisoquetzal.com/en/index.php" target="_blank">Paraiso Quetzal Lodge</a>. Ah, but we did worry. During our 2019 stay we had not been entirely happy with our stay Paraiso Quetzal Lodge. The food was fine and we had killer looks at Fiery-throated Hummingbirds from the dining room deck. But our room was cold and lacked heat in the cramped bathroom.</span></p>
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<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29;">Carol asked Richard to see if we might get booked into Hotel Savegre. Ordinarily Savegre has a year or two wait list for groups but with COVID, things had changed. Savegre immediately responded to say <span style="caret-color: rgb(55, 47, 41);">they, yes, they</span> had rooms available. Thankfully, Savegre it was was.</span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29;"><br /></span></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHjsijML1n42pR10BCdFfMNhkUZsHsla-vm3dzcQkr8FRtuS1iRbydDJ_tc8HofI2eLjSVtfvF-e-sCHW4W0N4UFlKGsbj8jH6X-jXCeaa8giq8aw0ILRGNHII2uKTtBSyaBVBs5Hox_T/s2048/129b-Red-headed-barbet-%2528m%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2008" data-original-width="2048" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHjsijML1n42pR10BCdFfMNhkUZsHsla-vm3dzcQkr8FRtuS1iRbydDJ_tc8HofI2eLjSVtfvF-e-sCHW4W0N4UFlKGsbj8jH6X-jXCeaa8giq8aw0ILRGNHII2uKTtBSyaBVBs5Hox_T/w400-h393/129b-Red-headed-barbet-%2528m%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstdCyNo1omK9v0qMT3eF11uKL1jxX-07r-zoQx-gcVy7QYSNVZngl2nstNqerado6SzRT9zKZ7a5pM9_Gw9QPqz_CDTQg3YKbV4ThpC021tcJ-kIKYnJKussnCztt_PNyWuTMx_5gXAkB/s2048/129c-Red-headed-Barbet-%2528f%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1567" data-original-width="2048" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstdCyNo1omK9v0qMT3eF11uKL1jxX-07r-zoQx-gcVy7QYSNVZngl2nstNqerado6SzRT9zKZ7a5pM9_Gw9QPqz_CDTQg3YKbV4ThpC021tcJ-kIKYnJKussnCztt_PNyWuTMx_5gXAkB/w400-h306/129c-Red-headed-Barbet-%2528f%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Red-headed Barbet male and female - photos John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Of course a few stops along the way, the first being <a href="http://www.bosquedeltolomuco.com" target="_blank">Bosque Del Tolomuco</a>, a small retreat located in the heart of the Talamanca Mountains in the Southern Pacific of Costa Rica. We’ve stopped here on prior trips and looked forward to birding the grounds. We were not disappointed. White-throated Mountain-gem, Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, White-tailed Emerald, Red-headed Barbet, Mistletoe Tyrannulet, Rufous-breasted Wren, close looks at Flame-colored Tanager, Chestnut-colored Brushfinch, and a highlight of the stop, an active Olivaceous Piculet nest cavity.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9VKMHkaCEtSgbGHCSJTHUlLGzZ8_O5U3jpEqVyeqg5EL0H6Rv1vyFMMm683AOoR5U6Ob5vCfWVoySbvL9_ahmv9dUYgIyfQnypGrOhhOWWXMXQkqYIIc2ms6RpgWSpdyeXHqiItKdGSt/s1864/169856088_5571976589487101_4582057680639937080_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1864" data-original-width="1577" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9VKMHkaCEtSgbGHCSJTHUlLGzZ8_O5U3jpEqVyeqg5EL0H6Rv1vyFMMm683AOoR5U6Ob5vCfWVoySbvL9_ahmv9dUYgIyfQnypGrOhhOWWXMXQkqYIIc2ms6RpgWSpdyeXHqiItKdGSt/w339-h400/169856088_5571976589487101_4582057680639937080_n.jpg" width="339" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Olivaceous Piculet</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLaIBSwHhjmkuaK5cdMXySD1eOWaBGjEHT0hcAYBOrB0Y1Y5sVMNP16kiyYeKoL_HoT_r_n-ec_MT8I3BgITHPfQgiCMOSfNxoL4YIthXJTNCQXBFRaUToljZjXAWvqKaJ-9VtUJnYMtv/s2023/170998980_5571974872820606_2734743972930384883_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2023" data-original-width="1965" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLaIBSwHhjmkuaK5cdMXySD1eOWaBGjEHT0hcAYBOrB0Y1Y5sVMNP16kiyYeKoL_HoT_r_n-ec_MT8I3BgITHPfQgiCMOSfNxoL4YIthXJTNCQXBFRaUToljZjXAWvqKaJ-9VtUJnYMtv/w389-h400/170998980_5571974872820606_2734743972930384883_n.jpg" width="389" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Flame-colored Tanager</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #372f29; font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(55, 47, 41);">In hind sight,</span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29;"> we can heartily recommend a stay at Bosque Del Tolomuco for individuals or couples touring Costa Rica. The place lacks the number of rooms to <span style="caret-color: rgb(55, 47, 41);">accommodate</span> a group of our size.</span></span></p>
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<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29;">A few more roadside stops including one well known birding hot spot, the roadside restaurant, <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1076295-d4604212-Reviews-La_Georgina_Restaraunt_Hotel-San_Gerardo_de_Dota_Province_of_San_Jose.html" target="_blank">La Georgina</a>. Pulling up to the front door we were disappointed to see the closed sign! Apparently the restaurant, due to COVID, had reduce the number of days it was open. However, as we started to pull away, the owner, who happened to be out in the yard, saw the coaster, recognized Richard, and warmly invited us to come inside to view the hummingbird feeders which the owner had <span style="caret-color: rgb(55, 47, 41);">dutifully maintained</span> at the rear windows of the restaurant.</span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29;"><br /></span></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1D28NJYLsLZnA8hseHB5ke11U9UOAgCpWOP17B2RxkqITf4Td18AOXQhk4Hki-I8Qp0_hueJdxOS5CBdo5Nx9JiV3w1OB3DGb0p_Yg8PZ7dg6k3Pqxl0N0s9HQ8PfauNOwSMgEtPZCqAj/s1714/170516393_5575036509181109_6929896086886295800_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1714" data-original-width="1276" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1D28NJYLsLZnA8hseHB5ke11U9UOAgCpWOP17B2RxkqITf4Td18AOXQhk4Hki-I8Qp0_hueJdxOS5CBdo5Nx9JiV3w1OB3DGb0p_Yg8PZ7dg6k3Pqxl0N0s9HQ8PfauNOwSMgEtPZCqAj/w298-h400/170516393_5575036509181109_6929896086886295800_n.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Fiery-throated Hummingbird<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Lucky for us because this is one of the best stops to view Fiery-throated Hummingbirds up close. We also got our first looks at a few higher elevation bird species such as Volcano Hummingbird, Talamanca Hummingbird (formerly known as Magnificent Hummingbird before the species was split), Sooty Thrush and Large-footed Finch.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Before diving down into the valley where Hotel Savegre is located we went further up to the communication towers located atop Cerro de la Muerte, our highest point on the tour. Here we hoped to find a few specialties: Volcano Junco and Timberline Wren. Alas, the weather atop Cerro was disagreeable. We've been there when it's been sunny and clear as well as socked in with clouds and rain. Unfortunately it was the latter. But birding from the comfort of our coaster we still managed to catch sight of a few juncos as well as Black-billed Nightingale Thrush.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Over the years the road down to <a href="https://www.savegre.com" target="_blank">Hotel Savegre</a>, nestled in the San Geraldo de Dota Valley has been improved adding paved surfaces in some areas. But it’s still a steep descent with wonderful views of the valley. Birding from the coaster we added Black Guan and Mountain Thrush.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Our first visit to Savegre Lodge was in 2004. Since then we’ve returned in ’07, ’15, and 2017. Over this time the lodge has changed both its name and has added several new buildings including a spa, meeting rooms, and a new bar area. But that didn’t prepare us for the change we found this time: the reception area and dining area had been completely remodeled and expanded in November 2020 during a time when the hotel was closed due to COVID. We must admit the the remodeling was quite impressive.</span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWFpC10wkgrR59eiHX8_whwbo7J-H-Fb4h28qiY_EfhOuQQLXE33MSdM7VLv-4vC5GAXR6kmCH1Nsr2AN46WievtG4-4btVYNvhyiZXgzXQ1Pj5EVlZWRHXI5EWRH1myuKqWBPAjdC9tZy/s2048/IMG_5911.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWFpC10wkgrR59eiHX8_whwbo7J-H-Fb4h28qiY_EfhOuQQLXE33MSdM7VLv-4vC5GAXR6kmCH1Nsr2AN46WievtG4-4btVYNvhyiZXgzXQ1Pj5EVlZWRHXI5EWRH1myuKqWBPAjdC9tZy/w400-h300/IMG_5911.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Russ, Connie, Marge, Jo Anne - Savegre happy hour</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">By the time we checked in and dropped our luggage in our rooms it was time for happy hour, our evening meal, and of course doing our daily checklist. By now we had tallied 280 species seen/heard.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRXj8KarDQ7EcFEFK6fmBV_PBjtC9kDmhOIZC5qWaLrbgf57tI141OIojetHypxprWEFu4vgFwsqipz0A1OouszPL3Wv8z7qL-7C3R4OYiNdcNlCEWz3faKFGK0BdTZDMVkBDOdp6Dvl0t/s2048/19-Collared-Redstart.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1746" data-original-width="2048" height="341" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRXj8KarDQ7EcFEFK6fmBV_PBjtC9kDmhOIZC5qWaLrbgf57tI141OIojetHypxprWEFu4vgFwsqipz0A1OouszPL3Wv8z7qL-7C3R4OYiNdcNlCEWz3faKFGK0BdTZDMVkBDOdp6Dvl0t/w400-h341/19-Collared-Redstart.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Collared Redstart - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDXpHyt6riVxXHxjHdCLyGK8cMIXXsPnegO4zoV-qsHq6x3xeo3oiBQtdxEKGj9FChyphenhyphenlq-QzjQDrL-wLhr3O8-Z0Ctc4T2Rz9xfVbZKfzJpvgspLxnehllGLCQNNvCNHVsFs3rQX2qtEm6/s2048/20b-Yellow-thighed-Brushfinch.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1273" data-original-width="2048" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDXpHyt6riVxXHxjHdCLyGK8cMIXXsPnegO4zoV-qsHq6x3xeo3oiBQtdxEKGj9FChyphenhyphenlq-QzjQDrL-wLhr3O8-Z0Ctc4T2Rz9xfVbZKfzJpvgspLxnehllGLCQNNvCNHVsFs3rQX2qtEm6/w400-h249/20b-Yellow-thighed-Brushfinch.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Yellow-thighed Brushfinch - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Our before breakfast birding plan required boarding our coaster for a brief journey part way back up the main road in search of local high elevation species. For our effort we were rewarded with Collared Redstart, Black-cheeked Warbler, Flame-throated Warbler, Yellow-thighed Brushfinch, Sooty-capped Chlorospingus, Ruddy-capped Nightingale Thrush, Black-faced Solitaire, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Black-capped Flycatcher, Mountain Elannia, Ruddy Treerunner, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Ruddy Pigeon, Band-tailed Pigeon, and Spotted Wood-Quail.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnwXJCLgEjJzPQMJKHFUT8LKUcBwiEje5GX79hs7uaB8hdhN7FfgvCQ9hc16HUh1QwFnhbg_KWOqkqelWfRQWCCaPu4vJ0txn4D0g5x3qE05eGqSZ8xKNl-cRt3X6CH_Pnx3Z0uSqGY9f/s2048/29-Sooty-capped-Chlorospingus.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1648" data-original-width="2048" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnwXJCLgEjJzPQMJKHFUT8LKUcBwiEje5GX79hs7uaB8hdhN7FfgvCQ9hc16HUh1QwFnhbg_KWOqkqelWfRQWCCaPu4vJ0txn4D0g5x3qE05eGqSZ8xKNl-cRt3X6CH_Pnx3Z0uSqGY9f/w400-h323/29-Sooty-capped-Chlorospingus.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Sooty-capped Chlorospingus - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs7dYc19rW1TrXGGSniZwnswQktqN-ryWOcthyphenhyphenuhjGrNGCWzkzfH4KMo6YUbWPo6JVXlm98hqtfEr-nMnIxuf_0eZ57QerWOr6TXjr3Ocf8615EvQvE_kWGwCLsqvcFszJVoZX4VzlBbtG/s2048/150-Slaty-Flowerpiercer.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1658" data-original-width="2048" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs7dYc19rW1TrXGGSniZwnswQktqN-ryWOcthyphenhyphenuhjGrNGCWzkzfH4KMo6YUbWPo6JVXlm98hqtfEr-nMnIxuf_0eZ57QerWOr6TXjr3Ocf8615EvQvE_kWGwCLsqvcFszJVoZX4VzlBbtG/w400-h324/150-Slaty-Flowerpiercer.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Slaty Flowerpiercer - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">During breakfast we had a pleasant conversation with one of the owners who informed us that our group was the first birding group to visit Savegre since March 2020. This alone probably accounted for how easily Richard was able to make the switch to stay at Hotel Savegre. Looking around the dining area we saw only two other couples which reinforced the owner's claim.</span></p>
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<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29;">Following breakfast we took a short hike around the hotel grounds. Another <span style="caret-color: rgb(55, 47, 41);">noticeable</span> change was a trail usually leading to another section of property was now gated and inaccessible. Too bad as this lead to an interesting trail that lead up hill along a small tributary to the Rio Savegre that paralleled the property.</span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29;"><br /></span></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbppnWaoMctZNZbX3aCbUZuQbAoJEJe_hhC1-j7aZzGbYcIsyuKK55gtUrzijuA-U1Su0Op-LwpuDRZWZoGgK0Zagk-qbbEt9BCHukOsISCgClN6ia-uXvPiIBhK3d7dLsD_XCUKQQOsvf/s2048/183-Slate-throated-Redstart.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1388" data-original-width="2048" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbppnWaoMctZNZbX3aCbUZuQbAoJEJe_hhC1-j7aZzGbYcIsyuKK55gtUrzijuA-U1Su0Op-LwpuDRZWZoGgK0Zagk-qbbEt9BCHukOsISCgClN6ia-uXvPiIBhK3d7dLsD_XCUKQQOsvf/w400-h271/183-Slate-throated-Redstart.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Slate-throated Redstart - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">We now had our first looks at Scintallent Hummingbird, Slate-throated Redstart, Swallow-tailed Kite, Sulphur-winged Parakeet, Torrent Tyrannulet, Yellowish Flycatcher, Yellow-winged Vireo, Golden-browed Chlorophonia, Common Chlorospingus, and Slaty Flowerpiecer.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Instead of lunch at the lodge we opted to eat at a small cafe just up the road, <a href="http://www.kahawa.co" target="_blank">Café Kahawa</a>. Very pleasant outdoor setting along the Rio Savegre. The main courses were very satisfying and he deserts were especially delightful. From the comfort of our tables we added Boat-billed Flycatcher and Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoIYXuZLPmCGOaaynxo6Kd31gDu7cefVDotM7gXPWIQ-OIIc82RUH4lhRqRisNqrXIl8Z0EGVweWRE0Y2n6kMFGL6o2sQS3W_rRIth5k8Hfz5gYT0zmCLI82SPcRSh2_mmzC_V4FR1UOm/s2048/IMG_5934.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1375" data-original-width="2048" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoIYXuZLPmCGOaaynxo6Kd31gDu7cefVDotM7gXPWIQ-OIIc82RUH4lhRqRisNqrXIl8Z0EGVweWRE0Y2n6kMFGL6o2sQS3W_rRIth5k8Hfz5gYT0zmCLI82SPcRSh2_mmzC_V4FR1UOm/w400-h269/IMG_5934.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Trout Basket</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OU9mEzXLydIy641MHw5NEwvVXy7AlB5gOJR7Q9matfIIh9x-Ap9K6INuO8Yd0SoE61RU3_YqtgdsrJOE0-VLX5RQFxnnzoXP7qbu5rp2TvaBI3rnIPI0xCht1ioupvripQKyUhSWy8D5/s1729/169580683_5584062354945191_402815489213898920_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1427" data-original-width="1729" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OU9mEzXLydIy641MHw5NEwvVXy7AlB5gOJR7Q9matfIIh9x-Ap9K6INuO8Yd0SoE61RU3_YqtgdsrJOE0-VLX5RQFxnnzoXP7qbu5rp2TvaBI3rnIPI0xCht1ioupvripQKyUhSWy8D5/w400-h330/169580683_5584062354945191_402815489213898920_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Mini Fruit Pie (strawberry) with ice cream</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">During our earlier walk, there was a trail sign promising an overlook at a waterfall - Mirador Savegre - which intrigued Jo Anne who opted to hike to the waterfall thereby forego lunch at the café. Fortunately Jon agreed to accompany her. “Fortunately” because the trail turned out to be a trial of determination. It turned out to be not at all hospitable as there were more than a few stumbles and falls. They met us back at the hotel after our lunch. Out of respect for their arduous muddy journey, we didn’t elaborate on the scrumptious deserts. Well, not much anyway.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">The valley and Hotel Savegre in particular, are known for sightings of Resplendent Quetzal. So it was more than a little disconcerting that we hadn’t seen any yet. However, there was a small pasture just up the road from the café where people had reported seeing quetzals as well as an active nest cavity. Late afternoon we found ourselves in the pasture scanning the tree line along the river…where we found both male and female quetzals. Not the greatest of looks but now we knew where the nest cavity was located. There was also a very cooperate pair of Tufted Flycatchers.</span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoPpp_RN4EvGtTFuKHQGUBv7kyakWjzFekim4vwjQELJEWccBsBpyzPrQTOtaRBGzXKoH72aWAkrewRw_7JKqzUmFowK8n_j0KDfGHJJVO7OR_f646OWwHdCSfEKEfu3mHxsr3por6n8Iu/s2048/IMG_0844.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1943" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoPpp_RN4EvGtTFuKHQGUBv7kyakWjzFekim4vwjQELJEWccBsBpyzPrQTOtaRBGzXKoH72aWAkrewRw_7JKqzUmFowK8n_j0KDfGHJJVO7OR_f646OWwHdCSfEKEfu3mHxsr3por6n8Iu/w380-h400/IMG_0844.jpg" width="380" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Tufted Flycatcher</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Owing to staying out after happy hour, the staff at the lodge graciously extended the two-for-one special for the rest of the evening! Our evening meal ,as with breakfast, was served a la carte since with COVID, buffet lines in many places were not yet in operation again.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">We got a bit of a break the final morning with a later than usual start time. Just bring our luggage to the reception area before breakfast and bird the area until it was time to eat.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizAS32eILgy_h3w3nmF3Y1ihTLRl14Q2ttw-ap9-778f12VB21unXQ9M3iyk2jQRB1i1cO65FEuwNcCww4GUi_xmkHyA-OkS6iunNBPuXjTJgQ5zn0c8LZAF9zhcRyrb6-CO64C4lc3irk/s1000/170717664_5583327415018685_6161463285557774849_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="1000" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizAS32eILgy_h3w3nmF3Y1ihTLRl14Q2ttw-ap9-778f12VB21unXQ9M3iyk2jQRB1i1cO65FEuwNcCww4GUi_xmkHyA-OkS6iunNBPuXjTJgQ5zn0c8LZAF9zhcRyrb6-CO64C4lc3irk/w400-h249/170717664_5583327415018685_6161463285557774849_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGYrwGpWhNk3yVjW-F_lEkpFGIZPPJmfaWJWICBnYcnBLVRygSdVcBp4UpHC4HAgrB18Z057X0VqcwKBAQHQoAXBBzsR-QVu1NwVlOBh1JazrUySPOtS2EbigdP7okvhap4sUAvNh2c2t/s1905/170483112_5581584888526271_8884463329229544424_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="1905" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGYrwGpWhNk3yVjW-F_lEkpFGIZPPJmfaWJWICBnYcnBLVRygSdVcBp4UpHC4HAgrB18Z057X0VqcwKBAQHQoAXBBzsR-QVu1NwVlOBh1JazrUySPOtS2EbigdP7okvhap4sUAvNh2c2t/w400-h225/170483112_5581584888526271_8884463329229544424_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Volcano Hummingbirds</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt13ppoc3LOJ2bAnyKFjCFARAzKFTbdE4VQN_2mW7gQZc2eiPxEaRfHOFaoAJoREH3GIPrs5ON8Zhgeeok7pbQJ4PrDkhzYTN7dAhgEtIbHglrqTjJbcWEW3NqWJfpeg2zs8nNxg6hhP9n/s1860/171893849_5588985771119516_8652657123507454873_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1860" data-original-width="1253" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt13ppoc3LOJ2bAnyKFjCFARAzKFTbdE4VQN_2mW7gQZc2eiPxEaRfHOFaoAJoREH3GIPrs5ON8Zhgeeok7pbQJ4PrDkhzYTN7dAhgEtIbHglrqTjJbcWEW3NqWJfpeg2zs8nNxg6hhP9n/w270-h400/171893849_5588985771119516_8652657123507454873_n.jpg" width="270" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Then two notable events occurred. The first was Richard approaching Tom to ask if he would please take a picture of a bird perched on a wire using his scope - so that Tom could then share the photo with Richard who would be submitting what turned out to be a rare bird alert to eBird.</span></p>
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<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #372f29; font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Approaching the perched bird, Tom said, “That bird? You want a picture of THAT bird?” “Yep”, replied Richard. “That’s the one”. It was a White-winged Dove. We have these birds in our yard in Sierra Vista as they are quite common. And they are quite common in Costa Rica. Just not at higher elevations like at Hotel Savegre. Sure enough the sighting was flagged on eBird as unusual - hence the need for a photo rather than a </span><span style="color: #372f29; font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(55, 47, 41);">lengthy description. One of those "a picture is worth a thousand words" scenarios.</span></span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">The second notable event occurred after we boarded our coaster for the journey back to the main highway. We made one last minute stop at the “quetzal pasture”. And what a fortunate stop it was! Not only did we get batter looks of the female quetzal perched in front of the nest cavity, but two males were flying back and forth. Suddenly, before we fully realized what was to happen, one of the males mounted the female in front of the the nest cavity! Huzzah! Mating quetzals! What a flurry of color and motion. Richard even stated that in all the years of birding in Costa Rica this was the first time he’s witnessed them copulating.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXkgLyfoDK3EbRkws5HdnXCzMHEVVn9C5eQZa9ZPtp0Z6dOn5CMDsHcR2dYABKx7XP8Hdb_W0sB3pMNdidUybxAdQFm_PHqc00Aavjan85HX93I0imKBcjveugDeSKq7tuzBbcf3EHqKX/s2048/162-Resplendent-Quetzal-Mating.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXkgLyfoDK3EbRkws5HdnXCzMHEVVn9C5eQZa9ZPtp0Z6dOn5CMDsHcR2dYABKx7XP8Hdb_W0sB3pMNdidUybxAdQFm_PHqc00Aavjan85HX93I0imKBcjveugDeSKq7tuzBbcf3EHqKX/w400-h300/162-Resplendent-Quetzal-Mating.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Resplendent Quetzals mating</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Icing on the cake was that the male, now bent on defending his territory against all comers, began stooping on and chasing after a squirrel that the male thought to be too close to the cavity! Definitely a highlight of the trip!</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Once back on the main highway, we stopped at Los Quetzales National Park, mainly the parking area, where Richard called out a bird we’d missed earlier atop Cerro de la Muerte: Timberline Wren. Also a few warbler species we’re familiar with in Wisconsin: Golden-winged and Wilson’s. A short drive down a road parallel to the park added Silvery-fronted Tapaculo. Alas, we whiffed on the Wrenthrush, normally a pretty sure bet. The bird was no doubt lurking somewhere nearby but didn't feel compelled to make an appearance.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">This was followed by a swing through an area of agricultural lands where we went in search of another unusual bird for Costa Rica: Mourning Dove. Hardly a life bird for the group but a necessary tick for one’s country bird list.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">During our brief walk along an access road and marshy area we added Common Gallinule, Black-necked Stilt, Northern Jacana, Little Blue Heron, Spotted Sandpiper, Cattle Egret, Zone-tailed Hawk, Crimson-fronted Parakeet (flyovers), Merlin, Eastern Meadowlark, and Yellow-faced Grassquit.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvmTEu9SSFCWO6goCUofyNE__FEJqDLj5N1TDvzDels6IY-EKFjFOC74wzvn1QS03JqJOMZCZPeJzJLXil94WMjFPMOUm0gWCfqw0rTLnoYouHZrH6sLZUImpZcg2nYBVJYSsnf5iNTfT/s1911/IMG_0925.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1911" data-original-width="1656" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvmTEu9SSFCWO6goCUofyNE__FEJqDLj5N1TDvzDels6IY-EKFjFOC74wzvn1QS03JqJOMZCZPeJzJLXil94WMjFPMOUm0gWCfqw0rTLnoYouHZrH6sLZUImpZcg2nYBVJYSsnf5iNTfT/w346-h400/IMG_0925.jpg" width="346" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Barn owl</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Another urban birding stop was at the Parque de Paraiso, in the town of Paraiso, a known hotspot for roosting Barn Owl on the grounds of the Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Limpia Concepción del Rescate de Ujarrás Catholic Church.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">We’re never quite sure what to expect when we try a new lodge. In spite of what the lodge’s web site portrays, we’re never sure until we arrive. But arriving at <a href="https://www.hotelquelitales.com" target="_blank">Hotel Quelitales</a> at the end of a narrow dirt road we were more than pleasantly surprised.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUXVDdfa9utn2oHdGNHyB2bBcLc4Iqp3tOiueMw7ByIm9w1pf6w5J4VqsTtFYzmiif_vfhfIN4hwe4iyz3ZcBoMgDPXeD_djeix1SM0fi86njf7O_5dgzmIgtoIfOIdJ8WmV_qi0QunNWM/s2048/IMG_0984.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1458" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUXVDdfa9utn2oHdGNHyB2bBcLc4Iqp3tOiueMw7ByIm9w1pf6w5J4VqsTtFYzmiif_vfhfIN4hwe4iyz3ZcBoMgDPXeD_djeix1SM0fi86njf7O_5dgzmIgtoIfOIdJ8WmV_qi0QunNWM/w285-h400/IMG_0984.jpg" width="285" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXK4hfTNoQuczlbm4ZX11j1VyY1bHPkaTPbyvJt5JMuuWD1PKA846RUIO05fJKnw12I85iInECvIRuRG0Moo5r7b-tKP036m6UnsZa6bLvTUNnSANYawF0SoU_6tH5slDoXqmUAbGMF-qI/s2048/IMG_0981.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1146" data-original-width="2048" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXK4hfTNoQuczlbm4ZX11j1VyY1bHPkaTPbyvJt5JMuuWD1PKA846RUIO05fJKnw12I85iInECvIRuRG0Moo5r7b-tKP036m6UnsZa6bLvTUNnSANYawF0SoU_6tH5slDoXqmUAbGMF-qI/w400-h224/IMG_0981.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhchV_USd71sLVOugAf7ADiS4-TYYI6hXSazAoDE8FrtedDl3rux9MEEnQP_7ZX_ceiWJpl9pqSexOrX6BRDDKt1eBJziY_xifeTeoNqDMIkQvVdwGIgRSHIsgimo9-sCE1B09skGH25ebk/s1024/171677261_5600644653286961_4202404399650015221_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhchV_USd71sLVOugAf7ADiS4-TYYI6hXSazAoDE8FrtedDl3rux9MEEnQP_7ZX_ceiWJpl9pqSexOrX6BRDDKt1eBJziY_xifeTeoNqDMIkQvVdwGIgRSHIsgimo9-sCE1B09skGH25ebk/w400-h266/171677261_5600644653286961_4202404399650015221_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The outside didn't hint at what was on the inside</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">The lodge’s accommodations were similar to the bungalows we encountered at Danta Corcavado in that they were scattered from each other, accessible by walks up some steep grades. Fortunately our luggage was transported to each bungalow by staff using a pickup truck and four-wheel drive vehicle leavings us free to check in at reception.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Rooms were spacious and airy. Our room had a view of a distant waterfall off a spacious deck. And again, no need to draw any curtains. The bath was large and incorporated both an indoor and outdoor shower. Continuing our experience of being the only group on site, we pretty much had the dining area to ourselves. The only downside was that it was raining when we arrived so both an umbrella and a flashlight were necessary when going to and from the main reception area/dining area.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicrko07-nmsSZjnzEatJ0mF3KvE4iKMuX3JQsfdiSLlt8kBdRiN8KUGWdoIFdGl-55u0ZGZTpJ8pjFD36HXsbMY6R6n9smZgY6vknuii8tU7Dl36_BvWj5nFcboE7owe4H-gmZK8tdSpia/s2048/20210326_150306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1238" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicrko07-nmsSZjnzEatJ0mF3KvE4iKMuX3JQsfdiSLlt8kBdRiN8KUGWdoIFdGl-55u0ZGZTpJ8pjFD36HXsbMY6R6n9smZgY6vknuii8tU7Dl36_BvWj5nFcboE7owe4H-gmZK8tdSpia/w241-h400/20210326_150306.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ4vL0wVhHiuZHaifs0hv72qGJt9OCTVS4S5M0lg3JSKVVHfvCd4htmAqTa4r2CJUscebuhGWlGJ0MorE7QW-N8pV-xmxG2HFsuPdwL_zOCEi-fn-2xF7Eig5UhIMOJddQsHAgpf5VXUeU/s2048/IMG_1393.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1796" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ4vL0wVhHiuZHaifs0hv72qGJt9OCTVS4S5M0lg3JSKVVHfvCd4htmAqTa4r2CJUscebuhGWlGJ0MorE7QW-N8pV-xmxG2HFsuPdwL_zOCEi-fn-2xF7Eig5UhIMOJddQsHAgpf5VXUeU/w351-h400/IMG_1393.jpg" width="351" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Scaly-breasted Hummingbird</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-AFraa0nl4fe-TCiNRx7-CDVwI-Vyv5GSXNbgf91_9TZpXyraq_luSd2mY0SsI0TnCOEhykEzjfmJ2u4ffk_5y_PavnrVtS7lQitQ7Bx8b6SuA1MIVMfQhYncd9BV3ibOIh0RSyQd4aI/s2048/IMG_1421.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1458" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-AFraa0nl4fe-TCiNRx7-CDVwI-Vyv5GSXNbgf91_9TZpXyraq_luSd2mY0SsI0TnCOEhykEzjfmJ2u4ffk_5y_PavnrVtS7lQitQ7Bx8b6SuA1MIVMfQhYncd9BV3ibOIh0RSyQd4aI/w285-h400/IMG_1421.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Green-crowned Brilliant</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Our birding plan for the next morning before breakfast was to meet at the end of a short trail that terminated at a waterfall and flowering gardens. Rain or shine. Alas, it was rain which putt off a few of the folks. Fortunately there was a covered deck next to a small lagoon into where the waterfall emptied. A few hummingbird feeders attracted Green Hermit, Green-crowned Brilliant, White-bellied Mountain-gem, Violet Sabrewing, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, and Rufous-tailed Hummingbird.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYK9WkRNkOPo17YTN7nD3Buny1r9xdxMOJyzAcSncM-89fedE9JuaYE9uH_KJZ5nu5Hg6HPNZkAaPUmZQ5cTUxpK_grcd9arz3qTsrncNJNUqyCeSEozGykX5_TIkFp0rS9foN7LwNHsLC/s1945/175275098_5624337500917676_3365554367311683653_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1752" data-original-width="1945" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYK9WkRNkOPo17YTN7nD3Buny1r9xdxMOJyzAcSncM-89fedE9JuaYE9uH_KJZ5nu5Hg6HPNZkAaPUmZQ5cTUxpK_grcd9arz3qTsrncNJNUqyCeSEozGykX5_TIkFp0rS9foN7LwNHsLC/w400-h360/175275098_5624337500917676_3365554367311683653_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Black-breasted Hummingbird</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Eventually, Black-bellied Hummingbird was spotted visiting garden flowers while Black-breasted Wood-Quail calling tantalizingly nearby. Eventually a few made an appearance, creeping out to eat some rice scattered on the ground near a row bushes where White-eared Ground-Sparrow also emerged.</span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDoUD4A3BljJ4SrgMLOC-eS5egsj5SxSKxxbvVmaNy37SLNMJbDNfQk_3t1O7LA1PXb_3Tvga_8sEsAsBlsQku-LF-7I5kgXO1Bb11CCs01N84ppTE8ivSF1Kf0Ve4VPn0QLheWpIRnFs/s1723/265-Crimsom-collared-Tanager.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1723" data-original-width="1556" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDoUD4A3BljJ4SrgMLOC-eS5egsj5SxSKxxbvVmaNy37SLNMJbDNfQk_3t1O7LA1PXb_3Tvga_8sEsAsBlsQku-LF-7I5kgXO1Bb11CCs01N84ppTE8ivSF1Kf0Ve4VPn0QLheWpIRnFs/w361-h400/265-Crimsom-collared-Tanager.jpg" width="361" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Crimson-collared Tanager - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOrxNwqL-Qg9lvYtp9sRi-U-W3ka_mXJl5dCqlPgOzuh5QeHYOQI8rfLnWLwdWTSDLFPGKIlIdbU2tgf53mwOo1frDl_Q5GC72Dod1TPt2tGzO3re5V_Sy6Jr8NhooC1rb_HuH9tywYNZ/s2048/IMG_1031.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOrxNwqL-Qg9lvYtp9sRi-U-W3ka_mXJl5dCqlPgOzuh5QeHYOQI8rfLnWLwdWTSDLFPGKIlIdbU2tgf53mwOo1frDl_Q5GC72Dod1TPt2tGzO3re5V_Sy6Jr8NhooC1rb_HuH9tywYNZ/w400-h300/IMG_1031.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Breakfast at Hotel Quelitales</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Other birds in and around the water fall gardens as well as seen from the dining area during breakfast included Chestnut-headed Oropendula, Montezuma Oropendula, Tropical Parula, Crimson-collared Tanager, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Tawny-capped Euphonia, Brown Jay, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, and Broad-winged Hawk.</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">The rest of the day was spent on the road away from the lodge….</span></p>
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<p style="color: #372f29; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p>Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-51464920367072585502021-08-07T15:05:00.002-07:002022-04-03T09:33:41.437-07:00Costa Rica Reunion Tour 2021 - Part 1<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4srfNy0Zt66FpDwqqCg52EGULb_nczly_QjUs8MZ05FNAqBDyGpFrLVXAGdhZYr36slLGNmWFfsjw8dpT5GCwnz1iuZg6XJJJMpnxNqbya2hFN7VqdWXL91JTPA-c1v4qsI4vGwHExBNw/s688/Capto_Capture+2021-03-18_05-30-45_AM.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="688" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4srfNy0Zt66FpDwqqCg52EGULb_nczly_QjUs8MZ05FNAqBDyGpFrLVXAGdhZYr36slLGNmWFfsjw8dpT5GCwnz1iuZg6XJJJMpnxNqbya2hFN7VqdWXL91JTPA-c1v4qsI4vGwHExBNw/w400-h378/Capto_Capture+2021-03-18_05-30-45_AM.PNG" width="400" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #372f29; font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">We first met Richard Garrigues during our first Costa Rica toour in 2004, well before Richard’s critically acclaimed <a href="https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/the-birds-of-costa-rica-richard-garrigues/1008316411" target="_blank">The Birds of Costa Rica: A Field Guide</a> hit the bookstore shelves (now in its second edition). Since 2004, we’ve been back almost every other year with several birding friends with Richard as our guide. <br /><br />Richard informed us before our 2019 tours that he was officially retiring from guiding. He joked that it was mainly due to him getting tired of hearing himself talk. But truth be told, Richard’s success with the field guide plus taking on the challenge of subcontracting ground transport and lodging for other international bird tour companies, he found it more and more inconvenient being away from his office when he was guiding. <br /><br />Accordingly, we threw a retirement party on the next to last day of our second 2019 tour with Richard riding off into the sunset to the strains of Roy Rogers’s “Happy Trails”. <br /><br />And this is where it might have ended were it not for the insistence of the Bruder’s from Colorado. With their urging, Carol contacted Richard within weeks of his “retirement” to see if we might do a “reunion tour” in 2021. Apparently Richard was game because within days he came back with an itinerary. Within a week, we had another full tour lined up for March 2021! Secretly we were pleased. Not only to get to see Richard again but that we would be reunited with many good birding pals. <br /><br />Fast forward to 2020. The scourge of COVID-19. Owing largely to failed Republican leadership, infections skyrocketed. The chances of a tour happening began to look bleak. Costa Rica had closed its borders. Vaccinations were not yet a reality. Tour companies were cancelling tours left and right. Was our reunion tour going to suffer the same fate? <br /><br />Ultimately Costa Rica re-opened its borders. But there were new visa restrictions and added requirements to overcome. Travel health insurance was now mandatory for each day we were to be in Costa Rica. In the event tourists contracted COVID they wouldn’t overwhelm the country’s health system. A Costa Rica Health Pass was also required to gain entry. <br /><br />Carol spent a good deal of time following up with Richard and expat communities in Costa Rica to better understand these new developments. Travel insurance costs were all over the map but we eventually settled on <a href="https://www.trawickinternational.com" target="_blank">Trawick</a>, an international company which offered not only the best prices but also the easiest online options to purchase insurance (plus a smartphone app to download needed documents). <br /><br />The CR Health Pass proved a bit more complicated in that it could only be obtained online and not any earlier than 48-hours prior to boarding our flights. The pass would come in the form of a QR code which was required to show before boarding a plane in the United States as well as when we passed through Costa Rica immigration. <br /><br />Adding to the mix was that the CDC in the United States was now requiring all travelers flying to the United States to provide proof of a negative COVID-19 test. An understandable precaution but just one more complication. Where and when would we be tested in Costa Rica? How much would this cut into our birding time? Additional cost? <br /><br />Thankfully, Carol and Richard got it all sorted. Adding to our good fortunate everyone in the group had already opted, before the CDC test requirement became known, to stay an extra day in Costa Rica following the end of the tour, thus allowing ample time to get tested and not impact on our tour time. <br /><br />Another development working in our favor was the outcome of U.S. November national elections resulting in major policy changes dealing with COVID-19. Vaccinations became more readily available. By the time the time our tour was green lighted, everyone had been vaccinated. After having been been shut out of any and all travel for most of 2020, we were all more than ready for a break! <br /><br />Our group consisted of the Bruders, Risë and John (CO), Carol’s sister Marge Hill (WI), Joanne Peterson (CO), Vickie Buchman (WI), Lynn Koss (WI), Russell and Connie Upstill (AZ), and Patty and Jon Lovekin (CO). Patty and John were new to the group while all the rest had been to Costa Rica with us on previous tours. <br /><br />As always, we had encouraged people to arrive a day or two sooner ahead of the official tour start for a chance to acclimate and chill plus allow a buffer time should any travel delays arise (usually weather related). The Bruders arrived March 14 promising to scout the hotel bar and restaurant. We, along with Jon and Patty, Joanne, and the the Upstills arrived March 15. Marge, Vickie, and Lynn arrived on March 16. Everyone’s flights went smoothly. <br /><br />Because John and Risë were the first to fly they were the first to experience the online Costa Rica Health Pass form process. They alerted the rest of us to a few of the form’s requirements we hadn't been aware of - like needing to upload a PDF copy of the insurance policy plus a few other quirks. <br /><br />Our own travel to Costa Rica began by driving to Phoenix the day before our flight, overnight guests at the Upstills’s home in Chandler. It also helped that our flight time out of Phoenix was later in the morning which meant not having to get up at some unGodly hour. They drove us to the airport where Connie and Russ's car was left in covered parking. We all shared the cost of long term parking. <br /><br />We flew on American Airlines which included a connecting flight in Miami, arriving in Costa Rica a little before 8:00pm. By around 10:00pm we were in our rooms at the <a href="https://www.blogger.com/#">Hotel Bougainvillea</a> having pre-checked in with the hotel on line a few days earlier.</span><p style="color: #372f29; font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="color: #372f29; font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cLQmu4FRCGLJuMKsu76HyN1NbXziabv45uDlhw6UQ3QEp3r_qnbAApfBdQctUZJKTHRVJoaw9Rfct_vRrJpsKEF3D2SiKvsQOAJo1A9ftY4WO7ihJNTSMZnPsIrPiiMnjl6MhLRtlGhz/s2048/IMG_0183.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cLQmu4FRCGLJuMKsu76HyN1NbXziabv45uDlhw6UQ3QEp3r_qnbAApfBdQctUZJKTHRVJoaw9Rfct_vRrJpsKEF3D2SiKvsQOAJo1A9ftY4WO7ihJNTSMZnPsIrPiiMnjl6MhLRtlGhz/w400-h300/IMG_0183.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><p style="color: #372f29; font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></p></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">We had not stayed at Hotel Bougainvillea since 2015. Mainly due to the length of time it took getting to and from the airport through rush hour traffic. But also in part because of changes to the gardens that had resulted in fewer birds. But as this was a reunion tour, staying at the Bougainvillea seemed fitting. Fortunately we arrived in the evening and managed avoided a massive traffic bottleneck owing to road construction (a major thoroughfare bridge was being rebuilt).<br /><br />Owing to COVID several changes were in now place. The usual coffee urns placed at the front and rear entrances along with pastries were missing. So too the breakfast buffet, now replaced with a reduced a la cart breakfast menu. The small bar where we always met for drinks was open but now only a few days a week. However, drinks could be ordered and consumed in the restaurant which turned out to be a plus considering there being way more seating options. <br /><br />Anxious to get out birding and prior to breakfast, we met the Bruders, Upstills, Lovekins, and Joanne outside for a walk in the gardens. Regardless of how the birding had dropped off, the gardens offered lots of space for walking. For the Lovekins - their first tropical birding experience - the birding was great!</span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p style="color: #372f29; font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #372f29; font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEoo-8Qkc7jm6z1SQ9DVWSwJOli3_Ojx9E0PtB7PVu4Xpc67JMK1QzfQdDRGyXli7r1INTyJp7wP6bsN5cwCVhov-Rx0wanROPCO4Yipi1FDYtSEDLhGpOrDVAGBfbNjyl1fzJ8MvkoLyG/s2048/IMG_0311.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEoo-8Qkc7jm6z1SQ9DVWSwJOli3_Ojx9E0PtB7PVu4Xpc67JMK1QzfQdDRGyXli7r1INTyJp7wP6bsN5cwCVhov-Rx0wanROPCO4Yipi1FDYtSEDLhGpOrDVAGBfbNjyl1fzJ8MvkoLyG/w300-h400/IMG_0311.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhF0hqsbEFy0jdaBikwkptyt6uzX7fAJ2unYHZ11kzLJHrg8x4fx1CWSs6FuSCbdCXEwsb-5jxa7QvMg8rfay_uC4tHEwPgOOpouCEOKS8ErTAzNNn145LLIF0-3J7w74S3OLY2O42i8U/s2048/IMG_5745.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1347" data-original-width="2048" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhF0hqsbEFy0jdaBikwkptyt6uzX7fAJ2unYHZ11kzLJHrg8x4fx1CWSs6FuSCbdCXEwsb-5jxa7QvMg8rfay_uC4tHEwPgOOpouCEOKS8ErTAzNNn145LLIF0-3J7w74S3OLY2O42i8U/w400-h263/IMG_5745.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Over the next few days everyone spent time wandering the gardens, taking a dip in the pool, and otherwise just chilling. Marge, Lynn, and Vickie joined the group on the 16th. Richard joined us that evening to make introductions and provide us with an overview of what to expect in the coming days.</span>
<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /><br />On the morning of the 17th, the official first full day of the tour, we did a brief walk across the road to pickup new birds including the first of four endemics (Cabanis’s Ground-Sparrow). Following a filling breakfast and copious cups of coffee, we brought our bags to the lobby where we loaded them onto our coaster bus. We were thrilled that Didier Aguilar was to be our driver. He’d been our driver on our tours in 2017 and 2019. We were delighted to be reunited again! </span><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-iPYT5kr-Kz4Z-kGRX3Xpzxa7zj1p0-Mrk4Q-2Y0NiGciEafmI7ABsT8z1bfkPihYSTWlKeAlKvvPxgA9n7uYjjHG-Q2m4Hdr2nSr4CYmoF1qS89kEIAdVvj32or6YmObIhY32P6HeDo/s2048/IMG_0367.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-iPYT5kr-Kz4Z-kGRX3Xpzxa7zj1p0-Mrk4Q-2Y0NiGciEafmI7ABsT8z1bfkPihYSTWlKeAlKvvPxgA9n7uYjjHG-Q2m4Hdr2nSr4CYmoF1qS89kEIAdVvj32or6YmObIhY32P6HeDo/w400-h300/IMG_0367.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">Before reaching our first overnight lodging we stopped at Carara NP. Aside from a school group of youngsters, the usually full parking lot was unusually devoid of tourists. After paying our admission fees, and getting temperatures checked, we set off on one of the main trails. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br />A walk at Carra rarely escapes encounters with Panamanian white-faced capuchin (Cebus imitator). A large troop suddenly appeared overhead scampering through the trees jumping back and forth to both sides of the trail. At times they landed within a few feet above our heads. Not that we felt unsafe - just that the noise and sudden movements were a bit unnerving.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cg61esOAQt_6GKX1cDJct82WQ3VoasH3pSwcN7QJo6JrXrFO-sOO2WIWGyJfE6Sd3pa5vLVhGISX1CKpcOqWTenL_wR4tVI_p9pkVMYSPgKmz7BJmvwdAfAkj-5pSNGki2Y-H0j0dEnc/s2048/77-Capuchin-Monkey.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1932" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cg61esOAQt_6GKX1cDJct82WQ3VoasH3pSwcN7QJo6JrXrFO-sOO2WIWGyJfE6Sd3pa5vLVhGISX1CKpcOqWTenL_wR4tVI_p9pkVMYSPgKmz7BJmvwdAfAkj-5pSNGki2Y-H0j0dEnc/w378-h400/77-Capuchin-Monkey.jpg" width="378" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Capuchin - photo John Bruder</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig7nTwoQtBpRbx9YkKcoO7-QNGSY2okJ5sDTEK85__2MGl5gBzMX9IjrT3fnDazIOozRuqe9VlUwqCYxdL-WheWM7Wf0iFElZYy9mqZsRLnMDv7zuW3Sp7FUKN7nDQXDHPYvoT7ZGfGVHg/s1797/IMG_0452.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1548" data-original-width="1797" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig7nTwoQtBpRbx9YkKcoO7-QNGSY2okJ5sDTEK85__2MGl5gBzMX9IjrT3fnDazIOozRuqe9VlUwqCYxdL-WheWM7Wf0iFElZYy9mqZsRLnMDv7zuW3Sp7FUKN7nDQXDHPYvoT7ZGfGVHg/w400-h345/IMG_0452.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Common Tody-Flycatcher</td></tr></tbody></table><br />A Common Tody-Flycatcher was in the very early stages of constructing a nest - a collection of material that will eventually take the form of a hanging structure somewhat similar to an oriole nest. A small charming bird - one we refer to as a "pocket bird". So cute you just want to scoop one up, put it in your pocket, and take it with you.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGosPdUd3wPucP_RnlyKka9RwPugRCwqH5KADEdAE8EGBw1MV0uUs1EgrrA9lm3bQYM7guV4BHg3y56hbYP9CmAt_aK2uTyLijSuJGbeJGIaCyQTDXVjjcBP4HG0WUSzawOorox1x_o-3K/s2048/IMG_0431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1509" data-original-width="2048" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGosPdUd3wPucP_RnlyKka9RwPugRCwqH5KADEdAE8EGBw1MV0uUs1EgrrA9lm3bQYM7guV4BHg3y56hbYP9CmAt_aK2uTyLijSuJGbeJGIaCyQTDXVjjcBP4HG0WUSzawOorox1x_o-3K/w400-h295/IMG_0431.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />The first lodge on our tour was <a href="https://www.villalapas.com" target="_blank">Hotel Villa Lapas</a>. By our count this was our sixth visit to the lodge but the first under COVID. The first major visible change was instead of a buffet line, we were served a la carte at our table.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEOavpUutCQ1kMDogayixr0vMrUXn4VP1-5h7mVMGWZVTcJ-_cbq2H-UOQmR70zvqCTvUQpd0DnsFqLkBbTGCd8KVs0BvO1kgpDpm1bfQBHPgJIrJwhLeHRyshxEzWCVYJ2Ch5cvrtM2lg/s1420/IMG_0417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1226" data-original-width="1420" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEOavpUutCQ1kMDogayixr0vMrUXn4VP1-5h7mVMGWZVTcJ-_cbq2H-UOQmR70zvqCTvUQpd0DnsFqLkBbTGCd8KVs0BvO1kgpDpm1bfQBHPgJIrJwhLeHRyshxEzWCVYJ2Ch5cvrtM2lg/w400-h345/IMG_0417.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSGZJ9Nu4kc4r849rlVy66TUpp4CD5k_GtZdNIk3B7BZ23V-jVkd2GAVJ0kPs7SUxqVcBq4tBCjqNz2NLc_HHUvC6PTVa6DdQIIGMAoB_6c8Cy_8qCo7GVG1oryNtWOSrat_bPJBHYpLTc/s2048/IMG_0516.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1642" data-original-width="2048" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSGZJ9Nu4kc4r849rlVy66TUpp4CD5k_GtZdNIk3B7BZ23V-jVkd2GAVJ0kPs7SUxqVcBq4tBCjqNz2NLc_HHUvC6PTVa6DdQIIGMAoB_6c8Cy_8qCo7GVG1oryNtWOSrat_bPJBHYpLTc/w400-h321/IMG_0516.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>A nesting Bare-throated Tiger-Heron was found right where we expected. Sac-winged bats were also right where we left them, roosting under building eaves. And of course other resident birds and wildlife were all around (plus frogs and toads outside our rooms). Of note: the roost site for aracaris apparently was no longer in use. But plenty of fly-overs of scarlet macaws were appreciated. As usual, the weather was hot and humid - such is the nature of lowland birding near the coast.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEX7J1-MD2nQTA06JdvtOMtApw5MevBooRFKzccGvnoMWHM2hGm9tfYh5Mgwf5WNaJQq_fVJ2PiXA5DN4vOkvDHa-eV-XkFsQ7npOpoAFID977h4MrkzODUE82UterxZenppxuAT6meXO-/s1634/IMG_0420.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1634" data-original-width="997" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEX7J1-MD2nQTA06JdvtOMtApw5MevBooRFKzccGvnoMWHM2hGm9tfYh5Mgwf5WNaJQq_fVJ2PiXA5DN4vOkvDHa-eV-XkFsQ7npOpoAFID977h4MrkzODUE82UterxZenppxuAT6meXO-/w244-h400/IMG_0420.jpg" width="244" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjwcAxyaq-ET2OciANFeqNUaXxMV5i8YRnlNWBPeNxN6LiHPtSFrmF1mMn8En_7jVShwVE6uW8yzxKKO-JKc3tRjgVv37ipieuOYvCY-tOEssFMi_-q7WTi2t2b3DhUFr88EYLIhWpHhRN/s2048/IMG_0385.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1935" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjwcAxyaq-ET2OciANFeqNUaXxMV5i8YRnlNWBPeNxN6LiHPtSFrmF1mMn8En_7jVShwVE6uW8yzxKKO-JKc3tRjgVv37ipieuOYvCY-tOEssFMi_-q7WTi2t2b3DhUFr88EYLIhWpHhRN/w378-h400/IMG_0385.jpg" width="378" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scarlet McCaw and typical Costa Rican fare</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div>Following lunch and a brief rest we re-boarded our coaster in search of dry forest bird species. A roosting Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl attracted a lot of attention from other birds including Cinnamon Hummingbird, Gartered Trogon, Painted Bunting, Banded Wren, and Blue Grosbeak. Other birds along the road included Olive Sparrow, Stripe-headed Sparrow, White-throated Magpie-Jay, Rose-throated Becard, and Scissor-tailed Flycatcher. Alas, the two target birds for this habitat - and pretty much our only shot at seeing them - Crested Bobwhite and Lesser Ground-Cuckoo - were no-shows. But a couple of Turquoise-browed Motmot’s helped ease the pain. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMZGUh7C0pNPiAfTNiN3yM0u45lflvY8UiWGV513gPZPQNChAN3s3Ph1EG8fWPUCzikeRCfhfyKoOrr8sILerC5aCje59BThNDKHg2fcE1juTAN6c5ZADlTXMi5Y5OfPYVgHgKyty3Hol/s1309/63-Turquoise-browed-Motmot.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1244" data-original-width="1309" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMZGUh7C0pNPiAfTNiN3yM0u45lflvY8UiWGV513gPZPQNChAN3s3Ph1EG8fWPUCzikeRCfhfyKoOrr8sILerC5aCje59BThNDKHg2fcE1juTAN6c5ZADlTXMi5Y5OfPYVgHgKyty3Hol/w400-h380/63-Turquoise-browed-Motmot.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Turquoise-browed Motmot - photo John Bruder</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br />The next morning we began what would be become our morning ritual - meet at 5:45am for a walk before breakfast. Birds in and around the hotel grounds included Riverside Wren, Piratic Flycatcher, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Scrub Euphonia, Bright-rumped Atitila, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Ruddy Ground-Dove, and Gray-capped Flycatcher.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqKlOYj0ixqBL-nbYQ2_UAX7B3jQAc7cYSn9L4uOwrqViq7gN4b6JvKde0E4QvJ5iF_b0_VotGYtK4hSCMN1M5Xhd9dVYIoTw-5k-zp7B9zW_YC96og03ujj6dW9j2__tP8ie7-J6UhoLz/s2048/76-Ruddy-tailed-Flycatcher.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1848" data-original-width="2048" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqKlOYj0ixqBL-nbYQ2_UAX7B3jQAc7cYSn9L4uOwrqViq7gN4b6JvKde0E4QvJ5iF_b0_VotGYtK4hSCMN1M5Xhd9dVYIoTw-5k-zp7B9zW_YC96og03ujj6dW9j2__tP8ie7-J6UhoLz/w400-h361/76-Ruddy-tailed-Flycatcher.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher - photo John Bruder</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetOkFmFobAiI2jMrCVgeSD8zjcHJDlcuZb6ssMaCmZ-lca1unORqIPvf_rdtY6AwBZotIQRVQGuSAPTdME1rimWmxFSkpi7nnr8HNPM5aDCb93vpoKY5BCprMTdJNTJ5gbKz_jF8nERL0/s1880/54-Riverside-Wren.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1880" data-original-width="1849" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetOkFmFobAiI2jMrCVgeSD8zjcHJDlcuZb6ssMaCmZ-lca1unORqIPvf_rdtY6AwBZotIQRVQGuSAPTdME1rimWmxFSkpi7nnr8HNPM5aDCb93vpoKY5BCprMTdJNTJ5gbKz_jF8nERL0/w394-h400/54-Riverside-Wren.jpg" width="394" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riverside Wren - photo John Bruder</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlhakYWmgGCBmU0B6tNqtpsr04E4DuDkCSL303RYreDC7oggMpNnjDAlwAn4NMzg3Hyr7aPNG600MtSTLXlxwD992P6NqMpB47OFuhzf2QHCufBVW4fKPdnixCJyV4r54T-QzNuhSerYer/s414/168956923_5552916304726463_8491987974667260710_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="414" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlhakYWmgGCBmU0B6tNqtpsr04E4DuDkCSL303RYreDC7oggMpNnjDAlwAn4NMzg3Hyr7aPNG600MtSTLXlxwD992P6NqMpB47OFuhzf2QHCufBVW4fKPdnixCJyV4r54T-QzNuhSerYer/w400-h400/168956923_5552916304726463_8491987974667260710_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northern Ghost bat</td></tr></tbody></table><br />After breakfast - and concerned about more rain - we returned to Carra NP to walk another trail. Wrens were a highlight: Black-bellied, Rufous-breasted, and Rufous-and-white. Golden-hooded Tanager, Blue-black Grosbeak, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Dusky Antbird, Dot-winged Antbird, Black-hooded Antshrike, Orange-collared Manakin, Rufous Mourner, and White-whiskered Puffbird. A none bird highlight was finding a Northern Ghost Bat (Diclidurus albus), a relatively rare, completely white, insectivorous bat. This was our first ever sighting of one in the wild. While they roost in colonies it's not unusual to find a single bat, as in this instance, roosting under a palm leaf.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEile9JSbbKKCTPGfuN5gLLR6Ze_cE-bRxujDPfRgunYWRgeH3grvr1qzzRvhUZA1_p-xcyed2OGmQDx-X0aC9J95FUCHHQJjg-ZJ1Je71MqVirMJI1RsgaswvxesGLzqezASbrjv26JOLJj/s2048/78-Rufous-Mourner.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1901" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEile9JSbbKKCTPGfuN5gLLR6Ze_cE-bRxujDPfRgunYWRgeH3grvr1qzzRvhUZA1_p-xcyed2OGmQDx-X0aC9J95FUCHHQJjg-ZJ1Je71MqVirMJI1RsgaswvxesGLzqezASbrjv26JOLJj/w371-h400/78-Rufous-Mourner.jpg" width="371" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous Mourner - photo John Bruder</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinkSzxvlraWVMMOaLVB4e2bjh7ir7D0NpjYe2nmvDqP4FnFryWhwquN-8bUP0ngumy7UCq2Rojun0d4eA23Q6bgfgSTiUE74YxU6fdNq0yzOMWPj9f9Yx37n2UL5f8ZV5H800q_eQJkNgd/s2048/IMG_0474.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinkSzxvlraWVMMOaLVB4e2bjh7ir7D0NpjYe2nmvDqP4FnFryWhwquN-8bUP0ngumy7UCq2Rojun0d4eA23Q6bgfgSTiUE74YxU6fdNq0yzOMWPj9f9Yx37n2UL5f8ZV5H800q_eQJkNgd/w400-h300/IMG_0474.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />During lunch back at the lodge the rains picked up considerably. However, after an afternoon rest the rains let up as we headed to one of the highlights of any visit to this area: A boat ride on the <a href="https://www.costarica.com/attractions/tarcoles-river/" target="_blank">Tarcoles River</a>. Very popular destination for general tourists to see crocodiles but for birders, an excellent opportunity to bird from the comfort of a slow moving boat. <br /><br />Double-striped Thick-knee, numerous wading birds, several Common Black Hawks, four kingfisher species: Ringed, Amazon, Green and the always popular American Pygmy. Then there was a Yellow Warbler subspecies </span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">(</span><i style="font-family: helvetica;"><span>Setophaga petechia maria</span></i><span style="font-family: helvetica;">)</span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">, </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">the Mangrove Warbler </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">with a head that looked like it was dipped in chocolate. Mangrove Swallows tracked our boat's movement as Black-headed Trogon were seen along the shore.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJQdgslHcHh12wxj7xdgr4fR0v7SQAZbqNyR9JXVURIsXVkdDZQMtVqh3m1eF3tkoGcPnbsDUNPTPdkH988GpJUknOWeZA8AyAZ0OVbtTTM6LnpYCp3G7oBGpLutPSgKPmBZLGcIdDERM/s2048/IMG_0492.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJQdgslHcHh12wxj7xdgr4fR0v7SQAZbqNyR9JXVURIsXVkdDZQMtVqh3m1eF3tkoGcPnbsDUNPTPdkH988GpJUknOWeZA8AyAZ0OVbtTTM6LnpYCp3G7oBGpLutPSgKPmBZLGcIdDERM/w400-h300/IMG_0492.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS8QFCglaWKM3M81JNw0JC5Jw-zPWgAKakJhwvQEtbejJm2avtkGB5zv9LNKF8qcM27M0YbxwKsmVYGFbB-k9ikGRgwG0d1DgfPp9UNJobdThDArfE8HcVjByrRnWCXmxEQyinKCQFTt-/s2048/IMG_0485.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1325" data-original-width="2048" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS8QFCglaWKM3M81JNw0JC5Jw-zPWgAKakJhwvQEtbejJm2avtkGB5zv9LNKF8qcM27M0YbxwKsmVYGFbB-k9ikGRgwG0d1DgfPp9UNJobdThDArfE8HcVjByrRnWCXmxEQyinKCQFTt-/w400-h259/IMG_0485.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Connie, Russ and Joanne enjoying the ride</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Some of our rides have taken place in the morning at first light. But given the amount of rain that fell in the morning, the decision for a late afternoon ride turned out to be a wise move. No rain, plenty of birds, and a beautiful sunset. As we docked, dozens of Lesser Nighthawks criss-crossed above us. Much celebration during the happy hour as there was much to celebrate. <br /><br />The next morning's 5:45am walk along hotel grounds and trails added Gray-breasted Dove, Slaty-tailed Trogon, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Masked Tityra, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Yellow-throated Euphonia and finally, good looks at a Buff-rumped Warbler hopping along the trail instead of along the river bank where we had heard but not seen any earlier.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3HbBVKXsgMgmlCQzADg1-XTyxQrFME2W2slC6EJc1QKYrXumuNLZ_5NCJpN0AIXgXXGJL2CvD4EvCkuWI-SSD1iVegzLkgCWD-2nHaEVPUsp8kOQ2BfWGYH6npTijWcq7yxcSmvlJwXj0/s2048/IMG_0376.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1335" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3HbBVKXsgMgmlCQzADg1-XTyxQrFME2W2slC6EJc1QKYrXumuNLZ_5NCJpN0AIXgXXGJL2CvD4EvCkuWI-SSD1iVegzLkgCWD-2nHaEVPUsp8kOQ2BfWGYH6npTijWcq7yxcSmvlJwXj0/w261-h400/IMG_0376.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut-backed Antbird</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Following breakfast we loaded the coaster and set off for what would be our longest travel day of the tour, headed to a new lodge and the Osa Peninsula. But a travel day doesn’t mean no birding. In fact it opens us up to visiting a number of places along the route as well as birds seen from our coaster windows. <br /><br />One stop was an agricultural area consisting of rice fields where hundreds of wintering Dickcissel were feeding. Alas, all the action took place in a field shielded by a very long and tall hedgerow. Would just one Dickcissel show itself? Of course not. Another target bird - an addition to our country list - was a Eurasion Collared-Dove. One was finally found feeding on the ground near some farm implements (thanks Marge for spotting it!). We also had looks at Shiny and Bronzed Cowbirds.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1V-qc4PeiiX0j7HB3gzV5csJYBy0sBTfpovms1EJP55Pa7h2JNeMgws7WaTHg0sXZxgXQAGJUBh-3QuXHMuQW2AU3zbqFSmbZo1pTAVsxmCO9kjemeJD6rdy7d6MkQzcErH30vTm6Ntw8/s2048/IMG_0521.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1V-qc4PeiiX0j7HB3gzV5csJYBy0sBTfpovms1EJP55Pa7h2JNeMgws7WaTHg0sXZxgXQAGJUBh-3QuXHMuQW2AU3zbqFSmbZo1pTAVsxmCO9kjemeJD6rdy7d6MkQzcErH30vTm6Ntw8/w400-h300/IMG_0521.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the mangrove Hummingbirds</td></tr></tbody></table><br />One key bird we had missed during the boat ride was Mangrove Hummingbird. Small and not terribly colorful as far as hummingbirds go, however, it's a Costa Rican endemic. In other words, the only place in the world to see one is in Costa Rica. If we were to have any shot at seeing all four Costa Rica endemics (recall that we had already picked up Cabinis Ground-Sparrow), we needed this bird. <br /><br />Fortunately, someone following Richard’s eBird reports noted that we had missed the bird on our river trip and communicated to Richard the location of a very much off the road spot where one might be seen. Following this last minute tip, we stopped at a dead end trek near a mangrove forest where the tide was clearly out - but where we did find not one but three Mangrove Hummingbirds thus keeping our endemic streak alive. Also added Wood Stork, Crested Carara, and Prothonotary Warbler in spite of a very local barking dog seemingly upset with our presence. <br /><br />Another stop was where we got to play one of our favorite birding games - "find the bird". Usually this meant a roosting owl or potoo. It was the latter. A Common Potoo.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcaa8_MeEkcwVSZ_okxyoVEKTBi4XyXLdcRCao1keJqe_Uc8IjOdsb_DxLcrV1MWLSKnBvl2FBRMbZxkmg53sE7XhlHH92gZ9Yz6tPZJdOCH-srjkA2fc360F9WODFFo9dXSJ5fn99pt6e/s2030/IMG_0668.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2030" data-original-width="1282" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcaa8_MeEkcwVSZ_okxyoVEKTBi4XyXLdcRCao1keJqe_Uc8IjOdsb_DxLcrV1MWLSKnBvl2FBRMbZxkmg53sE7XhlHH92gZ9Yz6tPZJdOCH-srjkA2fc360F9WODFFo9dXSJ5fn99pt6e/w253-h400/IMG_0668.JPG" width="253" /></a></div><br />Amazing location as the bird - and a chick - were perched atop a wooden fence post barely four and a half feet high located about twenty-five feet off a narrow dirt road. Potoos don’t build nests. They lay a single egg on an exposed post or broken tree limb. That this bird was still there was amazing. Days earlier local kids were posting selfies standing dangerously close to the birds. <br /><br />Rather than risk further disturbance we all remained on the coaster taking turns shooting pictures out the open door. As a light rain began, we watched the adult bird, with sloth like movement, ever so slowly lower its head while extending its wings to envelope the chick, protecting it from the rain. <br /><br />Our planned lunch stop was at a restaurant located down a steep incline near the ocean. Alas, in spite of what the restaurant's hours showed on Google, the restaurant was indeed closed. And looked to have been that way for some time. Pity. It had nice of views of the ocean from the dining area. But as long as we were close to the ocean, a bit further down along the shore was a combination rock and sand beach. An excellent place to seek out Wandering Tattlers. However, as with the restaurant, we were out of luck. Nice views, though and obviously a popular place with the locals.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dPZFiK61nAQ2sRUC6tCqeKnfgVZZRq1HwtXsH7-PFOXuNPjmM1m089lwqr6yTPyNR7MKGwFa_KMAfHrt0L4xHHHp1A06zreCGmlCKtJgBXOkDg1bfB6DpHFqSpLBUfQ3W-KM3169nJJ1/s2048/IMG_0534.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1254" data-original-width="2048" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dPZFiK61nAQ2sRUC6tCqeKnfgVZZRq1HwtXsH7-PFOXuNPjmM1m089lwqr6yTPyNR7MKGwFa_KMAfHrt0L4xHHHp1A06zreCGmlCKtJgBXOkDg1bfB6DpHFqSpLBUfQ3W-KM3169nJJ1/w400-h245/IMG_0534.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />No matter. On to plan B. We found another restaurant offering yet more wonderful typical Costa Rican fare. And who’s to say the food at the original planned stop would have been any good in spite of the views?<br /><br />A few needed potty and fuel stops offered time and to stretch our legs and purchase snacks. You never know who you might encounter at such stops. One gas station had a group of three Americans on BMW motorcycles touring Central America. Just when we thought we were on a grand adventure… (well we were - but you know what we mean).</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU8syuMibci9YOGmSsaXQ4TQQu1LBal55oWElVk2csbIqd8Iv0x9sWm2uMdk2lFuT0yLLIruHZMb-Nqru6wIzWOmX36sTt4xr2luv6Jrp_mvapkYoJWQGOb84IdL-Mis0aWhoQobAIyhV0/s2048/IMG_0537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1451" data-original-width="2048" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU8syuMibci9YOGmSsaXQ4TQQu1LBal55oWElVk2csbIqd8Iv0x9sWm2uMdk2lFuT0yLLIruHZMb-Nqru6wIzWOmX36sTt4xr2luv6Jrp_mvapkYoJWQGOb84IdL-Mis0aWhoQobAIyhV0/w400-h284/IMG_0537.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />In 2004 during our first CR trip, there were essentially two ways to get to the the Osa Peninsula: fly in a puddle jumper or drive. In 2004 we were we driven. Now in 2021, we returned to what we consider the "proper" Osa Peninsula. Retracing our original driving route we noticed much had changed but nothing was more obvious than our crossing the new Rio Rincon bridge.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNHfPJTIPmC80S_hGGLYCJ_n8RIqTLeMxSwQ1erlpivyGn8CdKAN7aIFJT28ypLuNh23phT8uer9unC4bneJfx11ZjkmWr8MzO_1ROXVT7Q4byS3XPpsGbDh8fA6_vfkGoPh6_83GshBTe/s1982/img125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="1982" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNHfPJTIPmC80S_hGGLYCJ_n8RIqTLeMxSwQ1erlpivyGn8CdKAN7aIFJT28ypLuNh23phT8uer9unC4bneJfx11ZjkmWr8MzO_1ROXVT7Q4byS3XPpsGbDh8fA6_vfkGoPh6_83GshBTe/w400-h216/img125.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VEuH5iMQEhc9LTSdkSEDlCQUHh9L8tgYrZQfiW-l7eKbYw7J36CZG1QZ-nncXMz8bMdIypfKT6aOATYlFWqa7BUnJ17qF2ZayPO7Kyy5TU7U9pSr64ty-AqJRkflEKQ9JzGn64E3mNQx/s2048/IMG_0553.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VEuH5iMQEhc9LTSdkSEDlCQUHh9L8tgYrZQfiW-l7eKbYw7J36CZG1QZ-nncXMz8bMdIypfKT6aOATYlFWqa7BUnJ17qF2ZayPO7Kyy5TU7U9pSr64ty-AqJRkflEKQ9JzGn64E3mNQx/w300-h400/IMG_0553.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMU0w2zydwuHhZFp1DQ5ZHQTG0bSpiOtsV6XaH4q3vWA9NseIrDPY6s2QjxgTlPpmocDzpsGF0m6dlPoqActSz48UVDfTHUwEVvVcI_UWohtZfJkLo19ntx5XnqetBOd29h6O2RL4TvRQ2/s2048/IMG_0554.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMU0w2zydwuHhZFp1DQ5ZHQTG0bSpiOtsV6XaH4q3vWA9NseIrDPY6s2QjxgTlPpmocDzpsGF0m6dlPoqActSz48UVDfTHUwEVvVcI_UWohtZfJkLo19ntx5XnqetBOd29h6O2RL4TvRQ2/w400-h300/IMG_0554.jpg" title="The old and the new" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old and the new</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Birding from the bridge in 2004 was a lot more risky. A large logging truck over laden with logs crossed the bridge. Those of us who remained on the bridge bent over backward as the truck slowly passed inches away from our bodies while the bridge swayed, creaked and groaned. We also encountered a group of engineers inspecting the rickety bridge with the goal of someday replacing it. <br /><br />Side note: In 2004 we flew back to San Jose from the Puerto Jimenez airstrip thus avoiding a second crossing of the bridge and a very long drive. Richard, Carol and I were the only ones on our 2021 tour to recall the old bridge. And were thankful for its replacement.<br /><br />Our first new (to us) lodge we encountered during our 2021 tour was <a href="https://dantalodge.com" target="_blank">Danta Corcovada Lodge</a>. Richard had scouted the lodge weeks earlier and thought we would enjoy it. And we did!<br /><br />The Osa Peninsula is one of the most biologically intense places on earth as well as one of the more remote areas in Costa Rica. One of the last places in Costa Rica to be settled and still remain sparsely populated, the Osa is covered almost entirely in virgin rainforest extending all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Separating it from the mainland is the Golfo Dulce – one of only four tropical fjords on earth. <br /><br />Its low elevation and proximity to the ocean make the Osa very hot and humid no matter the time of year. The time we would spend here wouldn’t allow us to assimilate much - we just endured the humidity. However, all our rooms (bungalows) had large screened windows. While not air conditioned, there were plenty of fans to circulate air in the evening when temps dropped to bearable degrees.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiND8rpUoOw5EDpBX_8hiaSKcEWE930hJMSpYO5f_awf2HZaHXlNE6T7Ha_YMiR-zlvGIn_oxcU8VwoMscyztY1zTzz4u7gKN20NjKVHwGpMrL21ZGhj69tmnoiY54pSBy3KvpwxPPYvN6J/s2048/IMG_0576.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiND8rpUoOw5EDpBX_8hiaSKcEWE930hJMSpYO5f_awf2HZaHXlNE6T7Ha_YMiR-zlvGIn_oxcU8VwoMscyztY1zTzz4u7gKN20NjKVHwGpMrL21ZGhj69tmnoiY54pSBy3KvpwxPPYvN6J/w300-h400/IMG_0576.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9pjzl_XayqrYSixvwViLLLoh5q5vzufV5Rlj8-_-CY3rRGeMFC7XakhAascAVxOwKSX8ZPMdm-FBBEmuGnvSaA2LayKILfNdToVT2uAul2Qd9iOHMQAsojKHVZl6mCJw-wSFr0IpfdLHf/s2048/IMG_5872.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9pjzl_XayqrYSixvwViLLLoh5q5vzufV5Rlj8-_-CY3rRGeMFC7XakhAascAVxOwKSX8ZPMdm-FBBEmuGnvSaA2LayKILfNdToVT2uAul2Qd9iOHMQAsojKHVZl6mCJw-wSFr0IpfdLHf/w400-h300/IMG_5872.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwjbd5vo1J8PqhG_QuIVEnJJSdiWOIIvdL3kEe5ZJr9a7687CjUoF7xYeSpyPdd8HkfS5BFygrhpqV5a0I7LE7mun-cTduac1-qO0nbozvlMMYh330ROyPIXnieZoea18gtR5jAb6UkhH/s405/168818137_5559645440720216_9100874268117616226_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="405" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwjbd5vo1J8PqhG_QuIVEnJJSdiWOIIvdL3kEe5ZJr9a7687CjUoF7xYeSpyPdd8HkfS5BFygrhpqV5a0I7LE7mun-cTduac1-qO0nbozvlMMYh330ROyPIXnieZoea18gtR5jAb6UkhH/w400-h400/168818137_5559645440720216_9100874268117616226_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Bungalows were so isolated from one another there was no need to draw curtains. And our large outdoor bathroom - no screens but partially covered overhead - had an outdoor shower, sink and toilet. Just don’t leave the door to the bathroom patio open so as not to invite unwanted critters into the sleeping area. And enjoy the McCaws when they flew over.<br /><br />The main reception, kitchen, dining and bar areas were </span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">open air but </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">covered. Just one rule - no shoes. The wooden floors had recently been redone. The full bar, food and service were first rate. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNmFD0_AEfLtli98eT6xTDiAjcTBGQx3JX2CnNhKfAG1lyEr6zCG5ZzULtmyO0cish9yYhkA7kz29CQb7u2UjfjlpCN8-U2TEc4fbofJO9oEAwYbxMlPV0zMgLoJLomvJjigkaStAIklF-/s2048/IMG_0568.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNmFD0_AEfLtli98eT6xTDiAjcTBGQx3JX2CnNhKfAG1lyEr6zCG5ZzULtmyO0cish9yYhkA7kz29CQb7u2UjfjlpCN8-U2TEc4fbofJO9oEAwYbxMlPV0zMgLoJLomvJjigkaStAIklF-/w289-h400/IMG_0568.jpg" width="289" /></a></div></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br />A bit of a hike to the bungalows required flashlights after dark. Lots of forest sounds in the evening. Patty and Jon’s bungalow was in the midst of a wet area accessed via a boardwalk. Loads of frogs and toads to keep them company. All night. <br /><br />Our first morning came a bit earlier than our “meet at 5:45” appointed time. We boarded the coaster around 5:15 and headed back to the Rio Rincon Bridge to beat the heat of the day. The bridge is now an eBird hotspot. During our stop we picked up 62 species of birds in and around the area including Least Sandpiper, Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Willet, Roseate Spoonbill, Double-toothed Kite, Fiery-billed Aracari, Pale-billed Woodpecker, a handful of parrot species: Brown-hooded, White-crowned, and Red-lored. Yellow-billed Cotinga, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Gray-breasted Martin, Mourning Warbler, and Blue Dacnis.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvQDZ0SvJw14XQLkV13_hOy9s8tNtjtSwX-b5um9EZ7SlQ8RUK44z3OJ7OgDF6Y1rcgvkvPtZ1cbgj-HVqSjUJ9S-ICmwpQeezix2sCa7CMDfA-LEVC3ZjMYtwMjeaHnvJlutJgjrmHtt/s2048/IMG_0551.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvQDZ0SvJw14XQLkV13_hOy9s8tNtjtSwX-b5um9EZ7SlQ8RUK44z3OJ7OgDF6Y1rcgvkvPtZ1cbgj-HVqSjUJ9S-ICmwpQeezix2sCa7CMDfA-LEVC3ZjMYtwMjeaHnvJlutJgjrmHtt/w400-h300/IMG_0551.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABxdI53n5O-jYrT6B3zsv0TLAM5gNyU0DyP5IoVmM9YEcoZS5hJny1lkbhCkOB62J9tKEUxhu7m-tOCv8izIGiN3GHvJHxOQcJF4q2-gej8rWt9PnKkx-AGlbwwDCz6t7NgySXiYg7W-E/s2048/IMG_5884.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABxdI53n5O-jYrT6B3zsv0TLAM5gNyU0DyP5IoVmM9YEcoZS5hJny1lkbhCkOB62J9tKEUxhu7m-tOCv8izIGiN3GHvJHxOQcJF4q2-gej8rWt9PnKkx-AGlbwwDCz6t7NgySXiYg7W-E/w400-h300/IMG_5884.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkKF1EA16CzfmWYYezbcTfWc1_kSRvoN2_c0-tC_39II53Qa71VCzwdp81_Yw4LYRuGSA_yx939dah54is2oj0EUBLKxMn5r0XkAjGCTPV8iLNipq3aB6kmDik2WErdv4mwL9SBtU1qPj/s2048/IMG_5900.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkKF1EA16CzfmWYYezbcTfWc1_kSRvoN2_c0-tC_39II53Qa71VCzwdp81_Yw4LYRuGSA_yx939dah54is2oj0EUBLKxMn5r0XkAjGCTPV8iLNipq3aB6kmDik2WErdv4mwL9SBtU1qPj/w400-h300/IMG_5900.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rio Rican, roadside birding, Tom and Didier</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>After breakfast, we again lit out for more birding, this time on the Camino a La Tarde. Crested Quan, Little and Great Tinnamou (heard only), Long-billed Hermit, Crowned Woodnymph, and ticked new species of woodpeckers: Golden-naped and Red-crowned. Black-faced Anthrush, Red-capped Manakin, Rufous Piha (heard only), Northern Bentbill, Lesser Greenlet, and Green Honeycreeper. <br /><br />Back to the lodge for lunch then a second visit to Camino a La Tarde where we added Laughing Falcon, Blue-crowned manakin, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, a Scarlet Tanager ( another country bird for us), Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Orange-chinned Parakeet, White-necked Puffbird, and Squirrel Cuckoo. <br /><br />Back again at the lodge we chatted up their local guide who had done a night walk the evening before stating that he found not one but three Fer-de-lance in and around the main lodge building. All the more reason to carry a flashlight and stay on the trails. <br /><br />In conversations with one of the owners, Merlin, we learned that Danta Corcovado Lodge participates in the CST Program (Certification of Sustainable Tourism), recognized by the World Tourism Organization as a program that is gradually improving environmental and social impacts of tourism. The lodge’s sustainability program focuses on four areas: <br /><br />Natural Environment: Sustainable interaction of the hotel with its natural surroundings through the implementation of programs to protect the environment. <br /><br />Socioeconomics: Interaction of the hotel with the surrounding communities. The hotel generates benefits and growth with development by creating jobs and supporting local small businesses. Staff at the lodge are all from local communities. <br /><br />Hotel Infrastructure: Internal processes for waste management, water and energy saving, use of alternative energies and the type of products that the business acquires (organic, biodegradable and environmentally friendly products). <br /><br />Guests: Hotel education programs to invite participation and/or create awareness for the lodge’s sustainability programs. <br /><br />For as long as the lodge has been in existence we were surprised to hear that they never specifically used any targeted advertising for birding groups. High school and university groups, yes. But not bird tour groups. Perhaps after our visit that might change. <br /><br />Our next day early morning foray at Danta Corcovado involved a bit of a slog through less than flat terrain. We started in the dark at 5:00am. Knowing this, some of the group elected to sleep in. Just as well since parts of the concrete tracks proved to be wet with dew and somewhat uneven making footing a bit tricky. That it was already very humid didn’t help.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOb7brzvuk77RFSke-dhMHTJs9bAKXZh6gijun0xfc02cDoE29a7HcfLvBHuSwM0DN-j3IhFVhUgWct7y5nlyIhp25mr7cwNpiNEmDp83dhJZiySfQTi1QeSdnq7JarD69N9zssz0Umh8R/s2048/IMG_0632.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOb7brzvuk77RFSke-dhMHTJs9bAKXZh6gijun0xfc02cDoE29a7HcfLvBHuSwM0DN-j3IhFVhUgWct7y5nlyIhp25mr7cwNpiNEmDp83dhJZiySfQTi1QeSdnq7JarD69N9zssz0Umh8R/w300-h400/IMG_0632.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />Our target bird? Gray-breasted Crake. This would actually be a rare Costa Rica life bird for Richard.</span><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium; text-align: center;">Crakes are notoriously elusive. Very small. Heard much more often than seen. This species preferred damp grassy fields and marshes. Frustratingly, crakes establish a maze of grassy tunnels so they rarely have to make an appearance. The plan was to play a call and hope that the bird would peek out of an edge opening. </span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuA5VNVxTpvsJ8dPNhZsbsjWsx5RmT4km415artn_Smmqb6i3HMBzPu5-Y82xL5dYlwaxdf4q7mLXQI4y-y2qWxSgsMvJGfJndOfL1jTjWP7BDfKA-P2d_xxt8i73r-e1lEvEiGOppNnm8/s2048/IMG_0615.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuA5VNVxTpvsJ8dPNhZsbsjWsx5RmT4km415artn_Smmqb6i3HMBzPu5-Y82xL5dYlwaxdf4q7mLXQI4y-y2qWxSgsMvJGfJndOfL1jTjWP7BDfKA-P2d_xxt8i73r-e1lEvEiGOppNnm8/w300-h400/IMG_0615.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "crake" walk</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">The playback part of the plan went well. Alas, as with many crakes, this bird remained well heard but unseen. Considering how close and how well we heard the bird, I counted it as a life bird. There are a few on my life list as “heard only”. But dang it. It would have been grand if the bird just made an appearance, no matter how short. If only for Richard's sake.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEfAW5ol5Jr1Y9vdpQHqTd9jwWOv1fCCAVsjN-MylmNiJ3pHV3zxR8PUtNvW3w4wrv3Mg-2WcB53bUzHef3Ag4Xs4HMsMZQKVi07D1k6ZEXrdIH_eSmMD26L4jb1LtikCcPbuuaTpaw4mZ/s414/169369425_5564667836884643_9143075760760143154_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="414" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEfAW5ol5Jr1Y9vdpQHqTd9jwWOv1fCCAVsjN-MylmNiJ3pHV3zxR8PUtNvW3w4wrv3Mg-2WcB53bUzHef3Ag4Xs4HMsMZQKVi07D1k6ZEXrdIH_eSmMD26L4jb1LtikCcPbuuaTpaw4mZ/w400-h400/169369425_5564667836884643_9143075760760143154_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLn3Wqu5nqlpbvaiU1as3A8WRhnwA9fGHJ_cVeM5B2fp4Lcqr7WuDqj34dRVSeT-1ESU4REaWhL4SfFGb7dshCAmT5mi8ilJZ82nFVkx9rgbzP-5CBICUNDv5FNMoeaaxfZaoE8F3MWbBE/s2048/IMG_0618.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLn3Wqu5nqlpbvaiU1as3A8WRhnwA9fGHJ_cVeM5B2fp4Lcqr7WuDqj34dRVSeT-1ESU4REaWhL4SfFGb7dshCAmT5mi8ilJZ82nFVkx9rgbzP-5CBICUNDv5FNMoeaaxfZaoE8F3MWbBE/w400-h300/IMG_0618.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John, Risé, Jon, Jo Anne, Patty</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">The non-crake sighting aside, the walk did prove very birdy as we ventured further up the trek to a couple of overlooks. O</span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;">n our return to the lodge a</span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;">s we passed over the "crake" boardwalk, Richard played a recording of “Under The Boardwalk”. No doubt where the little bugger was sitting. And laughing at us.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br />All told we tallied over 50 species of birds on our walk including Marbled Wood-Quail, Costa Rican Swift, Gray-headed Kite, White Hawk, Linneated Woodpecker, Steak-chested Antpitta (heard only), Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Black-crowned Tityra, Isthmian Wren, and Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher. <br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">A little later in the day during another outing away from the lodge, the entire group experienced another frustrating “heard only” crake when a very vocal Ocellated Crake also refused to put in an appearance. More roadside birding netted Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Blue-black Grassquit,<span><span> </span></span>Buff-throated Saltator, Smooth-billed Ani, Pale-breasted Spinetail, and a massive migration overhead comprised mostly of Swainson’s Hawks.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VZAnbJ8h5AGAXQK8YQY9OMu3wVvHRyXhuCkeeD5md5IKTpMFKjaJyIF5BpPctM64yX37zQH7Grtsqp9-QFDbUg3VFJnAn7BoHoS4wnJC0TyvUkJGFIVMkfrraz37QLR_PRKeS-b3hv40/s2044/IMG_0674.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1711" data-original-width="2044" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VZAnbJ8h5AGAXQK8YQY9OMu3wVvHRyXhuCkeeD5md5IKTpMFKjaJyIF5BpPctM64yX37zQH7Grtsqp9-QFDbUg3VFJnAn7BoHoS4wnJC0TyvUkJGFIVMkfrraz37QLR_PRKeS-b3hv40/w400-h335/IMG_0674.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stripe-throated Hermit</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">During our nightly checklist, those who participated were able to add several checks on their checklist than those who failed to go. You snooze, you lose. The early birder gets the bird. Though to be fair, those that remained behind got to witness a group of aracari emerge from their night roost cavity. And they added Stripe-throated hermit and Charming Hummingbird.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX4t6-ftaX-Yz6cZp0lGjaTD3inGlpHwl5tBVxWIBZMl0J6I52gzDFNXa4NH1F2bJ0OkL7TRvrD0ROk-7afIOi3qXIzbsRJukiTBV4rr35h0iiz9BQT_AEO0P7VL2Ug1QcELZcTb0P9xmZ/s2048/IMG_0583.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1594" data-original-width="2048" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX4t6-ftaX-Yz6cZp0lGjaTD3inGlpHwl5tBVxWIBZMl0J6I52gzDFNXa4NH1F2bJ0OkL7TRvrD0ROk-7afIOi3qXIzbsRJukiTBV4rr35h0iiz9BQT_AEO0P7VL2Ug1QcELZcTb0P9xmZ/w400-h311/IMG_0583.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTrBHsl0VayLYCuR5V8_fraCZ0v15SWoKXDZNwaPNNxlB8y_J_4ar5lEF6L0Vw8HpOIWYGE3LckWvWD1tOrcaY8fK0FsgsOpwmq2tuQm5TpGzNRxTFaMUkO0y9FMXuEAW4HASfzp2K-f5f/s2048/IMG_5869.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTrBHsl0VayLYCuR5V8_fraCZ0v15SWoKXDZNwaPNNxlB8y_J_4ar5lEF6L0Vw8HpOIWYGE3LckWvWD1tOrcaY8fK0FsgsOpwmq2tuQm5TpGzNRxTFaMUkO0y9FMXuEAW4HASfzp2K-f5f/w400-h300/IMG_5869.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three-toed Sloth and Richard relaxing</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">All too soon it was time to depart Danta Corcovada. We gathered our luggage, loaded our coaster and after a brief breakfast we headed out. Safe to say in spite of the hot and humid environment we all could have spent more time at the lodge and more birding opportunities in the Osa. Who knows - perhaps a second (and successful) try for the Gray-breasted Crake? <br /><br /><br /> <br /></span><br /></div></div></div></div>Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-60626207993568743942020-12-15T10:42:00.003-08:002020-12-15T10:42:36.076-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Weeks 9 and 10 Bird Tour<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>3/11/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 57 - Week 9 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Qw_yZP4hyphenhyphens_45gWstS6tJNV3ZI_-JRs89Gi0qjto9GrfiGuQTlNg7tWEqVveZq-s4t3CvvfRgA2GL9CqjGE_whqRg8UXmV_LW6eAW2oJQECXbS1EYXV43cnss8ntYEvd8a8NA6XTAgKw/s2048/IMG_4640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1287" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Qw_yZP4hyphenhyphens_45gWstS6tJNV3ZI_-JRs89Gi0qjto9GrfiGuQTlNg7tWEqVveZq-s4t3CvvfRgA2GL9CqjGE_whqRg8UXmV_LW6eAW2oJQECXbS1EYXV43cnss8ntYEvd8a8NA6XTAgKw/s320/IMG_4640.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Wednesday, another day for walking about. First up was dropping off our laundry before heading for a stop at Chocolate y Mole la Soledad for Marge to sample bowl of hot chocolate.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">More exploring, this time further west, zig-zagging east-west streets. Bumped into a new mercado, Mercado IV Centenario near a church we’d not visited, Basilica de la Solidad.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Walking further up hill we came through the private neighborhood where we’d visited weeks earlier on our first local bird group walk.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Winding our way back into the city central we stopped at Santisima Flor de Lupulo for Tom to sample another flight of beer.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Back onto the Acala for more shopping, Tom purchased a necklace for Jennie at Copol and Marge purchased two pairs of earrings at another shop.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Sorting out where to have lunch we settled on a revisit to Pan-Am. Veggie quiche with red potatoes and horchata frappe. Wandered through more shops on our way back to the apartment. Happy hour for Tom (Marge has not wanted to go since her first night). Learned that one of the workers, Edgar, is AWOL with no idea if he’s returning to work. This has stressed Tio and Manuel and it shows.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 58 - Week 9 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf2IZRwoq13UIbiLcS0sxykJlDU3BP1S94ErLs5SubUROuabYNDntDFyTNzqGIRueMujmQUpsdZw6TDCRzOZ-pIn9AkQVHrB1Y9zsP2WaBEI7rMtfB6UvvJNqeGJE85Q584iJx8Ws_j4UQ/s2048/IMG_5959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1947" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf2IZRwoq13UIbiLcS0sxykJlDU3BP1S94ErLs5SubUROuabYNDntDFyTNzqGIRueMujmQUpsdZw6TDCRzOZ-pIn9AkQVHrB1Y9zsP2WaBEI7rMtfB6UvvJNqeGJE85Q584iJx8Ws_j4UQ/s320/IMG_5959.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Have to say that the coronavirus scare is sweeping the world. But so far, here in Oaxaca, we seem to be isolated. That of course will change but hope that two weeks from now when we fly home, we’ll be be able to do so given flight bans from the EU countries.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">That said, we departed the apartment to allow for our weekly cleaning. Headed over to Boulenc for some coffee and toasted bread.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">From there we headed over to the Cultural Museum to show Marge the Tomb 7 exhibit. Of course we had to checkout some shops along the way.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Following the museum we headed up to Berlina’s for a bite of lunch. Wonderful cream of broccoli soup, homemade bread, and strudel (with ice cream) for desert.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Wandered back to the La Casa de Las Artisanias de Oaxaca to buy Paul and Frank some black clay copitas. Then back to the apartment for a rest before going to pick up our laundry. And then it was time for Happy Hour with now both Marge and Carol attending.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 59 - Week 9 Birding Tour</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi315qJVh0dH7K80m7g8J1_pC42hsGslliPS1LOfQTX1UsUh2W94kU5Hor6Ez-wdfOlTv5TOq1qCO2Y7RQNcJcjeB4qtg-hpE-76VBlDV0EiYCAgDgTmr94-GVMm0xkFib0OIlciKxwOgQg/s2048/IMG_3474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1409" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi315qJVh0dH7K80m7g8J1_pC42hsGslliPS1LOfQTX1UsUh2W94kU5Hor6Ez-wdfOlTv5TOq1qCO2Y7RQNcJcjeB4qtg-hpE-76VBlDV0EiYCAgDgTmr94-GVMm0xkFib0OIlciKxwOgQg/s320/IMG_3474.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Packing up small bags for the bird tour. Leaving our large bag for when we return.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Check in at the Hotel Mision isn’t until 3:00pm so we have some time to kill. Walked up to Llano Park and along the way stopped at Pipe cafe for coffee and a bite to eat. Three small pieces of French toast with a platter of fresh fruit.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">A round trip through the park then back to the apartment. Stopped to buy some soap recommended for stains in clothing. Then invited into a small nuevo art studio which holds classes and workshops for artists all over the world. Those artists then paint small pieces of art on the old adobe walls of an interior courtyard - something you would never see from the street.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Finally time to hail a taxi for the short trip to Hotel Mision. We wound up being put into an elegant suite (for the price of a standard room) since the standard room we’ll stay in during the next seven days wasn’t ready yet.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Time for a few drinks at the pool bar before Tim and Bridget arrived. Rather than eat at the hotel where we’ll be eating for the next several days, we walked into town for an evening meal at the miaz. Walked around the Santa Domingo square before heading back to the hotel. Have to say the room was extravagantly nice.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Unfortunately, John and Risé’s flight from CO Springs was cancelled - they won’t arrive until late afternoon tomorrow. But Vicky had arrived just fine (Marge and Vicky are rooming together).</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Spoke with some of the Field Guides tour that was just ending as well as caught up with Mica, one of our guides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 60 - Week 9 Birding Tour</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Ek_6NBJTBjf98pYK9ZgI8VcHca_v1pq94QzWB4rVB79lIG7y3VyX2J2qdeU7qMPswBOBMYixTISho6GAbEiz30DTUIRz2tWvxsqMVhZBYTl8-BiuAMdeiW_hYoUNCAGVhAI9y8khN11g/s2048/IMG_3475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1712" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Ek_6NBJTBjf98pYK9ZgI8VcHca_v1pq94QzWB4rVB79lIG7y3VyX2J2qdeU7qMPswBOBMYixTISho6GAbEiz30DTUIRz2tWvxsqMVhZBYTl8-BiuAMdeiW_hYoUNCAGVhAI9y8khN11g/s320/IMG_3475.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Free day. Tim, Bridget, Vicky Marge and us walked into town for breakfast at Pan-Am. Then walked on to the Cultural Museum where we left Tim, Bridget and Vicky to tour the Tomb 7 exhibit while we with Marge waited outside.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">A first communion celebration was taking place outside the front of the church when Tim, Bridget and Vicky came out after their tour.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Once the celebration broke up we all headed down the Alcala. Bridget and Tim decided to forge ahead on their own to the Zocola and mercado while Vicky shopped for earrings in a jewelry shop. I forged ahead to Copal to see if they had restocked a necklace Risé was interested in (Carol had texted a photo of a necklace which Risé wanted but had been sold).</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Fortunately, the necklace had been restocked. A series of texts followed where Carol sent Risé several photos and prices of necklaces. Risé finally settled on a different necklace which we purchased for her. Then I surprised Carol by purchasing a necklace she had really liked as a 25 year wedding anniversary present.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Vicky bought a small carving then we headed down to the Zocola for a round of cokes and people watching. As we walked back toward the hotel we simply had to stop at Berlina’s so I could drink and beer while they watched.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">While we were out and about Steve and Rita’s flight arrived so when we got back to the hotel, they were already checked in. Tim and Bridget were back at the hotel as well.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Connie and Russell arrived in a full-blown panic. Apparently their kids had convinced Connie that due too the virus scare and fear of not getting a flight home, they should return immediately. Eventually Connie calmed down but they may still leave the tour early (they’d already changed their tickets home to go 5 days sooner). We’ll see.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Drinks at the pool then met the guides at 7:00 for introductions and an evening meal. During the intro, John and Risé finally arrived - but their luggage hadn’t. It’s in CO Springs but should catch up with them tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Following dinner we headed to our rooms - and early day for tomorrow, the official first day of the tour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 61 - Week 9 Birding Tour</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVePI6gusoZHZ96DIS1zHEDSu4E8dj6T2Uwaas8uk2CyhFOOcv0l0wYyZwZwvaTnPWAaulo7nFyhSTkbxrbD0JhoXTv25fgjLlHBarMZxiw1VlHkNXu1ddMajLEfNydny8ibO3IOD6hnoA/s2048/IMG_3649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1168" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVePI6gusoZHZ96DIS1zHEDSu4E8dj6T2Uwaas8uk2CyhFOOcv0l0wYyZwZwvaTnPWAaulo7nFyhSTkbxrbD0JhoXTv25fgjLlHBarMZxiw1VlHkNXu1ddMajLEfNydny8ibO3IOD6hnoA/s320/IMG_3649.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>First day of birding tour ended with the news that Field Guides is suggesting we shorten the tour by several days. In the end we cut the three day extension, took a vote as to how many would like to finish out the main tour which will end on Friday. One couple, Tim and Bridget were already not going on the extension. Connie and Russell in full blown panic changed their flights to leave Thursday morning.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">The rest have opted to stay and fly home Saturday as planned. But flights will have to be altered since the remaining people who voted to stay were also going on the extension.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">We have asked that our flights be changed for us to leave on Sunday as we still have to finish up business at our apartment.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Meanwhile, the tour continued with many good birds found.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 62 - Week 9 Birding Tour</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRRuElliCvHXztJ1pA1-YDIjdjPsAQzdLM06Ue22IJT9qRwfYmwt9NA0FQzStzAAf1390aZyp_zIzEks_MapgZ9pMAYR82lVWBWiEdlsFpw0Oze4fFqtjlI_dD3TJCz4lAiVyxYAn27Ra/s2048/IMG_3495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRRuElliCvHXztJ1pA1-YDIjdjPsAQzdLM06Ue22IJT9qRwfYmwt9NA0FQzStzAAf1390aZyp_zIzEks_MapgZ9pMAYR82lVWBWiEdlsFpw0Oze4fFqtjlI_dD3TJCz4lAiVyxYAn27Ra/s320/IMG_3495.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Tour continues. Efforts to change flights continue. More good birds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 64 - Week 10 Birding Tour</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqYzIm5e3C-a28P47TFEBcqbjH_7QbNjIL32zHRRYpgn8MIjo-x2eCRVqRaBJqqdRbgI5_aRv98d0O3XKDvbfSWyEz4iI2NJDWobM1NqsQAsA1_Plwk79Cm27Vi1bLIDkbCtJ1D37XnnP/s2048/IMG_3507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1295" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqYzIm5e3C-a28P47TFEBcqbjH_7QbNjIL32zHRRYpgn8MIjo-x2eCRVqRaBJqqdRbgI5_aRv98d0O3XKDvbfSWyEz4iI2NJDWobM1NqsQAsA1_Plwk79Cm27Vi1bLIDkbCtJ1D37XnnP/s320/IMG_3507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>This will be Connie and Russell’s last full day on the tour.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 65 - Week 10 Birding Tour</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmH-FTYfF-cD5DKcGvCx3qwS4plvR7McXE7DwjP6117g8c4RUCQRhKTX__-r_DR2gio52qrvB_aBSjNS5tA9i7nc-ldAL5FF6piNC0mTQyVdYdoTcIfCkTbWBRFTRB89eu0jD2isqyvRW/s2048/IMG_3502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1356" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmH-FTYfF-cD5DKcGvCx3qwS4plvR7McXE7DwjP6117g8c4RUCQRhKTX__-r_DR2gio52qrvB_aBSjNS5tA9i7nc-ldAL5FF6piNC0mTQyVdYdoTcIfCkTbWBRFTRB89eu0jD2isqyvRW/s320/IMG_3502.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Connie and Russell have departed. By now all the flight changes for the remaining group members to fly out on Saturday have been confirmed.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 65 - Week 10 Birding Tour</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqSy6J6ujTzqMCdGWa3RH-EwTptyji6tuc-oWyRbOUgi20iVnnFDdLJvUTyvne-nd9U3ZtO_wvdlP8Haqd7zE-3ByVFDudpUMHqo6Fy_YBOwtTKWr0fSbIIMmWCd-vGV3AGAyuI9qCR-7/s2048/IMG_3596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1417" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqSy6J6ujTzqMCdGWa3RH-EwTptyji6tuc-oWyRbOUgi20iVnnFDdLJvUTyvne-nd9U3ZtO_wvdlP8Haqd7zE-3ByVFDudpUMHqo6Fy_YBOwtTKWr0fSbIIMmWCd-vGV3AGAyuI9qCR-7/s320/IMG_3596.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>This is the last full day of the tour. Returned to the hotel to pack, relax, then gather at a nearby restaurant for our farewell dinner. By now all our neighbors save for David and Kathy have departed Villa Maria.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>A complete tour report posted by Field Guides with a bird list, a brief video and photos by our guides <a href="https://fieldguides.com/guides/dan-lane/">Dan Lane</a> and <a href="https://fieldguides.com/guides/micah-riegner/">Micah Reigner</a> is here: <a href="https://fieldguides.com/triplists/oax20p.html" target="_blank">Sykes Private Oaxaca Bid Tour</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 66 - Week 10 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN6FKcMoXKqH5bbLnkF4hDPDyyQVq4Z-90IdAxjRqEcIYbmsPPnNWXFxxl3NA2z1hjAQyz6QwMG2r211usibNssQ9Sy2xL0bAAZrs8Amy-LDy1vwM9NU41jN18d5Da-70GbYX5rpljvxj8/s2048/IMG_4534-copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN6FKcMoXKqH5bbLnkF4hDPDyyQVq4Z-90IdAxjRqEcIYbmsPPnNWXFxxl3NA2z1hjAQyz6QwMG2r211usibNssQ9Sy2xL0bAAZrs8Amy-LDy1vwM9NU41jN18d5Da-70GbYX5rpljvxj8/s320/IMG_4534-copy.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Saturday. Remaining tour members departed for the airport. We settled our bill at the hotel, took a taxi back to Villa Maria. David and Kathy still in residence but no one else. One last breakfast at La Rambla, 1:00pm meeting with Maria to retrieve our deposit, pass on our tips to the boys, and one last walk downtown to lunch at Berlina’s. Rearranged and managed to pack all our belongings for our flight home on Sunday. One last very lonely happy hour on the roof.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 67 - Week 10 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjem7ypopR_QM5icPct33-bJIxdsOjvcBIeAFmpT4pyZdfr7P-6ciBMMyRtEJ_F3VidIrZrdGgp7MSLlsGkpkVluo6L8AVD53f8-WvWSNSk-xBIIFt4t3Y3D4NeRwooATVzx2z9f35Ze40S/s2048/IMG_6236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjem7ypopR_QM5icPct33-bJIxdsOjvcBIeAFmpT4pyZdfr7P-6ciBMMyRtEJ_F3VidIrZrdGgp7MSLlsGkpkVluo6L8AVD53f8-WvWSNSk-xBIIFt4t3Y3D4NeRwooATVzx2z9f35Ze40S/s320/IMG_6236.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>American Airlines updated our flight info, pushing our flight back to 9:15am. They automatically rebooked us to a later flight at DFW but fearing we would still not make the connection, we changed to a later flight (no charge).</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-family: helvetica;">Our flights home went smoothly with less than full flights. Glenn and Diane picked us up in Tucson and by early evening we were back in our townhouse.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-30032484788104980842020-12-15T08:27:00.012-08:002020-12-15T10:20:20.104-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Week 8<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>3/4/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 50 - Week 8 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD4XWUpgMLhqTk0kXvtb1OLsY61Pd9rbeR4X2BFJfTnzuNQ7oA5uGI26ppXO9blu6WPOwiV52EWHee33qUC2TH922KvRfCgCutUD9YDfm_q8A4VLvWGGpfTfPCFKk74NH5u4rifmQjlSd7/s2048/IMG_4890.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1353" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD4XWUpgMLhqTk0kXvtb1OLsY61Pd9rbeR4X2BFJfTnzuNQ7oA5uGI26ppXO9blu6WPOwiV52EWHee33qUC2TH922KvRfCgCutUD9YDfm_q8A4VLvWGGpfTfPCFKk74NH5u4rifmQjlSd7/s320/IMG_4890.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The uneventful days continue as Carol still not up to snuff. Walked to buy groceries at Chedraui, cooked chili, finished what will be our last jigsaw puzzle, planned on Marge’s arrival on Thursday. Happy hour again without Carol who wanted to finish reading a book.<span style="font-stretch: normal; letter-spacing: 0.5px; line-height: normal;"><i>3/5/2020</i></span></span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-stretch: normal; letter-spacing: 0.5px; line-height: normal;"><i><br /></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 51 - Week 8 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKJvCj_sxOsUwo3zvCeIgoT7IIdtPzcWOto9iCvur1zZfOumfm__hPkxnuh0sPV_KwDpSQQf2SbMSm75Oiorl5b8CHZdEqUzPl641dVX6P_8kOBh8MZg8EJ5OT7Q0Lb-EIxk_81fxqUfuF/s2048/IMG_2620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1331" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKJvCj_sxOsUwo3zvCeIgoT7IIdtPzcWOto9iCvur1zZfOumfm__hPkxnuh0sPV_KwDpSQQf2SbMSm75Oiorl5b8CHZdEqUzPl641dVX6P_8kOBh8MZg8EJ5OT7Q0Lb-EIxk_81fxqUfuF/s320/IMG_2620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Thursday. Cleaning day so we departed for the allotted time, at least two hours.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walked to Boulenc for a bite to eat. Interesting interaction with one of the wait staff who didn’t seem eager to pay attention to our ordering. Also reinforced the notion that pizzas cannot be ordered anywhere in the city before 2:00 p.m.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Fortified with food we wandered back to the mercado to buy fruits and vegetables before heading back home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Today is the day Marge arrived from WI. Taxied to the airport to meet her plane then a collectivo taxi back once she had changed her dollars into Pesos. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Also met Pat McAfee’s in-laws who arrived on a slightly earlier flight. Plans to get together for coffee sometime on Monday to talk a bit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Otherwise out the door in the morning for breakfast and begin Marge’s intro to Oaxaca.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 52 - Week 8 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_VLylqF5DOEnXMxJLtHxcjRiWZkSURE0lP0NJ5R7N9k_YuDPifAAdybQlySsaiadGHQxWLdKgPP-C_bGs_rUbrIJT_ByPG-gxVw28ZhMYNpdIpQYydFdbw15sB68AusISYFdKKyBOA3S5/s2048/IMG_5717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1548" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_VLylqF5DOEnXMxJLtHxcjRiWZkSURE0lP0NJ5R7N9k_YuDPifAAdybQlySsaiadGHQxWLdKgPP-C_bGs_rUbrIJT_ByPG-gxVw28ZhMYNpdIpQYydFdbw15sB68AusISYFdKKyBOA3S5/s320/IMG_5717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>By 9:00am we were having breakfast at La Rambla with Marge. Carol still is feeling a bit punk but after breakfast we did a slow walk up to Llan Park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We walked our way over to the Alcala, poking heads into shops like Copal. Slowly worked our way down to the Zocalo then eventually back to the apartment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Meanwhile made arrangements with Jorge to be picked up in the evening to go listen to Raúl at Bellissima Restaurant on Calle Luis Echeverria, across from the Instituto Technológico de Oaxaca (soccer field). Stayed for two sets. The second set included Jorge being invited to sing a few songs, one which he dedicated to me. Didn’t get back to the apartment until almost midnight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 53 - Week 8 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1zf5ZJN3FUPBL8cWu9pzJX4A2f5r8t3wunE07m3VG5ILFd5Nw7G-wFdNe73ZNJpk2bI0Cz5u9TqTDRitfbu5jV1T0upmRPsMMmHaP442sX4CdUH15auVeO80T8Y-THiDiAnS22qvMYqp/s2048/IMG_5694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1386" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1zf5ZJN3FUPBL8cWu9pzJX4A2f5r8t3wunE07m3VG5ILFd5Nw7G-wFdNe73ZNJpk2bI0Cz5u9TqTDRitfbu5jV1T0upmRPsMMmHaP442sX4CdUH15auVeO80T8Y-THiDiAnS22qvMYqp/s320/IMG_5694.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Walked to the Mercado; stopped at a few shops, museums; coffee at a hotel; walked past Boulenc; a few more shops; stopped at Wearable Arts; visted Luiz; watched a wedding; lunch at Berlina’s; got caught up watching another wedding; mezcal tasting at the mercado; Choco mios, then back home. Only three of us at happy hour as some folks are sick while others are out with other plans.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 54 - Week 8 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLK7MLBLiWu63NU7N9x8GkWRo3Qkq5EZ_1Mpw5dc-RgBdogsZBTOW9L_WjspcIqWRQp4w6OU3H8g2uT7exuugK8-ungbBKBWLhmfqRDT8aefESLWi1PHaEEv7gNXCdHSRVfTzQHlW1A26E/s2048/IMG_4728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1522" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLK7MLBLiWu63NU7N9x8GkWRo3Qkq5EZ_1Mpw5dc-RgBdogsZBTOW9L_WjspcIqWRQp4w6OU3H8g2uT7exuugK8-ungbBKBWLhmfqRDT8aefESLWi1PHaEEv7gNXCdHSRVfTzQHlW1A26E/s320/IMG_4728.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Another change of plans day. Initially we were to take a bus to Tlacolula, a large market day “Día de Plaza”. Local artisans and of course the smell and taste of the food was the draw.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Initially we were to travel with three of our neighbors but one by one, they dropped out. Two with conflicting travels plans and a third due to illness. And as it turne dout, one of the two with travel conflicts wound up breaking her wrist (shoulda gone to the market…)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Once learning that the bus ride would take an hour and a half - or a taxi ride costing $600 Pesos - we opted to instead attend the Sunday morning local bird walk. And as it turned out, we did a return trip to San Felipe where we again found a Oaxaca Sparrow plus added four more bird to our Oaxaca bird list.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Returning in early afternoon we stopped at Marco Polo for a bite to eat and margaritas to celebrate Marge getting three life birds. That turned out to be a mistake as we were overcharged for our food plus after having margaritas so early in the day really wiped us out. Naps all around. But we still made it to Happy Hour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 55 - Week 8 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlauhC6Vn64sa65ixvJomQxr2g7MfEoir67dRcyDyK1E1veBlzovSxeutuhlc2HwOOpg2JoIAuy_kOI2A3BX8JJLfYY-6CsgxxH23MGVGW_YfoLwk_15Nw63URFekvdsuakK9UtBU8CXmz/s2048/IMG_5814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1308" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlauhC6Vn64sa65ixvJomQxr2g7MfEoir67dRcyDyK1E1veBlzovSxeutuhlc2HwOOpg2JoIAuy_kOI2A3BX8JJLfYY-6CsgxxH23MGVGW_YfoLwk_15Nw63URFekvdsuakK9UtBU8CXmz/s320/IMG_5814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">This morning we agreed to meet Susanne and Charlie for coffee. Started out at 8:30 meeting in front of Santa Domingo then walked to the Nuevo Mundo Cafe for coffee. After Susanne and Charlie headed off, we stayed for breakfast. Also decided that instead of Marco Polo, we would bring the birding group to Nuevo Mundo where the food, service is better.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Spent the rest of the morning shopping and sightseeing with a little people watching in the Zocola thrown in before heading home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 56 - Week 8 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>At 8:00am we flagged a taxi for a ride out to Bosque el Tequio, a birding spot near the airport. Added four new birds to the Oaxaca list and got Marge some life birds as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walked to the bus stop for a bus back to the apartment. Deciding on where ot eat lunch while Marge and Carol walk to Chedraui for a few food supplies.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-40536726341022613992020-12-15T08:26:00.003-08:002020-12-15T10:04:07.503-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Week 7<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>2/26/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 43 - Week 7 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHwJgYKtzJ905p_Kc4vyfxgp4XLAlkSV1w60Vs32A-PFhCS0EDB9oNKSGr7Q_lBykd0dUxgkvCUng4Vcw_SKkpBkVphc_6Ps3Kg2zRP-gKdx5oV1j1t_Cdjad-N1rcHAAcOmMBOzLQciq/s2048/IMG_5563.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2001" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHwJgYKtzJ905p_Kc4vyfxgp4XLAlkSV1w60Vs32A-PFhCS0EDB9oNKSGr7Q_lBykd0dUxgkvCUng4Vcw_SKkpBkVphc_6Ps3Kg2zRP-gKdx5oV1j1t_Cdjad-N1rcHAAcOmMBOzLQciq/s320/IMG_5563.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">This morning started off with a local phone call. The caller spoke in Spanish but when I said that our Spanish is not good, he switched to English. Unfortunately it was a bad connection. Still unable to understand I apologized and ended the call.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">An hour later, Patty, one of our neighbors at Villa Maria knocked on our door to say that there was a man, a Mexican, who wanted to see us. There’s somewhat of an unwritten rule that when someone wants to get into the complex and you don’t know them, you first check with the people the visitor is wishing to see. As it turned out, it was someone I did know - from 30 years ago. It was Jorge, another member of Canto Nuevo.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">During our first visit with Jaime, we had tried to get together but Jorge was out of town at that time. But here he was, in the flesh! Plus he speaks English very well!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">He invited us to have breakfast with him on Sunday morning and to meet his family. We talked for about a half hour before he had to leave for work - he works at a local university helping Mexicans learn English.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">I learned that he’s still in touch with other members of the band and would I like to meet them? Yes! He’s going to try and arrange a time and also said that three of the former members still play in other groups in Oaxaca. Very much looking forward to meeting them/hearing them perform. Jorge still plays the guitar but pretty much just for his family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">I’d asked Antonia if she had song titles for all the music Jaime had given us. Yes, she did - but it entailed her emailing the entire set of songs which when they arrived, most had titles. Only four lacked titles - perhaps Jorge will remember.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Unfortunately we both seem to have acquired a cough - hopefully not the start of a cold. To that end we’re restricting ourselves form spending time with others at Villa Maria.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 44 - Week 7 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAUHpja-KzBeLbAqu8OIntDZ4niqkLExxq6LVPuXwbMNyCWx21CRBQWsr97Rmy7mKle4x2WdQ1kLPZn88idhxhXnKOda1ARzxKio_jvo1aJHRDE1IfKjso4DYOpMjQKqinE3J8ji5KOPe/s2048/IMG_4976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1416" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAUHpja-KzBeLbAqu8OIntDZ4niqkLExxq6LVPuXwbMNyCWx21CRBQWsr97Rmy7mKle4x2WdQ1kLPZn88idhxhXnKOda1ARzxKio_jvo1aJHRDE1IfKjso4DYOpMjQKqinE3J8ji5KOPe/s320/IMG_4976.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Today being Thursday we’re having to vacate the apartment for a few hours while it’s being cleaned. Still have a cough so don’t want to overexert. Perhaps sit in a couple of parks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Trying to contact Hans Ternes but having little luck. His only email address, his LU address, bounced with a “mailbox full” error. No other contact info at Lawrence although I suspect the business office has an address and phone number. But I no longer have access. A search online via FB did produce the fact he has an account but the last time he posted anything was 2014. I messaged him but holding out little hope he pays attention. I did a search through White Pages and discovered him living in Venice, FL with a couple of active phone numbers. I’ll try calling at some point. Jorge had asked if I had contact info for him so perhaps I’ll just pass the numbers along to Jorge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Starting another jigsaw puzzle. Probably the last before we leave since Marge will be here in a week and we’ll need the space on the table!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The young White-winged Doves look about ready to fledge. Thought they would be off the nest by yesterday but they’re still hanging on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Departed the apartment for a leisurely stroll up “X” street to Llano Park to bask in the sun. A bit of a cool front moving through so choosing a bench in the sun made more sense.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Trying to decide whether to get a healthy smoothie, or, perhaps some slices of pizza. It was never a contest. Alas, the coffee shop that we’ve talked about getting pizza slices hadn’t made their pizzas yet. Not until 2:00pm and here it was not even 1:00pm. But too late - with pizzas on the brain we set about to find another pizza joint. Again, with no luck.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Apparently pizzas aren’t made until later in the day. How uncivilized (and no, Dominoes was out of the question). So how about some wings? Completely embarrassed we snuck into McCarthy’s Irish Pub where we shared an order of wings and a coke. Not our typical choice but hey, we’ve been in Mexico six weeks so a little non-Mexican fare is OK.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Besides, we met a young couple who were actors having just finished their last production (improv) and were breaking for lunch before catching their bus home. Nice couple and as it turned out the young man was a rabid Packer fan! He immediately noticed my Packer wallet logo when I went to pay our bill. You just never know…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Our colds have seemed to have taken a bigger hold.So much so that we opted to skip happy hour not wishing to pass anything along. Late afternoon we made a visit to the local supermarket to pickup some meds. An evening of coughing but hopefully things are quieting down a bit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 45 - Week 7 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">One more day of feeling punk and skipping happy hour. I stayed in while Carol went shopping. An inexpensive set of earrings to replace lost earrings. And a new top.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">That’s about it for Friday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 46 - Week 7 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OWwmdW19lmYMkksUuKeNLdQ_gYcZxqHmjFbPiZd0yNsU0Qj6tSMljkcmmZiFlGZa0N_Ht3cnUOjOtb6SZvYlOATFYpiDHst4YWOnsxxNe-QCnUnvW2M1ukZOeU1BmzZHGGDPqQpFnwQd/s3470/IMG_4158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3470" data-original-width="2823" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OWwmdW19lmYMkksUuKeNLdQ_gYcZxqHmjFbPiZd0yNsU0Qj6tSMljkcmmZiFlGZa0N_Ht3cnUOjOtb6SZvYlOATFYpiDHst4YWOnsxxNe-QCnUnvW2M1ukZOeU1BmzZHGGDPqQpFnwQd/s320/IMG_4158.jpg" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A leap year February. After a night of lots of coughing and sleeping in separate bedrooms, again, I’m feeling better whereas Carol, who was feeling better yesterday - at least enough better to go shopping - is worse today.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">By noon we simply had to get out for a short while. Off to La Rambla for a late breakfast. Had hoped to find a place which served just soup but La Rambla is always a good place in any event.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Hopefully, we’ll be in better spirits for breakfast out tomorrow morning with Jorge. Our late breakfast means nothing big for dinner - tea and some chocolate. But probably no happy hour again. Update: We did do happy hour and it was fine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 47 - Week 7 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-CiB88gRodS2fEXhJur3vUZv2ruLLfr2I3PeKoXwgbSxA2SVmlyf1Myl9bwaH6AEDfEI2lCTnjheOwG6e4hnbLklEkguBA9uXm6eP8EtGHn9p8yfNa2tubZpyDB-wUs3KrHU-sN_ke6W/s2048/IMG_3305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1274" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-CiB88gRodS2fEXhJur3vUZv2ruLLfr2I3PeKoXwgbSxA2SVmlyf1Myl9bwaH6AEDfEI2lCTnjheOwG6e4hnbLklEkguBA9uXm6eP8EtGHn9p8yfNa2tubZpyDB-wUs3KrHU-sN_ke6W/s320/IMG_3305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">It’s now officially March. The month Marge arrives and our bird tour takes place. But before then, much more to see and do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">This morning began when Jorge, his wife Ophelia, and daughter Rosio, picked us up and drove us to Casa Oaxaca in Reforma (not far from the large Chedraui) to join his son, Jorge, his son’s wife, Mene, and their daughter Valentina for breakfast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Jorge, jr. and Rosio speak very good English and we spent a couple of hours eating, chatting, and learning how to eat imaginary pizzas that Valentina was making and selling.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Afterward, Jorge borrowed his daughter’s car and drove us out to the pueblo of San Augustín Etla to visit the Centro De Las Artes De San Augustín, or locally simply known as “CaSa”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A former textile factory, <i>Fabrica de Hilados y Tejidos La Soledad</i> (La Soledad Yarns and Fabrics Factory) was founded in 1883. It was abandoned less than a century after its inception.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">In 2000, visionary artist Francisco Toledo spearheaded an initiative to turn the then-derelict building into an ecological arts center for the arts, which opened in 2006. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Complete with post-industrial architectural touches and a pleasing color palette of Mexican terra-cotta hues, water features, gardens, and abandoned industrial machinery dot the complex. The pools surrounding the building are part of a gravity-powered water system that cools the roof as well as supplies water to a paper-making workshop further down the hill.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The massive lower hall of the main building is used as a gallery for craft and art exhibitions. The upper floor is a setting for concerts, conferences, and many other events.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">There is a small museum with a current exhibition, “Voces que nacen del subsuelo”, (“Voices that are born from the underground”). Potter Rufina Ruiz López created a compilation of contemporary works of art inspired by what was previously done in Santa María Atzompa (Atzompa has been a major producer of pottery since the Monte Alban period).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">They main building house spaces for interpretative and visual art installations and learning as well as temporary living quarters for students and artists. The terraces are great places to appreciate the surrounding mountain landscapes. next to the refurbished factory is a large stately church which we found little information about.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Returning to Oaxaca central we met up with Jorge’s daughter, Rosio, to go for a beer and what turned out to be a light late lunch at Consejo Cervecero, a well known beer tasting room. The “Boy Stout” was good as was the hamburger Carol and I shared.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQXghGLbODh0KDYc78NiKEw7hJufWr9C6H_eH55S29n0Hc39eAWKycj2RAa7mvjv-wYbFA6ctIdzduJpeTxoljFFgmxffL6VbcBVtyfhU6TjpwcQMD7TGwDJjFckU98YPw6_fkuaNqPTW/s2048/IMG_5671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1386" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQXghGLbODh0KDYc78NiKEw7hJufWr9C6H_eH55S29n0Hc39eAWKycj2RAa7mvjv-wYbFA6ctIdzduJpeTxoljFFgmxffL6VbcBVtyfhU6TjpwcQMD7TGwDJjFckU98YPw6_fkuaNqPTW/s320/IMG_5671.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">But we were still not done. After a brief conversation on his phone, Jorge beckoned us back to the car to drive a short distance to a home in Reforma. This turned out to belong to former Canto Nuevo members Pepe (Hector Jaime’s brother) and his wife Lety. Again, reintroduced after 30 years it was like only yesterday that we had first met.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Pepe brought out his guitar and the evening turned out to be a songfest with Pepe, Jorge and Lety singing several folk tunes. At one point Lety served some very fine mezcal - and the music continued. We have to say this was wholly unexpected but certainly a highlight of our time in Oaxaca. They only sing for their family these days so we felt very honored.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Jorge is going to try and contact the last remaining member of the band who had played at LU - Raul, a retired physician who is still playing with a local group.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 48 - Week 7 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">For whatever reason, last night was very fitful. Lots of coughing. This morning awoke feeling overly tired. To that end we walked to Chedraui to try and pickup some more over-the-counter cold medication like NyQuil.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Mexico doesn’t have NyQuil but there is an equivalent which we purchased (both daytime and nighttime). We’ll see if that helps.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Otherwise spent the day close to home reading, a new jigsaw puzzle, and generally laying low.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 49 - Week 7 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Tuesday and another slow day. Retrieved money from an ATM, finished reading another book, happy hour (although Carol didn’t feel up to it). Very uneventful day.</span></span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-41146566020738904242020-12-15T08:24:00.009-08:002020-12-15T09:57:09.830-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Week 6<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>2/19/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 36 - Week 6 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaeuTUbD9JhowXRoa2AJYYcGkeJ-V1IXLi6DdIis8K-2IlIx1IB6snsNHfah8wTZ2u6MhAgGfUVUF_K74yvMhoaXg_npmcKQbGihuJLtx9b6KjTTCsVZgl552vaf3s4jivAQHyYv_jrzKz/s2048/IMG_2819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1556" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaeuTUbD9JhowXRoa2AJYYcGkeJ-V1IXLi6DdIis8K-2IlIx1IB6snsNHfah8wTZ2u6MhAgGfUVUF_K74yvMhoaXg_npmcKQbGihuJLtx9b6KjTTCsVZgl552vaf3s4jivAQHyYv_jrzKz/s320/IMG_2819.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Wednesday, a day when no street vendors are allowed on the streets. As a result, we find things that we otherwise might have missed owing to less street activity (i.e., distractions). One such place is the Institute of Graphic Arts of Oaxaca (IAGO), a museum-library, created by the painter Francisco Toledo. Inaugurated in November 1988, it’s located in an 18th century house, donated to the National Institute of Fine Arts (INBA) by the Toledo family, located in front of the former Convent of Santo Domingo on the Alcalá. (Note: How often do we see the plaza in the front of the church absent of people!? Not Very!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">It has five exhibition rooms, three reading rooms, a central courtyard decorated with plants, a cafeteria, and a restaurant service specializing in typical dishes of Oaxaca cuisine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The collection contains more than twelve thousand volumes covering topics of painting, sculpture, architecture, bibliophilia, poetry, narrative, essay, children's and youth literature, industrial and graphic design, archeology, photography, cinematography, textiles, ceramics, folk art. While the collection is focused on Latin America, a good portion of the collection covers artists worldwide.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The collection is constantly updated. Works on music, dance and theater, and twenty-five subscriptions to magazines specialized in art and literature are available through services of internal and home lending, open shelving, consultation, computer data bank, newspaper library, photocopies and a cineclub. A collection of more than 600 VHS format video movies with regular cinema showings are regularly scheduled. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The public can select and take the materials for themselves and, if required, receive individual attention from librarians. Guided tours to tourist and school groups, upon request. It periodically organizes keynote conferences, workshops and courses. It also publishes catalogs of exhibitions, posters, postcards and books with its own in-house graphics and print shop.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We still find streets we’ve not visited and a small parks like Jadín Conzatti, a few blocks west of Llano Park. We suspect there are even more so we keep searching.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back to the apartment, happy hour, some light reading then to bed. By the way, the coffee we purchased at the small coffee shop next to La Rambla has been terrific.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 37 - Week 6 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEXyNNK2Xa69MxLhPYurxl8F6pzy-VvLIBJsx8ClvhNHX41t4w7fYckkZ4b2_DFFo6ACc4PDjfLmU35j7dDlmAxzJBJsj03tPxT_h2LBco2V058IdoTuJYmqCmkqZsmmEsNzPcmuJO_9U/s2048/IMG_4285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEXyNNK2Xa69MxLhPYurxl8F6pzy-VvLIBJsx8ClvhNHX41t4w7fYckkZ4b2_DFFo6ACc4PDjfLmU35j7dDlmAxzJBJsj03tPxT_h2LBco2V058IdoTuJYmqCmkqZsmmEsNzPcmuJO_9U/s320/IMG_4285.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Cleaning day again but we have a plan. Visit another cafe noted for its comida dia prices. Another recommendation by a neighbor, Santo Sabor. But as usual, our cleaning starts at 11:30 but the restaurant doesn’t start serving the daily special until 1:00pm so there’s time to kill.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We needed more cash so we walked to the ATM we’ve use din the past. Then needing another loaf of bread, we walked to Boulenc - but as long as we were there, a cup of coffee and a large slice of fresh baked sourdough bread and blackberry jam seemed in order.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Bread in hand we walked to the Zocala to observe people, then made our way to Santo Sabor. Thing is, walking from point A to point B (and often points C, D, E, etc.) we get easily distracted. Like stopping again to checkout anything new at the Centro Cultural San Pablo. A handful of new photographs were inspirational plus the small chapel connected to the building.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A small dog on the third floor of the library was sitting along the glassed wall overlooking the courtyard. For whatever reason it felt compelled to stare at me. When I pointed the dog out to Carol - literally pointing up at the small creature - it began barking. Barking dog in a library? The owner quickly came to quite the dog (looked like it was a reference librarian).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">While the owner of the cafe Santo Sabor was most helpful, and the cream of carrot and broccoli soup was wonderful, overall, it was bland. Not like the lunch we had at La Taviche.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">In the evening after happy hour, and still full from lunch, while Carol settled for a slice of bread and I for some cookies and tea, we heard a loud bang and a scream from our neighbor downstairs. We rushed down, knocked on her door and found her somewhat dazed. She had lit - or thought she had lit - her gas oven to heat up a meal. When she found it unlit, she attempted to relight not taking into account a small build up of gas. Boom! Slightly burned her hand which she put into iced water. Happily, nothing more serious. Odd, though, that no other neighbors came out to investigate?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 38 - Week 6 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ15ZUaGUSKRpV1LruOtPaZqK-4NWZrmWBWFXae7dalZd_utcCuldHPGvuA-3Ha264Dod8DXJJgQ4u7QKue8J-pDisMeOyk7LNLTtGCemQC0leAcNUlxtCstR9KrCpMrHMIihVbY046fUV/s2048/IMG_3240-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ15ZUaGUSKRpV1LruOtPaZqK-4NWZrmWBWFXae7dalZd_utcCuldHPGvuA-3Ha264Dod8DXJJgQ4u7QKue8J-pDisMeOyk7LNLTtGCemQC0leAcNUlxtCstR9KrCpMrHMIihVbY046fUV/s320/IMG_3240-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Not much cooking today. A grumbly stomach kept me at home in the morning while Carol went out to explore a bit on her own. She did a FaceTime with Melissa showing her some of the sights and sounds of downtown.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">I managed to get out later in the day to pick up some Coke plus a short walk through the Acola where an annual workshop promoting the sixteen known ethnic dialects from surrounding pueblos and barrios in Oaxaca. Several artisans were setup along the area selling local arts indigenous to their areas.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Happy hour, a light dinner, then off to bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 39 - Week 6 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGgVOO5UW2aFJxjhi-6noqA6qEJMoDXvSRJ3OrEflfk5-0VdMdBPvIir0q8eawV31FscV8lfvcZSXdDPM-cEHQTNIE5MBBrPsfP5r90qSYhNTMWNQJHnHTRx3WSfGPEILCXMXyj6ncvs0/s2048/IMG_5312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1163" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGgVOO5UW2aFJxjhi-6noqA6qEJMoDXvSRJ3OrEflfk5-0VdMdBPvIir0q8eawV31FscV8lfvcZSXdDPM-cEHQTNIE5MBBrPsfP5r90qSYhNTMWNQJHnHTRx3WSfGPEILCXMXyj6ncvs0/s320/IMG_5312.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Central de Abasto or also known as Mercado de Abasto. Oaxaca’s largest market. We walked over this morning to discover a glorious mass of controlled shopping chaos with something for everyone. Vegetables, meat, flowers, leather products, clothing, baskets, pottery…aisles and aisles and aisles that seem to go on forever. And ringing the area is a massive flea market. Glad we visited but we don’t have to go back. But the glorious sounds, smells, colors…it was all so overwhelming! Bought a red onion and a small cantaloupe, then walked back over to have breakfast at La Rambla.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Carnival is a significant event preceding Ash Wednesday in about 225 communities in Mexico, many of these, especially in the smaller communities, maintain elements from Mexico's religious and indigenous heritage. Celebrations vary widely from region to region, often with traditional dance, music and ceremonies with both pagan and Christian origins. Municipalities compete against each other in dance and for best costume with people dressing as monkeys, death, devils, women and even extraterrestrials. One unique costume to the area is the Cuernudo, which is a mix between a monkey and a devil.<span style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><sup> </sup></span>Dancers, restricted to men, dress and use charcoal (a very greasy black composition as we learned first hand the next day) made up to look like the coastal area's Afro Mexican population.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Our local celebration took place on Saturday in Oaxaca central. It began at 5:00 in the afternoon a few blocks north of the Santa Domingo Church. A raucous procession snaked down the Alcalá, the pedestrian walkway, through throngs of onlookers, eventually ending in the town’s central plaza. Several area pueblos competed, each with their own banners and bands and dancers, dressed in costumes representative of their pueblo. At one point I did a FaceTime with Jennie and Bob to give them some idea of the celebration (hopefully the connection was fast enough for them).</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: helvetica;">We attended Carnival with two of our neighbors, Val and Barb, stopping to first attend a rooftop social market at the Casa de Barro Terraza where we had a beer at the Tapas Bar & Restaurant, then following up with mezcal Margaritas and an order of ceviche at Maguey & Maiz Restaurant before walking back home amid Oaxaca’s nightlife.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 40 - Week 6 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtM0wXvtSPsdXyfJFpiqaoEmDbwSyqervJiKn0NFQIScTxUotETPNSuiKip4gOB6d_I_Tz9qBhvndpmz9-5pWlByUMLvzuMIto4W4pncshDEA6LRpJJJdsYwH9SbpCj7eS7M7-8bfQexn8/s2048/IMG_5389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1851" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtM0wXvtSPsdXyfJFpiqaoEmDbwSyqervJiKn0NFQIScTxUotETPNSuiKip4gOB6d_I_Tz9qBhvndpmz9-5pWlByUMLvzuMIto4W4pncshDEA6LRpJJJdsYwH9SbpCj7eS7M7-8bfQexn8/s320/IMG_5389.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Sunday turned out to be an extraordinarily busy and eventful day most easily described in two parts.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The first part began with an early walk to the Oaxaca’s ethnobotanical garden to attend a bird banding session conducted by Edgar del Valle, a master bander and local bird guide. Arriving at just before 7:00a.m. we checked in with the guard at the main gate, then on to the designated banding station area. The first to arrive we had a little time to bird, thrilled to be inside the gardens which are restricted access. We also was witness to several workers tearing down tables, tents and large umbrellas, the remnants of a wedding the day before. It’s not at all uncommon for spaces inside the gardens to be used for large events. We’ve learned that the cost of such events - like this wedding - runs into the 10’s of thousands of dollars (USD). Only the well-heeled can afford such expenses. Unfortunately, it’s the government of Oaxaca that controls the space rentals with most if not all the rent money going to the government and not to the gardens (which explains why the garden bathrooms cannot even afford ot be stocked with toilet paper). Such an injustice!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Another birder from Ontario arrived, then Edgar appeared with an assistant, Santiago. They had been setting up the mist nets. As more people arrived we recognized some of them as birders we’d met earlier during our stay. Edgar set up a small table, brought in folding chairs and then we headed off to check the mist nets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">There were five nets, each numbered. At each net Edgar and some of his banding students, removed netted birds which were placed in cloth bags. Attendees - that’s us - were handed bagged birds with the instruction to remember which numbered net the bird had been collected. After checking all the nets, we returned to the banding station set up in a corner of the gardens.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Each bird was taken from a bag in the order they were netted starting with net number one. Birds were inspected for age, gender and body fat. If they were recaptures - birds that previously had been banded - the band number was noted. If the bird was to receive a band, the bird’s leg was measured for which band size was appropriate. The new band number was read off, logged, and attached to the bird’s right leg. Then the bird was weighed before being released. All data gathered will eventually wind up at a central data collection site in Costa Rica.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Over the course of the morning we accompanied Edgar and the students to retrieve birds from the nets numerous times. Edgar was more than willing to answer any and all questions about the process. The best - or most interesting - bird recorded? A Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher. At least until this morning.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">During our second round checking nets, Edgar suddenly rushed toward net number one where a Crested Cara had become entangled. A large bird, it could have easily destroyed the fine mesh netting. Fortunately, Edgar was able to retrieve the bird before the net sustained any real damage. This was the first time a Cara Cara had been netted by Edgar’s team! To calm the bird, it was hooded bird with one of the larger of the small bags and taken back for inspection. using a couple of references, it was determined to be an adult female in good health. Unfortunately, Edgar didn’t have any bands large enough to band the Cara Cara and it was eventually released without a band.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Over the course of the morning numerous Nashville Warblers, Yellow-rumped Warblers and House Sparrows were netted. A single Norther Beardless-Tyrannulet, Inca Dove, Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, and Social Flycatcher. A couple of Clay-colored Thrush and two Warbling Vireos. Edgar had said that the local population of House Sparrows seemed to be in decline so even banding them could possibly help provide useful data.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Both Beryline and Dusky Hummingbirds were netted but not banded due to the birds having such short and delicate legs. As such there is a much smaller number of certified hummingbird banders - Edgar is not among them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Close to noon, we left the banding session which was due to wind down soon owing to the heat of the day. We’d received a message that our friends Hector and Toni had arrived from Veracruz the night before and were to meet us at the front of Santa Domingo Church.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Sunday’s second part began at Noon when we met Jaime and Toni in front of Santa Domingo Church as we had earlier in the month. We spoke a little about the banding session but we were more interested in hearing about their day. We were also hungry so we suggested getting some lunch, we learned they had already eaten a late breakfast - but they would like a cup of coffee.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Jaime was also excited when he handed over a thumb drive. On the drive were recordings of Canto Nuevo! Of course unable to listen to anything immediately, I tucked the drive in my pocket as we headed off in the direction of of favorite Sunday go to spot - Berlina’s. There we introduced Jaime and Toni to Eric as we ordered a Reuben sandwich to split - Jaime and Toni had coffee.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #1a1a1a; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #1a1a1a; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyuMVBFTcW0iC_f2s45R8ajoI-hUDMMDjG3Vs6LuwGJw3bo0UO24qWm9h2HZmHS6_KjB4iBEogL4URVse96bvRgQIBwAVF6Z6Vo0IaT7ul85ub5wamUcD7_oymJbJJvMToJaA05xJFFRZ/s2048/IMG_2984+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyuMVBFTcW0iC_f2s45R8ajoI-hUDMMDjG3Vs6LuwGJw3bo0UO24qWm9h2HZmHS6_KjB4iBEogL4URVse96bvRgQIBwAVF6Z6Vo0IaT7ul85ub5wamUcD7_oymJbJJvMToJaA05xJFFRZ/s320/IMG_2984+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Afterwards we walked downtown to pick up some mezcal they had ordered as Jaime went to retrieve their car. The mezcal, it turned out, came in beautifully decorated bottles. And perfect timing - just as Toni paid for the mezcal, Jaime arrived to pick us up to begin a journey to a few places they had wanted to share with us.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">First stop was in the town of San Bartolo Coyotopec. San Bartolo is a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zapotec_peoples"><span style="color: #092f9d;">Zapotec</span></a> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community"><span style="color: #092f9d;">community</span></a>, which has been making <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pottery"><span style="color: #092f9d;">pottery</span></a> for about 2,000 years. The clay of this area produces a distinctive color, which for most of San Bartolo's history was a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey"><span style="color: #092f9d;">Grey</span></a> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gloss_(material_appearance)"><span style="color: #092f9d;">matte</span></a>. This clay has been used to produce utilitarian objects such as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jar"><span style="color: #092f9d;">jars</span></a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dishware"><span style="color: #092f9d;">dishes</span></a> and other storage containers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The most important innovation to the crafty of the pottery was is a polishing method devised by ceramic artist and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pottery"><span style="color: #092f9d;">potter</span></a> Doña Rosa in the 1950s. Doña Rosa discovered that by polishing the nearly dry clay before firing, the gray color turned to a shiny black.<span style="color: #092f9d; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><sup> </sup></span>This has made the pottery far more popular, and many pieces are produced now for decorative purposes rather than utilitarian.<span style="color: #092f9d; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><sup> </sup></span>Since then, the aesthetic qualities of "barro negro" (black clay) pottery has become further appreciated due to the work of artisan-sculpture Carlomagno Pedro Martinez, who has displayed his barro negro work nationally and internationally.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The two of the main attractions for the town are Mercado Artesanal (Crafts Market) filled mostly with barro negro pottery and the <i>Museo Estatal de Arte Popular de Oaxaca</i> (State Museum of Popular Art of Oaxaca). We didn’t visit the latter but we did walk through the small market. This is a market few tourists take the time to visit. A shame because, as they say, we were seeing crafts straight form the horse/s mouth, so to speak. And at prices far below what we’ve seen in Oaxaca central shops.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The town has is a small well manicured park and across the street, the San Bartolo Coyotepec Church and a 16th-century Dominican convent. Interesting note about the Catholic Church - it has no priest. In 1997, Father Manuel Marinero announced that he was in love with a member of the parish church. The Catholic Church responded by immediately putting an end to Marinero's 24-year career as a priest.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">However, the local community has continued to support him as their spiritual leader. The people still call him "Padre" (Father) and he continues to live in the house that has been traditionally reserved for parish priests with his wife and two children. The Church has asked him to move but the house belongs to the town and the residents want him to stay.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">On the day we visited, there was a “quinceanera” taking place. A special ceremony when a Latina girl turns 15. Derived from the Spanish words for "fifteen years," the expression "quinceanera" refers to both the celebration and to the young lady herself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Moving on we continued to the pueblo of San Martin Tilcajete, a traditional and historically <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zapotec_peoples"><span style="color: #092f9d;">Zapotec</span></a> village, best known for its production of “<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alebrije"><span style="color: #092f9d;">alebrijes</span></a>,” iconic Oaxaca wood carvings of real or fantastic creatures painted in bright colors and intricate patterns on carvings from the copol tree. Here we were introduced to a family that are good friends of Jaime and Toni. We were welcomed into their workshop to view their works.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #1a1a1a; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #1a1a1a; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRaPG3LPR1IikDpORh2JTVmpsUaorTlU-8YAwAdKJgMQN9PfAapdX5F_fjWHXBtfa-FZBxsaw80DNhZVwhpYgfu4JiTh787oOW9WoXqr6lXr5ctDzZ7NtkRmbu2cBb5H77yuabqWVZAK0i/s1771/87185204_3369065119787351_7173308331711266816_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1340" data-original-width="1771" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRaPG3LPR1IikDpORh2JTVmpsUaorTlU-8YAwAdKJgMQN9PfAapdX5F_fjWHXBtfa-FZBxsaw80DNhZVwhpYgfu4JiTh787oOW9WoXqr6lXr5ctDzZ7NtkRmbu2cBb5H77yuabqWVZAK0i/s320/87185204_3369065119787351_7173308331711266816_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Since this is also a time of Carnival, a local custom is for young men to smear motor oil on their bodies, don fearsome masks, and run around the streets looking for girls, trying to kiss or smear oil on them. Wearing masks and brandishing whips, with cowbells wrapped around their waists, they can seem quite menacing. But as we learned, it’s all in good fun and spirits - just don’t get too close or you’ll wind up with motor oil on your face, clothing and hands! It’s a devil of a time to remove!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Stopping on our way our of town (while attempting to avoid any further direct contact with the oil covered demons) I wanted to take a few photos of murals. Meanwhile, Carol, Toni and Jaime had entered a shop where they found an elderly woman painting several alebijes she had carved. Stunning to say the least. But as we delved farther into the shop we discovered an amazing array of alebijes created by the woman’s son, Francisco Fabián Ojeda.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Unfortunately the taking of photographs is forbidden. But as we went even further into the shops courtyard, Carol fell in love with an alebije and I had to agree it was stunning. The young man tending the shop said the price for the piece was $2,000 Pesos (roughly $105 USD).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">After seeing what a piece like this sold for in Oaxaca, the price was reasonable but we didn’t have that kind of cash with us. As we balked at the price, the carver, Francisco appeared and the price was suddenly cut in half. Oh, and he took credit cars. Well, how could we refuse such an offer….along with his offering to share some mezcal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">In the end we made the purchase. While he was signing the piece, the young man ushered us into Francisco’s workshop where we viewed hundreds of carved alebijes waiting to be painted. The carvings were done by he and his mother.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We also learned that Francisco doesn’t sell his work in Oaxaca but mainly outside of Mexico. Judging from the number of photos on his wall with him posing with customers and varies pieces of work, he seemed quite content with his market.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">After carefully wrapping our carving, we bid a farewell and at the invitation of Toni and Jaime, we stopped at a local restaurant, Comodor Los Huamuches. It was a locals only stop where tourists rarely go. Toni and Jaime wanted us to experience the “real Oaxaca” and we most certainly did. All afternoon!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">On our way back to Oaxaca they asked if we wanted to stop to stop and see El Árbol del Tule (the Tree of Tule), a massive tree located in the church grounds in the town center of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Mar%C3%ADa_del_Tule"><span style="color: #092f9d;">Santa María del Tule</span></a>. It was on our bucket list of places to see so of course we enthusiastically said, “yes!”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">To say it’s a large tree is a major understatement. I don’t believe we’ve ever seen a larger tree. It is hard to photograph to get a proper perspective on just how large it towers over surrounding buildings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As the sun was setting, and the lights of the pueblo came on, there was a bit of a festive aire with families strolling through the gardens. What a delightful end to an amazing day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Jaime and Toni dropped us off well after dark at our apartment. We offered beers and wine but Jaime was already pretty tired so we said our farewells. We’ve extended an invitation to come visit us in Arizona and they may just be able to sometime next year in December. We certainly hope so. We’ll stay in touch.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: helvetica;">Imagine that 30 years ago that a week-long encounter with a music group from Oaxaca would have lead to such a friendship and all the experiences we’ve shared in Oaxaca with now dear friends, Jaime and Toni!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 41 - Week 6 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Following a very long but satisfying day, time today was spent getting caught up on entering into the log, editing videos and photos, posting reports to our FB family and friends, and little else.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We did finish the latest jigsaw puzzle, and of course found time for happy hour. We’ve been invited to return to San Martin on Tuesday with some of our neighbors via bus but given how warm it will be and that the annual San Martin Carnival will be in full swing (i.e., crowds of people), we’re going to take a pass. Besides, we were just there the day before. And though it will be helpful to learn the bus route, we’re pretty sure we can do that by ourselves when Marge arrives should she want to go to San Martin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 42 - Week 6 </span><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Vk-8gJwaFGqJ1OcnDD4nh6px_kMjFq9dzex2Cj22ypJLeD4J7l510phtgDYlpQN1SlXcMoJxrFSLIiTHQ5YmgOowbDxb_Y61zyYVuKg0-GnZVeuEI7WuP4qhp-e6LVf3-qs_y0df30lQ/s2048/IMG_5542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1544" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Vk-8gJwaFGqJ1OcnDD4nh6px_kMjFq9dzex2Cj22ypJLeD4J7l510phtgDYlpQN1SlXcMoJxrFSLIiTHQ5YmgOowbDxb_Y61zyYVuKg0-GnZVeuEI7WuP4qhp-e6LVf3-qs_y0df30lQ/s320/IMG_5542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Skipping a revisit to San Martin we found ourselves out shopping for gifts for people back home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Finally found a t-shirt for Alric - one that is done on silk screen instead of all the shirts using an applique. Then a nice visit with our master weaver friend Luiz Martinez when we purchased a wall hanging for Chris and Robyn. Luiz was kind enough to give us a discount plus threw in a couple of small weavings suitable as drink mats.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Over to the Wearable Arts store (Marias Arte y Diseño) we found a nice set of locally made copitas - small clay cups for sipping mezcal or tequila made by La Chicharra Cerámica, for Jennie and Bob. Now all we need to do is buy some mezcal to go with the copitas.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">While at the store we witnessed a local artist painting a mural on an interior wall of the shop.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">By this time lunch was looming so we walked to Xiguel Cafe to sample trucha con jocoque (smoked trout) sandwiches. Carol had one using ciabattas while mine was a sandwich with whole wheat bread. Ginger ale to drink. The trout was fantastic and we would definitely have that again if given the choice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">This cafe is located in a different barrio, Jaliatilaco so of course we encountered more and different street murals. On our way back we stopped for some churros and some time sitting in the shade and cool breeze in Llano Park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back at the apartment Tom edited a video using one of Canto Nuevo’s songs (Samba de Lazano) along with photos from our time together with Jaime and Toni. Also finished editing other photos from our day out on Sunday afternoon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Happy hour, dinner, part of a movie then off to bed.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-192735118454693862020-12-15T08:23:00.010-08:002020-12-15T09:42:58.624-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Week 5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>2/12/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 29 - Week 5 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7T_kK9w4jpQdZ8vnCgwFpDTcoPcPf0OTVdm2xjj5fr0iGKjD7hm6FxJZPcrEVruni4_Tfvb-RIsAvdDplZU5Osso-kV8o2Ce2fDsV4UMYw5zNlsMi3a1udGlmRjsvBJTuXLYXeXAwNez/s2048/IMG_4987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7T_kK9w4jpQdZ8vnCgwFpDTcoPcPf0OTVdm2xjj5fr0iGKjD7hm6FxJZPcrEVruni4_Tfvb-RIsAvdDplZU5Osso-kV8o2Ce2fDsV4UMYw5zNlsMi3a1udGlmRjsvBJTuXLYXeXAwNez/s320/IMG_4987.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Simply had to get out and about. Today involved scaling steps to a few rooftop restaurants. Didn't eat at any (iced coffee and a Coke at one) but had some nice tours by staff as we're still scouting for some dinner spots for a few of our bird tour group who will be free for dinner one evening.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The rooftop restaurant at Los Amantes Hotel offered a nice view of Santa Domingo Church. It even had a hot tub. But it looked like more of a party spot in spite of the nice view. La Olla is a family owned restaurant offering organic foods and authentic Mexican cuisine. Reasonable prices and an attractive layout. And the mezcal margaritas looked good.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Terra Del Sol Restaurante was another rooftop experience but again, a bit pricy and some folks questioned the food - our neighbors when asked.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Why, we even found an Irish pub although a doubtful destination given that our guests will want Mexican fare. We’ll keep looking.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Apartment relaxation, happy hour, dinner and a movie (last half of The Martian) then on to bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 30 - Week 5 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5mG-4btNAvUAb_pi9ToexhWHiZeRoxXMYREBN1DqAWoNTMxQfT6NVOhf1b5CC7Gw1j5jFXY5Rye4IPFZa8F8v5sAf-nQbsGUyMHRO64xKKXTKTXdob1AvuU4WQCw9oMQxtNMSAAooAWMI/s2048/IMG_2614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1264" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5mG-4btNAvUAb_pi9ToexhWHiZeRoxXMYREBN1DqAWoNTMxQfT6NVOhf1b5CC7Gw1j5jFXY5Rye4IPFZa8F8v5sAf-nQbsGUyMHRO64xKKXTKTXdob1AvuU4WQCw9oMQxtNMSAAooAWMI/s320/IMG_2614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">It’s Thursday and Thursday means we have to vacate our apartment for the weekly cleaning that starts at 11:30. We’re never quite sure how long it takes but we know from past experiences we need to be out for at least two hours. Sometimes longer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Today our plan was to stop for lunch at La Taviche, a small cafe serving “la comida dia”, a three course meal consisting of a soup, an entree, and desert plus a beverage. The menu changes daily but the cost remains constant at $98 Pesos, about $5.50 USD. Several smaller cafes in town serve la comida dia making it very inexpensive to eat out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Since La Taviche doesn’t open until 1:00pm we busied ourselves with a walk to LLano Park, then a swing over to the Alcalá. We encountered a loud processional - a parade of sorts - that appeared to be celebrating “Princess 2020”. A young woman wearing a “Priness 2020” banner was accompanied by several dancers in costumes and a brass band.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We followed the dancers to the Zocala where we encountered dozens of young men all wearing straw hats. They were loading into dozens of pickup trucks, apparently winding down a peaceful protest. They were protesting mining in a nearby pueblo - mining which was going to pollute their water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Sitting on a park bench it was interesting to observe people streaming by. Street vendors, gringos, local business people…sometimes it’s just enough to sit and watch the world pass by.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">After lunch at La Taviche, we walked a bit further north checking out a few more restaurants for possible places for an evening meal with some of our bird tour guests.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Nearing Bloulenc, a restaurant that also has a bakery, we bought a loaf of sourdough bread, far better bread than what we can buy at the large supermarket. Also couldn’t resist buying a large brownie which would be our evening dessert with tea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">One restaurant that has impressed us with seating, ambiance, and ease of location is Maguey & Maiz just off the square at Santa Domingo. While we’ve not eaten here yet, we did stop for a “mezcalita” a Margarita using mezcal instead of tequila before heading back to the apartment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We’ve now been in Oaxaca for a little over five weeks. In that time we seen and experienced much of what the city has to offer. We’ve also managed to complete three jigsaw puzzles and finish reading a number of books including two by Clive Cussler (Valhala Rising, Medusa), one each by Steve Berry (The Maltese Exchange), Tom Clancy (The Cardinal of the Kremlin), and Nelsen Demille’s sequel to The Gold Coast (The Gate House). There is a small lending library here at Villa Maria which we’re going to have to checkout more closely. We’ll leave our books behind for others to enjoy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Happy hour turned out to be quite lively with 14 people. Claire and Jim’s son, Brian, is visiting for a week. Sometimes we do need a larger table on the rooftop. And more chairs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Evening meal was the rest of the lasagna and slices of sourdough. Started watching another movie “Dead Men Tell No Tales”, another of the Pirates of the Caribbean series. Unfortunately not able to stream either Acorn or BritBox in Mexico.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 31 - Week 5 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJkVlOEex7N8X9Xp4QndF04xH-mQRpROVA4O5_aRlssIAgmSkIPHF58aMRyjucOfKABywB9fjFtq2tN5SCiQvSa2q7Rv4E-XEisez_R4SG0H1LpOkkgO6OLktKtC2FroLL_V53KapS9ulI/s2048/IMG_4943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1333" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJkVlOEex7N8X9Xp4QndF04xH-mQRpROVA4O5_aRlssIAgmSkIPHF58aMRyjucOfKABywB9fjFtq2tN5SCiQvSa2q7Rv4E-XEisez_R4SG0H1LpOkkgO6OLktKtC2FroLL_V53KapS9ulI/s320/IMG_4943.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span> </span>Valentine’s Day. Balloon vendors with heart-shaped balloons. Fresh flowers galore for sale on the streets. Chocolates and other sweets selling out at shops and convenience stores. It's as commercial a holiday in as in other parts of the world, but it's not only Hallmark that sees the proceeds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Although the roots of Valentine's Day may be in ancient Rome in Mexico the holiday is celebrated with much joy and enthusiasm as <i>El Día de San Valentin</i>, but it's more commonly referred to as <i>El Día del Amor y la Amistad</i>, the "day of love and friendship." Valentine's Day in Mexico isn't restricted to romantic love, it's also a day to show appreciation for friends. People give flowers, candies, and balloons to their romantic partners, but they may also give cards and gifts to their platonic friends as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">If you'd like to tell your special someone how you feel about them in Spanish, saying I love you in Spanish can be a bit more complicated than in English because there are two different ways to say it. "Te quiero" is said freely among friends and family members but "te amo" is used to denote a stronger feeling.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Early in the day our neighbor Jim, along with his visiting son, Brian, dropped off a single red rose. An hour later, Tio dropped off four tamales that Maria had made by hand. People were exchanging flowers and at happy hour, barb brought a box of delicious chocolate candies.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Carol managed to finally get her haircut at a shop just up the street. For a mere $150 Pesos the stylist spent about an hour cutting then shampooing. The result was quite nice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We ventured out in late afternoon to pickup some chocolates for Maria as well as some treats for ourselves. Carol also had found a store containing tons of glassware where we bought a replacement glass (one of our glasses had mysteriously disappeared) and a new cup. Marge visiting required we have another cup for her tea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">At happy hour we met Erin (niece to Larinda) and her husband Dan from Syracuse. First time visit to Mexico, they’re delighted to be out of winter for a few weeks.</span></div>
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<span face="Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: helvetica;">Otherwise another lazy day in Oaxaca…</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 32 - Week 5 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OZnkn8yp77WxgVM-jetTkUVtVb1PkAYqFRhLh2twJhPR0t3FaFKGR6kR-xskIxpr1ziji7NnnvgxSf2SEJzHhERzmao0bHqFiIcGJQccHg4SpFQ-XSrxg_md2c0W6faBhWzlHA4VRuqp/s2048/IMG_5753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1265" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OZnkn8yp77WxgVM-jetTkUVtVb1PkAYqFRhLh2twJhPR0t3FaFKGR6kR-xskIxpr1ziji7NnnvgxSf2SEJzHhERzmao0bHqFiIcGJQccHg4SpFQ-XSrxg_md2c0W6faBhWzlHA4VRuqp/s320/IMG_5753.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Saturday - Sábado - when everyone is out shopping. Not unlike anywhere else in the world where people work but weekends are left to get out and do things with the family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">There is a silversmith a few blocks from the apartment where Carol had found a pair of silver earrings. The silversmith would be at the shop at 10:00am today so we stopped at 10:00 to find the shop closed. “10:00am Mexican time” means sometime after 10:00. At 10:10 the store opened and Carol was able to purchase her earrings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Other than the earring purchase we didn’t have anything lined up for the day aside from some shopping downtown for a few veggies and to replenish our supply of Minero mezcal. Note to selves: avoid shopping on the weekends when there are hordes of people shopping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back at the apartment Tom realized he needed to buy some pesto. We’d been told there are a couple of places to buy pesto - one nearby and at Boulenc, well beyond the Alcalá. Nearby sounded good but alas, the shop was “no tengo” - we don’t have any. Carol wasn’t really dressed to walk to Boulenc so I headed out on my own.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">On the way I was distracted - more like attracted - to music coming from the plaza in front of Santa Domingo Church. Turned out to be a wedding celebration and I arrived just in time to watch the happy couple, accompanied by a band, dancers and the rest of the wedding party, start a procession down the Alcalá.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">These people really know how to celebrate. Not only did the bride and groom dance their way down the thoroughfare, but they frequently stopped, formed a circle with the wedding party, and toasted doing shots of tequila. Or maybe mezcal. Or possibly both. A lot.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">At one point some of the dancers with elaborate headdresses adorned with fireworks, put on a brief fireworks display. All this much to the amusement of passerby locals and tourists. The procession lasted a good hour and I could only imagine what kind of shape the happy couple and their wedding party would be in for the formal wedding reception/dinner to follow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Having picked up the pesto (and a couple of large brownies) at Boulenc, I wandered back to the apartment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A bit of time reading, doing the jigsaw, then happy hour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 33 - Week 5 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_Zc5G9ZqqeUXQXg8sJdRv0OMWqrUhJXGp_Q9chpI3LutHBKUQv9AxpfDFC-ysCnJSi9Dr1YRKClO9H0Lxx4ErQ4j4JivIeEUARn9kCmi0yXvQSSI6T3vP2Fzklwm8lTzacY21kVVBtaP/s2048/IMG_4615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1649" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_Zc5G9ZqqeUXQXg8sJdRv0OMWqrUhJXGp_Q9chpI3LutHBKUQv9AxpfDFC-ysCnJSi9Dr1YRKClO9H0Lxx4ErQ4j4JivIeEUARn9kCmi0yXvQSSI6T3vP2Fzklwm8lTzacY21kVVBtaP/s320/IMG_4615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span> </span>Sunday. And another meet up with the local bird group. The destination today was Bosque del Tequio, a park on the north end of Aeropuerto Internacional Xoxocotían (the Oaxaca airport). This was a place we’d hope to visit so convincing the group to go there wasn’t difficult.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A shared taxi ride (total of three taxis to accommodate the group size) brought us to an expansive park where we walked all morning netting 33 species including an endemic Gray-breasted Woodpecker. We added a handful of other new for Mexico birds like White-tailed Kite.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A simple bus ride back to Llano Park where while walking along the northern edge of the botanical garden we encountered a Yellow-throated Warbler, very unusual for the city. next Sunday we'll be attending the monthly bird banding project that takes place in the botanical garden.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Oh, crickets. Another bird outing followed by beer and food at Berlina’s, our go to post-birding place. A very bad habit we picked up from our birding pals in the Northeast Wisconsin Bird Club. “Bad” being a relative term.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walking along the west side of the botanical gardens, we came across an art installation, itself within the walls of the gardens, in a courtyard where Francisco Toledo’s sculpture was found on the day we had toured the gardens.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Hardly visible, access was through a narrow wrought iron gate tucked between two street venders along the west wall of the gardens lined with several more venders. Normally the gate is closed but today the public were being beckoned inside to view a recently installed art display of clay sculptures created Bosco Sodi. For the past several years, Sodi has been making fired clay sculptures at his residency program and art center, Casi Wabi, on the beach in Puerto Escondido.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">His creations take on several basic geometric shapes: cubes, cuboids, spheres, cylinders, slabs, and beams. Fired in a makeshift sand-dune-and-brick kiln in the tropical beach scrub outside his studio, these throwback building blocks are the equivalent of corn seed, adobe, and pi. Sodi calls them “prime objects” representing “the most elementary of mankind’s organizing and construction principles”. They are, he says, the product of an “abiding desire to produce a culture of reconnection”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Under the shade (shade?) of the courtyard’s magnificent Guaje tree (Leucaena leucocephhala) for which the courtyard is named, and set against a backdrop of a thirty foot high wall of climbing Pitahaya (Hylocereus undatus), is where we observed Sodi’s works (as well as inside an adjoining anti-room).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The small tree incorporated into the installation is the endangered Guayacanes (Guaiacum coulteri). Antonio, a young man on station (possibly one of his students), explained the works saying that Sodi’s inspiration was to contrast the “perfection in nature” against the “imperfections of man”. A bit of a stretch for us to take in but enjoyed learning something new - as it seems we do every day out in Oaxaca.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Many miles of walking and time for a brief nap. Then happy hour. The gang will get a bit thin over the next few days as two couples will be off visiting the beaches along with visiting family members.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 34 - Week 5 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-f_-oK5zEwl2xhcBFeiqmS-ltAnMAummV7T8YrcVRCOuBgmxwbEuMZbOtQ8W80W4nxif7ndeVxXEgqPOH-4Fxl9wRacW5cL1hXDHwsVYKWzIaOfDgVEuvgArx_h3Cgm5y-Y5XmEe7mfx/s2048/IMG_5137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-f_-oK5zEwl2xhcBFeiqmS-ltAnMAummV7T8YrcVRCOuBgmxwbEuMZbOtQ8W80W4nxif7ndeVxXEgqPOH-4Fxl9wRacW5cL1hXDHwsVYKWzIaOfDgVEuvgArx_h3Cgm5y-Y5XmEe7mfx/s320/IMG_5137.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The White-winged dove nest directly across from our apartment door, at eye level, has finally produced a couple of young birds. Usually hidden under the parent, we managed to capture them at feeding time. The adult regurgitates food while the young stick their bills into the base of the adult's beak for their portion. Probably accounts for why on average there are only two young per brood. There's only so much seating room at feeding time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Monday has become laundry day so on our way to Chedraui we dropped off laundry. Then a brief shopping stop for food and back home again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Lunch. But we can’t sit still for very long so out we go again. A bit further afield west of the Alcaléa, we quite by accident came upon the Museo Belber - Jimenez. It houses a stunning collection of jewelry and textiles. Unfortunately, there wasn’t any literature to indicate what the items were (age or origin). So a little digging on the internet helped flesh things out. The museum, by the way, is free (donations accepted).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"> It came about as a result of world renowned Federico Jimenez. He was born in Oaxaca, Mexico in 1941 in a Mixtec Indian community. After receiving a bachelor’s degree in science and art at the University of Benito Juarez in Oaxaca, Mexico, he went to the United States in 1967 to study and work.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">In 1970 he and his wife, Ellen Belber-Jimenez, took a trip to the Southwest and fell in love with the American Indian Culture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">He admired the Indian craftsmanship and technique so much that he was inspired to start a collection of Folk Art. He first opened a gallery on Main Street in Santa Monica, CA and then moved to Abbot Kinney Ave. in Venice, CA. His most important Gallery was opened on Montana Ave, in Santa Monica, CA where he specialized in Antiques and Collectibles, carrying Folk Art from Mexico, Latin America, and the Southwest.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Important collectors and museums were costumers of his during the 25 years of his business. He and his wife amassed a big collection of Mexican jewelry: Pre Colombian, Colonial, and Contemporary, as well as Southwest art like baskets, kachinas, Pottery, Navajo, Zuni and Hopi rugs and jewelry.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">In 2008 he and his wife donated their Mexican collection along with a building (the museum) to house it in to the city of Oaxaca.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Now he lives in Venice CA, and is designing his line of jewelry. What’s pictured is just a small sample of what was on display.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Winding our way back home we hit another 10,000 step day. Caught up on email, some reading, the daily jigsaw, then happy hour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 35 - Week 5 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGjqCnMdXd7jvazTa5AkgsJoOiw97IdwwxRQgAmLB8Yrb5zBF4QabTyyfSA8pmRBMVi3BNuu7b7bocpI1yMdKWxgFvX1KKr52hT8kHcz8s5kw3Bm8N4luLZoP7Jo2PqWaxS7ev_3TuhMD/s2048/IMG_5180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1393" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGjqCnMdXd7jvazTa5AkgsJoOiw97IdwwxRQgAmLB8Yrb5zBF4QabTyyfSA8pmRBMVi3BNuu7b7bocpI1yMdKWxgFvX1KKr52hT8kHcz8s5kw3Bm8N4luLZoP7Jo2PqWaxS7ev_3TuhMD/s320/IMG_5180.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">After sharing a short video clip at happy hour last night, several of our neighbors stopped at our front door to view the active nest. Helping them get a closer look, we setup our spotting scope. many “oohhs” and “aahhhs”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The forecast was for a warmer day we got ready to get in a long walk a bit earlier than normal, heading to a new location based on some street murals neighbors witnessed. The exact location wasn’t very clear as we headed south and east toward another shopping market, Soriana. Unfortunately we didn’t come upon the exact street murals our neighbors had seen but we did find a number of others.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Not exactly getting skunked on seeing murals we had the added benefit of walking through a new shopping store. Quite large and somewhat better stocked than the other supermarket we frequent. Plus we go tin our 10,000 steps for the day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We discovered we have a mouse problem - a small rodent has been helping itself to some of our bananas. We informed Manuel who brought not one but three baited mouse traps. One the size of a small bear trap, another a medium sized trap, and a small trap, all baited with some form of meat. In addition to the traps he also brought several ant traps - just to cover all the bases we guess.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">To date no mouse has fallen for the meat but we still see signs of mouse droppings. The bananas are kept in the fridge for the time being. Thinking we should rebait the small trap with a peanut butter/banana compote since that’s what the mouse seems to prefer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">More time chatting with some of the neighbors, naps, reading, jigsaw puzzle, emails…got to engrossed in so many other things we forgot to go pickup our laundry. Looks like we have something to do for the next day already in place…</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-19477584873154739392020-12-15T08:22:00.006-08:002020-12-15T09:32:37.110-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Week 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>2/5/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 22 - Week 4 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_YYpk0XoVlHIP_Bkf6B4aOwAnplUoO_7WBkRaU94-h3HITygtzRHbpoIMKPq-x7cZVADEnddx4cQ67zV_9b7T7fiWhONGDFB923QXp6mbnCp4CP_nfKtkletEpZJco_Ak-vSa1bj6DtdU/s2048/IMG_5313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1205" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_YYpk0XoVlHIP_Bkf6B4aOwAnplUoO_7WBkRaU94-h3HITygtzRHbpoIMKPq-x7cZVADEnddx4cQ67zV_9b7T7fiWhONGDFB923QXp6mbnCp4CP_nfKtkletEpZJco_Ak-vSa1bj6DtdU/s320/IMG_5313.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A very slow day for us as about all we accomplished was to walk to the Zocala, a bit further west to explore a few streets we’d not been on before, then a slow walk through the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. There we ran into a father and daughter from Portland sampling and buying mezcal from our favorite mezcal shop in the market. Marco, the young man at the counter is very personable and speaks English. Also very knowledgeable about all that he sells.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Picked up a small bag of trail mix, a small vial of honey and then headed home. Happy hour at 5:00 with a glorious sunset.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: 30px; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 23 - Week 4 </span><span style="font-size: 30px; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkJ-HohZszKLH8ST237_dhVyqkYouD5zEFAg0LqMU1pGDs7x787YPjRoWLqiRMCwY0-zVtbBZOgzNSnnA7ZZAj_qr6UDfBMDuM02Jz2LtJnLHQYNpw9uyDj1Mpu3alutp7Sm4Cd8Fq-C2/s2048/IMG_4915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1821" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkJ-HohZszKLH8ST237_dhVyqkYouD5zEFAg0LqMU1pGDs7x787YPjRoWLqiRMCwY0-zVtbBZOgzNSnnA7ZZAj_qr6UDfBMDuM02Jz2LtJnLHQYNpw9uyDj1Mpu3alutp7Sm4Cd8Fq-C2/s320/IMG_4915.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Today’s quest, while our apartment was being cleaned, we headed east of the historic center of town to the Panteón General, or General Cemetery. While it houses the remains of many illustrious figures in the history of the region and nation (we couldn’t find a list so didn’t know where or who to locate), it is also a showcase for diverse and imaginative funeral architecture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Older crypts and grave markers have given way to larger and more ornate mausolea. Many deploy neoclassical elements, with varied uses of pediments, architraves, pilasters, and columns to effect a dignified, formal aspect. Others adopt the clean lines and restrained ornamentation of Modernist design, particularly popular in the 1950s and 1960s. Still others experiment with highly expressive forms, materials, and colors, adding visual variety to the landscape. This of course made our walk through the cemetery all the more interesting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Gravesites rest amid a lush landscape of orange, cedar, and pine trees, climbing vines, potted plants, and flower bouquets placed in vases. The pines and cedars make for good birdwatching. We were surprised at how many gravesites had fresh flowers. A crew of workers was busy cleaning, sweeping, watering, and pruning many gravesite plantings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Oaxacan authorities established the Panteón General in 1829 on land that at the time lay on the town’s periphery, located between the Rio Jalatlaco and the sandstone quarries. The new cemetery was urgently needed to handle the overflow of bodies from a raging smallpox epidemic that killed a quarter of the population. Five years later, cholera swept through the town, killing hundreds more. Over the next two centuries, some 11,000 bodies would find rest in the necropolis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Since its inception, the Panteón General has been an important site for the observance of “Día de Muertos” — Day of the Dead. Families bring food and drink for their departed loved ones, and the cemetery fills with thousands of candles, crepe paper streamers, painted signs, floral arrangements, and <i>cempasúchil</i> (Tagetes erecta, also known as Mexican marigold, used for rituals since pre-Columbian times and now representative of the holiday). Celebrations were canceled in 2017 after an earthquake damaged the cemetery’s sandstone gate. As of 2019, some of the damage has been repaired, though residents continue to report unsafe conditions of walls and gates. In any case, the cemetery has reopened, and once again plays its central role in the ritual life of Oaxaqueños.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">There was an interesting structure in what was probably the original chapel. Clearly in a state of ruins, quite possibly an earthquake or fire years ago.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">On our way back we tried stopping for lunch at Casa Taviche, recommend by Paul and Gloria. Alas, it opened it 1:00 and here we were, standing at their door at noon. So, on to our second choice, La Rambla. But when we arrived they were still closed, in the process of moving. Our third option was to try “Colectivo Gastronomico Cultural”, a small collective of 8 restaurants. Very inexpensive and the food was great - split a barbecue chicken sandwich and we each had fresh squeezed juice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">One small incident in the apartment. Changing out a roll of toilet paper, the ceramic holder broke loose from the wall and shattered on the floor. Immediately notified Manuel who surveyed the scene. Promised to be back the next day to repair the damage. It’s an old 50’s style blue holder matching the rest of the bathroom decor. They still make these?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Happy hour, evening meal then off to bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 24 - Week 4 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Owing to an upset stomach - probably the papaya juice from the day before’s lunch (acted like a laxative), there was not much activity beyond the apartment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As promised Manuel came to replace the toilet roll holder with, believe or not, a properly matched blue ceramic replacement.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We know Maria knows all that happens in the apartments but she still appreciated a note from us explaining what had happened which she greatly appreciated.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Otherwise, jigsaw puzzle, reading, and happy hour after feeling much better than in the morning.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 25 - Week 4 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbvnoIhkXQjFsUShJ4UjU7GIUxHs5U9DL_Rw5_48VyMbzNUqSLWRI12VacnQPjdCkMHVsfFXxJjmyutNPACAIdHHT9PoNYUGMU0cWV1_J6OSgqdk41Z-H2j3vFt1UmzaSlPnaz2WJLFAW/s2048/IMG_4930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbvnoIhkXQjFsUShJ4UjU7GIUxHs5U9DL_Rw5_48VyMbzNUqSLWRI12VacnQPjdCkMHVsfFXxJjmyutNPACAIdHHT9PoNYUGMU0cWV1_J6OSgqdk41Z-H2j3vFt1UmzaSlPnaz2WJLFAW/s320/IMG_4930.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Finally a walk to one of the “caha popular”, an ATM associated with a Mexican credit union which is supposed to have the lowest transaction fee for withdrawing cash using our debit card. The touch screen was in both Spanish and English which made the transaction very simple.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The only blip was selecting $100 - which is the amount of money we wished to withdraw. Out popped a $100 Pesos. What we needed was to select $1,000 which of course was not the amount in USD but Pesos.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Once finished we walked around the Llano Park then headed to La Rambla to checkout their new location. Basically moved the kitchen about 40 feet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Ordered breakfast and purchased a pound of fresh ground coffee from the small coffee shop immediately behind La Rambla. Locally grown organic coffee so the money went directly to the family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back to the apartment for me but Carol, who had discovered a textile sale wanted to go back and check it out. A few neighbors opted to go with her. Didn’t buy anything - just eye candy shopping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">More relaxing before happy hour, dinner and a movie (well, half of a movie - we split them into two nights), then bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 26 - Week 4 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgax0IHPwj5m11Mkf69ZGbDJaa3HwTjLBcco8-PtxhhDHBmFhnmHcElqfGYiRzNodo878JN8WDyjQcnTPmWn6B1uEsOCcs_s6V2lQuDOZQ91e8OPPKqlMO3T67EzeFHtI0CIx7wS1nFPp6Y/s4032/IMG_4542-copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgax0IHPwj5m11Mkf69ZGbDJaa3HwTjLBcco8-PtxhhDHBmFhnmHcElqfGYiRzNodo878JN8WDyjQcnTPmWn6B1uEsOCcs_s6V2lQuDOZQ91e8OPPKqlMO3T67EzeFHtI0CIx7wS1nFPp6Y/s320/IMG_4542-copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Sunday morning so we joined s small group of the local birding club meeting in Llano Park. The decision was made to travel to San Felipe where there’s a dirt track running through dry scrub.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Two of the regulars - Susan and Gale (Gale was the original organizer of the club), another couple from Canada and a woman from Manhattan rounded out the group.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Initially the plan was to take a bus but being early Sunday, buses were not running very often - yet. We flagged down two cabs which cost us roughly $35 Pesos each.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walking the road for about three hours produced one life bird: Oaxaca Sparrow. Otherwise we enjoyed everyone’s company talking about birds and birding. The woman from NY was impressed with seeing so many new - for her - birds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We managed to catch a bus for the return trip. Bus fares are even at $8 Pesos so it’s a pretty cheap proposition.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Dropped off again at Llano Park we circled over to the Alcalá and lunch at Berlina’s. Another shared meal of bratwurst with a wonderful apple strudel (with ice cream) for desert.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back to the apartment for what turned out to be a couple of naps before happy hour. Not much of an appetite having a late lunch so just some tea, cookies, the rest of the movie then off to bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 27 - Week 4 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTQagNTHxXdjZ6NhLWG41VyhTMFeO6n5nDRYAtWpB0bmPZJQi2LVg3j1_eHLUHtAZM7Mmp8l5QQAhbF-zx1GJFCqn8cQ8Jz3sysCSO58t6SBmWYuGSiHPnHAaN89rK4C2sgo9FCgs9L1i/s2048/IMG_4971.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1410" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTQagNTHxXdjZ6NhLWG41VyhTMFeO6n5nDRYAtWpB0bmPZJQi2LVg3j1_eHLUHtAZM7Mmp8l5QQAhbF-zx1GJFCqn8cQ8Jz3sysCSO58t6SBmWYuGSiHPnHAaN89rK4C2sgo9FCgs9L1i/s320/IMG_4971.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Today on our way to Chedruai, the local supermarket, we found a Samsung phone in the street. While the face was cracked, the phone still functioned. What to do?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Two immediate problems. First, everything was in Spanish. And two, I’m unfamiliar with the Samsung operating system (although Samsung sure did copy the look of an iPhone).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We recalled the supermarket has a kiosk where one can buy a SIM card or refresh their SIM card, or buy a Samsung phone. It made sense, then, to bring the phone to the kiosk and ask the attendant if they could contact the owner. Of course every other time we’ve seen the kiosk there was always an attendant. But not today.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Carol tracked down a store security person who in turn sought help from another store employee. Between the four of us, and with the use of our Spanish translation software on our phones, the owner (or someone in the owner’s contact list) was contacted. He/she would arrive at the store’s Customer Service desk in about twenty minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">While Carol shopped, I waited. Twenty-five minutes later I was just about to turn the phone over to Customer Service when two men appeared inquiring about the phone. In the ensuing conversation, one of the men produced an ID card that matched the ID information on the back of the phone’s case. Not that some random person would coincidentally show up claiming the lost phone but it was nice to have the owner’s confirmation. The fellow was quite happy to be reunited with his phone and asked if “did he owe me any money?” which I took to mean was I seeking a reward.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">“Absolutely not - the smile on your face is my reward”. He gestured toward the heavens then we profusely shook hands. He went on his way and I joined Carol in her shopping quest.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">I know how I would have felt if I’d lost my phone so I know how happy the man must have felt - and how glad we were to have the story wind up with a satisfying ending.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Once back at the apartment we took a short break to unpack groceries, then headed out to the mercado in town to pick up a few bananas, tomatoes, and another bottle of Coke. We also stopped at a “Chocolate Mayordomo” store (a chain) to try one of their Choco Mio, a sweet chocolate milk shake for $30 Pesos. Very refreshing and quite addicting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The rest of the day was spent at the apartment reading, working on a jigsaw puzzle, a short nap. Before we knew it, it was happy hour. It now seems that Carol has warmed to our bottle of Minero mezcal. Good things come to those who wait.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Today was Ava’s ninth birthday so we managed a quick FaceTime to wish her a happy birthday. Thank goodness for technology!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 28 - Week 4 </span><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">First up was to buy a bracelet for Ava’s birthday which was on the 10th. We’d found bracelets at Copal, a shop featuring Oaxaca arts. There were several to choose from but knowing Ava’s penchant for either pink or purple helped narrow the search. We’ll be giving Ava her bracelet when we return to WI in May.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Carol has been interested in finding a ‘delantal para la cocina’, an ‘apron for the kitchen’ ever since seeing a wonderfully embroidered apron on a street vender. A stroll through many clothing shops lining part of the Zocala didn’t produce anything so we headed to the Oaxaca Artisan Shop which also didn’t have aprons - but it did have a top Carol liked. Talked the vender down from $450 Pesos to $300 Pesos ($16 USD).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A break for a ‘choco mio’, essentially a chilled hot cocoa drink, resulted in an explanation of how chocolate is made using a molinilla. The molinillo [moh-lee-NEE-yoh] is a Mexican chocolate "whisk" or “stirrer" made of "turned" wood. It’s used to froth warm drinks such as hot chocolate, atole, and champurrado. This tool is still handmade today using a wood lathe and it is still used for preparation of hot chocolate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The tool was actually invented by the Spaniard colonists in Mexico around the 1700's to assist with the preparation of a hot chocolate like drink. The chocolate that was made by the Aztecs was simply roasted beans, ground on a metate and added seeds and flavorings. The resulting chocolate was thick, grainy, and had a nasty habit of separating. Aztecs would keep pouring the mixture from one pot to another; to keep the chocolate mixed. Today, chocolate includes emulsifiers that keep the chocolate from separating.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The Spaniards thought the whole business of all that pouring back and forth was quite uncivilized; thus the invention of the molinillo (stirrer). Earliest versions had a simple ball or square at one end of a long handle. Later they got more elaborate with rings and movable parts that helped the stirring process. The molinillos were made to fit into a container with the handle extending out of the top. The molinillo was then rotated between the user’s two hands placed palm-sides together. The twisting motion frothed the chocolate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back at the apartment more resting, relaxing before happy hour. The evening meal was lasagna using the persnickety gas oven which required constant supervision. However, it turned out to be quite tasty.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We’ve been watching movies streamed on my laptop while eating our evening meal. Typically we break the movie up into two or three parts over two or three evening meals. The dining room chairs simply are not like our sofa back home.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-89170727850172973722020-12-15T08:19:00.006-08:002020-12-15T09:19:58.319-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Week 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/29/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 15 - Week 3</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQ3s-Pc8QrH28_1nN_FHZ4qr2X1VKVCWWDaCuBDAJ9o9V6DftiBRgE1RApUl5zpNxlX6vCqyI3gEupgf9QyR-yJyMrRDQ1hTLydL72PCXU1MXRmXrwFPeeCe0skYkswEfVf4VGAHx9StS/s2048/IMG_4719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQ3s-Pc8QrH28_1nN_FHZ4qr2X1VKVCWWDaCuBDAJ9o9V6DftiBRgE1RApUl5zpNxlX6vCqyI3gEupgf9QyR-yJyMrRDQ1hTLydL72PCXU1MXRmXrwFPeeCe0skYkswEfVf4VGAHx9StS/s320/IMG_4719.jpg" /></a></div><br />Yesterday we eased back a bit on walking and instead stayed close to home. We read, got caught up on email, some journaling, started another jigsaw puzzle, and visited with neighbors.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Our trip to the super mercado was interesting. We’d heard that on Super Bowl Sunday or maybe during Super Bowl weekend, most of the store’s stock of liquor is discounted 30%. When we arrived it was discounted 32% (what an odd number). We hadn’t expected to buy any today but couldn’t resist the markdown. Another bottle of Rum, a bottle of Merlot, and even a bottle of gin for Carol. Even went so far as to buy olives.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">So after checking out and looking at the bill, there was no discount. ??? We inquired with at checkout who did not understand a word of English. We asked for a manager who arrived and but he didn’t speak English (with all the expats living in the area?). But eventually we got it sorted. Yes, it’s discounted. But only when purchased online. ???? We returned the goods (but kept the olives). Upside was we didn't to have to carry all that weight home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">This reminded us of the time we went to Kohls to buy some jeans on sale. There they were, on the shelf. BUT, it was only an online discount. After speaking to customer service I would have to go online and place an order for an in-store pickup. Then wait for a few hours before the order was put through and a sales person in the store would pickup the jeans - on the shelf I was standing next to when placing the order - and take them to customer service where I would then pick them up. No amount of arguing (politely) would change the situation. Right then and there we cancelled our Kohls credit card. Not that anyone cared but you know, it's the principle of the thing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">In order to get the discount for the liquor I’d have to go online (all of this in Spanish), find the items, put them in a virtual cart, submit all our credit card information, then make sure we asked for an in-store pickup at the correct store…well, that was a bit too much. We’ll pass on the discount and look for another store to buy booze, even at the regular price!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Early meal, more reading, then off to bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 16 - Week 3</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0Y8KYZe2zc2d22lgF4_3uESm9rSyy8v-0_9dOqwsBudHWVOHov4eY523oEh0-nh5kGTjZYWZG1hc-UeIhZwywpTQK99zkhc4HGlAbvs68Ox4IaGyGhqvmgZGVd_98O65oCY6-eqa5rqK/s2048/IMG_5853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1505" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0Y8KYZe2zc2d22lgF4_3uESm9rSyy8v-0_9dOqwsBudHWVOHov4eY523oEh0-nh5kGTjZYWZG1hc-UeIhZwywpTQK99zkhc4HGlAbvs68Ox4IaGyGhqvmgZGVd_98O65oCY6-eqa5rqK/s320/IMG_5853.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Not wishing to be inactive today. Not only did we need to get out and walk, we literally needed to get out. Thursdays are the day our apartment is cleaned along with new linens on the bed, towels, etc.. Our appointed hour is at 11:30am (same time every week we learned). Up to that time we communicated information to our birding group, tweaked a few itinerary things with Field Guides, and some email catching up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Some banking today. Change out USD for Pesos. We’d found a local cambio across the street from a CitiBank which gave us 17.50 Pesos for every USD. A bit less that what we got at the airport. Not unexpected because the airport remains the better place but we would have lost any by advantage paying transport to and from the airport.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We continued on to the Alcala to scout out more possible shopping venues that our birding tour group might appreciate. Carol scored a nice shirt from a street vender. Then we made our way over to the La Santisima Flor de Lupulo brewery.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The brunch menu was still in effect. We ordered a flight of beer consisting of an IPA, Pale Ale and a Porter. To eat I settled on a cheese, mushroom, and spinach omelette with local chocolate-mint stout. Songs from a BB King album played in the background (One Kind Favor album). Oh, yeah. Breakfast of champions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walking back toward the Alcala we bumped into a couple who we stopped to ask about the fellow’s brightly colored hummingbird design on his T-shirt. Turns out they were birders, and knew Laura and Dave Paulson, birders and fellow RVer’s we had met on the road and are now good friends. What a small world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As we wound our way back to the apartment we discovered more interesting nooks and crannies displaying so many wonderful colors and textures. Happy hour with more spirited discussions about US politics then off to bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 17 - Week 3</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 26px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcYmTwoJJlY_zGbOGJ-FEmTrUzUUZS8GKT7lVVEPHrpkigO1ph1EAU_iBj9oj0oLxZCp4V4uWzUFEAf9YlCFgnMXBICsQbztq7DaSOBgyCPf1SGXfp2qteIHkqCS6HZDKk2M4BXAIWWvd/s2048/IMG_4731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1948" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcYmTwoJJlY_zGbOGJ-FEmTrUzUUZS8GKT7lVVEPHrpkigO1ph1EAU_iBj9oj0oLxZCp4V4uWzUFEAf9YlCFgnMXBICsQbztq7DaSOBgyCPf1SGXfp2qteIHkqCS6HZDKk2M4BXAIWWvd/s320/IMG_4731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Aside from following the dismal news of U.S. politics, we spent more time this morning organizing a few things in the apartment before departing for the other Chedraui supermarket that all our neighbors rave about.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Claire, one of our neighbors was returning to the store today and offered to take us with her. This Chedraui is about 2.5 miles away. Too far to walk like the closer Chedraui. It would involve our first bus ride in Oaxaca and Claire was offering to show us the ropes - where to get on, which bus to get on, and where to get off.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The cost of a bus ride was $8 Pesos (roughly .45-cents per person). Today, however, there was one of the frequent “blockades”. These blockades are spontaneous protests about something - we weren’t sure what. But it caused a massive slow down in traffic as hundreds of parked dump trucks and collectivo taxis were clogged city streets. It made for a longer than usual bus ride as the driver was forced to find alternate routes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Finally arriving at our drop off point, we still had about a three block walk to the store. Once inside we could easily see why our neighbors are so impressed and why taking the time to take a bus was a small price to pay. The store was much larger, cleaner, and had a lot more to offer than our local Chedraui.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Our goal today was to take advantage of the 30% discount on alcohol. Apparently the 32% discount we tried to get at the other Chedraui was a one day online only event. The 30% was not an online requirement and people were stocking up in droves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We wound up with two bottles of red wine - one from Chile and the other from South Africa. A bottle of Tangueray for Carol’s martinis and two bottles of Jamaican rum (Appleton Speacial). The rum bottles were 950ml each. And a six-pack of Negro Modello. Total price in USD? $48. Given how much more was available at the store Carol would have loved to have lingered longer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As it was, we had too much weight to carry back to the bus stop so opted to take a taxi. For the three of us the ride cost $70 Pesos. Roughly $3.70. All in all a very inexpensive but eye-opening trip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">At last night’s happy hour some of us agreed to make a night of it at a local restaurant, Biznaga. Neighbors Claire and Jim, Val and ourselves trekked to Biznaga’s, located at Calle Manuel García Vigil 512, one block west of Santa Domingo Church.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">This was on a Friday night and the city was in full swing. Crowded streets, many pedestrians, and lots of celebrating. Even a small musical group (mainly percussionists) marching along one street.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The food is a ‘mestizo’ cuisine using typical ingredients of Oaxaca combined with those of the New World. Our beef was marinated with a mole sauce based on mezcal with mashed potatoes. The ‘negra sopa’ (black bean soup) was creamed black beans with a red wine sauce. We all had margaritas but instead of tequila, mezcal was the base.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A bit more pricey than we’re used to but a delightful meal with plenty of conversation. Interesting that they don’t do separate checks but when we took it upon ourselves to break the bill down, we could pay each portion with a credit card.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walking in the evening certainly gave us a different perspective what with all the night life and lights. Familiar streets - streets we’ve walked on since arriving - seemed so much different.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Finally back at our apartment by 10:00pm, there was a note from Hector in Veracruz stating that he and his wife were in Oaxaca and would we want to get together on Saturday or Sunday? Sooner than we expected but we made a date to meet in front of Santa Domingo Church at 11:00am, Saturday morning, hoping that our translators on our iPhones will be up to the task!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 18 - Week 3</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City - Hector Jaime</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWeHG4OEYr1r-GmKe6c70lmzfoVD15IzvPXc3sYCWZAR_Oyumib6qjwim1KzaCWr5tEwy-rhfjNTWBSlvYdVNc2DNjF8rQ7sIM_hpleCrGw5JKasYb5L8i4XaFsM8NDWrFGQqkC5qblM6c/s1890/87412057_3368259006534629_5130696931697229824_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1306" data-original-width="1890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWeHG4OEYr1r-GmKe6c70lmzfoVD15IzvPXc3sYCWZAR_Oyumib6qjwim1KzaCWr5tEwy-rhfjNTWBSlvYdVNc2DNjF8rQ7sIM_hpleCrGw5JKasYb5L8i4XaFsM8NDWrFGQqkC5qblM6c/s320/87412057_3368259006534629_5130696931697229824_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />As Paul Harvey used to say, “and now the rest of the story”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Thirty years ago while I was working at Lawrence University in Appleton, WI, a German professor, Hans Ternes, hosted a music group he had found in Oaxaca, MX. The name of the group was Canto Nuevo. It was a mix of locals bonded by their love of Mexican, Central and South American folk songs - music of the people for the people.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">They played a number of musical instruments including percussion, strings (guitar and vihuela), pan pipes, plus vocals. During their stay at Lawrence they performed a few concerts. They also performed in Madison.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As Director of Media Services I was tasked with recording some their music. At the time, technology was audio cassettes. And I supplied a number of copies for the group to take back. Unfortunately, as far as I am aware, none of the recordings still exist at Lawrence. But over their stay I got to know them well. I was included in dinner parties in their honor. And I helped one of the group, Raul, purchase a video recorder. I was presented with one of their colorful jackets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">At the end of their stay, they said, “If you are ever in Oaxaca, you have many friends. Please find us if you ever visit”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Well. Here we are 30 years later. On the cusp of a visit. I had a copy of the original concert program (a copy is in fact in the LU archives) signed by all the members of the group. Facebook can be an amazing place at times. After a search I found who appeared to be one of the members, Héctor Jaime Gallegos García. I instigated a message containing my background and asking if he was indeed an original member of Canto Nuevo. It took a few weeks but he replied in the affirmative. Yes, indeed he was. And he remembered me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We became friends on Facebook, exchanging messages about our upcoming visit and how we might meet. Hector and his wife live in Veracruz - that’s an eight bus trip away. But he said that they come to Oaxaca regularly. A few days ago they arrived for the weekend. We made plans to meet at the front doors of Santa Domingo Church yesterday at 11:00am. It was the first time in thirty years we saw each other. Antonia Ruiz Torres (“Toni”) commented: “What a beautiful reunion after 3 decades of absence. Neither the language nor the distance or time matter when friendship is true.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Our morning coffee at Casa Mayordomo, Macedonio Alcalá 302, morphed into being driven by Hector and Toni to Matalan to sample mezcal and learn first hand of how mezcal is produced. The state of Oaxaca is famous for its mezcal production and as they say, when in Rome…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">First of all mezcal is not tequila (although just a potent!). Tequila is only made from blue agave. Mezcal is distilled from any number of other species of agave.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Agave is harvested when around seven or eight years old. Once harvested, the spines are cut away. What remains is the heart, the piña, which is formed underground. A piña can weigh up to 220 pounds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A fire is started in a deep pit. Stones are place on top. When the stones become red-hot, the piñas, which have been cut in half or quartered, are placed on top of the rocks then covered with fiber and straw mats and earth then left to roast for about four to five days.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">When the roasted piñas are removed, the roasting brings out the natural sugars. Fresh roasted agave is very sweet and tastes a lot like a combination of grilled corn and singed tropical fruit - very smoky, too. We sampled some - chewing on a piece you “chew” the sweetness leaving the thin fibers of the plant behind.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The roasted piñas are crushed using a large grinding wheel milling process (usually a horse or mule turns the wheel) with a person using a pitchfork to turn the agave making sure it gets ground evenly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Crushed agave is placed in large wooden barrels to ferment. Hot water is added to the barrel, then filled to the top with cold water and left to ferment for several days (the open barrels smelled amazing!). The exact period of fermentation depends on the weather - the hotter the weather the faster the fermentation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Distillation of the mash comes next. The first distillation yields a low-grade alcohol. Fibers are removed from the still and a second distillation takes place. After the second distillation occurs, the mezcal is blended to obtain a consistent grade of alcohol. The resulting mezcal is either bottled right away - called joven or blanco. Or it is left to age further in oak barrels.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Mezcal is sold in various forms. Mezcal Blanco or Joven is not aged at all or may be aged up to two months. It’s tends to be the least “smooth” when sipped.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Mezcal Reposado is aged between 6 months to a year. Sometimes a Chinicuil (larva from inside the agave plant) is added. Only “mezcal reposado” has a worm. Some say the worm adds flavor. Others say it’s simply a marketing gimmick. I’d say it’s the latter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Mezcal añejo is aged for at least a year. The longer it’s aged, the smoother is goes down. And the pricier it becomes. But don’t be fooled into thinking that joven isn’t worth having. Depending upon the species of agave, joven can be quite good and has a much lower price.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">There is also “cremas de mezcal” which is sweetened and comes in a variety of flavors like coconut, coffee, and passionfruit. Think of it as a Bailey’s Irish Cream tase. For those who don’t relish the taste of pure mezcal, this is a wya to enjoy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">By now it was getting to be late afternoon. During our our drive back to Oaxaca we invited Héctor and Toni for an evening meal at La Rambra. But we had to hurry because they closed at 6:00pm. We arrived at 5:55pm. Carol and I rushed in to see if we were too late while Héctor parked the car. Selma, the owner said, “No - you are not too late. We usually stay about another hour to prepare for the next day.” Whew! Had a wonderful meal of smoked Marling tacos, shrimp tacos while Toni had calamari. Afterwards we went to our apartment a block away to sit and talk. The mezcal tasting party was still going on. Obviously with Héctor and Toni arriving in town and our traveling with them, negated our being at the party.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Sitting in our apartment having beer and wine we put our phone translators to work. For over an hour we learned so much more about Héctor and Toni’s lives and how many similarities we shared.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">They said they will be back in Oaxaca on Feb 23 - 25. We plan to get together again then. What a wonderful experience that had its roots in a chance meeting 30 years ago!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 19 - Week 3</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGnkuIPpM1dTt8BXud5DHml4ZHgJr1b0jbXuhqR7e8ltVFDoEOOFYYe4jtfO7wu_2YaHHdYletQM8sH-tqXYXhoLjBMmx8TFd7DQdy6kH1kbAt5-ouUv819bjWy-SrWwOB07XxzlETah7/s2048/IMG_4797-copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGnkuIPpM1dTt8BXud5DHml4ZHgJr1b0jbXuhqR7e8ltVFDoEOOFYYe4jtfO7wu_2YaHHdYletQM8sH-tqXYXhoLjBMmx8TFd7DQdy6kH1kbAt5-ouUv819bjWy-SrWwOB07XxzlETah7/s320/IMG_4797-copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Sunday morning. It’s when the informal local bird group meets but given our late night we opted to sleep in. Well, not so much sleep in. Just not feel like we had to rush out the door.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We spent time organizing our photos form the previous day, got caught up on Facebook contacts, then decide we might like some breakfast out so we headed over to La Rambra.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Speaking with Selma we learned that they are going to be moving. But not too far. Basically just about 40 feet to another spot in the collectivo, putting off plans to move to a spot on the Alcalá for a year owing to the fact that the busy tourist season will be winding down in a few months.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Seated at our table we noticed a group of three wearing 49’s team colors came in looking for a table. We had space at ours and invited them to join us. It was a husband wife from San Francisco who have been coming to Oaxaca for years. This time the wife’s sister had just joined them a few days earlier - her first visit. Given the outcome of the Superbowl, the 49er fans were finding themselves feeling like the Packer fans did a few weeks ago. And perhaps a bit less cocky.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We bantered back and forth a bit about the Packer-49er results but otherwise talked about Oaxaca and what we’ve all been doing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Breakfast was as usual, wonderful. Poached eggs on a bed of toast and avocado along with potatoes and fruit. Coffee from the nearby coffee stand. Also purchased two raffle tickets to possibly win a dinner for two at La Rambra for Valentine Day. All proceeds to go to help local people in need.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">With no particular purpose in mind other than to get some exercise, we headed out toward the Alcalá. making our way past the Zocala we stopped to listen to the local wind ensemble. Over and up several more streets we popped in and out of shops and museums. One small artist shop was “Tinglaography”, a mix of mostly old photos and posters updated with digital imagery. Then there was an exhibit by Daniela Edburg. A modern photographer who’s works included a wide range of portraiture and outdoor scenes evoking surreal imagery.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Lots of music coming from the plaza in front of Santa Domingo Church attracte dour attention. A group of musicians played music while people in costumes danced. We had also noticed that in the past week many dolls dressed in extravagant clothes were displayed in shop windows.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A bit of inquiry we learned that February 2nd is the day for the “Fiesta of the Virgin of Candelaria”. A special day when families dress up their baby Jesus figures and carry them to church to get blessed. Some dress them at home but while some go into the markets to have special vendors dress them (hence all the shops displaying the dolls and clothing). While the music and dancing was going on, many dolls were being taken into the church to be blessed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walking makes us thirsty so we stopped by the Berlina restaurant for a Coke and a beer. Guess who had what.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Where had the time flown? Already past 4:00 we returned to the apartment and happy hour. Another new neighbor, Nancy from Windsor, Ontario had arrived. Always a good time to catch up on what our neighbors have been up to on any given day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 20 - Week 3</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 26px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSPZ7IhnXd53TV3iPO7xp_OvCxpiYakXDBzyhVwbi51F9EhyphenhyphenbPxbN4A6M-_uZePcGFh23BnffffkgA1nn_WHM1AigkXwtTGn2GvDH0BCuwtbuJqeFdPPfJy8hO1-9c9et_bmqK19RH-05I/s2048/IMG_2778.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1815" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSPZ7IhnXd53TV3iPO7xp_OvCxpiYakXDBzyhVwbi51F9EhyphenhyphenbPxbN4A6M-_uZePcGFh23BnffffkgA1nn_WHM1AigkXwtTGn2GvDH0BCuwtbuJqeFdPPfJy8hO1-9c9et_bmqK19RH-05I/s320/IMG_2778.jpg" /></a></div><br />Monday morning. Post Super Bowl. We didn’t watch it nor did we catch the halftime show. Or any of the commercials. Did we feel left out? Not at all! Congrats to the Kansas City Chiefs, wherever they’re based. Besides, the Packers beat the Chiefs in game eight of the regular season, 31-24. If it hadn’t been for losing to the 49er’s…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Every day we try to get out for some regular exercise. Today, with no particular place to go, we headed north toward the lending library. After bumping into a couple of our neighbors, they pointed out where the “caha popular” was located. It’s the equivalent of our credit unions in the states. Supposed to be the best place to use an ATM with the least amount of service charge. We went down the street to locate the exact building and along the way stumbled into a courtyard belonging to a boutique hotel, NaNaVida. Nightly room rates started at $114.00 USD. A bit pricy for us but had a nice talk with one of the staff who showed us some of the soaps they make. We left with a nice piece of soap, gifted wrapped and gratis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A stop at the library wound up chatting with a couple of birders originally from Minnesota who now live Silver City, NM. We informed them of the local bird group. A woman selling figs and blueberries attracted Carol’s attention. We left with a little of each.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Winding a corner we couldn’t help but notice a bakery and had to stop. Left with two churros, long ridged fried-dough pastry coated with sugar. There were churros filled with a chocolate cream but we opted for the plain, non-filled. This would be desert tonight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">By now we’re at Juarez Llano Park. As we walked the perimeter we decided to stop at Marco Polo Restaurant to try some shrimp cocktail which one of our neighbors raves about. Besides, Marco Polo was where we planned to being our birding group for breakfast on their free day. Might as well experience the service first hand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Shrimp cocktail came in three sizes. Small, medium and large. We ordered the medium to share and some coffee. The server dropped off a bowl of crackers, thin tortas, and three sauces. When the shrimp arrived it was the largest size. Clearly the waiter had not understood “medium” even after I’d pointed to it on the menu.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The shrimp was excellent. And there was more than enough to share. In fact we almost couldn’t finish it. Compared to a “shrimp cocktail” in the states, this was an amazing amount for not very much money. Our group should be pleased with the restaurant and service. Just make sure to be explicit in asking for the correct portion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back through Llano, we strayed east toward the Alcalá, eventually stopping at Luiz Martinez’s rug shop. We wanted to make sure that he took credit cards (he does) and that they will ship rugs (for a price, they will).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">When we arrived Luiz was napping on a low bed. We spoke with the other staff not wanting to wake him. But shortly he rose, fresh from his nap. Always hospitable, he invited us to sit and chat - and we did for over a half hour learning more about his staff.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As we talked Luiz saw an older man walking past carrying a colorful woven basket. Luiz beckoned the man inside to negotiate buying a basket to replace one he had that had, ver the years, become too worn. The upshot was he negotiated with the man to order a basket. And it was a lovely basket.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The heat of the day had begun as we worked our way back to the apartment. But not before stopping at a small shop to buy a couple of ‘copitas’, small clay vessels for sipping mezcal that we’d had our eye on. Originally we wanted to purchase a copita from a local artist, Vicente Hernández. But the man sitting at the desk in the small galeria had rebuffed our efforts, refusing to sell what appeared to be singles (not part of a set). Not once but also on an earlier visit. So we bought form another artist instead. Have to say that our experience in Vicente’s small shop was the exception to the rule of friendly artisans.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back at the apartment we prepared for happy hour. This time, many of the neighbors brought mezcal to taste since we had missed the mezcal tasting party on Saturday evening. We brought our container of joven (young; un-aged) Minero mezcal which we had paid $80 Pesos for a one liter container. This would be considered undesirable by some who think paying much more results in a better mezcal. Most every very much enjoyed our young mezcal! So much so that during the tasing on Saturday, someone had brought the same mezcal which, out of 14 mezcals sampled, turned out to be rated in the top three!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 21 - Week 3</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Closing in on our third week. More housekeeping today starting with a walk to Cheduai super mercado for food staples. Always a challenge for the walk back with loaded grocery bags.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Time for a lunch break then back out on the street again for more food staples from the mercado near the Zocala. Oh, and pickup some Coke for mixing with rum.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Down time for a brief nap, working on the jigsaw puzzle, some reading…a pretty lazy day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">4:30 time for a FaceTime with Jennie to wish her a happy birthday - turned 43. We won’t mention how how that makes us feel. Then another walk - a short one - to pick up our laundry. Then up to the roof for happy hour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Not a terribly busy day but certainly restful (except the grocery bag lug).</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-10752792346006030312020-12-15T08:17:00.005-08:002020-12-15T09:23:19.702-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Week 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/22/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 8 - Week 2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left; text-indent: 18px;"> </span></div><div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 18px;"><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4X_RKChs5tIRaQAqIeGv34Rl2JK8mJTt5uKeUoLRlXRAuPld38yfKavGZm3BOKiqhMZRGjUdTtt11J8T2sC53iiu7Nl1KJJRlHu72xZM8WhM2a4mlXKkua5_ymDcD7uUiUMLNmPDBU6dX/s2048/IMG_4182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4X_RKChs5tIRaQAqIeGv34Rl2JK8mJTt5uKeUoLRlXRAuPld38yfKavGZm3BOKiqhMZRGjUdTtt11J8T2sC53iiu7Nl1KJJRlHu72xZM8WhM2a4mlXKkua5_ymDcD7uUiUMLNmPDBU6dX/s320/IMG_4182.JPG" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Oaxaca, one of 32 states, is located in Southwestern Mexico. It is bordered by the states of Guerrero to the west, Puebla to the northwest, Veracruz to the north, and Chiapas to the east. To the south, Oaxaca has a significant coastline on the Pacific Ocean.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Oaxaca is also one of the most biologically diverse states in Mexico, ranking in the top three, along with Chiapas and Veracruz, for numbers of reptiles, amphibians, mammals and plants.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Evidence of human habitation dating back to about 11,000 years BC. By 500 BC, the central valleys of Oaxaca were mostly inhabited by the Zapotecs, with the Mixtecs on the western side. These two groups were often in conflict throughout the pre-Hispanic period. Starting from AD 750 previous large urban centers such as Monte Alban fell across the Oaxaca area and smaller dominions grew and evolved until the Spanish Conquest in 1521.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The indiginous peoples of the Zapotecs, the Mixteca, the Mazatecas and the Cuicatecas, for the most part, chose not to fight the newcomers, instead negotiating to keep most of the old hierarchy but with handing over ultimate authority to the Spanish. Not surpringly, the Spanish conquest and subsequent colonization had a devastating effect on the native population, due to European diseases and forced labor.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">For much of the colonial period, the state (then an intendencia or province) was relatively isolated with few roads and other forms of communication. Most politics and social issues were strictly on the local level. Despite Spanish domination, the indigenous peoples of Oaxaca have maintained much of their culture and identity, more so than most other places in Mexico. Part of this is due to the geography of the land, making many communities isolated.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The state of Oaxaca became a state in 1824 with Jose Maria Murguia named as its first governor. After the Independence of Mexico in 1821, the city of Oaxaca, changed from Antequera, became the capitol municipality of the state of Oaxaca. In 1872, "de Juárez" was added to the city name to honor Benito Juárez, where he began his legal and political career.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Moving to the present we spent another day exploring parts of the city. In part exploring for a shop to purchase an extra layer of clothing, wishing we had brought more with us. Unfortunately, shops in and around the zocala stock tight sports wear, or, more fashionable outwear that isn’t practical.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">A few more errands included picking up some mezcal from the market from a specific shop. Zig-zagging through the mercado we did finally come upon the correct shop and the correct brand of joven mezcal, purchased form a nice young man, Marco. It remains to be seen if this was a wise choice or not.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">We also stopped at another restaurant recommended by Paul and Gloria, Yeatman. Not particularly overwhelming fare but certainly inexpensive.</span></div><div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Returning to our apartment we took a little time to rest before heading out to the super mercado, Chaudri to replenish cereal, buy a dish towel (the one in the kitchen needed replacing) and a set of tools to be given to Manuel. Then back home in time for happy hour, dinner and a movie. Well, a video on a laptop.</span></div></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 9 - Week 2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVLlkZAGNyTJcYy7Kf_yybS35KQ58o5ia8vIuEW0pheR-EqS0ttasd8rWuYYteCFxGfqgFB-LNgTSfpwMPibfR-6nkPxiRJzUrilW7DyBk1Hy8SfJC21q3pWyBoTcppJKRBM_Ct9xx-6RK/s2048/IMG_4328.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1568" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVLlkZAGNyTJcYy7Kf_yybS35KQ58o5ia8vIuEW0pheR-EqS0ttasd8rWuYYteCFxGfqgFB-LNgTSfpwMPibfR-6nkPxiRJzUrilW7DyBk1Hy8SfJC21q3pWyBoTcppJKRBM_Ct9xx-6RK/s320/IMG_4328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://www.thoughtco.com/monte-alban-capital-city-of-zapotec-civilization-169501" target="_blank">Monte Albán</a>, a large pre-Columbian archaeological site was the ancient center of Zapotec and Mixtec culture. It is located approximately 7 miles from Oaxaca City. Getting there we rode a shuttle service offered by a nearby hotel, Hotel Rivera de Angels, about a ten minute walk away from our apartment. For a mere $60 pesos per person. $80 per person admission.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The shuttle runs every half hour from the hotel starting at 8:30am. Returning from Monte Albán, shuttles departed on the hour beginning at Noon. We’ve observed that most folks, both tourists and locals, don’t start showing up in numbers on city streets until well after 9:00am. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We paid of shuttle fee, received a receipt we would need to show the driver upon our return trip, and were ushered to benches in the hotel courtyard to await our ride. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">It turned out that the only other people going at 8:30am was a couple from Pennsylvania, Sergio and Jessica, and their two small children. By some odd coincidence, we had previously met Sergio in the super mercado a few days earlier while we were asking one of the employees where to find “nueces” or walnuts. He had offered to translate. We knew the word for nuts - “nueces” but the employee didn’t fully understand “nueces” until Sergio intervened. Maybe it was our Wisconsin accent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Anyway, Sergio, who originally hailed from New York and parents were Cuban, and Jessica, had like us, sold everything and were now exploring with their children. More power to them for finding the resolve, specially with to young children in tow (who were absolutely adorable and so well behaved).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The drive to Monte Albán took us up in elevation to 6,400 feet providing us our first overview of just how large Oaxaca is, sprawled along the foothills of the Sierra Madre at the base of the Cerro del Fortín.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Oaxaca is nicknamed "la Verde Antequera" (the green Antequera) due to its prior name (Nueva Antequera) and the variety of structures built from a native green stone.The name Oaxaca is derived from the Nahuatl name for the place, Huaxyacac, which was Hispanicized to Guajaca, and later spelled Oaxaca.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The van dropped us off at the base of a drive that led up to the museum/visitor center where we purchased our admission tickets. After touring the interior of the museum which offered fine examples of various pottery and other cultural activities, and after availing our selves of the baños, we were ready to begin walking the ruins.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The site rests upon an artificially leveled ridge and is characterized by several hundred artificial terraces, and a dozen clusters of mounded architecture covering the entire ridge line and surrounding flanks. It contains great plazas, truncated pyramids, a court for playing the ball game tlachtli, underground passageways, and about 170 tombs, the most elaborate yet uncovered in the Americas.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Depicted in the museum and again found scattered around the site are carved stone monuments depicting the so-called "Danzantes" (literally, dancers) represent naked men in contorted and twisted poses, some of them genitally mutilated. The 19th century notion that they depict “dancers” has is now been largely discredited, and these monuments, dating to the earliest period of occupation at the site (Monte Albán I), are now seen to clearly represent tortured, sacrificed war prisoners, some identified by name, and may depict leaders of competing centers and villages captured by Monte Albán. Beautiful to look at but grisly when you think of what they represent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Several pieces of evidence throughout the architecture of the site suggest that there was social stratification within the settlement. Walls that were as large as nine meters tall and twenty meters wide were built around the settlement and would have been used not only to create a boundary between Monte Albán and neighboring settlements but also prove the power of the elites within the community. Apparently social separation by class isn’t a new thing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Besides being one of the earliest cities of Mesoamerica, Monte Albán's importance stems also from its role as the pre-eminent Zapotec socio-political and economic center for close to a thousand years. Founded toward the end of the Middle Formative period at around 500 BC, Monte Albán had become the capital of a large-scale expansionist polity (the form or constitution of a politically organized unit, or, the form of government of a religious denomination) that dominated much of the Oaxacan highlands and interacted with other Mesoamerican regional states such as Teotihuacan to the north.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The influence of the Teotihuacán architectural style is evident. Monte Albán eventually lost its political preeminence, and its structures began to decay up to the Spanish conquest in the 16th century when the Mixtec inhabited the site; they reused some of the old Zapotec tombs, and the two cultures became fused.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The site was declared a universal heritage site in 1987.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Visiting the site is kind of like visiting the Grand Canyon where the photos did not do it justice until you see it for yourself. Oh, and there are a zillion tall stone steps if you wish to view from higher vantage points. Ongoing continuing archeological and restoration activities were in evidence during our visit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Catching our van back to the hotel we decided, with little difficulty, to have a mid-afternoon lunch and forego a large dinner. We dropped our backpack and binoculars at the apartment, then walked a block and a half to what has become our favorite local restaurant, La Rambra. Hamburguesa de cameronés para Tom y hamburguesa de portebella para Carol. Tom had a local soda Jega-Cola. Zega-Cola is made a mere 18 miles away from Oaxaca, in a workshop in Santa Ana Zegache, an agrarian Zapotec village. A mortar and pestle is used to pound Arabic gum which is added to seven oils, including cinnamon, lavender, orange, lime and lemon. Final ingredients are citric acid and caffeine, plus caramel for color giving it a near Coca-Cola taste but with all organic, natural ingredients. Would be great with rum, too!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Owing to the walking ’til we dropped we opted to skip happy hour and simply relax with some tea and a little reading before hitting the hay.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 10 - Week 2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City - Oaxaca Museum of Cultures</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZnXcqc2ejUBRTYl-7-y6e_n6JtMH2jQOrQIMAb_nKQMUJ80eB_AExCtOqKRNSW09NdrGRVEPMOPhxl_zvcXbchHC-22Bem9bn-WlSRvhkzCvmMnLGwcxa0rqnRgwrRbeNn6OEL7UOAMs4/s2048/IMG_5931.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1370" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZnXcqc2ejUBRTYl-7-y6e_n6JtMH2jQOrQIMAb_nKQMUJ80eB_AExCtOqKRNSW09NdrGRVEPMOPhxl_zvcXbchHC-22Bem9bn-WlSRvhkzCvmMnLGwcxa0rqnRgwrRbeNn6OEL7UOAMs4/s320/IMG_5931.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span> </span>Checking our e-mail we found a note from Edgar, the fellow who bands birds at the ethnobotanical garden. He wrote to say that the banding session for this month was full but that we were welcome to join in the Feb 23 session. We marked our calendar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Today was a combination of shopping and scouting for possible areas that our guests on our upcoming bird tour in March may want to visit on their free day prior to the tour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Carol had been on the hunt for an extra layer of clothes to ward off some of the late afternoon chill. Unable thus far to find anything suitable (apparently it has to be fashionable as well as fit well) in many of the local shops, she learned of a women’s apparel store a few blocks beyond the zocala. We also needed to replenish of supply of coca-cola for adult beverages.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Walking on the narrow streets and sidewalks, ever mindful of traffic, demands that one be looking down (uneven sidewalks, curbs), left and right (other pedestrians) and assuming an aggressive posture when needed crossing streets. Fortunately many drivers, specially the taxi drivers, will stop (but not always) and wave us across. As the tempo of daily traffic, both motorized and pedestrian picks up, so too is the need to be increasingly “situationally aware”. It doesn’t take long to read the flow and go with it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The women’s apparel shop turned out to have a long-sleeved flannel shirt to Carol’s liking. We also decided that we should stop and have a decent cup of coffee and perhaps something light to eat. And as we have discovered there are no shortages of places to try.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As we walked back toward the zocala via Calle Independencia, we passed what appeared to be a rather high-end hotel, “Parador de San Miquel”. A contemporary 4-star boutique hotel as it turned out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Ensconced in the hotel was a comfortable looking restaurant, “El Anariego” with very reasonable rates. We managed to find a small table in a brightly lit courtyard which housed a number of caged bird cage, mostly mockingbirds. Very musically inclined, they serenaded us with a variety calls and songs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We opted for a light breakfast along with our coffee. Interesting side bar: some restaurants, after you are seated and have ordered, will provide a small basket of bread and/or postels along with butter and jams. Much like getting a complimentary a bowl of chips and salsa. Only in these instances, they are not complimentary, which you only discover when presented with the bill. Sneaky. We need to learn to refuse the offering when served - or at least be aware of the extra charge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Recalling our meeting with a weaver, Alex Martinez at a workshop at Cochise College in Sierra Vista, we further recalled that he had an uncle, a master weaver living in Oaxaca. Via Google we learned that Alex’s uncle, Luiz Martinez, had a shop in the 400 block of the alcalá (the pedestrian walkway).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Making our way up the alcalá in search of Luiz’s shop, we poked around - scouted - in a number of shops looking at ceramics, jewelry and some incredible brightly painted Oaxacan carvings. All for the benefit of our our friends who would be joining us in March. It was a tough assignment but we soldiered on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">At the corner of Calle Abasolo and the alcalá, we found both the shop and Luiz. We introduced ourselves and that we had met Alex. He graciously welcomed us to sit and talk. We informed him that some of the group we have coming for the bird tour would very much like to meet him and peruse his family’s exquisite weavings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">His shop is across the street from Santa Dominga Church where within is found the <a href="https://sic.gob.mx/ficha.php?table=museo&table_id=105" target="_blank">Museum of Oaxaca Cultures</a> and has an exhibit of the contents unearthed in Tomb 7 at Monte Albán we very much wanted to see.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Designed by Dominican friars and built by native workers, Santa Domingo church and former convent, is one of the finest examples of Oaxacan religious architecture in Mexico. Given the collision of differing cultures and traditions and the fact that Oaxaca is subject to seismic activity, the fact that the structure has endured is quite remarkable.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Built on a grand scale the decoration of the church is hyper-ornate while in the former convent, open spaces and elegant arcades predominate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Construction of the complex began in 1575 and was not completed until 1608. Construction of the main church and convent was completed in 1619. A Rosary chapel was added in 1731. It at one time housed 150 Dominican friars and novices and was also the center of a Dominican education center.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">During the War of Independence through the Mexican Revolution, the church (and convent) was occupied by military troops of various factions, which resulted in the destruction of much of the original interior decoration. Beginning in the 1930’s the church and a small section of the convent was returned to the Dominicans. In 1972 a museum was opened in one section of the convent. 1994 saw the final removal of all military personnel and for the next four years a major restoration took place.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The Santo Domingo Cultural Center was inaugurated in 1998 consisting of the Oaxacan Museum of Cultures (Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca), the Francisco Burgoa library, the Nestor Sanchez periodicals library, and an ethnobotanical garden.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The museum portion has 23 permanent exhibition rooms taking one from historical pre-Hispanic times through to the colonial period and Mexican independence. By far the most impressive display is the room showing the “Treasures of Tomb 7” unearthed at Monte Albán where we had visited the day before.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The Francisco de Burgoa library contains over 30,000 volumes published between 1484 and 1940 plus a reading room. We can only imagine the number of historians who have used the rich research resources of this library.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The ethnobotanical garden was first instigated by Francisco Toledo, a well known artist/activist, with not only a focus on the plants but on their cultural significance. Entrance to the gardens is restricted to guided tours. This is also the location we plan to visit in February for the monthly bird banding session.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The museum was our main target to explore today. Without a doubt, even if one has limited time visiting Oaxaca City, it is a not-to-be-missed site.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">It seems that whenever we’re out and about we bump into people we’ve recently met in Oaxaca. Mainly our neighbors but today we ran into people we’d seen briefly during our walkabout at Monte Albán. Fascinating.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">After our tour of the museum we stopped in a few more shops near the church then headed back to apartment. Along the way we picked up the coca-cola we were seeking plus Carol found a light shawl for the chilly nights. Traffic always picks up in the afternoon so we were glad to be back at the apartment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Happy hour again on the roof but there was a bit of a social twist. A couple in a ground floor apartment were celebrating their birthdays and had invited all the neighbors, plus many friends now living outside the complex, for cake and drinks at 7:30. Kind of an extension to happy hour with a brief time in between to have dinner. To prepare for the party held in the courtyard, the caretakers had scooped up many of the plastic chairs scattered around, cleverly lowering the ones from the second story by ropes thus avoiding several trips up and down the concrete steps.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="background-color: white;">It turned out to be quite the party and again, another opportunity to meet yet more folks who have been long time visitors to the city. What better way to learn about yet more things to do! Plus we could have our cake and eat it too.</span><span style="font-stretch: normal; letter-spacing: 0.5px; line-height: normal;"><i>1/25/2020</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 11 - Week 2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikCDOTqrYOx82kaSQ591zu92U8kzQCX6b_83cSvNFfdwxlDS15eDQyhjsEh0UhSvvQOMWK7c0_kJDJElyIVReSCP0NaRbp9LHzYKwR1UIDS-PylEs8tK7_pfn6d6g44ulD6WEg9L6qbged/s2048/IMG_5958.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1630" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikCDOTqrYOx82kaSQ591zu92U8kzQCX6b_83cSvNFfdwxlDS15eDQyhjsEh0UhSvvQOMWK7c0_kJDJElyIVReSCP0NaRbp9LHzYKwR1UIDS-PylEs8tK7_pfn6d6g44ulD6WEg9L6qbged/s320/IMG_5958.jpg" /></a></div><br />Sabádo, Saturday. Today we opted to take a bit of a breather from our daily 4 or 5 mile hikes. Get caught up on e-mail correspondence, deal with editing and posting all the photos from our visit to Santa Domingo, and make a trek to and from the super mercado for groceries.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">One of our neighbors asked if we wanted to borrow a Mr. Coffee coffee maker a previous tenant had left behind and which was not being used. Not big fans of the brewing capabilities of a Mr. Coffee. But given we had up to now been drinking instant coffee, we thought this would be a step up. To that end we purchased some locally grown coffee and coffee filters.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Cloudy and overcast day. Other than our venture out to the mercado, we pretty much put up our feet. Also took a little time to plan for some other outings. Like tomorrow we’ll walk up to Juarez Llano park to meet with the local bird club and see what they’re all about.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">One of our neighbors had compiled a list of things do do and places to visit and had ranked suggestions by “if you only had a week, or two weeks, or just a day…”, basically prioritizing the list based on the amount of time one had available. Looking at the list and thinking we had a lot of time, we actually we don’t! Some we’d already accomplished since arriving but still a lot left on the list. Best get cracking!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 12 - Week 2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City - Birding</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NZAmV3_EOEVNp9-4BiRvhUn_I1V5ucOvfWf7AfcAJSoMHyTxo7U0U2Ca12PIX0NTwCVBFu43tYV_BsTIVbvblQmyvtn2Yn0rUVOqWSCGUUK_PhTubhmP302tzdPg0kzSrT0VByzITroL/s2048/IMG_5087.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1256" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NZAmV3_EOEVNp9-4BiRvhUn_I1V5ucOvfWf7AfcAJSoMHyTxo7U0U2Ca12PIX0NTwCVBFu43tYV_BsTIVbvblQmyvtn2Yn0rUVOqWSCGUUK_PhTubhmP302tzdPg0kzSrT0VByzITroL/s320/IMG_5087.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />As mentioned previously, on Friday night past, a couple in an apartment on the first floor next to the street had thrown a birthday party for themselves. All the neighbors were invited plus several friends living outside Villa Maria. Probably around 50 total. Nice way to meet more folks and hear about yet more opportunities to explore Oaxaca City.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Alas, the last people to leave the party failed to pull the gate all the way shut (i.e., in a locked state). And the couple, who’s ultimate responsibility it was to check on the gate, had failed to do so. The next morning when a taxi driver arrived at 5:30 he discovered the unlocked gate and word filtered back to Maria.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">She took the time to handwrite several notes - lengthy hand written notes - reminding everyone to take precautions. For whatever reason we were spared a note. But safety is, and should be, everyone’s concern. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Today we arose earlier than usual so we could be out the door by 7:15am. A local informal bird group meets every Sunday morning at the southeast corner of Juarez Llano Park at 7:55am. We didn’t want to be late.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Arriving fashionable early at 7:35am we found no one was at the corner but a few minutes later, a couple, Tom and Mary, showed up. Mary wasn’t a birder - she was just making sure that Tom arrived at the correct location. Like us, this was Tom’s first outing with the group. He lived in Ajo , AZ and knew the area around our neck of the woods, Sierra Vista, very well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Shortly after meeting Tom, a single woman from New York walked up and introduced herself as Linda. This was Linda’s first time in Oaxaca, here on a two week vacation. In fact, it was one of her first trips out of the U.S.. Unfortunately this was her next to last day in Oaxaca and thus far had been stymied - specially as a single woman traveling alone - to find suitable birding trails.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Eventually, more people gathered. Some, like us, for the first time with the group. But a few others, “regulars”, arrived and took charge. A decision was made to walk up toward the Guelaguetza Auditorium on Fortin Hill.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Since colonial times the Guelaguetza festival has been celebrated on the Fortin Hill (Cerro del Fortin). In the 1970s a special auditorium was built specifically for this celebration, though other events are held at the auditorium throughout the year. It has seating for 11,000 people with a large fabric roof which can be opened and closed as needed. Built into the hill, spectators looking down at the stage and are presented with a backdrop of the city below.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">On our way to the auditorium we stopped at a water treatment plant where several pipes had small amounts of water leaking. Many birds were attracted to the water. Some to drink and others to bathe. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Rusfous-backed Thrushes were easily seen. Nashville Warblers in good numbers as well as Townsend’s Warblers. A female Ladder-backed Woodpecker and in the distance a pair of Red-lored Parrots.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Continuing on involved ascending lots of steps as we poked and prodded our way looking for more birds. Highlight was several Gray Silky Flycatchers. Eventually we reached the auditorium then continued further up hill toward the site of a planetarium, passing through more dry shrub and grasses. Cinnamon-rumped Seedeater was of particular interest. A furtive look at a dove walking away in dense shrub had everyone speculating on species but in the end, not enough field marks were seen to assign a name. As the daytime temp rose, we turned back and retraced our route to the alcala to look for a place to grab a bite to eat. By now all the group had dispersed and we were left to our own devices.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As we stood at one corner trying to decide where to eat, a woman stopped and asked if we needed help finding something. Mind reader I guess. Or maybe it was Carol's crazed hunger look.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">In any event, she gave us two suggestions. One for a German restaurant and one for a Mexican restaurant. The latter was more on our route back to the apartment but after a few blocks we couldn't find the place based on her description. Something to do with the bones of a dead animal. The German restaurant, however, was easier to find. Well, the building was easier to find. The restaurant was finally found by entering the building, going into a courtyard, up a flight of stairs and across a catwalk. Not very well signed but once we arrived we were thrilled with the place.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">“<a href="https://www.facebook.com/BerlinaOaxaca/" target="_blank">Berlina</a>”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A German restaurant? Quite. Bratwurst was on the menu. Plus sauerkraut. And, they had a vast selection of good beer - many local craft beers. It was overwhelming. Eric, our waiter, suggested we split the "Bierwurst", a pork brat cooked in a dark beer, presented with cheese, french fries, and a pasta salad plus fresh baked bread. Perfect size for us. And it was yummy, specially the rye bread.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Eric brought out five stouts - four from Oaxaca and one from Mexico City. I went for the one with 8.2% alcohol content. Felt like a nap at the end of the meal. “Can we rent this table?" Carol had a Coke. What can I say.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The woman who owns the Berlina is indeed from Germany. And boy, does she know how to bake bread! We're going to have to go back. Maybe when Marge is here. By the way, Berlina makes a very good mezcal margarita. So they say. Carol sampled some of the local gin and found it to her liking. We’ve not found much in the way of gin for her to have any martinis but we did get a lead on where to buy this gin. There’s hope.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We have found that Appleton Special Rum is in fact very inexpensive compared to back in the states so there’s that. And, we were told that on Super Bowl Sunday, the super mercado marks all their liquor down by 30%. That will be worth checking out. Might have to take a taxi back.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Back on the alcala we searched for and found a shop, Voces de Copal. It had some of the finest alebrijes - brightly painted wood carvings - we've seen. This is one shop our birding group on their free day must see.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Having learned to poke our heads into buildings we pass, we found another museum, the museum of contemporary art of Oaxaca, this one featuring the works of Robert Rébora. Upstairs another media inspired exhibition of videos produced by various artists captured many aspects of Mexican life from food production to scenes from recent protests. The exhibit consisted of multiple small and large screens using video projectors, flat panel TVs and older VCRs. It being Sunday, entrance was free. Free is good.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We stopped at a small corner mercado to pickup some more Coke which turned out cheaper than buying at the super mercado. And easier to carry back since it is a shorter distance to our apartment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Our neighbors who told us about the bird banding session which they were able to attend today, were on their way out to a concert. They would miss happy hour where we’d hoped we would hear more about the banding. Just as well since after our over six mile jaunt we were too pooped to participate. Instead a meal of homemade chili (maybe next time Carol will remember to add the beans?), we made a short night of it retiring a bit early.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Unfortunately, we had to decline an offer to purchase tickets for the upcoming Porgy and Bess presentation at the local opera house owing to the fact that it occurred on the same night as the mezcal tasting. It didn’t take a rocket scientist to understand that walking to the opera house in an inebriated condition probably wouldn’t be the cleverest of moves. Maybe in our younger years? Now, we were older and wiser. Well, older.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 13 - Week 2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City</span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAEjzpQp_HBwYLg_NDq8edQmM_KLJW-VOmpv-GdOkkn3CeLJhRCDx9SQCuy-hFqzDOauPoRy178SOIJCmS3p4fVt_Mx-Mfdc8nTPvJZbO8mDHir22NpK8IRQ8ZCH-lknDlJG6iH09EjbxS/s2048/IMG_4558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1603" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAEjzpQp_HBwYLg_NDq8edQmM_KLJW-VOmpv-GdOkkn3CeLJhRCDx9SQCuy-hFqzDOauPoRy178SOIJCmS3p4fVt_Mx-Mfdc8nTPvJZbO8mDHir22NpK8IRQ8ZCH-lknDlJG6iH09EjbxS/s320/IMG_4558.jpg" /></a></div><br />Not having to get up so early we slept in this morning - past 6:30am. Our first outing was to drop off laundry at a local laundry about a block and a half away. They charge by the pound - our two kilos came to $45 pesos - roughly $2.50 USD for two pairs of shorts, 8 shirts. They'll be ready tomorrow at 5:00pm.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">There was a Messenger message from Hector, the former Conto Nuevo musician Tom had met in 1990, now living in Veracruz. The distance to Veracruz is about eight hours by bus so when Hector mentioned he was coming to Oaxaca in early February for a weekend, Tom was overjoyed. They still have to work out the details of where to meet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">A quick round trip to a mercola for veggies and bananas (the small sweet ones). Out again to try the Chocolate Hotel ("La Chocolate y Mole La Soledad), a family business started in the 1930's. You can order just about any combination of chocolate ingredients to be made up on the spot. The chocolate in Oaxaca tends to be a bit gritty (not unpleasantly so) from the chocolates we find in the states. We were presented with several choices of hot chocolate. We settled on the Chocolate Especial using milk with almonds and cinnamon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The serving came in a large bowl which was quite filling (glad we declined the bread). Also bought a small package of chocolate samples. There were also three moles with chips to sample. I fear Carol has decided she doesn't like moles (I very much liked what I sampled). She has also indicated she's not keen on mezcal. Oh, oh.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">We forged on to Boulenc for a light lunch. Americano frio (iced coffee for me) and orange juice for Carol. She opted for the croissant with ham and cheese and I had the croissant with kale and spinach and tomato. You know me. Ever so health conscious.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">From there we ventured three blocks further to seek out one of the three local craft beer joints recommended on a Oaxaca craft beer web site . This one was La Santisima Flor de Lupulo. Right next door was Gormund Deli, owned by the brewery. Tempted to try a flight of beer but after lunch and all that chocolate… We'll wait for another day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">While having lunch at Boulenc we chatted with a young couple from California and gave them several tips on a few of our favorite places for which they were grateful. Imagine us. Only here ten days and we’re already able to give advice. While perusing the menu at La Santisima, we bumped into a youngish couple with a small child, also from California and shared some local info. Checking out a few shops along the way back to our apartment, we bumped into more couples from California. It must have been California day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Day 14 - Week 2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;">Oaxaca City - On a misón</span></div><div style="font-size: 30px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; letter-spacing: 1.2px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisNSto-vdhuBV5LvR-fbVkRfjZ_qI3h8bNyNxZqUi5pngDb-orHljLp7GYODaPLqQLqtB83BSNk3P86IaCeDp4xHUA4iNG98KHShybDbk8SOS8B_PkygXQUSSs_mXrc4F8J7uQaOs84HLA/s2668/IMG_4663.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="2668" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisNSto-vdhuBV5LvR-fbVkRfjZ_qI3h8bNyNxZqUi5pngDb-orHljLp7GYODaPLqQLqtB83BSNk3P86IaCeDp4xHUA4iNG98KHShybDbk8SOS8B_PkygXQUSSs_mXrc4F8J7uQaOs84HLA/s320/IMG_4663.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Our mission for today was to determine the precise breakfast schedule and offerings at the Hotel Misión where our birding group will be staying during the March tour. Plus it was a good opportunity to get a feel for the lay of the land and see for ourselves what the hotel was all about.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">This required walking a handful of blocks north of Juarez Llano Park and crossing a major thoroughfare. On the way we stopped at Marco Polo restaurant to inquire about making a reservation for our group during their free day prior to the beginning of the tour. Turns out they could handle a group of twelve with enough advance notice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Arriving at Misón we we stopped at the temporary reception area (the regular location was receiving a major facelift) to request a tour of the facility. After determining that we did have a group coming, a young woman who spoke broken English, escorted us through the property. She showed us one of the rooms we would be using plus the restaurant. The main reception area being remodeled, we were assured, would be finished by March 1. The hotel owner’s daughter was being married and the reception was going to be at the hotel. No doubt it would be done by the appointed date and before our group’s arrival.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">After our hotel tour we walked to the ethnobotanical garden to purchase tickets for the 11:00am tour. Tickets were not being sold just yet so we walked a short distance to a small cafe to have coffee and share a croissant filled with a blackberry filling before returning to the gardens.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The process to purchasing tickets was a bit odd. We were first asked to be seated in a long line of chairs against a wall. One of the attendants explained some of the basic rules that we would be called up, in the order we were seated, to go to the ticket office. Only one member of a family or group would need to collect tickets. When it was my turned I purchased our tickets and returned to my seat. Shortly thereafter, a guide called us to another area to begin the tour. Probably 45 of us in the group.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The tour (given in English) wound up being heavy on the “ethno” portion and light on the “botanical” portion. Interesting. But, we had read enough about how the botanical garden’s history and the indigenous people’s cultural uses. We had brought our binoculars as the gardens are supposed to be good for birding. And we did pick up a few birds but given the size of the group and that we had to keep moving, mainly on narrow trails, any serious birding was nearly impossible. We did happen to run into another birder, Tom, who had been on our Sunday morning bird walk a few days earlier.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Afterward it was time for lunch. We made our way to another restaurant, the Pan Am, a recommendation by one of our neighbors. My highlight was a delicious horchata frappe topped with whipped cream and cinnamon. We also wanted to peruse the place to see if it would hold our group for lunch. Again, probably with a prior reservation, it could work.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">As is so typical, we poked our way around the area sticking our heads into doorways and corridors that looked interesting. We found a small galería (gallery) of contemporary ceramics. The artist, Vicente Hernández, is the same artist who created small cups used for sipping mezcal that one of our neighbors used.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Another courtyard we stumbled upon was the “Nacimiento Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos” which contained a series of 25 photographs depicting two settlements in the central valley. The photos, first taken in the 1950’s and again in 2019, with the photographer standing in the same spot years later. The comparison illustrated how urbanization gradually replaces agricultural landscapes; the deforestation and re-forestation. The early photographs were the works of Dr. Juan Ignacio Bustamante Vasconcelos, a military physician.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">During our walkabouts we’ve learned that some street names change depending upon whether or not one is east or west of certain north south calles (streets). There doesn’t seem to be a pattern. If an address is on Calle Mina and we’re walking west on Calle Arteaga, that beyond the north-south calle Bustamante, the street name changes. Also, building address numbers don’t always follow a numerical sequence. However, remembering finding addresses in Costa Rica…Costa Rica doesn’t use street names OR numbers. When taking a taxi one simply recites the nearby landmark of commercial building nearest where you want to go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Another interesting exhibit we found was the Diablos de Juxtlauca, the Devils of Juxtlauca, a cave and archaeological site in the Mexican state of Guerrero. It was in the Centro Cultural San Pablo which also has a very nice library. There was a smaller exhibit of textiles on loan from the textile museum. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">The artist, Alejandro Vera Guzmán, carved life sized wooden masks incorporating all manner of colors and design. The masks are worn from time to time in public during certain performances or festivals. They represent “spectacular guardians of the moral order” as the mask allows a “means to be another”. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: helvetica;">Having put in our 5+ miles we returned to relax a bit in the apartment, catch up on email and reading. At 5:00pm Tom retrieved our laundry. Then it was happy hour. Dinner was more chili - this time with beans - then off to bed.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-29974646569030561642020-08-28T10:01:00.001-07:002020-11-27T10:28:16.055-08:00Oaxaca 2020 Intro and Week 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Our family and friends kept asking, “Where is Oaxaca?”. They also had a problem with saying the name and spelling it. Our reply was always, “It’s pronounced just the way it’s spelled”, or, “It’s spelled just the way it’s pronounced.” Understandably, unless you speak Spanish, “Oaxaca” is absolutely confusing. As for the spelling you just memorize it - but as for pronouncing it, phonetically, it’s “wah-HOCK-kah”. See? Just the way it’s spelled. Compared to other names like “Ixtlahuaca” or “Tlacochahuaya” it’s dead easy.</div>
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A trip to Oaxaca has been on our bucket list for a long, long time. Tom was already familiar with the state and city of the same name through connections made at Lawrence University since the 1990’s. We have birding friends who have recommended it as a birding destination (that alone would have gotten us there). Then there was the lure of a culture rich with food, art, music and history.</div>
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When friends Frank and Paul in Las Cruces learned of our plan they recalled staying in an apartment at Villa Maria Apartments in Oaxaca some 25 years ago. Was Villa Maria still in business? A search on the Internet brought up a web site. They sent an email. Yes, Villa Maria was still a going concern. Maria, who remembered them from all those years ago was delighted to hear form them. Without a doubt, Frank and Paul are very memorable so it came as no surprise that Maria recalled them. Through their recommendation and assurances to Maria that we were “good people”, we were able to book an apartment for three months (January-March) of 2020.</div>
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This wouldn’t be our first international extended stay. We had volunteered in Ecuador at a bird lodge for two months. And we had rented a cabin in Costa Rica for six weeks prior to one of our Costa Rica bird tours. It was simply a matter of working out the logistics.</div>
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About the same time, friends Glenn and Diane Chambliss had learned of our plan for an extended stay and wondered if they might rent our townhouse for part of the time we were in Mexico. A house in the Sierra Vista area they were renting for the winter wasn’t going to be ready early enough (why anyone would be anxious to escape Wisconsin winter is beyond comprehension). Eventually we settled on a price, delighted to know our home would be in good hands and that Glenn and Diane would be able to avoid snow and cold sooner.</div>
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Our efforts to find a guide for a Oaxaca bird tour kept hitting an adobe brick wall. Either the guides we wanted were already booked, or, the prices were too high with tour companies we’ve used in the past. Things finally fell into place when we contracted with Field Guides, a professional tour company that had come highly recommended. We were easily able to fill the trip with friends we’ve traveled with before. The tour would begin at the end of our stay at Villa Maria. One big plus attracting friends to the tour was that it consisted of day trips run out of a hotel located in Oaxaca City (plus a three day extension to the coast tacked on at the end).</div>
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Our airfare cost was reduced considerably owing to vouchers we’d received form American Airlines as the result of a disastrous experience getting to Costa Rica in 2018. The rent for Villa Maria was gong to be offset by renting out our townhouse - and the cost of living in Oaxaca is far less than here in the states. Yes, this was going to happen.</div>
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While planning for the trip had begun early in 2019, the onset of January 2020 had us in full blown preparation mode. Even though we had rented the apartment for the entire month of January (Maria rents month to month with no option for a pro-rated month), our schedule wouldn’t have us arriving until mid-January. We had offered the apartment rent-free to Frank and Paul during that time but alas, they were too busy.</div>
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We used this time prepare our home for Glenn and Diane’s arrival, creating lists of “how this works” and if something happens “here is a list of contacts”. Rearranging the office and setting up the guest room (they had requested the twin beds be converted into a kingsized bed). Emptying the fridge, rearranging the cupboards, stocking up propane for the fire pit and grill, arranging garage contents so it would accommodate both our car (parked for the duration of our absence) and their car - it seemed an endless task.<br />
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But by mid-January all was in place. Glenn and Diane arrived a few days early so we had time to cover all the possible scenarios (much copious note taking and wine drinking). We even had time to introduce them to a few of our neighbors. On the day of our departure, they drove us to the Tucson airport.</div>
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What follows is the recounting of a Oaxaca journal. A bit of a departure from our regular blog structure as this will go week-by-week. The time flew past so fast while as took every day exploring every nook and cranny of the city and surrounding barrios - and still, we had only scratched the surface.</div><div style="font-family: "avenir next"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: "avenir next"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">One additional twist with our Oaxaca blog reports: there were far too many photos to include in any one blog entry. To remedy this, a separate web site was created to host 100's of photos along with a video and music files. Visit <a href="http://www.portalscards.com/Oaxaca2020/" target="_blank">Oaxaca 2020 Photos</a></div>
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And so it begins: Week One…..</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/15/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">WEEK 1 - Day 1</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Flight from Tucson - Oaxaca</span></div>
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Glenn and Diane’s ride to the airport went smoothly following a quick bite at a very busy but not very spotless McDonald’s in Benson.</div>
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Our flight from Tucson departed on time although as we sat in the same gate area where our last disastrous flight on American Airlines in March 2019 eventually departed, it was still too fresh in our minds. Angst abounded.</div>
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When the 2 hour flight lifted off on time we became a bit more confident that our connecting flight was going to be on time also. And it was. We prefer short layovers, this one was too brief. Deplaning, then racing to the next gate at another terminal, with our two carry-ons via the Dallas/Fort Worth airport’s Sky Tram, we barely had time for a potty break before boarding our flight to Oaxaca. Roughly a 27 minute window of time to make our connecting flight. But we made it.</div>
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The plane to Oaxaca was smaller - two seats across each side versus three seats across in our flight to DFW. The flight was relatively short flight - just over 2.5 hours. Unfortunately the flight into Oaxaca had us arriving after nightfall. And since we’d never been to Oaxaca before, arriving in the dark was a bit disconcerting with no visible landmarks to help orient us.</div>
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Passing through immigration took about 20 minutes. Given the short layover in DFW we had wondered if our check bag made the transfer but there it was, sitting on one of the two carousels in this small airport terminal. </div>
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We had filled out the cursory immigration forms before landing, but for whatever reason, American hadn’t given us a customs declaration form. After passing our luggage and backpacks through the one and only custom’s scanning device, we had to fill out a custom’s form on the spot to satisfy the customs agent.</div>
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As mentioned, the airport is small. There was a short row of kiosks with a cambio (money exchange), a couple of car rental agencies, and a taxi counter. Maria, our landlady, had told us that the fee for a taxi to Villa Maria would be $90 pesos per person. That was very helpful as the sign at the taxi kiosk offered different rates for Zona 1 and Zone 2, but with little other information about which Zona we needed to go. But, based on the price we sorted out to ask for two taxi receipts for Zona 1.</div>
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The taxi arrangement worked through a “collectivo” - a cooperative taxi system. Typically in many countries once outside the terminal one is besieged with offers for taxis. Not here. In fact if you didn’t know to stop at the taxi kiosk and simply forged ahead outside you would be out of luck getting a taxi.</div>
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With this system, you present your receipts to someone outside - a taxi concierge - who then assigns you to a taxi van shared with other travelers. One did have the option of paying quite a bit more for a personal taxi but we’re used to sharing taxis. We had printed Villa Maria’s address on a slip of paper which we showed the driver thereby bypassing any possible language miscommunications.</div>
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The ride to Villa Maria lasted about 20 minutes as we wound through several streets and intersections. Again, without visual landmarks, we were really turned around when we arrived. We also were pleased that we decided not to rent a car because we would have had no idea where we were going at night (or in the daytime for that matter!) let alone where to safely park.</div>
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Upon our arrival, the driver unloaded our bags onto the curb. As we stood there in the dark in front of Villa Maria trying to figure out where the door bell was to alert Mara of our arrival, an American name Bob, sitting on a nearby stoop enjoying a cigarette, asked if we needed help. It turned out that Bob was also one of Maria’s tenants and knew where the doorbell was located.</div>
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In our brief conversation with Bob while waiting for Maria to appear, Carol mentioned how she would “kill for a cold beer right about now”. Bob disappeared and a moment later reappeared with a large cold can of beer just about the time Maria appeared.</div>
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The reason we wound up at Villa Maria in the first place had first begun with a conversation with our friends Frank and Paul in Las Cruces during one of our overnight stays at their home. They had stayed a Villa Maria’s some 25 years earlier. Was she still in business? A search on Google and sure enough, Villa Maria was still in business. It was through their efforts that we now stood face to face with Maria herself.</div>
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A short woman, well into her 80’s, Maria is a retired attorney and judge. A delightfully friendly and efficient woman with a broad smile and speaking impeccable English, she shepherded us to our second story apartment, apartment “E”, situated above a narrow courtyard filled with wild assortment of vegetation. Though we were tired from our day of travel, we patiently waited while she took us on a brief tour of our apartment which would be home to us for the next 2.5 months.</div>
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Maria left us with a map of the area and few more instructions on where we would be able to shop for food. Too tired to unpack, we headed straight for our bedroom where we enjoyed a good night’s sleep.</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/16/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">WEEK 1 - Day 2</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Oaxaca City</span></div>
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Our first day in Oaxaca was spent mainly orienting ourselves to the apartment and our immediate surroundings.</div>
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Our apartment is one of fourteen. Situated in the historic city central it’s surrounded by several smaller barrios. Older construction of buildings is apparent; some with worn original stucco and exposed clay bricks. The streets are narrow. Our street, Arteaga, is a one-way street with narrow sidewalks. Access to our courtyard is through a large metal gate (we were given two keys - one for our apartment and one for the outer gate). One could easily pass by since there isn’t any signage on the exterior revealing it as Villa Maria. But we recognized it from having done a street view in Google Maps.</div>
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Inside, the courtyard boasts a large somewhat ecceltic collection of plants. A couple of large trees, many potted plants. A wrought iron circular stairway leads to the roof above our row of apartments where there are more potted plants and a view of the surrounding city. Across the courtyard are more apartments with another rooftop accessed by concrete steps.</div>
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Our first goal for the day was to plot a route to the zocala (central city plaza) and a nearby mercado (market) plus a route to the supermarket (super mercado) to stock our larder and pickup a few basic housekeeping supplies.</div>
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Our 3-bedroom spacious and airy apartment is furnished. A living room with a sitting area (sofa and chairs) plus a massive dining table and chairs. Thank goodness, no TV. We learned we could rent one - but why? The kitchen has a small table, fridge and gas stove with enough cooking and eating utensils to get by. Missing is a microwave, a coffee maker, and a toaster. Water out of the tap is not potable but a large jug of fresh water is available (replacements run $20 pesos). There is no hot water in the kitchen.</div>
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The bath has a sink, medicine cabinet and a tiled shower with plenty of hot water (no cold water in the sink). The master bedroom has a queen-sized bed with two end tables with lamps, a small writing table, and a generous closet. The guest bedroom has twin beds and a generous closet. There is a third bedroom but it is locked. We only needed two bedrooms (Carol's sister marge would join for the week preceding the bird tour). Opening the third would have only increased our rent.</div>
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All the floors are tile with a few small throw rugs. No air conditioning. But given the elevation and time of year, there is no need. Lots of windows and there’s always a nice breeze. Housekeeping includes daily emptying of waste baskets, a weekly change of bed linens and towels, plus a thorough cleaning.</div>
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Maria has three male caretakers. Manual, Edgar and El Tio (the eldest). All are hardworking and very trustworthy. It was Manuel who stopped by first thing in the morning to introduce himself and basically repeat the tour of the apartment that Maria had given us the previous evening. All in Spanish. Over the course of the day we met the two other caretakers. Very affable. Like Manuel, El Too speaks no English,. The younger Edgar speaks passable English. But our limited Spanish is more than enough to communicate. That and hand gestures, body language - and smiling a lot.</div>
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Today was also when we began meeting our neighbors. About half are Canadian and the other half from the United States. Most have been coming to Oaxaca and staying at Villa Maria for a number of years. All are friendly and willing to share their vast knowledge of tips on places to shop, eat, and ways to get to each. Maria’s map, while helpful, is a bit hard to read. Thankfully, the internet is pretty decent so we can access Google, email and maps, both on our laptops and iPhones. We have an unlimited plan with Verizon which includes a data and voice plan for Canada and Mexico. Coverage in the area was very good (we were rarely without access to our mapping programs on our phones).</div>
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While there are public taxis and a glut of public buses, walking seems to be the best for our needs. The exercise surely does us a lot of good. After getting turned around a few times we made our way to the zocala (ZOH-cah-lah). A typical zocala is a wide open plaza lined with trees and a few churches, a place for gatherings and events. This zocala was no exception and is very much a hub of social contact and street venders for the surrounding barrios.</div>
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The zocala is about a 10-15 minute walk away. And the mercado, just a few blocks off the zocala, turned out to be a great place to purchase fresh fruits and vegetables.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "avenir next"; text-align: left; text-indent: 18px;">Our first morning with no immediate food in the apartment yet (including all important coffee) we acted upon a tip given by one of our neighbors to stop for breakfast at a small all organic cafe, “La Rambla” on Calle de Rayon just around the corner from our apartment. It turned out to be a great tip. All organic food at a very reasonable price and of course, great coffee. Just be sure when you order 'Americano café', that you order a double.</span></div>
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After a quick return to our apartment and meeting a few more neighbors, we collected our grocery bags and started hoofing it to the super mercado, about a twenty minute walk away.</div>
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Unlike Costa Rica, all the streets have names clearly marked so it’s not too difficult to find one’s way. You just have to get used to learning the names. There are a few north-south streets that when crossed, we find that the east west streets change names. You start out on street X which can change to street Y some blocks later. A little disconcerting but in time we learned.</div>
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The super mercado was indeed super. Super large. And all in Spanish of course. Knowing we couldn’t get everything at once we still wound up with three heavy bags that necessitated a short taxi ride back to Maria’s. By the time we unpacked and sorted things, it was time for happy hour up on the roof. How nice it was to buy Appleton Rum which was fairly inexpensive when compared to prices in the states plus some local beer.</div>
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Happy hour when we were full-time RVing was most always a good time to meet people and this was no exception. Bob from the night before, a few single woman from Canada, Sally and Barb, Stewart and Karen from the states, Claire and Jim (avid birders), and Kathy and Dave from Canada. Another couple George and Patti were from the U.S. This could become a regular thing, we thought. This was also our first introduction to learning about mezcal - "Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, Zambian". "For everything bad, mezcal, and for everything good, as well". Several of the residents have their own mezcal sipping "copitas" (small cups). Clearly, we were going to have to get with the program!</div>
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Our first evening meal consisted of pasta with a cream sauce. Can’t say it was particularly delightful but after such a large breakfast, it was just fine. We’re not here to gain weight. While eating we listened to an audible book. We each still have some paperbacks we’re in the middle of consuming. There is also a lending library here in the complex.</div>
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We mulled over a few more thoughts and plans for what we needed to do the next day then off to bed.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Maria and Carol</span></td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/17/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">WEEK 1 - Day 3</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Oaxaca CITY</span></div>
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It should come as no surprise, oh faithful readers, they we are consummate bird watchers so while we were getting settled and sorted, we were wondering what our urban birding would bring. We’ve been in Mexico before but this was our first visit to the state of Oaxaca. All birds, life birds or not, would still be new Oaxaca birds, including the lowly House Sparrow.</div>
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Carol heard birds in the courtyard and while some were fairly common to us in Arizona, one new bird species was a Dusky Hummingbird, duly noted on our life list.</div>
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During our previous trip to the zocala, we had noticed - without the aide of our binoculars at the time - several birds flitting about in the large trees surrounding the plaza. Today we brought tour binoculars.</div>
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We also chanced upon a young man, Rodrigo, representing “Live Oaxaca”, a tour business covering the city and surrounding historic sites. Normally we tend to avoid these kinds of sales pitches but he turned out to be a most knowledgeable and personable young man. There were a few tours of interest to places we could not get to on our own (or through our bird tour in March). With Marge arriving the week before the tour, she, too, would probably be interested in going with us.</div>
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But birding would have to be put on the back burner for the time being. Our first priority today was to stock up on fresh vegetables and that would require a trip to the nearby mercado.</div>
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Americans who do not travel much are used to going to large box stores. More adventurous shoppers in the U.S. will frequent a farmer’s market when available. Most countries outside the U.S., specially countries south of the U.S. border rely heavily on open air markets which some Americans would no doubt turn their noses up at. But we view these open air mercados as one long day-to-day farmers markets. Nothing like getting fresh veggies and fruits that are not loaded with preservatives and at amazingly cheap prices.<br />
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Bananas, tomatoes, squash, garlic, carrots, grapes, and a host of locally grow specialties. One large bag filled with enough produce for a week and for so little money.</div>
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However, one does have to be mindful of thoroughly washing fresh produce and to that end a small vial of microdyn mixed with water was enough to cleanse the produce of any harmful bacteria.</div>
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To clarify, the bacteria on local produce would not affect the locals who’s digestive system have adapted. Not unlike someone who is not used to eating a lot of seafood who suddenly over indulges. Their digestive system rebels. If we were exposed to unwashed produce for an extended period our systems would also build up a tolerance. We won’t be here that long hence the added preventative measures. No one wants Montezuma’s revenge.</div>
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After dropping off our shopping we again headed back to La Rambra, this time for lunch. We could easily get into the habit of eating a light breakfast then a heavier meal around 2:00 and in the evening, a light meal if any meal at all. It's how the locals eat.</div>
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The rest of the afternoon was spent plotting out a few moves for the next day. We were given several tips on places we needed to visit. In particular, Claire and Jim from Canada area are avid birders. We got a few good leads to visit some jardins (gardens). From past trips to other locations in the Americas we’ve learned that visiting botanical gardens can produce some pretty good birding.</div>
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But before we knew it, it was time for happy hour. And even more tips on still more places to visit. We needed to start bringing a notebook. Our evening meal was a simple bowl of chicken noodle soup and some sliced bread.</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/18/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">WEEK 1 - Day 4</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Oaxaca City</span></div>
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With a lot of our immediate shopping needs out of the way, this was our first real opportunity to explore a few of the places we’d noted worth visiting.</div>
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Again, all these are places easily gotten to on foot. Negotiating the local streets is pretty easy as long as one has a sense of where one is going. It’s going to take a bit before we’re familiar with all the street names but having Maps on the phones helps a lot. Plus Maria’s paper map (but there must be a better map somewhere)..</div>
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Birding and sighting seeing but in no particular order. One large park in particular, Paseo Juaréz El Llano, at least according to eBird, looked like a good place to start.<br />
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Located north of our apartment by about 11 city blocks, it was best approached by taking the “Alcala”, a pedestrian walkway that starts north of the zocala. The alcala doesn’t allow any vehicular traffic so walking is easy, allowing more time for eye shopping. And there was no end to the eye-shopping as we walked further north through increasingly upscale shops, cafes and restaurants in the Barrio del Carmen Alto.</div>
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The alcala eventually skirts the west side of the large Jardin Etnobotánico de Oaxaca (Oaxaca Botanical Garden). The gardens are restricted access and the only way to get in is to take a tour. Tours in English are available on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday or $100 pesos/person A tour lasts two hours. It’s a good birding spot according to eBird but we are just as interested in the historical and botanical info as well. We stopped to see about tour times and costs but it was too early in the morning. We would return. We kept heading toward El Llano where we found a number of birds that added to our Oaxaca list.</div>
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It was easy to get distracted by all the street venders, specially the local artisans with jewelry, weavings and paintings. Visiting the churches was also a pleasurable experience looking at the architecture.<br />
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Before returning to the botanical garden we stopped for coffee and postel (pastry). However, when we got to the garden entrance, the line for tours was far too long. We’ll come back on a week day when, hopefully, it won’t be as crowded.</div>
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On our way back to the apartment we managed a quick stop at the Museo de Textil, a museum displaying textile artisans. Unfortunately a good deal of the exhibit was being changed out so we basically just got to see a small portion with exquisite embroideries. </div>
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Just down the street from our apartment was is a tacoria (a place to buy daily fresh made tacos) so we would have tacos to go along with our eggs, fresh cheese, tomatoes, and avocado. Then time for a bit of down time having walked over five miles!</div>
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Happy hour once again. Some of our neighbors brought snacks - a mango salsa was yummy with chips plus some mescal to sample. There really should be a Villa Maria Recipes book. Also our education about mezcal continued. Tequila and mezcal are made from agave plants. All tequilas are mezcal, but not all mezcal are tequila - it comes down to what kind of agave is used to make each.</div>
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Our evening meal again was light - basically leftovers of pasta but souped up with some of the produce. A little more audible book with tea and cookies, then off to bed. Tomorrow the Packers play the 49er’s. Wonder if there is a Packer bar in Oaxaca?</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/19/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Week 1 - Day 5</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Oaxaca City</span></div>
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Awoke to discover no hay agua caliente en la ducha - no hot water in the shower. Looks like the pilot light is out on the water heater attached to the wall outside our kitchen window. And since the caretakers are off on Sunday, we’ll have to wait until Monday when I can watch how the water heater pilot gets re-lit. Figured the pilot light goes off on windy days?</div>
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A pair of white-winged doves are building a nest (or what passes for a nest…just a few sticks thrown together) just outside our door in a grapefruit tree. Should be two eggs when laid. Incubation lasts about 13 to 14 days and is carried out by both parents. We'll keep watch.</div>
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Sorted a walking route to another mercado - Mercado de la Merced, about 20 minutes on foot. The draw to this market is that on Sunday, many outdoor venders show up hawking their produce. Honestly? The produce inside was better. Picked up a few things we needed for meals with the idea of cooking with far less meat. Outside people were eating meals that to our eyes, didn’t look very appetizing. Appeared to be seafood of some kind but couldn’t ID it. Did see calamari - neither of us like it.</div>
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On the walk to the mercado we ran into a Claire and Jim. On our return walk, Stewart. It really is a small town. At happy hour the evening before, Barb, Kathy and Sally were talking about Sally’s latest purchase, un vesitdo - a dress. But Sally has the figure for some of the slender clothes being sold. In any event, it was determined that Sally has the “eye” for style and any of the women (and why not men?) considering clothes shopping, should take Sally along to approve or disapprove.</div>
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A bite of lunch then we were out the door once more heading over to the super mercado. Replenish leche y jugo (milk and juice). The jugo - mango made with milk - is like a smoothy. Black beans, soy sauce, and virgin olive oil. We don’t have a toaster but we learned to buy toasted bread when we rented the cabina in Costa Rica and so we did here. Not bad at all. Specially with peanut butter. (Note: add it to the next shopping list).</div>
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Apparently it’s a Sunday thing to shoot off large bottle rockets. At least we hope it’s just a Sunday thing. Otherwise the neighborhood is very quiet as we are snugged into a courtyard pretty much walled off from traffic and street noises.</div>
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Owing to an overcast afternoon with slightly cooler temps requiring another layer, happy hour will not take place. Instead we headed out to La Rambra to try the fish tacos we knew they served for lunch/dinner.</div>
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We’d been cautioned that locals eat their big meal mid-to late afternoon and that the collectivos of cafes in Mercado Orgánico El Pochote would be crowded. Fortunately there was one open table open when we arrived. The owners of La Rambra immediately recognized us. Once an extra chair was added we placed our taco orders: one for Mahi Mahi and one for shrimp. While we waited, we asked our server/owner, Selma, how she and Ardnol had met. It was when they were working at the upscale Restaurante Catedral. Selma was the pastry chef and Ardnol was the master chef. The restaurant was one of the top ten rated for moles in the city central.</div>
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Ardnol brought over a complementary taco of smoked marlin which was excellent. Our dishes of tacos arrived - three to a dish. Have to say the shrimp tacos were better than the Mahi Mahi. But not by much. We’ll also have to check out Restaurante Catedral but maybe when Marge is here. It’s a $$$$ rated establishment.</div>
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Back at the apartment it was about time for the Packer vs 49er’s game to start. We were unable to watch the game but given the outcome, that was just as well. In the morning we’d have to alert Manuel that our water heater pilot light needed to be re-lit.</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/20/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Week 1 - Day 6</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Oaxaca City</span></div>
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Still glum over the previous night’s NFL Packer debacle, we waited to take our showers owing to not having any hot water. The electric ignitor on the gas water heater wasn’t functional and would require asking Manuel for assistance.</div>
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We managed breakfast and some e-mail correspondence before Manuel arrived for work at just after 8am. Explaining in Spanish and pointing, Manuel knew exactly what to do. But after he too discovered the ignitor wasn’t working. He left to bring tools to remove the front cover over the pilot light. The cover is held in place by four small hex head screws. Amazingly, Manuel didn’t have a hex head wrench and instead used needle-nosed pliers to eventually remove the screws. I made a note to visit a hardware store and buy him a proper wrench!</div>
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With the pilot light now re-lit, we waited a half hour or so for the water to heat sufficiently to shower. Our plan for the morning was visiting the Oaxaca Lending Library and the 11am free orientation to Oaxaca.</div>
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The library isn’t the city’s main library. This is far smaller and run by volunteers mainly serving as a resource for gringos. That said, local Mexicans also use the library as a meeting place to practice their English with visiting gringos.</div>
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The walk to the library took about 20 minutes. Arriving, we checked in at the counter for info about the library itself. Many books in both Spanish and English but one has to join the library in order to check out materials. The fees fo membership vary from monthly to annual. We learned that there are approximately 5,000 ex-pats living in Oaxaca and surrounding pueblos (towns) and that the library is a real hot spot for socializing.</div>
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The orientation began promptly at 11 with a dozen and a half attendees, mainly people like ourselves visiting for the first time. The speaker - an expat from the U.S. - spent a half hour covering all the resources the library offers, then he opened it up for questions. Medical services, money, tipping, public transportation, traffic rules…several topics were covered. All very helpful for our purposes.</div>
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The library offers daily programs from a whole host of speakers. This day in particular the program was about the local bird group. It began at 5 but was already booked solid. But we did learn that a group of local birders (seasonal gringos) informally meets every Sunday morning in the Juárez Llano park we’d visited earlier in the week. All levels of birders are welcome and birding destinations are pretty much in the immediate area.</div>
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Following the meeting we found our way over to “Cocina Economica Isabel”, a small cafe tucked away in a narrow alley which has a five star rating. It was one of the places Costa Rican friends Gloria and Paul Yeatman had recommended (as had a few of our neighbors).</div>
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The interior was lined with red bricks with an abundance of tropical plants. Service was quick and friendly. Our choice included soup, fried rice, crema de chayote and main course of chile relleno. Flan for desert with coffee and soda the bill came to $215 pesos. About $11 U.S. total.</div>
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Afterward we wandered back to our apartment to relax a bit, do a little reading, and before we knew it, it was happy hour. Happy hour discussion included the possibility of a group blind tasting of mescal. A very enthusiastic response ensued. Each couple brings a bottle to contribute to the event. And perhaps some snacks.</div>
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With a large lunch we settled on tea and a few slices of toasted bread with peanut butter and jelly. We prefer eating a larger meal earlier in the day, then something light in the evening. Far better for the digestive system and for losing weight which we seem to be doing albeit with no scale to judge precisely. But clothing started to feel less snug.</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.5px;"><i>1/21/2020</i></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Week 1 - Day 7</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.8px;">Oaxaca City</span></div>
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Our daily walkabout has become a regular routine we want to keep up. It gets us up and moving plus allows us a leisurely pace to discover more and more of Oaxaca’s offerings.</div>
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First up was checking out a shuttle service offered by the Hotel Rivera de Angel, about a 15 minute walk straight up Calle de Arteaga, our street....which turned into Calle Fransisco Javier Mina. See what we mean about streets changing names?</div>
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For the mere price of $60 pesos (about $1.30 U.S.) each, the shuttle, running every 30 minutes starting at 8:30am, takes us to Monte Albán, a large pre-Coloumbian archeological site in the Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán Municipality. We hope to take advantage early on Thursday morning.</div>
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Next was to track down a few restaurants suggested by our friends Paul and Gloria Yeatman who spend half the year in Costa Rica and the other half in Oaxaca. We found all three ending up at a bakery/cafe, Boulenc.</div>
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Breakfast at Boulenc (all organic). Carol had Shakshuka: poached eggs in a spicy tomato sauce, onion, chipotle harissa and roasted serrano chili. It came with bread and lebanese cheese to which she added a fresh squeezed juice.</div>
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Me? I opted for Molletes: sourdough bread (ciabatta) spread with a layer of black beans and melted Mennonite cheese. A side of toppings consisting of pico de gallo, sour cream, and grilled salsa. Americano café to drink.</div>
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On our way out of the cafe we stopped in the bakery section to buy a loaf of ciabatta, still warm from the oven.</div>
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Poking around as we are wont to do, we found the Biblioteca Andrés Henestrosa (free entrance). Entering the broad courtyard with a cool retracting roof we found several reading rooms off to the left and right containing over 60,000 volumes, mainly focussed on the humanities in Mexico.</div>
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Upstairs is actually a separate institution, La Casa de la Ciudad, dedicated to projects around urbanism and architecture. Both upstairs and downstairs are known to have temporary art exhibitions. The predominant exhibition at the moment was a display centered around “Lucha Libre”, a Mexican form of free-style wrestling, a genre characterized by colorful masks, rapid sequences of holds and maneuvers, as well as acrobatic “high-flying” maneuvers.</div>
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Oaxaca is known for its world class libraries which would make for a wonderful field trip for my former colleagues in the Seeley G. Mudd at Lawrence University.</div>
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Looking for something to do in Oaxaca? Just check out a flurry of posters pasted up in any number of locations. No excuse for being bored.</div>
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One of the MANY museos we wanted to visit included the Museo los Pintores Oaxacqueños. It hosts shows for emerging local artists. The building dates from 1695 and in 2004-5 under went a major renovation/restoration. The site also hosts concerts, lectures, workshops and more.</div>
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Entering the Colonial styled building we were struck by the large courtyard, above which was suspended a large cross with hundreds of small translucent human skulls (plastic or glass?).</div>
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Exhibitions connect the past to the present, subtly linking Miguel Cabrera’s 18th-century religious paintings, which incorporate dark skinned cherubs, to 20th-century portrayals of indigenous people in the works of Rodolfo Morales.</div>
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Other artists on display included Francisco Toledo, Gilberto Juárez, Rogelio Madero de Peña, Rubén Maya, Alfonso Albán, Rosendo Pinacho, to name a few.</div>
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On our way back to the apartment we picked up some bananas, a half of chicken and checked out another restaurant we’d heard of, Restaurante Catedral (where the owners of La Rambla had previously been employed). It was closed but the sign out front indicated that it is always closed on Tuesdays.</div>
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Another happy hour on the roof. Carol brought salsa she’d made which was well received. The weather pattern seems to be that there is little wind in the morning but as the afternoon progresses, the winds increase in tempo. At our elevation (around 5,000 feet), it gets cool in the afternoon and the winds simply accentuate the cooler air. Time to get a few more layers, however, we didn’t bring enough. Time to go shopping in the morning for some long-sleeved fleece.</div>
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Stir fry broccoli with walnuts and chicken. Meals are a bit of a challenge but Carol is getting the hang of it. Some tea, a few cookies, then off to bed.</div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-54323909206921223482020-07-10T14:35:00.001-07:002020-07-10T14:35:20.972-07:002019 Part 4 July thru December<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back in Sierra Vista we could finally devote a lot more time to our docent training at Ramsey Canyon TNC. Studying notes, a newly rewritten history of the canyon and following a few of the regular docents on their walks helped us put our own personal touches on our own interpretative presentation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Closer to home Tom redesigned the ancient water feature left by the previous owners after the fiberglass "waterfall" began disintegrating. A hole was dug to accommodate a large plastic tub to serve as an underground reservoir. Atop the opening, a couple layers of heavy wire mesh and lighter screen were placed to support the water tray and the ceramic pot from where water flowed out of the top, into the tray, then returning into the reservoir. At least the same water pump was recycled from the old water feature. The result was an instant hit with the birds which, having the pan at ground level, made for easier access.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">old carpet removed and new installed</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had talked about replacing the old worn and now disgustingly dirty outdoor carpeting on the back patio. There were options to consider such as simply removing the carpet and painting the concrete surface, removing and then tiling the surface, or, simply replacing the carpeting. All three options had one thing in common: the old carpet had to go. But due to the uneven surface and copious amounts of old glue after the carpet was pulled, the labor to smooth and resurface for painting was prohibitive.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While tiling was our preferred choice, again, resurfacing the cement required a labor intensive cost beyond our budget. In the end we opted for carpeting. Tom removed the old carpet and slowly worked on scraping off layers of old glue. Then it was just a matter of time to pick out carpet color and nap and set a date to have it installed.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">birding Parker Canyon Lake SP</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our small birding group continued weekly outings as we bulked up our annual bird list. Trips to the canyons on Fort Huachuca, the Catalinas outside Tucson, the Portal area, and surrounding grasslands simply reenforced our decision to choose Sierra Vista as a place to settle regardless of it being a bit too politically conservative (there are some bright spots thank goodness).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Glenn and Diane</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Friends Glenn and Diane Chambliss were once more staying in the area at a seasonal rental home. We got together a few times for meals and birding. It turned out that their rental plans for 2020 were not going to allow them to arrive as early as they had hoped. Knowing of our plan for an extended stay in Mexico, we discussed the possibility of them renting our townhouse while we were away. Eventually we settled upon a rental price for January and part of February of 2020. We were happy to have the house looked after in our absence and delighted we could help out such thoughtful and caring friends who we knew would look after our home as if it were their own.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">with Ron and Renell at Camp Rucker</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The latter part of August found us on another day-long adventure with friends Ron and Renell Stewart. This time we headed for a place on our bucket list - Rucker Canyon (formerly White River Canyon) and the ruins of old Camp Rucker. Again, for those who believe that Arizona is a vast desert are missing the big picture. There are many different facets to the life zones found throughout the state. One doesn’t have to travel very far in any direction from Sierra vista to experience dramatic changes in habitat and scenery.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Originally named Camp Supply, the camp was established in 1878 to provide supplies and assist patrols pursuing “renegade” Apache Indians. The name was changed to Camp Rucker later that same year when during a flash flood, Lt. John Rucker drowned attempting to rescue fellow officer Lt. Austin Henely who also drowned. In a tribute to Lt. Rucker both the canyon and the camp were named in his honor (no doubt, Rucker’s father, Gen. Rucker played a role in the renaming). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our visit to the camp gave us pause to imagine the Chiricahua Apache still clinging to the distant mountains trying to hang on to a threatened lifestyle and the hardships of life in the frontier west. Camp Rucker was formally abandoned in November 1880 but continued to serve as a camp for various troops of the 4th Cavalry during the Geronimo campaign of 1886. Eventually the property became known as Old Camp Rucker Ranch, when it changed hands with a number of people until 1970 when the property was turned over to the USFS which now maintains the historic site.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We visited a few more sites we’d not been to before or had not thoroughly explored like Patagonia-Sonoita Creek TNC Preserve where we almost had a seasonal volunteer job when we were still full-time RVing.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">our first tour group</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">September found us officially leading our first docent walk at Ramsey Canyon. One of the more experienced docents, Tom Clancy (a Wisconsin native) was kind enough to pass on his materials (photos, charts, and notes) used on his walks. We lead a small contingency of people up the main trail regaling them with facts and stories of early canyon life. All of it true, of course, or, as Tom Clancy said, “If you can’t think of something just make it up” (he was joking but clearly we shared the same sense of humor).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">college students group with their instructor</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the end of the walk the group couldn’t believe this was our first guided tour - we must have sounded knowledgeable enough. From that point on we were on the docent tour schedule - tours are run March through November, every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday. We usually did one a week. And we did them in tandem as we had when we volunteered at Boyce Thompson. </span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Occasionally docents are asked to guide a tour not on the regular schedule. One such tour was a group of college students from the local Cochise College. A great group of young people - so important to impart knowledge at an early age.</span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Carol and Wyatt</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We also meet interesting folks like Wyatt Earp. Yes, Wyatt Earp. A relative of THE Wyatt Earp, his parents named him after his great uncle. Wyatt portrays Wyatt and other notable western characters at Tombstone, AZ as well as traveling to parts of the country taking part in historical reenactments.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Carol signed up for a day-long sketching class held at Ramsey lead by a local art instructor. She met several people (some were already volunteers at Ramsey) and spent the day discovering some new drawing skills she thought she never had.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By late October and early November, fall colors began to appear in Ramsey. Unlike colors in Wisconsin which peak quickly and don't last long, foliage in the canyon turns gradually and because it's protected somewhat from the elements, lasts much longer - up to several weeks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was also a time when Pete, the RCTNC property manager, put together a schedule to shuttle volunteers over to tour the Patagonia-Soniota Creek TNC property, the Canelo Hills Cienaga Reserve. This TNC property is closed to the general public but is available to visit by reservation. Or as in our case, since we volunteer for TNC, we can access the property by just letting Pete know in advance.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The preserve is a 260 acre parcel of wetland, grassland, and dotted with black oak was acquired by the Nature Conservancy in 1969, in parts to protect the rare Canelo ladies tresses orchids. Canelo was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1974.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tom on his bicycle - finally, again. It had been a few years but a local charity ride to raise funds supporting mental illness awareness caught his attention. 30 miles later he finished his first longer ride in quite some time. Glad he had not opted to do the 50-mile route.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back at Casa de Sykes more attention was given to a few new plantings and rearranging/construction of planters. The carpeting we had ordered was finally installed which brightened up the back considerably.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">always a long line - get there early</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having missed it for a few years, we made it to Tucson for the annual Sabaku Artware sale. Just in time as Tom’s wearable T-shirt supply had grown thin. T-shirts normally selling for $28 or more were on sale for ten dollars each.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A rug weaving demonstration of indigenous Zapotec weaving at Cochise College by Alex Martinez, a master weaver, caught our attention. Knowing we would be in Oaxaca in 2020 and wanting to buy a wall hanging, this turned out to be a great opportunity. In the end we we purchased a wall hanging and purse (woven by Alex's sister). They also invited us to visit their studio when we were in Oaxaca and mentioned that A</span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">lex's </span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">uncle, also Master Weaver, has a shop in Oaxaca City and that we should look him up as well.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">trading low elevation desert for high elevation snow</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">December and what to do about Christmas? We traded desert sun for mountain snow when we made a long weekend trip up to Dillon for an early Xmas with Chris and his family and to drop off early birthday gifts for the kids. Naturally it was winter and living at over 9,000 feet, snow was inevitable. And the cold.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We kept us close to home but did manage a few trips out into the wild. Some photos at nearby Dillon Dam, a night out attending a local theater group sharing songs and personal stories about the holidays, a few meals out and a drive up into the mountains. We certainly had our winter fix.Oh, and we even managed a little birding.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Larry is not only into beer but rocks, too.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">December was also busy month with visitors. Larry Darling and his traveling companion Harvey the cat made good on his threat to visit while he was touring in his RV. We managed to take Larry to a few of our favorite places but of course there was always time for a beer.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Don and Anne</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Don and Anne Aitchison, another Canadian couple who we first met RVing, stopped by and, naturally, we had to meet them for dinner and drinks. And host a walk at Ramsey.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As December was winding down, John and Jane Creech paid a return visit hoping to miss snow and cold - and for the second time in a row, they didn’t. But at least they were better dressed for it. They really do have to make a return visit when it's a bit less snowy. But of course they are always welcome.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The year was quietly put to rest on new Year’s Eve as we looked forward to our Oaxaca adventure, not realizing of course, what 2020 would bring in the form on a pandemic.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-13653146697452272412020-07-08T11:58:00.000-07:002020-07-10T08:17:14.292-07:002019: Part 3 June thru July<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Exiting Wisconsin on June 25th, our first overnight was In Waukee, Iowa at the home of friends Pat and Sue Genereaux. We first met Pat and Sue while we were parked at Betty’s RV in Abbeville, Louisiana in 2010. We have since run into each on several occasions, most notably when they introduced us to the International Music festival in Lafayette, Louisiana.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pat and Sue and Gizmo - and an amazing Iowa sunset</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After a bountiful breakfast dining out with Pat and Sue at a local eatery, we hit the road headed to our next overnight destination, Lincoln, Nebraska to catch up with friends Paula and Dave Hansen. As with Pat and Sue, we also first met Pinkie and Dave while we were parked at an RV park. This was at Sunny Acres RV Park in las Cruces, New Mexico. Since that first meeting, Pinkie and Dave now have a home in Las Cruces where we’ve been guests, but they also have a home in Lincoln they’ve been renovating.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The drive from Waukee to Lincoln was pretty short so we had time to explore. We’ve driven through Omaha on our way to and from Wisconsin several times in the past with our RV but now, not concerned about traffic or parking, we headed over to the local botanical garden, Lauritzen Gardens.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gardens were will with flowers and eclectic sculptures</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In 1982, Helena Street, former <i>Omaha World-Herald</i> Garden Parade columnist, hosted a meeting of five individuals to start planning a botanical garden. A site of natural woods and rolling terraces on a bluff just west of the Missouri River was selected as the garden's location. Construction began in 1995 on the rose garden and other early gardens soon followed, including a shade hosta garden, herb garden, children's garden and spring flowering walk. Since opening, new garden areas have been added each year, covering its present day 100-acres. Construction of a 32,000-square-foot visitor and education center began in 2000, opening in 2001.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Big Boy No. 4023 and Centennial No. 6900</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; color: #313f1b;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Nearby was Kenefick Park, highly visible from I-80. In addition to a few short trails it has two of </span></span><span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 63, 27);">the largest locomotives ever to power the Union Pacific Railroad - one steam and one diesel. </span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; color: #313f1b;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By late afternoon we arrived at Pinkie and Dave’s where we enjoyed much conversation and a scrumptious meal. They had just added another family member, a </span></span><span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 63, 27);">cocker doodle, Mia, to join Libby (Mia is now bigger than Libby). Hard to get Mia to settle for a photo until conked out for a rest.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Libby and Mia, Pinkie and Dave</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our third and rather uneventful overnight was in a hotel in Sidney, Nebraska. But it put us within easy striking distance of Denver, CO where we caught up with Chris, Robyn, Carter and Cali who were attending a baseball tournament (Chris was coaching Carter’s team). On our way to Denver we cruised up several roads at one of our <span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 63, 27);">favorite birding spots we'd not been too in years - </span>Pawnee National Grasslands in eastern Colorado.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Carter, Robyn, Chris, Cali</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From <span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 63, 27);">Denver</span> we all headed back to Dillion where we spent a long weekend hiking, sightseeing, and getting caught up with the grandkids. Up into the mountains for water and <span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 63, 27);">wildflowers.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On one of our hikes Cali wanted to do a photo shoot so we obliged. We're always <span style="caret-color: rgb(49, 63, 27);">amazed</span> at how much the kids have grown when we don't see them all the time.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Another of our friends we originally met while full-time RVing when we first state din South Texas was Robin Kinney. Robin happened to be driving back to the St. Louis area and was passing through Colorado. We compared schedules and sure enough, there was a time when our coordinates overlapped - enough for breakfast in Dillon.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our last overnight was in las Cruces, guests once again of friends Frank and Paul. This is on one of our earlier visits when Pinkie and Dave were on hand in las Cruces.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Frank, Carol, Dave, Pinkie, Paul</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #313f1b; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then on to Sierra Vista the next morning to get caught up on so many things we had neglected while we were away. Fortunately we have a couple of good neighbors that kept our plants going!</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-91807905522986898702020-04-21T12:05:00.001-07:002020-04-21T15:25:40.241-07:002019: Part 2 April thru June<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Late April, all of May and most of June encompassed our annual return to Wisconsin, visiting family, friends and experience spring migration. This is our second return to Wisconsin in our Honda sans an RV making us far more nimble and fuel efficient.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">finding the whiskered screech-owl</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">dirty martini at Frank and Paul's - all we had to do</span><br />
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Departing on April 26 we made a stop at Cave Creek Canyon in the Chiricahua Mountains to find a Whiskered Screech-Owl roost. After helpful directions from visitor center staff (and where Carol purchased a nifty Cave Creek T-shirt) we indeed found the owl. As we were not pressed for time we also paid a visit to Rusty at Rusty’s RV where we’ve parked in our RV over the years. Then on to Las Cruces to spend a night at Frank and Paul’s home. Wonderful dinner and conversations - as always!<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">on the road - still catch ourselves looking in the<br />rearview mirror at times expecting to see our old RV</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">on the road, always a good chance to sample</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Early the next morning we set out sight on Taos New Mexico. We’d never visited Taos during our RV days and a visit has been on our bucket list for years. Alas, we were easily sidetracked by the lure of birding at Bosque Del Apache NWR which put us into Taos far later than we had planned. Just as well as the weather wasn’t great and truth be told, most of what we saw of Taos didn’t impress us very much. We’ve since been told we should make a return visit to appreciate some of the local flavors. We don’t know - a bit too touristy for our taste.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">reunited with Betty</span></td></tr>
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Our next overnight made for a long driving day - Topeka, KS. Thank goodness for audible books. But it did put us within striking distance of Menasha, WI where we would be staying with Betty Dunsmore for most of our time in Wisconsin (arrived April 29).<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">There were many wonderful Friday night fish-fries, lots of Old Fashions with our dear friend, Betty. We picked up where we had left off the previous year, exploring area supper clubs. Some new and some familiar. By far the best food and prices were at Club Tavern in Menasha. </span></div>
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The weather in Wisconsin in April and May can fluctuate wildly, ranging from cold wet days to overly warm and sunny ones. Unfortunately, late April and the first half of May was the former.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">Over the next few months our social calendar was stuffed full. Dates to visit family, friends, go birding, work on yard projects at Betty’s - every day there was something going on, often multiple events on most days.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">L-R standing: Tom, Dale Schaber, Carol, Marti Hemwall;<br />L-R sitting: Penny Bernard-Schaber, Tom and Medith Phillips, John Peterson</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">On one of the first early nice May days, we met with the former "Penny's kitchen cabinet" crowd, people who were part of Penny's successful bid for state representative in the Wisconsin legislature. Whistler's Knoll Vineyard was the venue, noted for its Sunday bloody Marys.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">Larry Darling, soon to be officially retired from his role as Lawrence University's Conservatory recording engineer, had been so enamored with our RV lifestyle that he purchased his own RV, a very well kept used Class C. Outfitted to tow an enclosed trailer (for his BMW motorcycle) he and his cat Harvey were to soon embark on their first long journey. We met Larry and another Lawrence colleague, Alvina for lunch. Late in 2019, Larry and Harvey would catch up with us in Sierra Vista.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">Even though the weather was iffy, it didn't stop us from visiting nearby Heckrodt Nature preserve, walking </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">the boardwalk trails in search of spring birds and flowers. A Barred Owl nest near one of the boardwalks warranted regular checks on two young owls that were known to be inside the nest cavity. Also, a family of red fox had taken up residence.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">There were a number of projects at Betty's although this year, Tom was better prepared bringing a toolbox full of useful tools. Unfortunately, it didn't include a chainsaw for removing an old large sumac (borrowed a chainsaw from one of Betty's sons). The word "mulch" got used a lot as well as quite a bit was spread around the pond area and front yard planting project which required hand removal of a of sod and new soil. Also a lot of shrub pruning of, flower planting, weeding, grass planting, removing old deck benches, and cleaning out and rearranging the garage, just to to name a few to-do's.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">Carol's umpteenth birthday in May plus celebrating our 24th wedding anniversary with Betty.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bay Beach with a flock of birders</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Calumet County Park with members of our bird club</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">with Peter Fissel at Baxter's Hollow</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cold May weather had the impact of holding back bird migration. But by mid May, migration hit with a vengeance. We probably had one of the best warbler fall-outs ever at Bay Beach over a period of a few days where we didn’t even leave the parking lot for over an hour. Warblers were dripping form the trees including many scarce or normally hard to find warblers. Other bird outings included trips to High Cliff State Park, Calumet County Park, Door County, Horicon Marsh, Baxter's Hollow, Spring Green, Badger, and Wyalusing State Park. Make hay while the sun shines!</span><br />
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May rolled forward, gathering more and more dates with friends and family. A Friday night outing at Club Tavern with high school classmate and long-time partner in crime, Lucia Stevenson.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">no - they were not all mine! It's just how<br />they are served.</span></td></tr>
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A trip to Plover to visit Tom's sister Betsy and her husband Bill. A few days later we gathered in Door County where Graham, Caitlin and Brennan were at a rental cabin. On the way up we met Jennie, Bob, Alrick and Ava for lunch followed by a brief walk at the Ridges Sanctuary.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graham, Caitlin, Carol, Brennan, Rollie, Carol, Tom<br />
Bill, Ava, Jennie, Betsy, Alrick, Bob</td></tr>
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It's not often that the whole family gets together. Thanks to Caitlin's mom, Terrie, for renting the cabin so we could all gather for a few hours.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-kerning: none;">A few days later we visited Marge's on Lake Wisconsin for some area birding, and of course, going out to eat!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">hiking at the Spring Green preserve</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We wrapped up May with more get togethers. Lunch and coffee breaks with former Lawrence Colleagues David Berk, Cindy Patterson, and Harold Ginke. Larry Darling's retirement party at the Taphouse in Appleton and more super club outings with Betty.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The first day in June we attended the Northeast Wisconsin Bird Club meeting at Mosquito Hill, dinner at Stone Arch Brewery and a party at Greg Madsen's with our former Monday Martini Night crowd.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Greg and Carol</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tom, Carol, Dick and Jenny Orr</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">June was Alrick's birthday. First opening presents at home then a one-on-one opportunity to chat with Alrick at a local Green Bay supper club for a birthday dinner.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Marti and John finally made the decision to downsize and were in the process of selling their house and moving into a condo. What better time than to visit and see their new condo digs?</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Marti and John celebrating with Old Fashions</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Father's Day. The weather had soured again so what to do? Marge was visiting us at Betty's. Carol suggested making a trip to Lambeau Field where fathers were being admitted free to the Packer Hall of Fame. To say that Marge is a Packer fan is an understatement. Arriving at Lambeau and discovering there were stadium tours, Marge sprung for a tour. It was our first ever visit to the hall of fame plus the tour gave us some behind the scenes looks at the field. Then a trip to nearby Hinterland Brewery where Marge was introduced to a microbes she found to her liking.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A late Father's Day celebration found us back at Jennie and Bob's for another food bonanza. Some years back Tom had built an Adirondack chair which was given to Jennie when we went full-time RVing. The chair had weathered to the point where it needed repairs which Tom had made. The chair, now at Jennie and Bob's, was an inspiration of Alrick's to be used as a photo prop.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After it was first repaired in 2015, then with Pa and Alrick<br />at Jennie and Bob's in 2019</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A trip to Madison to attend a pizza party held at Mel and Steve Hiniker's house. Steve had built a pizza oven which got a lot of use that evening. Then on to spend the night at Sharon and Warren Gaskill's farm near Black Earth.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">pizza captain Steve</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sharon, Mel, Pam, Steve, Warren, Spencer, Tom</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sharon and Warren Gaskill</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">June was starting to wind down. Unfortunately, the Appleton Farmers Market, just days from starting up again, left us with only one opportunity to attend. But there were more get togethers. Nick and Paul invited us over for drinks and dinner (incredible salmon!). Nick was on the mend following surgery. Then a lunch get together with another high school classmate, Dave Stringham and his wife Elizabeth.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">with Elizabeth and Dave Stringham</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There are more moments and experiences from our 2019 Wisconsin visit that didn't make this entry (like Carol's laptop crashing). And unfortunately, there wasn't enough time to do everything and see everyone often enough. But still managed to see almost everyone and goodness, our waistlines was evidence of our multiple dining out opportunities. By the end of June, we reluctantly pulled up stakes and on June 25 we began heading back to Arizona - but with a different route than we had taken to get to Wisconsin.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-63206075939499987962020-04-17T10:34:00.001-07:002020-04-17T13:31:13.231-07:002019: Part 1 January thru April<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Our RVing days now behind us, the motivation to post blog updates, aside from our birding tours, has become less imperative. Still, there were a number of events in 2019 besides our Costa Rica entires worthy of mention.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Winter in Arizona, or what passes for winter, is nothing at all like winter in Wisconsin. However, given our elevation in Sierra Vista, we can still get a dusting of snow. It just doesn’t warrant owning a snow shovel.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pinkie and Dave visit</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had visitors from Wisconsin and elsewhere trying to escape winter, although not entirely successful. Pinkie and Dave Hanson, on their way through the area in their RV stopped by to say hello which naturally included a visit to Bisbee. They have a home in Las Cruces and Lincoln, NE, where we have been guests during our travels.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYEvUn1MJCDLG0xMBLAX3qs7nnUD1x1xOfkO6p_DVSQr2nnOD9mBIBwT0DrUsPsi8pKd17Iu0LVMHHEzCPMcDBARshFWUCXNax39vLSL40WaV6zuAD0WRAgcnQ6X66ey2fSfWF6ZDjxhk/s1600/RollieandChris.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="807" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYEvUn1MJCDLG0xMBLAX3qs7nnUD1x1xOfkO6p_DVSQr2nnOD9mBIBwT0DrUsPsi8pKd17Iu0LVMHHEzCPMcDBARshFWUCXNax39vLSL40WaV6zuAD0WRAgcnQ6X66ey2fSfWF6ZDjxhk/s320/RollieandChris.JPG" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rollie and Chris at San Pedro chance meeting</span></td></tr>
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A totally out of the blue meeting with another couple, Chris and Rowland “Rollie” Willis. We first met them in Port Orford, Oregon while we stayed at Port Orford RV Village in 2010 where Chris and Rollie were escaping warmer weather in Southern California. They have since relocated to Port Orford. We bumped into them while we were walking at San Pedro Riparian Area.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivGu9LAIjp0H3mSCzVHs3562Rut1TEytn63M3J_WYJF6Yeu_AbFeciwHqQpETEVc7Z59m1kLb8L_Imt2dY6u8Q_jLwYRRcn1M0QFCPuF2uZQF_OjPkxqc8UE3DoRlWZB64sV6p2beGErsm/s1600/IMG_9304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="898" data-original-width="900" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivGu9LAIjp0H3mSCzVHs3562Rut1TEytn63M3J_WYJF6Yeu_AbFeciwHqQpETEVc7Z59m1kLb8L_Imt2dY6u8Q_jLwYRRcn1M0QFCPuF2uZQF_OjPkxqc8UE3DoRlWZB64sV6p2beGErsm/s320/IMG_9304.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ron, Carol and Renell at Council Rocks</span></td></tr>
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At the urging (it doesn’t take much) of good friends Ron and Renell Stewart, we explored the west side of Cochise Stronghold, part of Coronado National Forest in the Dragoon Mountains. This rugged fortress of granite domes and sheer cliffs was for some 15 years the home and base of operations Chiricahua Apache Chief Cochise and his followers.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In 1850, the United States took control over the territory that comprises Arizona and New Mexico. Initially not hostile to the Anglo-Americans there was peace until in 1861 when a young U.S. Army Lt. George Bascom, based at Fort Huachuca, made a serious blunder.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cochise and several of his followers met with Bascom to deny accusations that they had abducted a child form a ranch. During the meeting, Bascom ordered Cochise and his followers be held hostage. Cochise managed to escape which enraged Bascom, who then, operating on his own accord, ordered the remaining hostages, including Cochise’s brother, hanged. It wasn’t until later that it was proved the boy had been abducted by another band of Apaches. But the damage was done.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cochise was so embittered that he joined forces with his father-in-law, Magas Colorades, and engaged in a period of social upheaval, waging guerrilla warfare against the American Army and settlers. In 1863 after Mangas was captured and murdered, did Cochise assume the mantle of Apache war chief.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Army captured Cochise in 1871 and was preparing to transfer Cochise to another reservation hundreds of miles away when Cochise escaped again, renewing his campaign of resistance. A year later, with the help of United States Army scout and Indian Agent, Thomas Jeffords, who had won Cochise’s trust, was a new treaty established allowing Cochise and his band to remain on their homeland.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cochise, a master strategist who was never defeated in battle, died peacefully on the newly formed Chiricahua reservation in 1874. He was secretly buried somewhere in or near his impregnable fortress, the exact location still unknown today. Cochise Stronghold was named in his honor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We’ve visited the much easier access to the east side of the stronghold where a campground and hiking trails are located. Getting to the west side was more circuitous and more confusing although Ron had a good idea of where to travel. The highlight was an arduous climb up to Council Rocks, a natural amphitheater where Cochise and his followers could meet without being troubled by military troops. It was near this spot that Cochise made peace in 1872.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Of note are several pictographs reminiscent of prehistoric Mongollon peoples with some more recent art added by the Apache along with several grinding mortars, circular depressions in rock outcroppings created and used for grinding grains, acorns and other food products.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCWLG_UqDqjPjS-6kFvePAvfvoOmzsFOfUDIoXgiXzjR_H-M1pvjwhs_ezTb4XaeqoGopfGRAB95gWoRVxzEfjukK82TcINQTR0ip2YLSqQbw5wKgL0iUi5JZDeVVo5fXZAJ_hA148mSSK/s1600/57232123_2604246896270708_8328762020186816512_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="753" data-original-width="960" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCWLG_UqDqjPjS-6kFvePAvfvoOmzsFOfUDIoXgiXzjR_H-M1pvjwhs_ezTb4XaeqoGopfGRAB95gWoRVxzEfjukK82TcINQTR0ip2YLSqQbw5wKgL0iUi5JZDeVVo5fXZAJ_hA148mSSK/s320/57232123_2604246896270708_8328762020186816512_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pam and Spencer at the BBC</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40wPTe9E9khDn7VHSjYAY-9wZqrnBdlsYoj732kdPvpcfc4PZc8jIyj5Zu0mVkewiZAbiqtU4WKYZf0-eSMGo5fjcQkA9385a1OrJXcjSpWtq8kbTRlAUTDpfAfLBk65AE9-95eJYD37b/s1600/IMG_1054.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40wPTe9E9khDn7VHSjYAY-9wZqrnBdlsYoj732kdPvpcfc4PZc8jIyj5Zu0mVkewiZAbiqtU4WKYZf0-eSMGo5fjcQkA9385a1OrJXcjSpWtq8kbTRlAUTDpfAfLBk65AE9-95eJYD37b/s320/IMG_1054.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dining out at the Bright Spot with Spence, Pam, Diane and Glenn</td></tr>
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Spencer Black and Pam Fornell from the Madison, WI area, had been exploring several western parks and managed to stop by for three nights. We took them into Ramsey for a hike and then they were on their own exploring more local canyon trails. Naturally, at the Bisbee Breakfast Club, too.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ric and Betty </span></td></tr>
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Ric and Betty Zarwell from Lansing, Iowa, were visiting family in Mesa and drove down to spend a few evenings as overnight guests. Again, another visit to our go to place, Ramsey Canyon.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Susan and Rex</span></td></tr>
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Another chance meeting with friends we’ve not seen for a long time, this time on a Sunday morning while we were volunteering at Ramsey. Susan Richards, Tom’s former boss at Lawrence University’s Seeley G. Midd Library, and her husband Rex Meyer had stopped by to see the trails at Ramsey. Now retired, they’re settled in Soccorro New Mexico. Naturally, a visit to Culver’s for an evening meal.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Glenn and Diane at Coronado Memorial and then hiking Hunter Canyon trail</span></td></tr>
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Glenn and Diane Chambliss from Wisconsin, who annually secure a long term rental in the Sierra Vista area, we back in our locale. We managed several outings together - hikes and meals - and at one point were joined by Spencer and Pam for dinner out. Always happy to see our Wisconsin connections.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Marti and John</span></td></tr>
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Marti Hemwall, a former colleague of Tom’s at Lawrence, and her husband John Peterson have been making visits to Tucson from Wisconsin a more regular occurrence. They stopped by to see our new digs and of course with so many of of visitors, breakfast out at the Bisbee Breakfast and drinks in Tombstone.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Carol and Larry Dole</span></td></tr>
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Intrepid travelers the Doles, Carol and Larry from New Hampshire, make it a point to escape in an RV. We first met the Doles while we were in South Texas volunteering at Bentsen-Rio Grande SP and since then on a number of our bird tours. They stopped by to say hello and share some local birding, at Ramsey Canyon, of course!<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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There were feathered backyard visitors as well.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">curve-billed thrasher</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9_WmvZk92sMx0ODHYvKWz1VCYfolTUs4gUndSDeD9aqdeLWlZsdtMXRazieJZ5nYW_RtOhVqXGgiqxSnJ2R7nv8YBaa8qigvxN_GmA3PoDkuw7DfOplOcfl3RjCMchWfIFTLRf4J_l8S/s1600/Cardinalfe_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1006" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9_WmvZk92sMx0ODHYvKWz1VCYfolTUs4gUndSDeD9aqdeLWlZsdtMXRazieJZ5nYW_RtOhVqXGgiqxSnJ2R7nv8YBaa8qigvxN_GmA3PoDkuw7DfOplOcfl3RjCMchWfIFTLRf4J_l8S/s320/Cardinalfe_1.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">northern cardinal</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">sharp-shinned hawk</span></td></tr>
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March rolled around and found us again in Costa Rica for two back-to-back birding tours, retold in these two earlier blog links:</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="http://tomandcarolsykes.blogspot.com/2020/03/costa-rica-2019-tour-1.html" target="_blank">Costa Rica March 2019 Tour 1</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="http://tomandcarolsykes.blogspot.com/2020/04/costa-rica-2019-tour-2.html" target="_blank">Costa Rica March 2019 Tour 2</a></span></div>
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After returning from Costa Rica we once more shared a local outing with Glenn and Diane, this time hiking Joe Canyon Trail in Coronado National Memorial. One can do the entire loop (6.2 miles) by climbing up from the visitor center parking lot and returning, or, by starting at the top at Montezuma Pass and taking the trail down to the visitor center (3.1 miles). The trail offers scenic views of Montezuma Canyon and the San Pedro River Valley and vistas of Sonora, Mexico.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Seasonally, the memorial’s visitor center offers a free shuttle accompanied by a park ranger to the top of Montezuma Pass allowing hikers to avoid the need of a second vehicle should they only want to hike in one direction (down to the visitor center). The ranger also provides a brief historical perspective but it’s definitely worth a stop at the visitor center to experience an extensive interpretive display detailing the historical circumstances surrounding Francisco Vázquez de Corando’s expedition starting in 1540.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carol staffing the Ramsey Canyon table at Kartchner Cavern's Cavefest in January</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">January snowfall in Ramsey Canyon</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We continued to volunteer at Ramsey Canyon TNC property every Sunday morning. Carol in the gift shop while Tom spent most of his time as a roving naturalist when he wasn’t substituting as a visitor center greeter. We also continued to participate in our local informal birding group’s nearly weekly outings.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bill and Jeff</span></td></tr>
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The pattern of friends visiting from Wisconsin continued when Bill and Jeff, who lived just down the street from our home on E. South River Street, Appleton, stopped by for a day to say hello and share a lunch at our home.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tom, Frank and Paul at Ramsey</span></td></tr>
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Not long after dear friends Frank Beylan and Paul Mach from Las Cruces (who we would also soon see later in the April in Las Cruces) visited for a day encompassing a whirlwind tour of Ramsey Canyon and the visitor center at Coronado National Memorial.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Paul, Frank on our back patio</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Paul would have been a great addition to Coronado's expedition</span></td></tr>
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By late April we were packed and ready to depart for our annual Spring visit to Wisconsin.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">February hike at Guindani Wash Trail, Kartchner Caverns</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">spotted owls, Miller Canyon</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">female Anna's hummingbird</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">wild turkey in Ramsey Canyon</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">weather over the Huachucas</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitq2RnhCYbbBWzQmY4NmuTdJLwItRNoBtUuTVLgHoTsox41BwDJpYcneoHdLkK4t9dnLJG96PSaFmDf599LczW7v5qQdF4RJ3dyEGFpyZlcfp5FaSAaydL2DqAmI1aUzI3_P_vB2eAHfbi/s1600/IMG_9421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="875" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitq2RnhCYbbBWzQmY4NmuTdJLwItRNoBtUuTVLgHoTsox41BwDJpYcneoHdLkK4t9dnLJG96PSaFmDf599LczW7v5qQdF4RJ3dyEGFpyZlcfp5FaSAaydL2DqAmI1aUzI3_P_vB2eAHfbi/s320/IMG_9421.JPG" width="174" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">elegant trogon, Ramsey Canyon</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">snow-covered Huachucas from San Pedro House</span></td></tr>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-39429986539304152792020-04-10T11:54:00.001-07:002020-04-10T13:06:53.124-07:00Costa Rica 2019: Tour 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Following tour one’s farewell dinner on the evening of March 16 (with a very heady tour total of 394 species seen/heard), we began looking forward to the beginning of our second tour.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By noon on the 17th, Betty, Connie and Russell, Marge, Jo Anne, and Cici had departed for the airport leaving the Risé, John and and ourselves the entire afternoon to relax. Richard, our guide and Didier our driver had gone home to catch up with their families.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Newly arriving guests, Peggy Franklin (AZ), Steve and Patty Sielaff (AZ), and Bridget and Tim Hill (WI) would be joining us that evening. Peggy had been to Costa Rica before but for the Seilaffs and Hills, this would be their first neotropical birding experience.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning was the group’s free day. We gradually sauntered in for coffee at the rear of the hotel overlooking the city where introductions were performed. And of course some birding. Patty had taken Carol aside to inform her that she, Patty, had forgotten to pack a few things and wondered where she might buy replacements. While Carol, Patty and Bridget went in search of a K Mart, the rest of the group stayed to explore the <a href="https://hotelbuenavistacr.com/" target="_blank">Hotel Buena Vista</a> grounds.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Save for the name, the K Mart turned out to be nothing at all like any K Mart we were used to in the states. When Richard joined us in the afternoon, he said not to worry. There was a newer Walmart conveniently located next to an eBird hotspot where we would be headed the next morning.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">That evening as we dined, Richard outlined our tour itinerary and what would be our daily routine - eat sleep and bird but not necessarily in that order. We also learned that our driver, Didier, from our first tour, would be with us once again. Yay!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Early the next morning we walked the hotel trails, a good intro to familiarize us with the more common birds we’d be seeing on most days of the tour: tropical kingbird, white-winged dove, rufous-tailed hummingbird, black vulture, turkey vulture, Lesson’s motmot, crimson-fronted parakeet, great kiskadee, social flycatcher, house wren, Tennessee warbler, orange-crowned warbler, great-tailed grackle, blue-gray tanager, palm tanager and Costa Rica’s national bird, the amazingly colorless clay-colored thrush.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Following breakfast, with our luggage loaded onto our coaster and with Deidier at the helm, we headed toward our first overnight, <a href="https://ranchonaturalista.net/" target="_blank">Rancho Naturalista</a>. Of course we rarely travel in a straight line as there are always several birding opportunities along our routes.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One such stop was in front of a favorite coffee shop/plantation. While we did enjoy the shop the real reason was to find a plain-capped star throat nest we'd missed seeing on our pass through the same area on tour one. Success this time! Easy to see why we had missed it the first time - it was hiding in plain sight. Just had to know where to look.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">nest looked like it was part of the support</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">got it!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our next stop, as promised, was an urban eBird hot spot known as Alajuela Walmart Woods a short drive from the hotel. In short order we collected almost 30 species of birds including: ringed kingfisher, Hoffman’s woodpecker, orange-chinned parakeet, common tody-flycatcher, northern beardless-tyrannulet, yellow-breasted elaenia, blue-and-white swallow, Cabanis wren, rufous-capped warbler, Morelet’s seedeater and both buff-throated and grayish saltator.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A short shopping adventure for Patty to restock plus a chance for everyone else to stock up on snacks. Can’t have enough snacks. Especially on days where we had longer drives. Driving east through the traffic of San Jose, our drive to Rancho Naturalista was just over 60 miles.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We first fell in love with Rancho during our 2013 tour. Itching to get back we were excited that Richard had included it on our itinerary.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Probably one of the finest birding lodges in Costa Rica. It provides brilliant birding opportunities with its over 450 species of birds. Add to that gourmet food served family style overlooking the gardens and feeding stations. We arrived in time to briefly bird the road leading to the lodge then got called to lunch.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">even with his back to the feeders, John didn't miss any of the action</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Meals tend to take a bit longer. Not due to slow service but mainly by interruptions whenever a new bird species was spotted. From our dining vantage point we added gray-headed chachalaca, white-tipped dove, white-necked jacobin, green hermit, stripe-throated hermit, purple-crowned fairy, green-breasted mango, violet sabrewing, crowned woodnymph, snowcap, tawny-throated foliage-gleaner, masked tityra, striped=breasted wren, white-breasted wood-wren, ornage-billed sparrow, and green honeycreeper. See why meals can take so long?</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As luck would have it, we were placed in the same second story room we had in 2013, with a private porch overlooking the gardens and a hummingbird feeder right outside our door. Directly across was a large second story deck overlooking the gardens (and where we found coffee first thing in the morning). Across the valley when the clouds cleared, we could see Turrialba, a smoldering active volcano.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">keel-billed toucan was an everyday visitor</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning we birded a bit around the lodge then boarded our coaster for a short jaunt to bird along the Rio Mina. The weather wasn’t quite so cooperative with intermittent rain but it didn’t quell the birding. A highlight was a sunbittern which made frequent forays up and down the river, often flying directing beneath us displaying daziling wing patterns as we stood on a low bridge across the river. Other birds added: streak-headed woodcreeper, black-crowned tityra, torrent tyrannulet, mistletoe tyrannulet, black phoebe, gray-breasted martin, crimson-collared tanager, golden-hooded tanager, and variable seedeater.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">sunbittern (John Bruder photo)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">white-necked jacobin</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Given the time of year we always encounter a number of neotropical migrants which we will ultimately see a few months later during migration in the states: summer tanager, chestnut-sided warbler, MacGillivary’s warbler, Tennessee warbler, Louisiana waterthrush, Baltimore oriole, Swainson’s thrush, and Philadelphia vireo.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">a seasonal plant in the states, poinsettia grows wild in Costa Rica</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back at Rancho for lunch and a bit more birding netted us: red-billed pigeon, roadside hawk, keel-billed toucan, black-cheeked woodpecker, lineated woodpecker, golden-olive woodpecker, white-crowned parrot, white-collared manakin, yellow-olive flycatcher, sulphur-bellied flycatcher, brown jay, bay wren, Montezuma oropendola, and bananaquit.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">orange-billed sparrow</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You'd be surprised how many times we bump into people we either know, or know other acquaintainces we have in common. Such was the case on the deck at Rancho when Carol was chatting with a gentleman who had worked at WI-DNR and who knew many of the same people did when she, Carol, worked for Madison Audubon.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mid afternoon we boarded the coaster again for a very brief drive to Rancho Bajo, the home of the parents of Lisa, Rancho’s owner and manager. The big attraction here were gardens that offered a much more satisfying look at snowcapped hummingbird. But we also added crested guan, chestnut-headed oropendola, golden-winged warbler, mourning warbler, American redtstart, blackburnian warbler, white-lined tanager, and yellow-faced grassquit.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The grounds of Rancho also have a “hummingbird pool” area reached by a narrow trail about a 15 minute walk away. Late in the afternoon, hummingbirds use these pools to bath which can be viewed from a small fenced overlook. Be sure to bring binoculars!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One other bird that made after dark appearances sitting on the railing of the second story deck - a mottled owl. Not everyone got to see it but certainly everyone heard it!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Didier cleaning his coaster, a much preferred mode of transportation</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">March 21 we collected our luggage and had it ready for the coaster before breakfast and table-side birding. Bidding Lisa and the staff farewell, our first stop not too far away was at Casa Turire, an upscale hotel. No, this wasn’t our next overnight but we did scan the grounds and vast surrounding wetlands where we picked up: black-bellied whistling-duck, groove-billed ani, squirrel cuckoo, purple gallinule, white-throated crake, limpkin, anhinga, southern lapwing, northern jacana, neotropic cormorant, and least bittern. Wading birds added to the list were: great egret, snowy egret, little blue heron, and green heron.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">can you see the pumpkin? No?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As we were leaving we added green kingfisher, snail kite, tropical gnatcatcher, red-breasted meadowlark, melodious blackbird, and olive-crowned yellowthroat.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">raptors on the move; barn owl</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As always we stopped whenever Richard had ideas for roadside birding or came across unexpected sightings like a small river with green ibis, a park in the town of Paraiso with a roosting barn owl, massive northward migrating kettles of raptor’s with broad-winged, a perched laughing falcon, and lesser scaup and osprey near a dam.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When we finally arrived at our overnight destination: <a href="https://www.paraisoquetzal.com/en/index.php" target="_blank">Paraisio Quetzal Lodge</a>, we had gained quite a bit of elevation which we felt when we disembarked. At about 8,700 feet, in cloud forest habitat, time to break out extra layers of clothing. Here the average high is 77 degrees F with an overnight low into the the low 40’s. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the past we’ve stayed further down the valley at Savegre Lodge but given the rise in popularity of Savegre, it’s more and more difficult to make reservations far enough in advance. But we’re also up for trying new lodges so this was our first stay at Paraiso.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">rustic with a view</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Lodging was in individual rustic cabins offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Once we were assigned a cabin and our luggage moved in, we met back at the lodge’s restaurant, Los Colibrís for drinks and our evening meal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The restaurant boasts a wall of windows and balcony with closeup views. Hummingbird feeders attracted local hummers although by this time, night had fallen and so too bird activity along with the temperature - we were more interested in the log fires warming the restaurant.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDwMqkSQUySfCEjnImT0ISKmEJat1xm367n9J6khK1pucscrs7UXxOWEx72Bw1S_7U9Uir3qLev6WYA5JRfNiStctBUyvY7ivK2RhxxwfrlLelAY_QPt98W2V4owvq5Qa9kuyPzLKaXSaI/s1600/IMG_0787.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDwMqkSQUySfCEjnImT0ISKmEJat1xm367n9J6khK1pucscrs7UXxOWEx72Bw1S_7U9Uir3qLev6WYA5JRfNiStctBUyvY7ivK2RhxxwfrlLelAY_QPt98W2V4owvq5Qa9kuyPzLKaXSaI/s320/IMG_0787.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">a man and his fries</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYrAPjIpA4Rkifj2vdUmtUMiVAhc8fsdfLK2vM8U1-O7NncqOTTwSiqW3PQnYgKIkz_PXeq6eatxIptTP6sLF2uBc98RDODljURrE_mPp_EHK2ZGwjXdm4ruAv7O7bNQwQvZOLTzzAABHX/s1600/IMG_0840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1207" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYrAPjIpA4Rkifj2vdUmtUMiVAhc8fsdfLK2vM8U1-O7NncqOTTwSiqW3PQnYgKIkz_PXeq6eatxIptTP6sLF2uBc98RDODljURrE_mPp_EHK2ZGwjXdm4ruAv7O7bNQwQvZOLTzzAABHX/s320/IMG_0840.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">having gotten his nemesis bird, John was not at all intimidated</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After dinner and our daily checklist, we were given the next day’s itinerary and retired to our cabin. Did I mention the word “rustic”? There was a small space heater but truthfully, it couldn’t keep up with the cold. Piles of blankets helped. Our morning shower was heated but one didn’t linger in the cold morning air.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Coffee and a light breakfast in the restaurant. Birds from the restaurant’s vantage point included: lesser violetear, Talamanca hummingbird, stunning looks at fiery throated hummingbird, our first looks at volcano hummingbird, long-tailed silky-flycatcher, golden-browed chlorophonia, and slaty flowerpiercer before we hiked out on a local track.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Talamanca hummingbird</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">violetared hummingbird</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0fRHv2s-cGlcltaMnPfncHfqp9Y7AUakD31SMUvuc0Q3W8w4czENd-PyI1LD7KM9-NtyaTe88y-dL3dhXVS0v4zjHy0Ngl-tKybMyvuCTqnYo5rK_lW2JI4DuvW4fS_SYpCLOa-O184Mv/s1600/IMG_0934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="999" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0fRHv2s-cGlcltaMnPfncHfqp9Y7AUakD31SMUvuc0Q3W8w4czENd-PyI1LD7KM9-NtyaTe88y-dL3dhXVS0v4zjHy0Ngl-tKybMyvuCTqnYo5rK_lW2JI4DuvW4fS_SYpCLOa-O184Mv/s320/IMG_0934.jpg" width="199" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">fiery-throated hummingbird</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the surrounding cloud forest habitat we added: silvery-fronted tapaculo (noisy secretive birds), ruddy treerunner, mountain elaenia, black-capped flycatcher, yellow-winged vireo, timberline wren, black-faced solitaire, black-billed nightingale-thruash, mountain thrush, sooty thrush, black-and-yellow silky-flycatcher, and flame-throated tanager. Returning ot the lodge, just outside our cabin, we added yellow-thighed brush finch.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Time for lunch at Los Colibrís, a short break to observe feeders, then we boarded our coaster for a bit more roadside birding along Provedeencia Road with a stop to view feeders (and have some hot drinks) at <a href="https://www.toucanetlodge.com/" target="_blank">Copey de Dota - El Toucanet Lodge:</a> scintallant hummingbird, blue-vented hummingbird, silver-throated tanager, grayish saltator, northern emerald toucanet, spot-crowned woodcreeper, ruddy-capped nightingale-thrush, black-throated green warbler, and Wilson’s warbler.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">long-tailed silky-flycatcher</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On the return trip we stopped along forested dirt road for what was supposed to be, according to a reliable tip, an active resplendent quetzal nest. In the hour and a half we waited, we observed several passing vehicles, but alas, no quetzal. For whatever reason quetzals were hard to come by on both tours. Arriving back at the lodge after dark, we had our evening meal and completed our daily checklist. We later learned that another brid tour group had spent over two hours at the same site with the same results.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFrLZv6dTBg7fbjlEF7bKr5BnQly6JXHo3rCzeWG_tE1mjbUyOdCEPUQu6ssAXWCNKDJBy_m7-3_R-puDYsyLMHcN_tRD9rLmn61uRP6SfztvBC_RNJwT7Exr5xmd3T_iqExZaJ_xh9Uo2/s1600/IMG_0796.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFrLZv6dTBg7fbjlEF7bKr5BnQly6JXHo3rCzeWG_tE1mjbUyOdCEPUQu6ssAXWCNKDJBy_m7-3_R-puDYsyLMHcN_tRD9rLmn61uRP6SfztvBC_RNJwT7Exr5xmd3T_iqExZaJ_xh9Uo2/s320/IMG_0796.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Richard always had time for autographs</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A group of four birders sitting at another table, two with British accents, attracted our curiosity. It turned out to that one couple was part owner/manager of a lodge in Brazil with another couple from Great Britain, had just recently visited the lodge. They were delighted to discover the author of the field guide they had just purchased days earlier, was our guide. Autographs followed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning we set our packed bags at the lodge’s reception entrance and stepped in for hot coffee and place our breakfast orders. During breakfast another couple at a nearby table jumped up and yelled “quetzal!”. We quickly pressed our faces to the windows in time for some of us to catch sight of a male quetzal soar across the valley into the forest canopy. Scoped looks gave most everyone a look at the partly obscured bird before it flew deeper into the cover. Good thing - it was our only sighting of a quetzal during the tour. We heard them calling on a number of occasions but seeing a quetzal is always a must.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We rejoined the paved highway on our way to yet a higher point - the Cerro Buenavista communication towers, the highest point on the Inter-American Highway in Costa Rica, on Cerro de la Muerte (close to 11,000 feet) in the Talamanca Mountains range. It’s name translates to “Mountain of Death or “Summit Death” due to past crossings from the Central Valle on what used to be a three or four day journey on foot or horseback. Many ill-prepared travelers used to much warmer lower elevation weather, succumbed to the cold and rain. Now, with a paved highway and public and private transportation, these weather related deaths have plummeted.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">John, Risé, Richard, Tim, Peggy, Bridget, Didier, Steve, Tom, Patty</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We’ve stopped at the towers many times in the past as this páramo habitat with stunted shrubs, dwarf bamboo and tree ferns, is one of the best places to find volcano junco and timberline wren. Having already found both species earlier, the pressure was off - but it was still fun to get better looks at the juncos.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Visits to the towers can be quite an ordeal owing to weather patterns. Cold, clouds, rain, and winds - we’ve experienced them all and honestly, more often than not. But today the weather was calm and sunny, offering excellent views of smoking Turrialba Volcano.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had just re-boarded our coaster and were headed back down to the paved highway when we met another coaster on its way up. Judging from the passengers it appeared to be another birding group. But what really caught our eye and caused us to stop was the coaster’s driver - “Memo”.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">dynamic duos, past and present</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During our first CR tour in 2004, Memo had been our driver so it was with a great deal of excitement to say hi to Memo and pose for photos. Once the birding group learned who our guide was, well, they all cued up for autographs. Interesting to also note that during our first visit in 2004 with Memo, that the weather at that time had also been excellent.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"author, author"</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back on the road we made a brief potty stop at a roadside restaurant with feeders (and a chance to stock up on more snacks) before stopping at Trapiche de Nayo Restaurant near San Isidro for lunch. More bird action around the restaurant: boat-billed Flycatcher, yellow-throated toucan, and scarlet-thighed dacnis.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">lunch birding at Trapiche</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Lunch out of the way, we took a detour into the town of San Isidro where in the past, while cruising its streets, we’d had good luck finding turquoise cotinga. We drove and walked around looking before sighting an iridescent electric blue dot in surrounding trees. Scoped looks course gave us much better views. The area also netted us crimson-fronted parakeet, yellow-bellied elaenia, scarlet-rumped tanager, and piratic flycatcher.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By late afternoon we had arrived at </span><a href="http://www.talari.co.cr/" style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Talari Mountain Lodge</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, our second never been to before lodge. The lodge’s layout was such that our rooms were separately clustered below the main building housing the restaurant. Nestled in a mixture of landscaped gardens and secondary rain forest and nearby the Chirripo River we dropped off our luggage eager to see what new birds awaited - oh, and what the bar had to offer.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During our walk and while sitting on the deck overlooking some feeders enjoying some beverages, we added new for the trip: rufous-breasted wren, scarlet tanager, bay-headed tanager, and the smallest of woodpeckers, an ovlivaceous piculet. During our walk back to our rooms after nightfall, we added a roosting tropical screech-owl and common pauraque.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the morning we spent a bit more time birding around the lodge before breakfast then set out for a day of roadside birding, first stopping to bird the grounds of at Bosque Del Tolomuco. The grounds of the lodge proved to be most productive: green-crowned brilliant, brown violetear, white-throated mountain-gem, stripe-tailed hummingbird, white-tailed emerald, red-headed barbet, red-crowned woodpecker, western wood-pewee, and elegant euphonia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back at the lodge we encountered a young family with a two young girls, one of which was becoming an ardent birdwatcher. Imagine her thrill when she got to meet the actual author of her field guide and have him sign it!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning a bit more birding at the lodge and along the banks of the river we added: long-billed starthroat, great and cattle egret, green kingfisher, fiery-billed aracari, crested caracara, streaked flycatcher, fork-tailed flycatcher, yellow-throated vireo, southern rough-winged swallow, orange-billed nightingale-thrush, black-striped sparrow, summer tanager, and buff-rumped warbler.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With box lunches in hand, we set out on another day trip, this time headed to <a href="http://www.cct.or.cr/contenido/our-protected-areas/los-cusingos-bird-sanctuary/" target="_blank">Los Cusingos</a>, home of Alexander Skutch, botanist, naturalist and author. It was more than just a little emotion that we found ourselves again at Los Cusingos. It was during our first tour in 2004 that we stopped at then Skutch’s home where we got to meet the 99-year old author and where he signed our Stiles-Skutch field guide, Over his lifetime he wrote numerous scientific papers and books including books on philosophy. But it’s his co-authored Stile-Skutch Filed Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica, that, at least in birding circles, for which he is most remembered. Sadly, a month after we met Dr. Skutch, he passed away, eight days shy of his 100th birthday.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Richard had become good friends with Dr. Skutch while he, Richard, was researching his first edition field guide to the birds of Costa Rica. Not at all meant to replace Skutch’s work which to this day still provides a formidable collection of bird descriptions and field notes on behavior.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Los Cusingos is now a bird sanctuary. Located in a significant biological corridor, one of 47 such corridors in Costa Rica, it is situated in the El General Valley between the Talamanca Mountain range and the Coastal Mountain range. Technically a tropical pre-montane wet life zone. It’s home to a variety of residential bird species as well as long-range migrants (many of the neotropical migrants we see in the United States).</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIvnfjDohYt5iZ6KFixcqZYg8esnhlrT1xd-yE1lKPX3qeE-uvwrS279vfahqr4_07a71LddqR2AOj4eiipzx8Eb-Ah9sw3vJl6RpjR2GjdJCZvupDRQ22_RmIca_DIUSVpDNbHy_pjDyZ/s1600/IMG_1039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="844" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIvnfjDohYt5iZ6KFixcqZYg8esnhlrT1xd-yE1lKPX3qeE-uvwrS279vfahqr4_07a71LddqR2AOj4eiipzx8Eb-Ah9sw3vJl6RpjR2GjdJCZvupDRQ22_RmIca_DIUSVpDNbHy_pjDyZ/s320/IMG_1039.jpg" width="168" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">common potoo</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisK7Twiak_5_t6jMi2tjGzOJCmfSUjEt5ZJ3kAzgGRCK9gGKxq6Pz6Q2zAev10B1F88cU06bursLYZVTKwPgTVq0ptEztLobm-wPJJWq5EsCbhhJJsAIft0B-J4QTHC6TqjuXCBcTndeqr/s1600/IMG_0865.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisK7Twiak_5_t6jMi2tjGzOJCmfSUjEt5ZJ3kAzgGRCK9gGKxq6Pz6Q2zAev10B1F88cU06bursLYZVTKwPgTVq0ptEztLobm-wPJJWq5EsCbhhJJsAIft0B-J4QTHC6TqjuXCBcTndeqr/s320/IMG_0865.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Didier trying his hand at handheld digisscoping</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT9GagSTFFCRLWcRDf5eZyWnK3ptsgAErVMGZjdnlFfSsH_Tr4kuOHg6mjcQ6i2hB4UFMS5lSemlKYJBEWdtqqnb9BNWVAxE1IDAlfcB-Av4GUADnocGtO12m5XIFSpxGDw3ba6VY6bOQM/s1600/IMG_1053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1522" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT9GagSTFFCRLWcRDf5eZyWnK3ptsgAErVMGZjdnlFfSsH_Tr4kuOHg6mjcQ6i2hB4UFMS5lSemlKYJBEWdtqqnb9BNWVAxE1IDAlfcB-Av4GUADnocGtO12m5XIFSpxGDw3ba6VY6bOQM/s320/IMG_1053.jpg" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">owl butterfly (Caligo eurilochus)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We spent a good portion of the day exploring some of the trails with the on-site manager who happened to know a day roost for a common potoo. Other bird species to be ticked that evening on our checklist back at the lodge: black-hooded ant-shrike, dot-winged antwren, bicolored antbird, chestnut-backed antbird, tawny-winged woodcreeper, Chiriqui foliage-gleaner, blue-crowned manakin, orange-collared manakin, red-capped manakin, rufous piha, sulphur-rumped flycatcher, ochre-bellied flycatcher, yellow-olive flycatcher, green-shrike vireo, and riverside wren.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI55nj7SvQL372MT6kY2CUEtDEFoB8gN6pZs9y7DunS3xr12dAYk_xBnL2IyTBy4yIjbOZDyCkuXEReSteiTwMX2RAvtO_l-zV7aS1dOAEruBPv8H5O8eb5hSxHctueDpcADM5YL_oShHN/s1600/IMG_1059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1521" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI55nj7SvQL372MT6kY2CUEtDEFoB8gN6pZs9y7DunS3xr12dAYk_xBnL2IyTBy4yIjbOZDyCkuXEReSteiTwMX2RAvtO_l-zV7aS1dOAEruBPv8H5O8eb5hSxHctueDpcADM5YL_oShHN/s320/IMG_1059.jpg" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">tawny-winged woodcreeper</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCvuBYumOSJ50bptitYUf9EwbRhOsL_7r_FSFb2hxNOK48GhDB5keijLypUgcYMexax3G4DH6AWW6x_ExOlmcsRFaG3hYQdw6mZaXEjFdPiuZpPkqEW-aXHyDgZYoQ2PGrLVTA8KNeJm9N/s1600/IMG_1096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1429" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCvuBYumOSJ50bptitYUf9EwbRhOsL_7r_FSFb2hxNOK48GhDB5keijLypUgcYMexax3G4DH6AWW6x_ExOlmcsRFaG3hYQdw6mZaXEjFdPiuZpPkqEW-aXHyDgZYoQ2PGrLVTA8KNeJm9N/s320/IMG_1096.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">bicolored antbird</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eating our box lunch in a small sheltered area adjacent to the office we reflected on Skutch’s life. He, as a recently graduated botanist from John Hopkins University, first found employment with the United Fruit Company, studying banana diseases in Jamaica. His work took him to Guatemala, Panama, and Honduras, all the while falling in love with the tropics.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Skitch and his wife Pamela</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A lifetime vegetarian he believed in treading lightly on the earth so when he met and married his wife Pamela, daughter of English naturalist and botanist, Charles Lankester (founder of the Lankester Botanical garden in San Jose), they spent the rest of their lives at Los Cusingos (from the Spanish name for Fiery-billed Aracari) without benefit of electricity, and only adding running water in the 1990’s. Dr. Skutch is buried on the property, within eyesight of his former study.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On our return to the lodge along the road to Las Nubes Biological Reserve, we fit in some roadside birding: garden emerald, white-tailed emerald, white-ruffed manakin, tropical pewee, tropical mockingbird, orange-billed nightingale-thrush, white-throated thrush, spot-crowned euphonia, and scarlet-thighed dacnis.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Richard asked us to have our bags packed and sitting outside our cabins so that the next morning we would have an early start for a longer drive needed to get to our next overnight. A little more birding around the grounds netted us gray-cowled wood-rail which we had been hearing but to date hadn’t gotten good looks until now.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back on the road there were opportunities for potty breaks, birding and lunch. Birds along the way included: smooth-billed ani, southern lapwing, mangrove swallow. We also added some unexpected roadside birding when our coaster suffered a blow out of one of the rear tires. Nonplused, Didier had the rear tires broken down and a spare put in place in no time.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We finally reached another OTS property, <a href="https://tropicalstudies.org/portfolio/las-cruces-research-station/" target="_blank">Las Cruces</a>, otherwise known as Wilson Botanical Garden. OTS - the Organization for Tropical Studies - acquired the property from Robert and Catherine Wilson who founded the site in 1962 as a botanical garden and farm. The other OTS property we’re familiar with (visited on tour 1) is also a research station. But we have to say, the facilitates and accommodations at Los Cruces, are, well, a bit more upscale.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The property boasts one of the most important plant collections in Central America, many of the specimens with “endangered” status. The habitat is one of the largest remaining fragments of pre-montane wet forest in southern Costa Rica.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This habitat and nearby surrounding topography provides sanctuary for over 2,000 plant species (20 are endemic), 113 mammal species (including 60 species of bats) more than 400 species of birds and an estimated 70 species of reptiles. More than 1,000 species of insects including 800 species of butterfly. It’s no wonder then, that Las Cruces brings together scientists, artists, and nature lovers from all over the world.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once we were checked in we had time for a mid-afternoon walk to admire and bird some of the nearby gardens: Ruddy-ground dove, scaly-breasted hummingbird, charming hummingbird, swallow-tailed kite, blue-headed parrot, red-faced spinetail, rose-throated becard, gray-capped flycatcher, thick-billed euphonia, and streaked saltator. After BYO adult beverages on our room balconies, we gathered in the dining hall for a buffet meal and to do our daily checklist.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">yellow-throated toucan (formerly chestnut-mandiblesd)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Up early the next morning, the feeding station on a balcony behind the dining area while we sipped coffee proved to be a very popular before we set off for a walk further into the grounds. Gartered trogon, brown-hooded parrot, blue-headed parrot, crested oropendola, speckled tanager, and yellow-bellied seedeater.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After breakfast we again boarded our coaster along with a local Los Cruces guide, and set out for a wooded track near Bosque Rio Negro for one species in particular: lance-tailed manakin. Hunting high and low a few finally caught a glimpse of this nemesis bird while the rest had to settle for “heard only”. We returned to Wilson for lunch and for a little down time after checking a nearby private property for a reported white-crested coquette which unfortunately didn’t appear. Tough day of birding to say the least.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">waiting for a hummer that never appeared - but very pleasant place to wait, yes?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next day more lowland roadside birding: scaled pigeon, broad-winged hawk, slaty spinetail, boat-billed flycatcher, rufous-browed peppershrike, black-bellied wren, rufous-breasted wren, Isthmian wren, black-striped sparrow, yellow-billed cacique, and rufous-capped warbler. A much bigger catch than the day before. Returning to the lodge, and because we’re now in a more humid climate, we took some time off to rest a bit. Some of the group couldn’t sit still - more time to walk the gardens as a light intermittent rain fell.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While leaving the dining area in the evening, the garden lighting had attracted a spectacularly large moth, a Orizaba silk moth (Rothschildia orizaba) also know as Rothchild's giant silk moth.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During our stay at Wilson we bumped into a couple of birders, Larry and Judy Geiger, we’d met in Texas during our RV'ng days. They were from Montana but served as the seasonal “bird hosts” at Goose Island State Park. “Bird hosts” meant that instead of assisting campers, they opened their site up to any and all birders, providing seating to observe feathered visitors to several well-stocked feeders and water drips scattered around their site.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Larry and Judy Geiger (left) with some birding friends they were traveling with</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With breakfast out of the way, Didier drove us closer to the Osa Peninsula and our last lodge on the tour, </span><a href="https://www.esquinaslodge.com/" style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Esquinas Rainforest Lodge</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. But of course Richard took time for some birding along the route. This included a variety of lowland habitats: rice fields near Ciudad Neily and the Puente Negro in the Colorado River area. Pale-vented pigeon, plain-breasted ground-dove, blue ground-dove, mangrove cuckoo, Veraguan mango, black-necked stilt, wood stork, bare-throated tiger-heron, spotted sandpiper, short-tailed hawk, Savanna hawk, Amazon kingfisher, scrub greenlet, yellow-crowned euphonia, bronzed cowbird, giant cowbird, gray-capped flycatcher, and eastern meadowlark.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our route was to drive through the town of Golfito along the north shore of Golfo Duce, a body of water separating the Osa Peninsula from mainland Costa Rica, arriving at the lodge in time for our evening meal. But sometimes the best laid plans do go sideways. After passing through Golfito and turning onto the a wet and winding dirt road (it was raining on and off) we encountered an oncoming vehicle that stopped us to inform Didier that the road ahead was blocked by a fallen tree.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Continuing forward to see for ourselves, there was indeed a large tree that had fallen, taking power lines with it. Just before a bridge crossing, there was no way to go around, especially with possibly live electrical wires. Our only choice was to turn around and drive back through Golfito where we’d probably stop for dinner.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Richard phoned the lodge to tell them we would be late and stopping to eat elsewhere but the lodge insisted they would hold our evening meal. Foregoing eating in Golfito we forged ahead. An hour and a half later we arrived at Esquinas, tired and hungry! We immediately marched into the bar/restaurant area (emphasis on bar) deciding to forego the daily checklist until the next night. We were glad to be settled again, off the road, and well watered and fed. And fortunately, the power that the fallen tree had knocked out had not affected the lodge - or if it had, it had been repaired by the time we arrived.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Esquinas Rainforest Lodge is a jungle villa tucked into the remote Piedras Blancas National Park in southern Costa Rica. This was our last birding lodge stop and as close as we will come to the Osa Peninsula.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The main building, all under a large thatched roof, housed reception, a lobby, kitchen, bar and restaurant,. The menu consisted of typical Tico fare using organically grown vegetables and fruits from its own gardens. Women from nearby La Gamba prepared fresh dishes daily. The bar offered a myriad of drinks with the unusual sight of bats roosting on an interior wall. Very tropical indeed.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The tropical weather was definitely a lot more humid as we’re now close to sea level. The lodge offers an inviting swimming pool but usually on our bird tours we don’t have much time to this kind of goofing off. However, we reminisced about an earlier tour when we first visited Esquinas in 2007. During an afternoon lull as most of the tour swam in the pool, Richard arrived and using his iPod and attached speaker, played and danced to “My Girl”. Richard has a way of livening up tours with music.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The rooms are rustic cabins with private baths. Sorry - no air conditioning. But there was a large ceiling fan. And honestly, the nighttime temps were not all that bad - just humid.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">white witch moth (Thysania Agrippina)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">First thing in the morning, the best time for birding before the daytime temps get too warm, we gathered for our caffeine fix and fresh fruit drinks and light breakfast in the spacious dining area which offered views of surrounding vegetation. Fortified, we set out on a short walk on some of the trails.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During our morning walk we encountered the young man who, while we were eating at Paraiso Quetzal Lodge had been the one to draw our attention to a flyby resplendent quetzal. He informed us that the day before, while walking through some leaf clutter near where we were standing, he had been bitten by a coral snake! Or at least he thought he’d been bitten. To be on the safe side he was taken into a clinic in Golfito to be checked out. It was determined the snake had not broken the skin and therefore not a problem. The lesson learned was not to walk about wearing open-toed sandals! We noticed some of our tour was also a but more observant while walking through leaf litter.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back in time for lunch then time off during the heat of the day before another walk that preceded our evening meal. That night we finally got caught up on our checklist from the previous day. Adult beverages were indeed refreshing. Birds on the day included: long-billed hermit (easily seen around the main building) northern jacana, slaty-tailed trogon, Baird’s trogon, gartered trogon, mealy parrot, dusky antbird, white-winged becard, red-eyed vireo, yellow-green vireo, Baltimore oriole, and blue-black grosbeak.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">white-lined sac winged bat (Saccopteryx bilineata)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our next and last day of birding at Esquinas began with another walk about the property before boarding our coaster for some roadside birding on the La Gambia road. This was the same dirt road we would have arrived on were it not for the downed tree. Now coming from the opposite direction, we found the site where the downed tree had been removed. We were also surprised to discover just how close we’d been to getting to the lodge before we had to turn back and detour - about a ten minute drive!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">very cooperative green heron</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The birding was good today (as it has been on most days) adding: gray-chested dove, Costa Rican swift, lesser swallow-tailed swift, violet-headed hummingbird, white-crested coquette (for a few), purple gallinule, magnificent frigatebird, white ibis, ringed kingfisher, cocoa woodcreeper, pale-breasted spinetail (we’ve now seen all three possible spinetails!), band-tailed barbthroat, crowned woodnymph, a very cooperative poser green heron in front of the lodge’s main building, double-toothed kite, golden-naped woodpecker, great crested flycatcher, rusty-margined flycatcher, plain xenops, Chiriqui foliage-gleaner, eye-ringed flatbill, dusky-capped flycatcher, tawny-crowned greenlet, cliff swallow, red-breasted meadowlark, long-billed gnatwren, thick-billed seedfinch, and northern waterthrush.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our last night at Esquinas was extra special in that this second tour was Richard’s last tour before retiring from guiding. That morning before we left the lodge, Carol had secretly requested a special celebration cake which the kitchen staff prepared for desert following our evening meal. She had requested that the wording on the cake read “Happy Trails”. This greatly confused the staff who sadly were not familiar with Roy Rogers.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWp2GSbiAIxGlZz2IwaRliEUS5M2XcgK7kv5JQjELsej03-ikVQ_NPBN1M7ukTm1FbNiLtGC3GTUVgC5DNx-hetmYvwBujoOgEab0mXcQEick2MfkRJaDhmKLawDIEXshHjJsAQ6qEZ1p/s1600/Capto_Capture-2020-04-10_10-51-43_AM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWp2GSbiAIxGlZz2IwaRliEUS5M2XcgK7kv5JQjELsej03-ikVQ_NPBN1M7ukTm1FbNiLtGC3GTUVgC5DNx-hetmYvwBujoOgEab0mXcQEick2MfkRJaDhmKLawDIEXshHjJsAQ6qEZ1p/s320/Capto_Capture-2020-04-10_10-51-43_AM.jpg" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">a grainy still frame from the video</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At the appropriate moment the cake was delivered to the table, complete with candles and applause. And of course, because this is Richard who always seems to be able to pull out the appropriate song on his iPod, he played Roy Rogers singing “Happy Trails” as we all joined in. There was enough cake leftover to share with the staff who were delighted and who while not understanding “Happy Trails” did appreciate the cake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our next day, our last full day of birding, was spent on a very long drive back to San Jose, but again, broken up with potty stops, lunch and naturally some roadside birding. Our route took us along the Pacific Coast where we enjoyed the opportunity to flesh out our bird list with coastal bird species: black-bellied plover, whimbrel, least sandpiper, willet, laughing gull, royal tern, brown pelican, tricolored heron, roseate spoonbill, plumbeous kite, zone-tailed hawk, and finally scarlet macaw!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As planned, Richard had us back at the Hotel Buena Vista by mid afternoon. Time to relax, spend some time packing, a quick dip in the pool for some, and time at the bar enjoying more spicy margaritas.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tim explaining his top favorites of the tour</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">a moment of serious reflection</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As we gathered for dinner and our final checklist tally, we shared our top five favorite birds of the tour amid much mirth and laughter. Then it was time to settle our accounts with the hotel and turn in as we all were facing early morning transport to the airport for our respective flights home.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSna_sHTLTbcnJYCWc_dVWHMRHJ_4yyvTN-_rUJeXQIJvzLnGqQzRL7bZf8e2fA8ysU177prNH5v-S2Me7VwwFUeO248m38PGiXhzbfPV9lurZ-GIcU-RRJqHqcaH4itlyPBR8z3YPe0t3/s1600/IMG_1035.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1036" data-original-width="1600" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSna_sHTLTbcnJYCWc_dVWHMRHJ_4yyvTN-_rUJeXQIJvzLnGqQzRL7bZf8e2fA8ysU177prNH5v-S2Me7VwwFUeO248m38PGiXhzbfPV9lurZ-GIcU-RRJqHqcaH4itlyPBR8z3YPe0t3/s320/IMG_1035.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">L-R standing: Tom, Tim, John, Risé, Richard, Steve, Patty<br />seated: Carol, Bridget, Peggy</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTDsyFaQX5v_aJ1CIkAWLciZA_aVf_tkbgHgPfZMKHcx-vNDsF284kZlDalPVvmCkLhD1eR5G1EbtOysjnS00VAN6UnxA35GKB6nR6YPI6sRMJ4TGBB9V_Fj0LbbTWPnXslwg14iY4qw2Q/s1600/IMG_1039.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1386" data-original-width="1600" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTDsyFaQX5v_aJ1CIkAWLciZA_aVf_tkbgHgPfZMKHcx-vNDsF284kZlDalPVvmCkLhD1eR5G1EbtOysjnS00VAN6UnxA35GKB6nR6YPI6sRMJ4TGBB9V_Fj0LbbTWPnXslwg14iY4qw2Q/s320/IMG_1039.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">next to us, Risé and John have been on the most tours with Richard</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">we're going to miss him</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was a bitter sweet farewell as this was Richard’s last guided tour. We’d become good friends over the years since our first meeting in 2004. Many fun stories and shared adventures with so many of our birding friends. How fortunate we’ve been to have shared so much with so many.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Over the course of the month we had birded our way from the dry forests to the north near the Nicaraguan border to the south and the Panama border plus the Caribbean and Pacific coasts. Aside from our start and finish destination for each tour at the Hotel Buena Vista, we visited eleven other lodges, two of which were new to us. Our final tally for both tours topped 500 species (504 of which 5 were heard only). And although our country list was already high, we still managed to add an amazing 22 new country birds with 7 of these being life birds.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We wondered…will there be a reunion tour…?</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">immature male white-necked jacobin</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rio Mina</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">band-tailed pigeon</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">black-capped flycatcher</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">crimson-fronted parrot</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">red-lored parrot</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">thick-billed euphonia</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">green spiny lizard</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">common basilisk (Basiliscus basaliscus)</span></td></tr>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-76498486180748167962020-03-31T11:36:00.000-07:002020-04-09T08:49:21.658-07:00Costa Rica 2019: Tour 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">March 2019. Costa Rica. Two back-to-back tours. Our 9th and tenth tours respectively since 2004. What some have billed as the “farewell tours”. Farewell tours? Yes, our long-time friend and guide, Richard Garrigues, served notice that he was retiring as a guide. Well, ‘retiring’ in that he will have more time for contract work organizing ground logistics for other tour companies. And continue work on the next edition of his highly successful “The Birds of Costa Rica: A Field Guide”, now in its second edition (now available in Spanish).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">But first we had to get Costa Rica. On the day of our flight, we were in the process of being driven to the Tucson airport by friends Ron and Renell when a keen-eyed Border Patrol agent at the usual checkpoint spotted a large bolt embedded in the front left tire of their SUV. Rather than risk a blow-out, and worried about the amount of time it would take to change the large tire, we called friends Ken and Jenniene, literally getting them out of bed on a Sunday morning. They collected us from Ron and Renell’s vehicle, eventually dropping us off at the airport well within the time allotted to board.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Meanwhile, our American Airlines app had indicated our flight was at the gate but that there was a “15 minute delay”. Standing in what seemed like a very long line to check our bag, we finally discovered that due to a “mechanical problems” our flight would not take off on time to make our connecting flight in Phoenix. To that end, American Airlines rebooked us on a later flight.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rebooking sounded innocent enough but our rebooking now had us leaving Tucson at 4:45 in the afternoon (we had already been at the airport since 10:00 a.m.). Our connecting flight in Phoenix wouldn’t depart Phoenix until - wait for it - 1:25. a.m. the next morning! Oh, and now instead of a direct flight to San Jose, we had a connecting flight in Miami!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Making this delay even more frustrating was that our original flight to San Jose had been to fly out on an overnight Sunday flight from Tucson-Phoenix-San Jose, arriving early the next morning. But a month or so after we had made that reservation, American Airlines informed us that they had cancelled it, instead, bumping up our flight to have us arrive in San Jose a day earlier. This meant that we now had to make an extra hotel reservation due to arriving a day sooner. Arriving early in Costa Rica is never a problem. In fact we encourage all our tour members to do the same.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">However, with this current series of delays, we wound up arriving in San Jose a day later, ironically on the day we had originally planned to arrive. In the process, we wound up having to pay a $140 for a room we never got to use - and for which there was no refund.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During our long ordeal at both Tucson and Phoenix we learned that a) American Airlines customer service sucks, b) there is a free shuttle that runs from Tucson to Phoenix that had we known about, we could have made our connecting flight, and c) even taking an Uber from Tucson to Phoenix would have cost about the same as our delayed flight (and gotten us door to door service). We swore never to use American Airlines again but also acknowledging that U.S. domestic airlines in general are all bad. It’s just that AA seems to be leading the pack for worst service.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Having been up for nearly 36-hours, tired and upset, we were happy to have finally arrived. Silver lining? We were able to check immediately into our room at the <a href="https://hotelbuenavistacr.com/" target="_blank">Hotel Buena Vista</a> - the one we’d paid for but hadn’t slept in yet.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUALrob8DfjbTuIQ8wjggGUG6tPSW1e7ILgDZ69iZDlvArPgPfKq-B6Xpd-rlKokwzdnKw8jbQ1JAdDAGXxhyUA8O2f-P7vaBTyS_YEcAfWij9lYrbraW2IAnITEzNh0g82Ii1jlXy-sjD/s1600/IMG_0345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1092" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUALrob8DfjbTuIQ8wjggGUG6tPSW1e7ILgDZ69iZDlvArPgPfKq-B6Xpd-rlKokwzdnKw8jbQ1JAdDAGXxhyUA8O2f-P7vaBTyS_YEcAfWij9lYrbraW2IAnITEzNh0g82Ii1jlXy-sjD/s320/IMG_0345.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Marge was apparently happy to be out of Wisconsin winter weather</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD9RqaXTMPYwIPaCBoCfwopCGxmzOmzGarKiJAWp6LldI5r31HzvqeMtQKZwzn1KKaopHBQTvh-45z-cnbKf2pmGHF5ei2zChmFid2AgOKmjRuNmm0P6YthChp4hK8AAPKW_Y0USk_Qu1B/s1600/IMG_0346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1081" data-original-width="1600" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD9RqaXTMPYwIPaCBoCfwopCGxmzOmzGarKiJAWp6LldI5r31HzvqeMtQKZwzn1KKaopHBQTvh-45z-cnbKf2pmGHF5ei2zChmFid2AgOKmjRuNmm0P6YthChp4hK8AAPKW_Y0USk_Qu1B/s320/IMG_0346.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jo Anne, Cici, Tom, Betty</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Our first group was comprised of Carol’s sister, Marge Hill, long time friend Betty Dunsmore, Connie and Russell Upstill (we first met them while Carol and I volunteering at Boyce Thompson Arboretum SP), John Bruder and Resé Foster Bruder from Colorado (a ouple we’ve known on several other tours), and two people from Colorado we’d never met but had been recommended by the Bruders, Jo Peterson and Cici Lee. Marge and the Bruders have traveled to Costa Rica with us on prior trips. Betty and her husband Dave had spent a week with us in Costa Rica when we had rented a cabin but this was Betty’s first ‘official’ birding tour. For the Upstills, Jo and Cici, this was their first visit to CR.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Risé and Connie were happy to have arrived as well.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Connie and Russell had arrived the day before (we should have been on the same flight from Phoenix-San Jose but obviously missed it). John and Risé arrived at the same time as we did. The rest of the folks arrived later in the day and by the evening of Monday March 4, we all managed to share adult beverages and an evening meal in the now very familiar Hotel Buena Vista.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Spicy Margaritas - a crowd pleaser</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The official tour wouldn’t begin until the next morning which allowed an extra day to pursue various options. Some elected to hire a van to visit historic Alejuela, a small town at the foot of the hills below the hotel. Others elected for pool-side relaxation and birding the hotel grounds. By late afternoon our guide Richard appeared and with introductions all around, we learned about what Richard had outlined our first day’s activities. No more sleeping in for anyone for the next few weeks!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">John, Marge, Betty, Carol, Russ, Connie, Risé, Jo Anne on their walk-about</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">It is worth noting that the staff and accommodations at the hotel were, as always, superb. The hotel menu is broad and varied and the bar well stocked. This year the popular drink was a special “spicy margarita” and the ever popular selection from the menu, a “watermelon gazpacho”.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">kicking things off on the hotel grounds</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Wednesday March 6 kicked off at daybreak with a leisurely stroll around the grounds, for many in the group, their first introduction to some of the more common neotropical bird species: rufous-tailed hummingbird, tropical kingbird, blue-gray tanager clay-colored thrush, Hoffman’s woodpecker, crimson-fronted parakeet, great kiskadee, and our first motmot of the tour, the recently split from blue-crowned motmot, lesson’s motmot. Even some wintering North American warbler species: Tennessee warbler. Over the course of the month we would encounter several more familiar neotropical migrant warbler species.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Great Kiskadee</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Following a continental breakfast we met our driver Didier (we knew Didier from past tours), loaded our luggage aboard our spacious coaster bus and began our journey by heading out of the Central Valley toward the Pacific coast lowlands and <a href="https://costa-rica-guide.com/nature/national-parks/carara/" target="_blank">Carara National Park</a>.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">over the years one of our favorite stops</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">“Carara” takes its name from the Huetar Indian word for crocodile. Visitors to the area will know of the Tarcoles River Bridge where views of crocodiles resting and swimming in the river below. As for Carara NP, the principle habitat is comprised of tropical rainforest lowland and tropical dry forest. Arriving just before mid-morning we had time to experience part of the trail system where we encountered stripe-throated hermit, slaty-tailed trogon, Bairds trogon, pale-billed woodpecker, scarlet macaw, riverside wren, long-billed gnatwren, plain xenops and an unusually out of range green ibis.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Slaty-tailed Trogon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our overnight was at the </span><a href="https://villalapas.com/" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Hotel Villa Lapas</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> where we arrived in time to catch lunch (buffet style) followed by a brief down time during the heat of the afternoon to explore the hotel grounds: yellow-throated toucan, fiery-billed aracari, piratic flycatcher, and lineated woodpecker kept people from resting too much!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Black-hooded Antshrike</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mid-afternoon we returned to Carara for a bit of late afternoon birding. One spot in particular is an ideal location for up close views of members of the manakin family: blue-crowned and red-capped. Other late afternoon birds attracted to the water included northern waterthrush, great tinamou, and eye-ringed flatbill. Additional species along the trail included blue-black grosbeak, chestnut-backed antbird, streak-chested antpitta (seen walking on the trail ahead of the group), black-faced antthrush, black-throated trogon, northern schiffornis, and blue-throated goldentail. Fortunately, Didier always has his binocular with him on the coaster so when Russell accidentally left his pair back at the lodge, Didier loaned his pair! Didier is quite the birder and over the course of both tours, he on several occasions, spotted birds for us.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Red-capped Manakin</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Early morning or late afternoon is always a good time to bird in the humid lowlands so our late afternoon foray was very productive. We’ve enjoyed this site many time in the past, however, on this particular occasion, while we were observing the manakins, a noisy fellow arrived on the scene talking loudly on a cell phone. It turned out he was a park ranger who brusquely urged us to leave - that the park was closed!? We had never before encountered such a rude person at Carara but the guy was so insistent. And loud. Richard tried to reason with him but there was no convincing the guy otherwise. So we reluctantly began our journey out of the preserve (it was actually close to the time we usually leave anyway). Apparently not fast enough for the ranger as he kept rudely saying saying “I don’t mean to be rude but you have to leave now!”. In the meantime there were birds to be seen so Richard kept stopping - much to the annoyance of the ranger who was far more interested in pushing people rather than appreciating us appreciating what he, as a park ranger, was supposedly there to protect.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Richard in discussion about being tossed out of the park</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time we arrived at the end of the trail where our coaster was waiting, more park officials had gathered demanding Richard and Didier show their papers (plus photographing the coaster’s registration). Was Richard going to be hauled off to the calaboose? Would we have to storm the officials (we far outnumbered them)? In the end Richard, the preeminent author of the best selling Birds of Costa Rica was officially kicked out of the park and told not to return. The joke of course was that Richard was retiring anyway and that this was in fact his last tour of the park in his official guide capacity. But lots of other tour companies visit this park and this particular spot at this time of day. What will be be in store for them?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Back at the lodge there was time for libations, our evening meal and the first introduction to logging of the daily checklist. This was also the time Richard reviewed what would be in store for us the next day. Suffice to say this was only the first day of the tour but for those who had not birded Costa Rica before (or not been in the tropics before), it must have been overwhelming.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Up early the next morning we boarded the coaster for a short drive to the boat docks on the Tarcoles River where Richard had reserved a boat to tour the mangroves. The river originates on the southern slopes of the Cordillera Central and flows south 70 miles before emptying into the Gulf of Nicoya. We’ve done the same river tour a few times in the past (once in a downpour) but we have to say that this tour was by far the most pleasurable. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Even before we reached the boat, there were turquoise-browed motmots, ferruginous pygmy-owls, and black-headed trogons in the parking lot! Once aboard, there were several species of shorebirds and water birds (oh, the boat-billed herons!), as our boatman negotiated the main channel and eventually out to the mouth of the river. But there were some special birds found only in this habitat we were searching for - and were not disappointed. Mangrove hummingbird (not as easily found or seen as one would expect), Panama flycatcher, mangrove vireo, melodious blackbird, and red-breasted meadowlark. There were ringed and green kingfishers but the star of the day was the American pygmy-kingfisher - several were observed quite close to our boat! As we were leaving the parking lot Didier stopped to share with us a roosting black-and-white owl he had found!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back at the lodge, an evening meal, daily checklist and instructions for the next day: a walk before breakfast, pack, then journey to our next destination, the region of Monteverde. Along the way we roadside birded which netted us double-striped thick-knee, stripe-headed sparrow, streak-backed oriole and the “Sheldon bird”, white-throated magpie-jay. An early afternoon lunch stop at Restaurant El Sol gave us time to peruse a few bird species from the restaurant’s deck adding olive sparrow, rufous-naped wren and a flock of orange-chinned parakeets feeding on nearby fruiting trees.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rufous-naped Wren</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Nearing the town of Monteverde we gained in elevation, transitioned from dry forest to cloud forest, and as we did, the air became cooler and the countryside greener. Prevailing northeast trade winds can be gusty at times, evidenced by windy conditions when we arrived at the </span><a href="http://www.monteverdemountainhotel.com/content/" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Hotel de Montaña Monteverde</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. We had just a short time to hike down to a small lake and even with such windy conditions, we picked out gray-headed chachalaca, red-billed pigeon, Cabanis’s wren, Morelet’s seedeater, and yellow-faced grassquit. Then it was time to sample the hotel’s bar, go through our daily checklist and a quiet meal in the hotel’s restaurant before retiring.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Monteverde is a small village located in the Cordillera de Tilarán mountain range. Various pre-Colombian artifacts indicate the existence of Clovis Native Americans but the most recent history from the 1950’s is the presence of Quakers who farm the area and who are largely responsible for setting aside land for conservation - the present day <a href="https://cloudforestmonteverde.com/" target="_blank">Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve.</a></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hotel grounds</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Weather at Monteverde is iffy at best in March…which is true of many cloud forest habitats. Sunny and bright one moment and enveloped in dense fog the next. We’ve experienced both on previous tours. The weather this morning looked promising.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before breakfast, while waiting for coffee, we surveying the hotel’s hummingbird feeders on the restaurant balcony: steely-vented hummingbird, rufous-tailed hummingbird, magenta-throated woodstar, lesser violetear, and violet saberwing. On the ground below, the all too common (but nevertheless handsome) rufous-collared sparrow and a few white-eared ground-sparrows. In the distance, brown jays.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Violet Sabrewing</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Following breakfast we were off to our first stop, </span><a href="https://www.santuarioecologico.com/" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Santuario Ecológico</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, a private reserve where three-wattled bellbirds had been reported. A member of the Cotinga family, these birds breed in the montane region of Costa Rica and are altitudinal migrants from Honduras, Nicaragua, and Panama, usually arriving by March in CR. A striking bird with white head chestnut body and remarkable long grayish-black wattles hanging down from the base of its bill. But as striking in appearance as this bird is, what’s even more striking is the loud, piercing “boi-nng” sound.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">that calling bellbird has to be around here somewhere!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Every birder always has a “nemesis” bird - a bird they have searched high and low for on repeated occasions but have yet to see. The three-wattled bellbird was John Bruder’s nemesis bird having missed seeing (or even hearing) a bellbird on previous visits to Costa Rica. To say that John was eager to find one (as was the rest of the group to help find one for him) was an understatement. So imagine John’s heart rate when we stepped out of the coaster and immediately heard the distinctive bellbird ‘boi-nng”! The bird is large and can be very vocal, it’s not always the easiest to spot - but within minutes we were on a male bellbird perched high on a bare branch. No more nemesis bird for John, (and a very nice life bird addition for several in the group).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Richard, on all of his tours, whenever possible, much prefers stopping for lunch at a local cafe or restaurant versus packing a box lunch. In Monteverde we were hankering for pizza and that meant a stop at <a href="http://www.tramonticr.com/" target="_blank">Tramonti Ristorante E Pizzería</a>! And no lunch would be complete without stopping just up the road at the Monteverde Cheese Factory for an ice cream treat!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Connie and Russell</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Next up, the </span><a href="http://Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve" style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">. Established in 1972 it encapsulates eight life zones with 8 miles of trails and is home to over 100 species of mammals, 400 species of birds and 1,200 species of amphibians and reptiles. It’s a very popular destination for thousands of tourists each year and while it’s gratifying to see it be so popular, “popular” also means crowded trails. For birders, crowded trails with at times boisterous tourists can be frustrating. The best time to visit is either early in the morning before the influx of large tourist jammed buses arrive, or, late in the afternoon after most of the tourists have headed back to whence they came. We opted today for late afternoon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There were still a number of vehicles in the parking area so we were dropped off at the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/monteverdehummingbirdgallery/" target="_blank">Monteverde hummingbird gallery</a> (a small cafe outside the park grounds) where several of the species we’d seen earlier at the hotel feeders were present…but in much greater numbers and closer in proximity, zipping and zinging over and around our heads. This was also a good spot to add stripe-tailed and coppery-headed emerald. A short walk to the park entrance with a few minutes to shop the gift shop, avail ourselves of the restrooms, and we were off.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One bird synonymous with Costa Rica, and Monteverde in particular, is the resplendent quetzal. It’s THE bird even none birders appreciate and seek out. And as with John’s desire obsession to see a bellbird, another in our group harbored a lifelong desire to see a quetzal. At one point as we were crossing a narrow hanging bridge, a male quetzal was first heard and then landed near the bridge. Somewhat buried in the foliage, we got eye level views. Not the greatest view but definitely an exciting time for JoAnne.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jo Anne's quetzal celebration libation</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As other tourists walked onto the bridge we started moving off to make room. A few moments later, the quetzal called and as he did, we turned back in time to catch the male emerging from cover, flying into the dazzling sunlight, it’s resplendent tail feathers trailing behind, an iridescent spectacle of green streaking across the valley. We’ve seen quetzals before in even closer circumstances but the vision of this bird’s blazing green feathers will be forever etched in our minds.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Resplendent Quetzal (photo from one of our previous tours)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Reaching the end of the bridge we stopped for a group photo to mark the experience. That’s when we noticed JoAnne, apparently overcome with emotion, was crying. Tears of joy! It’s moments like these, when an unforgettable experience occurs, that makes these tours so worthwhile to us!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">local guide get's Richard to autograph his field guide then shows off his tat</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Of course there were other bird species found at Monteverde: tufted flycatcher, lineated foliage-gleaner, slate-throated redstart, crested guan, black guan, gray-breasted wood-wren, slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush, slaty flowerpiercer, and even more bellbirds! By late afternoon just as the park was closing we staked out a quetzal nest where a female made a brief appearance…but nothing to compare with our earlier sighting. Back to the lodge for celebratory bellbird and quetzal drinks, dinner, the daily checklist and our marching orders for the next day.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Breakfast and fortified with much needed caffeine, we grabbed our luggage and began our day trip to Celeste Mountain Lodge. But before departing Monteverde, a stop at the </span><a href="https://www.monteverdeinfo.com/tours/santa-elena-cloud-forest-reserve" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. Similar habitat to the Monteverde cloud forest trails but a good location for adding some of the “skulkers”, birds that are vocal but shy to make an appearance from dense underbrush that we had thus far missed. Birds like silvery-fronted tapaculo. We also encountered spotted barbtail, ruddy treerunner, black-faced solitaire, ruddy-capped Nightingale-thrush, and slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our route to Celeste took us along several back gravel roads through rolling farmlands north to the pass between Tenorio and Mirvalles volcanoes and more roadside birding. Swallow-tailed kite were plentiful. Brown-crested flycatcher, groove-billed ani, laughing falcon, social flycatcher, boat-billed flycatcher, tropical pewee, and gray-crowned yellowthroat. Skirting the western shore of Lake Arenal provided unusually clear views of Arenal Volcano (we would stay at Arenal Observatory Lodge later in the tour).</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">lunch stop at Cafe & Macadamia on Lake Arenal</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The usual ‘go to’ restaurant was closed so we back tracked a bit to a place on the lake we’d seen signs for on earlier tours but thought it might be too touristy. Didier convinced us otherwise. </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/cafeymacadamia/" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Cafe Macadamia</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> was definitely worth a stop. Sandwiches were massive and soups divine! Plus a nice view of the lake from their outdoor seating section. Very family friendly and fast service considering the number of diners.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">After passing through the small bucolic village of Bijaqua de Upalla we arrived at </span><a href="https://celestemountainlodge.com/en/" style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Celeste Mountain Lodge</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">. Just enough time to check in and relax with our usual late afternoon adult beverages while taking in the lodge’s contemporary architecture and landscaped surroundings. A row of stools at a counter facing outward through a massive opening provided views of the setting sun over Cerro Montezuma. Tantalizing aromas teased us from the open kitchen while scarlet-rumped tanagers, red-legged honeycreepers, black-cheeked woodpeckers, and yellow-throated euphonias provided entertainment at the feeders just a few yards away. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This eco-lodge has “eco” with a capital “E”. Designed by Costa Rican resident, Belgian-born architect Jacqueline Gillet, the lodge adheres to a philosophy of sustainable tourism with low environmental impact and eco-friendly practices. You won’t find a Coke or Pepsi product sold here. No water in plastic bottles. The entire concept, use of furniture and decorations conceived by the owners, were in large part the result of using recycled materials.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our evening’s offering of French-influenced fusion cuisine meal arrived on the lodge’s signature “plates”, wooden boards with a layer of banana leaves as our host described in detail the evening’s menu. Stuffed, we retired to a convenient lounge area for the daily checklist and learned what lay in store for us the next day. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Out the door by 5:45 e headed toward the lodge’s undulating private trail system which weaved through forested foothills. The trail is unique in that an underlayment comprised of a web-like material provided a guard against erosion as well as surer footing. Celeste has been a reliable location for finding the smallest of the motmot family - tody motmot. A pair was found feeding a some distance up a small ravine. Scouring the understory we found russet antshrike, streak-crowned antvireo, chestnut-backed antbird and spotted antbird. A tiny sprite of a bird, the scale-crested pygmy-tyrant, while hard to see, when seen, almost always that makes the tour’s top five favorites list - nice looks with it’s raised crest. Nightingale wren, stripe-breasted wren, orange-billed sparrow, and Carmoli’s tanager before returning to the lodge for breakfast. A few more species added to the lodge’s feeder watch - crimson-collared tanager and green honeycreeper.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Crimson-collared Tanager</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After a filling breakfast we boarded our coster for a short - less than 1km - drive to the </span><a href="https://www.tapirvalley.com/" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Tapir Valley Nature Reserve</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, a reserve started with the vision of protecting valuable rainforest habitat for many mammals including Baird’s tapir. Largely nocturnal we harbored no illusions of actually seeing a tapir so we were not surprised when we didn’t. But our walk through a large portion of the reserve (dodging rain here and there) did put us in touch with an amazing number of bird species. Probably one of our best stops, bird-wise, on the tour: squirrel cuckoo, white-collared swifts, green hermit, long-billed hermit, (even an unusual for Costa Rica ruby-throated hummingbird), bronze-tailed plumeleteer, white-throated crake, bare-throated tiger-heron, double-toothed kite, white hawk, gartered trogon, broad-billed motmot, keel-billed toucan, brown-hooded parrot, thicket antpitta (pretty much heard only), common tody-flycatcher, white-ruffed manakin, masked tityra, bay wren, black-faced grosbeak, rufous-winged tanager, shining honeycreeper, and thick-billed seed-finch. Whew! Clearly there would be a lot of checks added to the daily checklist tonight!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gartered Trogon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back to the lodge for lunch then a little downtime. Well, down time for a few who elected to stay back at the lodge while the majority of the group chose for a return hike into the lodge’s private trail system to mop up a few species we’d missed earlier in the day. The upside was that while we added new species, the downside was that the trail we took was supposed to have a “shortcut” section leading back to the trail we’d covered earlier. And it did. Unfortunately, the shortcut section was closed. “Under repair” the sign read. But by this time we were better than halfway through the longer section of trail. Turn back or forge ahead? Nah. We forged ahead and as a result logged a lot more distance (and elevation gain). We certainly earned our adult beverages and evening meal! As for the added bird species we got excellent looks at purplish-backed quail-dove, rufous-tailed jacamar, wedge-billed woodcreeper, rufous mourner, tawny-crowned greenlet, golden-crowned warbler, and repeat looks at tody motmot, always a group favorite.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Marge chose to stay back and watch the feeders</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">The next morning (grabbing coffee first, of course), we checked a spot near the lodge’s parking lot for a bird some had missed earlier: white-tipped sicklebill. An impressively larger hummingbird with a deeply curved bill suited for probing flowering heliconia…which is where we found the bird, frequenting a stand of heliconia! We collected our luggage and bidding farewell to Celeste staff, we headed into the lowlands toward the </span><a href="https://costa-rica-guide.com/nature/refuges/cano-negro/" style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge </a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">and Nicaraguan border.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">have you ever seen a box lunch packaged like this?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">What? No breakfast at Celeste? Not exactly. The lodge had prepared a “box breakfast” for us to take on the road. In keeping with the lodge’s signature meal presentations, we discovered that all the food was individually wrapped in banana leaves held together with toothpicks. The one “utensil” we were given to eat with was a wooden tongue depressor! And without doubt, the best box breakfast we’d every experienced.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Travel time to our next overnight wasn’t very long giving us time for more roadside birding. In the past we’ve walked/birded a dyke road through part of the <a href="https://www.birdingforconservation.com/2019/01/birding-the-medio-queso-wetlands/" target="_blank">Medio Queso Wetland</a>. The road leads to a small ferry across a narrow channel used by people traveling to and from the small town of Los Chiles on the border with Nicaragua. Quick historic fact: During the 1980’s, it was a strategic location on an important supply route for the Contras fighting to overthrow the Sandinista government in Nicaraqua. During that time, U.S. military were a common (albeit illegal) sight on the streets of the town. By late afternoon when we arrived at the ferry, but this time Richard had a surprise in store for us - a local guide was waiting to take us on a water trip through part of the wetland.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">See the crakes? We did but yes, they're that tough to spot.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here we fleshed out our trip list with more wading birds but the prize we were seeking was two crakes species: yellow-breasted and white-throated. During our time at the landing plus in the flat boat as it was maneuvered through tangles of aquatic vegetation, we added plain-breasted ground-dove, green-breasted mango, southern lapwing, northern jacana, wood storks, pinnated bittern, roseate spoonbill, Amazon kingfisher, peregrine falcon, fork-tailed flycatcher, mangrove swallow, Nicaraguan grackle, and of course both crakes! Sightings of several distant jabirus was icing on the cake!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By the time we returned to the ferry landing it was early nightfall and time to get to our lodge where they were holding an evening meal. On the back road trip to the lodge we came upon a striped owl sitting atop a fence post next to the road. Totally nonplused the bird sat giving us excellent looks. Dead easy owling!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://hoteldecampo.com/hotel-in-costa-rica-vacation/" target="_blank">Hotel De Campo</a> was our overnight. Given that this is at a very low elevation, the air was thick and humid which made our drinks at the bar taste all the sweeter. After checking into our lodgings, we enjoyed an evening meal in the open walled restaurant where we finished off our daily checklist. The next morning’s outing would come early enough so off to bed in our thankfully, air conditioned rooms.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Green Kingfisher</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Another day and another early morning. This time it was for our third boat trip of the tour: a float up the Rio Frio toward the Everglades-like Lago Caño Negro. More for our checklist included honest-to-goodness real muskovy ducks, russet-naped wood-rail, purple gallinule, limpkin, Neotropic cormorant, white ibis, olive-throated parakeet, crimson-fronted parakeet, barred antshrike, northern barred-woodcreeper, streak-headed wood-creeper, slaty spinetail, bright-rumped atilla, southern rough-winged swallow, scarlet-trumped cacique, gray-headed tanager, and a very satisfying look at sungrebe swimming next to our boat. Unfortunately, a section of river where green-and rufous kingfisher were being reported was blocked by several downed tree limbs. Maybe if we had a small kayak…</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back to the lodge for breakfast and pack up our bags, we bid the humid lowlands farewell as we made our way back up to higher (cooler) elevation. Our first stop was on the outskirts of La Fortuna for lunch followed by a mid-afternoon walk through the maze of trails at an urban park, </span><a href="https://mytanfeet.com/activities/bogarin-trail-la-fortuna-sloth-tour/" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Sendero Bogarin</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. Upon entering the trail system is a small platform with benches for observing several feeders and a small wetland. White-throated crakes made regular visits darting in and out of vegetation and a large family of gray-headed chachalacas feeding several young birds in tow. Collared aracari, great kiskadee, yellow-throated euphonia, bananaquit, buff-throated saltator, graysih saltator and black-headed saltator frequented the feeders, all within a few feet of the observation platform.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Collared Aracari</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Further into the trails we found black-throated wren, stripe-breasted wren, dusky-capped flycatcher, great antshrike and a real crowd pleaser, one of the smallest woodpeckers, a smaller than a warbler, olivaceous piculet.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Darkness fell as we arrived at <a href="https://www.arenalobservatorylodge.com/en/" target="_blank">Arenal Observatory Lodge</a>. Usually we stay in the second story “standard” rooms directly across from the restaurant but on this occasion we were in for a surprise - our rooms were located in the 3-story Observatory Museum building with wonderful views of the gardens behind and the volcano as a backdrop. The front of the building overlooked the spring-fed pool and spa. The only downside, if you could call it that, was that to reach the bar/restaurant required a walk of several hundred yards. But this was a hardy group and we would survive. Drinks in the lounge/bar, dinner, then our daily checklist. By now we were well over 300 bird species!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">room with a view</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">AOL has 870 acres of gardens and tropical forest (7 miles of hiking trails in all). At 6:00 the next morning we gathered outside our rooms to explore some of what the grounds have to offer.. Breakfast wasn’t going to be served for a while so what better way to use our time than go birding? Adding to our bird list we encountered common-tody,flycatcher, cinnamon becard, gray-capped flycatcher, Nightingale wren, stripe-breasted wren, white-breasted wren, song wren, scaly-breasted hummingbird, crowned woodnymph, black-striped Sparrow, buff-rumped warbler, and golden-crowned warbler.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Breakfast was buffet style in the main restaurant. Massive windows overlooked an expansive deck with the volcano as a backdrop. Staff regularly place fresh fruit on suspended feeders just off of the deck that attract a variety of birds resulting in closeup looks plus an opportunity for photographing wildlife. Wandering out onto the deck we found honeycreepers red-legged honeycreeper, green honeycreeper), emerald tanager, golden-hooded tanagerr, scarlet-rumped tanager), black-cheeked woodpecker, golden-olive woodpecker, and the star of the show, acrobatic Montezuma oropendola. In the distance Howler Monkeys made their presence known while coati patrolled the ground beneath feeders for fruits dislodged by the a multitude of birds including great curassow.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Montezuma Oropendula</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The deck also was an opportunity to socialize with other guests. Years ago during our first visit to Arenal, we made the acquaintance of an eager young birder, Christian Campos, who had started working at the lodge as one of their guides. Following our meeting we helped him secure his first pair of binoculars (gratis Eagle Optics). It was reassuring to see he was still employed as we talked briefly and posed for photos.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tom, Christian, Carol</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back out on the trails again for the afternoon we scored a roosting great potoo, violet-headed hummingbird, blue-throated goldentail, rufous motmot, russet antshrike, olivaceous woodcreeper, plain xenops, white-collared Manakin, masked tityra, rufous mourner, band-backed Wren, carmiol’s tanager, bay-headed tanager, and yellow-faced grassquit.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rufous Motmot</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During our walk we encountered a young couple who were new to birding. They had just gotten their copy of Richard’s latest birds of Costa Rica. “Would you like to meet the author?”, we asked. The look on their faces was priceless - and of course Richard signed their field guide.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">a very surprised and pleased birding couple</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Later afternoon we boarded our coaster for a short drive and roadside birding on the Arenal Peninsula Road toward Lake Arenal Dam. For our efforts we were rewarded with swallow-tailed Kite, keel-billed and broad-billed motmots, white-fronted nunbird, fasciated antshrike, bare-crowned, chestnut-backed, and spotted antibirds, scarlet-rumped cacique, and black-headed saltator.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Keel-billed Motmot</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning, another walk around the grounds followed by breakfast before loading up our coaster for our next, and last destination of the tour. As always, though, we rarely race from point A to point B without some stops in between. In this case, a lunch break at <a href="https://www.catarata-del-toro.com/" target="_blank">Catarata del Toro</a>, (Devl’s Waterfall), a privately-owned ecological waterfall project.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The property boasts an impressive waterfall tumbling into an old volcano. With our lunch orders made at the small restaurant, there was time to view the waterfall and birds in the surrounding gardens. A short loop trail through a forest was our main attraction. There is a more strenuous trail leading down to the water’s edge but given that it was A) raining, and B) the waterfall trail would take longer than we had time, the gardens were more than enough.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Black-bellied Hummingbird</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This stop was our best opportunity for seeing black-bellied hummingbird. More hummers included green thorntail, green Hermit, green-crowned brilliant, and coppery-headed emerald all within easy sight of the covered restaurant. In fact bird sightings became such a constant interruption to our meals it’s a wonder anyone actually finished..</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back into lowland birding, <a href="https://tropicalstudies.org/portfolio/la-selva-research-station/" target="_blank">La Selva Research Station</a>, established in 1968, was initially a farm dedicated to sustainable forest research owned by Dr. Leslie Holdridge. Today the station provides key training and research for numerous professional scientists from all over the world. With more than 2,077 species of plants, 125 species of mammals (72 of them bats), 470 species of birds, 48 amphibian species, 87 species of reptiles, 42 species of freshwater fish and tens of thousands of insects, arachnids and other arthropods, it’s little wonder why we like La Selva so much.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Dropping our luggage at cabins now situated some distance from the main facility, there was time to walk the Comandancia de Sarapiqui Road toward the main buildings. As it was still misting/raining umbrellas were in order. Humid conditions on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica, we ticked: slaty-breasted tinamou (heard), orange-chinned parakeet, a real show-stopper - great green macaw, long-tailed tyrant, and white-lined tanager.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">La Selva is first and foremost a research station so our accommodations were not nearly as plush as we had at Arenal. Food is served cafeteria style. The dining hall was filled with students and researchers which offered us the opportunity for learning more about their projects and studies first hand. Because research goes on 24/7 there was always a ready supply of hot coffee although the seating and lighting and noise levels made it hard to do our daily checklists.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Slaty-tailed Trogon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before breakfast the next morning we birded the entrance road to the reserve: short-billed pigeon, white-collared swift, slaty-tailed trogon, great antshrike, cocoa woodcreeper, bright-rumped atilla, black-throated wren, black-cowled oriole, red-throated ant-tanager and even a neotropical migrant: hooded warbler.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pale-billed Woodpecker</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The preserve has several trails, many of them paved. Following breakfast we headed out with one of the local guides: purple-crowned fairy, blue-chested hummingbird, double-toothed kite, pale-billed woodpecker, olive-throated parakeet, wedge-billed woodcreeper, purple-throated fruitcrow, black-headed tody-flycatcher, lesser greenlet, olive-backed euphonia, and white-vented euphonia. By the time we returned to our rooms, gathered our checklists, and returned for our evening meal, it had started to rain again. Placing our orders for a boxed lunch we boarded the coaster for a evening ride back to our rooms.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Jose Alberto Perez - but everyone knows him as "Cope" </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During our stay at La Selva folks discovered a nice gift shop full of T-shirts, books and local art. Some years back at this same gift shop we had purchased an original painting of an Ivory-billed Woodcreeper on a large dried leaf done by “<a href="http://copeartecr.com/" target="_blank">Cope</a>”. He's lived his entire life in real Caribbean lowlands and is a 100% self-taught artist. Now, years later, we were headed to Cope’s home where he had set up a small wildlife viewing area.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Upon arriving, Cope boarded our coaster and directed us down a dirt road where he knew of a couple of day roosts for Crested owl and Spectacled Owl. The trail was a bit muddy from recent rains but we managed. Added bonus was Cope sharing a day roost of diminutive Honduran White Bats that day-roost under banana leaves.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOQq6tuV02BdoMivDreZbZOY-k58tY8UNNOWfpYK5Cr0fdzfk2BaQDGHuw5950pQwyza96wiF3BtyWd0PBIwfteNDbNfMlPgcO0znAIgHjtDIxiAs3M8R0-shQxLnV9h9FMvlc4FOrfZx/s1600/IMG_0462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1491" data-original-width="986" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOQq6tuV02BdoMivDreZbZOY-k58tY8UNNOWfpYK5Cr0fdzfk2BaQDGHuw5950pQwyza96wiF3BtyWd0PBIwfteNDbNfMlPgcO0znAIgHjtDIxiAs3M8R0-shQxLnV9h9FMvlc4FOrfZx/s320/IMG_0462.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Spectacled Owl</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6lFAHfeRR06sa9lWXMH3gNId-yj9rXYuupYHIn5-Bez1aZ3SQJbMlRoQ6thuQnrUlSX97jWagohIXT7vnSSF6w9NK1m7GNp9H_uT4rWtWEtschWDXZAHzlKtSYHMAYUw7bDiiVNlenDs/s1600/IMG_5211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6lFAHfeRR06sa9lWXMH3gNId-yj9rXYuupYHIn5-Bez1aZ3SQJbMlRoQ6thuQnrUlSX97jWagohIXT7vnSSF6w9NK1m7GNp9H_uT4rWtWEtschWDXZAHzlKtSYHMAYUw7bDiiVNlenDs/s320/IMG_5211.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Honduran White Bat day roosting</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Returning to Cope’s home we bunched up alongside a small wetland stream eating our boxed food from La Selva: russet-naped wood-rail practically within arm’s reach. Green-breasted mango, bronze-tailed plumeleteer, long-billed hermit, and black-crowned antshrike.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">White-necked Jacobin</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This, our last full day of birding and we were making the most of it. One last stop on our way back to San Jose lat a small roadside restaurant. Years ago, on one of our first Costa Rica tours, we’d stopped in this small village of Cinchona. A few years after our stop, an earthquake and subsequent landslide, all but destroyed the village. We were happy to find the small roadside restaurant - Mirador La Cascada - had rebuilt. In addition to offering food, they had a collection of tables and chairs on a small deck surrounded by platform feeders and hummingbird feeders. Easy up close views of violet sabrewing, common chlorospingus, white-naped brushfinch, scarlet-thighed dacnis and a whole host of tanagers. A buff-fronted quail-dove lurking below the feeders provided extra excitement.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finally, back at the Hotel Buena Vista where our tour had begun, there was time to unwind, finish packing and of course, a little more birding - or even a dip in the pool. We gathered once more at the bar for one last Margarita (or two) before our farewell dinner with one last chance for Richard to autograph field guides.</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Our time had passed so quickly! Dinner finished, top favorite birds of tour in the record book, a group photo and it was time to say farewell.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">L-R: Tom, John, Connie, Russell, Carol, Richard, Risé, Betty, Cici, Marge, JoAnne</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning those returning to the states did so. Carol and I and the Bruders would be staying for the second tour which began in a few day’s time. Stayed tuned for Tour 2!</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-71226901342895361782019-01-08T10:10:00.002-08:002019-01-08T14:24:42.652-08:00Thailand 2018: Part 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day sixteen, Feb 17. Our flight from Chiang Rai to Bangkok went off without a hitch. We checked into the <a href="https://amaranthhotel.com/" target="_blank">Amaranth Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel</a> with time enough to freshen up before the group’s farewell evening dinner. Everyone except Rick and Janice gathered in the dining area. They were out collecting custom made clothes ordered from a tailor when they arrived in Thailand prior to the start of the main tour. They eventually joined the group late just in time to share their top 5 birds. They, along with José, and Greg, had opted out of the tour extension and were heading home the next morning.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Carol’s broken wrist remained frustrating for numerous reasons but adding insult to injury, the focus wheel on her bins had started acting up. The fix was to swap with Tom’s identical pair since Tom had two good hands for holding his bins and better equipped to deal with a fussy focus wheel. Using binoculars with only one hand is not easy, but at least a sticking focus wheel would no longer be an issue.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day seventeen. The remaining members of the tour reconvened for a leisurely breakfast where we were joined by a local bird guru, Wichyanan “Jay” Limparungpatthanakij. He graduated with a Master’s Degree in Biology from Bangkok’s Mahidol University, focusing on the ecology of avian mixed-species foraging flocks. He is a member of the BCST Records Committee and an eBird reviewer for Thailand, is involved in a number of ornithological and ecological research projects in Thailand, and a freelance guide specializing in bird tours. He's also an active volunteer for conservation NGOs.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It turned out that Jay had spent a year as a high school foreign exchange student in southeast Wisconsin. Not only was Jay’s English impeccable, but he was familiar with many locations in Wisconsin! At the time we met Jay we had no idea he is the co-author of the newest “<a href="https://www.lynxeds.com/product/birds-thailand-0" target="_blank">Birds of Thailand</a>” field guide.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By late morning we were in the air on our a two-hour flight to Krabi, a bustling tourist city in the heart of Southern Thailand’s Sundaic forest habitat. New landscapes, cuisine, and of course birds awaited. As we deplaned it was duly noted that we had traded Thailand’s cool northern climate for hot humid conditions. Emphasis on humid.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After checking into our lodgings at the <a href="http://greenhousehotel.com/" target="_blank">Green House Hotel</a> and dropping our bags, we boarded long boards to cruise the Krabi River and associated labyrinth of the Krabi mangroves. Our boatmen’s keen ears and eyes picked up numerous birds lurking in the mangroves, often stopping and drawing near to try and bring birds into the open. During one attempt, he found a resting Mangrove Viper. Our daily list grew with Ashy Tailorbirds, Ruddy Kingfishers, Korean Flycatchers, and Sakhalin Leaf Warbler. Rufous-bellied Swallows and massive Brown-winged Kingfishers.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One highly sought after trip bird was Mangrove Pitta. True to form, as with pittas everywhere we’ve encountered them, they tend to make loud calls but throwing their voices with the art of a ventriloquist. After several failed attempts to draw one out, and with the afternoon waning, we vowed try again the next day. For now, our appetites were driving us to return to Krabi’s popular waterfront district, bursting with shops and restaurants. Jay suggested a floating restaurant which as it turned out, due to low tide, was more of a leaning restaurant. But the food was delicious.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning we headed back to explore the mangroves, this time on land via the Mangrove Forest Walkway, a wooden boardwalk several feet above the water line. This was when we marveled at Jay’s amazing warbler ID capabilities as he sussed out several warbler species, each looking the same as the last. Eventually we heard not one but two Mangrove Pitta persistently. They seemed seemed tantalizingly close while at the same time, far away. We spent an inordinate amount of time pacing back and forth along the boardwalk peering into dense tangles of of mangrove roots. As we paced, we met a couple of foreign birders trying to track down the pittas. One of the birders, despite several trips to Thailand. If anything he was more keen to find one than us.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finally, we caught sight of a pitta. Well, some of us did. The bird was barely visible through a tiny window of mangrove tangle but the placement of the scope was raised to such a high position that it was impossible for some to view the bird. A bit of creative scrounging produced enough wood to assemble a makeshift step stool. In the end, everyone got to see the pitta, thank goodness!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Leaving Krabi behind we drove to the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Morakot-resort-krabi-Thailand-780456065377083/" target="_blank">Morakot Resort</a> in our luxurious leather appointed rental van replete with rear seat video screens. In spite of the intense afternoon heat, the group was eager to keep birding so after we checked in and dropped our bags, we were off to explore part of Khao Pra Bang Khram, better known as <a href="http://www.thaibirding.com/locations/south/knc.htm" target="_blank">Khao Nor Chu Chi</a>, a 183 square kilometer sanctuary. There are many trails, some in an overgrown state providing opportunities for both forest edge species and birds of the forest interior. Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, Little and Purple-naped Spiderhunters and Whiskered Treeswift, Silver-rumped Spinetails, and Banded Woodpecker.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Following dinner at the resort, we ventured out that evening for a bit of owling. In no time at all we had our flashlights focused on a Brown Wood Owl that continued to escort us up and down the road, hooting all the way.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Not unlike birding in the heat of the desert southwest, the best time to bird in tropic heat it is early morning and late afternoon when birds tend to be more active. Walking a small narrow road we added Scaly-crowned, Chestnut-winged and Ferruginous Babblers plus a variety of new bubuls and a Gray-and-buff Woodpecker.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Veering off onto a side-track we picked up a stunning Van Hasselt’s Sunbird plus more warblers and flowerpeckers. The location of a Green Broadbill, with its distinctive rising yodeling, had us puzzled until we pinpointed it high in the foliage above. Always tricky to find a brilliant green bird in brilliant green surroundings.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wisely choosing to take a break in the mid-day heat following lunch at the resort, some took naps while others photographed birds coming to resort feeders but by mid-afternoon we were antsy to get back into the forest. A different section presented us with another ‘pocket bird’: Rufous Piculet. A Rufous-tailed Tailorbird taxed our binocular skills as it darted in and out of sight before we added the last drongo species needed for a drongo slam - Crow-billed Drongo. Another broadbill was heard calling back and forth with another broadbill. Unlike the Green Broadbill, this Black-and-Yellow Broadbill was decked out with an array of yellow and pink feathers contrasted with an outrageous sky-blue bill. No better time than to retire to the resort and celebrate with some cold drinks.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning, Tom was physically feeling out of sorts. While he went so far as to accompany the group, he stayed in the van while the rest of the group went forth to collect Buff-rumped Woodpecker, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Raffle’s Malkoha and a Black-and-Yellow Broadbill, the last of the birds found at Khao Nor Chi Chi.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Packing up our bags we lit out for the last lodge on the extension, <a href="http://www.yeosersbeachresort.com/" target="_blank">Yoeser Beach Resort,</a> located across the peninsula on the shore of the Gulf of Thailand. Tom still wasn’t feeling a whole lot better and again elected to stay behind, along with Carol, while the rest of the group headed directly to Krung Ching, part of the Khao Luang National Park complex.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day twenty-one, February 22. Tom, now very devoid of energy, missed the final full day of birding in the forests of Krung Ching. Carol was so concerned she spoke with the lodge owner, a Canadian, who had started the resort some years earlier with his Canadian born Thai wife (who sadly had succumbed to cancer a few years earlier). He suggested that Tom’s lack of energy was due to dehydration and that a visit to a local hospital was in order. He graciously drove us to a local hospital where we wound up spending the afternoon.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tom was put on a saline drip lasting about two and a half hours while a blood workup was performed. Sure enough, he had a viral infection which had knocked him for a loop. With prescribed medication and cautioned to drink lots of liquids, we returned to the resort for more rest. Cost of the visit? A staggering $25 cash.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While we were now registered in three Thai hospitals - what a sorry lot we were - the group had been busy collecting more new birds. Banded Broadbill, Yellow-eared and Gray-breasted Spiderhunters, Golden-whiskered Barbets, Scaly-breasted Bulbuls and Sooty Barbets.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In fact, as Phil put it, the afternoon was “likely the most rewarding of our entire visit to Southern Thailand”. The list included Square-tailed Drongo Cuckoos, Violet Cucukoo, Black Hornbill, Rufous-winged and Maroon-breasted Philentomas, Black-throated babblers, and Fluffy-backed Tit-Babblers. Red-beared Bee-eater and Scarlet-rumped Trogon.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rounding out the day they ticked Spectacled Spiderhunter, Green Iora, Red-billed Malkoha, Dusky Broadbills and one final bird for the day, Buffy Fish-Owl. About the only thing the group got that we didn’t mind missing was the first and only encounter with leeches for the whole trip. And the leech socks several had purchased for the trip did not stop the leeches (which Tom knew from his experiences with leeches in Vietnam).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The last day of the extension began with the group lounging about the resort, walking the beach, swimming in the resort’s pool, and organizing belongings for our eventual return to the states the next day. Unfortunately, our flight from Krabi back to Bangkok didn’t get in until late which put a crimp into the group gathering for one last farewell dinner. Just as well since everyone was pretty knackered plus both our guides were already prepping for their next Thailand tours which were to begin in less than 36 hours.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Epilogue: After Carol had broken her wrist we had been anxious to setup an appointment with an orthopedic surgeon in Tucson. An email exchange with friend Nancy Novak in Tucson resulted in an appointment. Two days after our return, Carol met with the surgeon. Then two days after that she had her surgery in late February. By late November, the hardware the surgeon had implanted to facilitate the healing process was removed. The binoculars with the focus wheel issue were sent into Nikon. Nikon’s lifetime warranty resulted in a new pair of binoculars to replace the old pair. If only fixing her wrist had been so simple.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While we missed some stellar birds on the last few days, our life bird total still exceeded well over 450 species while adding a number of new bird families, all the while enjoying a kaleidoscope of landscapes and tastebud challenging cuisine. Yet another memorable Tropical Birding tour. Hats off to our guides Laurie Ross and Phil Chaon (who has since joined the regular guide staff at TB), and “Thai Jay” who made IDing warblers in the peninsular look so easy.</span></span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-66684115861665522762019-01-06T13:15:00.003-08:002019-01-06T15:05:40.624-08:00Thailand 2018: Part 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day nine. We awoke before first light to the sounds of Spotted Owlet and Brown Boobook calling from trees on the grounds of the <a href="http://www.inthanonhighlandresort.com/" target="_blank">Inthanon Highland Resort</a>. Brekky while still dark, then boarded our vans to reach the upper elevations of <a href="https://www.thainationalparks.com/doi-inthanon-national-park" target="_blank">Doi Inthanon National Park</a> just before sunrise.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Suitably layered up against cold crisp air, we arrived not too far below the park’s summit and began scouring the northern montane forest habitat for flocks of birds. A few flocks finally appeared, momentarily curtailing talk of hot coffee and tea. Mountain and Striated Bulbul, Speckled and Ashy Wood-pigeon. Sprightly Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail, Golden-throated Barbet and a very vivid blue Vivid Nitava that shone extra brightly in the morning sun. Before reloading our vans to head to the summit we added several “yellow-themed” birds: Yellow-cheeked Tit, Yellow-browed Tit, and Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">can't go birding without some go-juice!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At the summit we honed in on caffeine from a small coffee shop with an immense menu of hot drinks. High elevation sunbirds bounced through the foliage - Gould’s and Green-tailed. A Blue Whistling-Thrush was found behind the men’s restroom (never leave your binoculars too far away, even when peeing).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tearing ourselves away from the coffee stand, we descended a path into a mossy forest via a boardwalk. Skulking in the understory we found Ashy-throated Warbler, Chestnut-tailed Munia, Japanese White-eye, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Dark-sided Thrush, and White-browed Shortwing. Snowy-browed Flycatchers bobbed along the boardwalk’s handrails reminding us of our water-thrushes in the U.S..</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">lunch at Mr. Deang's where we were encouraged to sample everything </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A very memorable break for lunch at Mr. Deaang’s Shop where we were introduced to more northern Thai cuisine and friendliness. Also not too shabby birding as we sat and ate, watching the feeders adjacent to the cafe’s patio. We all agreed that on our next day back on the mountain, we must include a revisit to sample more of Mr. Deang’s menu.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fortified with food, and with warming temperatures, we resumed our mountain birding with gusto. More large flocks with better looks at birds we’d seen earlier plus Black-eared and Clicking Shrike-Babbler, Blue-winged Minia, Hume’s Treecreeper, and stunning Silver-eared Mesia.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A particular target bird was the White-capped Redstart. It inhabits swift streams and happily, our guides knew just where to look - a waterfall in a less travelled part of the park. Rounding out the day we stopped at the “Inthanon Birds Centre” run by a Mr. Deang (is everyone named Mr. Deang?). The draw to this birding center was that it’s a reliable spot to pickup Blossom-headed Parakeet.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Blossom-headed Parakeet at Mr. Deang's Bird Sanctuary</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Climbing a wooden observation tower, we soon encountered our target birds, feeding and preening in the late afternoon sun. While signing into the guest log, we happened to see that Wisconsin friends, Bill and Connie Volkert, had visited the tower in 2015. You’ll recall from our Colombia blog report that we have a funny way of running into Bill and Connie in out of the way places.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Returning to the resort we noticed a large tour bus in the parking lot with several what appeared to be cyclists milling about. Was this part of an organized bike tour? No matter. Time for relaxing with adult beverages before being treated to another fantastic meal followed by searching for owls that some of the group had missed during the pre-dawn hours.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thai cyclists prepping for the climb</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day ten, February 11. We were met with some disconcerting news. The road to the summit of the park where we had birded the day before was to be closed until noon for a special cycling event, the annual bike tour to the summit. That would explain the bus load of Thai cyclists who, when we arrived for our pre-dawn breakfast, were assembling to embark on their ride up Thailand’s highest peak. Thank goodness we had chosen to do the higher elevation the day before! Unable to return to the summit or any other portion of the park until the afternoon, what to do in the meantime? Plan B it is.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Plan B</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Plan B was to drive through a patchwork of small farms, mango orchards and woodlands, surrounding the resort, then stopping at various locations to walk and bird.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pied and Gray Bushchat, Gray-capped Pygmy-Woodpecker (reminded us of a smaller version of our Arizona Woodpecker), and Crested Treeswift. Some had a distant glimpse of Red-billed Blue-Magpie. A raucous inquisitive flock of Eurasian Jays stopped to check us out. More birds revealed themselves as the day warmed. Working clusters of flowers in a large flame tree were: Black Drongo, Great and Common Myna, Chestnut-tailed Starling, and finally, a pair of Rufous Treepies.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">you can't see the birds?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Following lunch at the resort (sadly, we were unable to get back to Mr. Deang’s), we reentered the park amidst thousands of cyclists descending the park’s main road. But at least the road was now reopened as we made our way into mid-elevation habitat. Rufous-backed Sibia, Marten’s Warbler (oooh, but the warblers in this part of the world are tough to ID), Bronzed Drongo, and Chestnut-vented Nuthatch posing and posturing in true nuthatch fashion.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">requisite group photo in front of waterfall</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Another waterfall, this time a bit more touristy but which also had a small snack bar with more coffee and pastry options. And another target bird that frequents fast moving water - Plumbeous Redstart. Tiny birds but finally found a few flitting in the shadows, hopping from rock to rock.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">shopping and Carol's new iPad carrier/purse</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We stopped for a brief bit of roadside shopping during which time some of us had a chance to chat with a few of the cyclists. Most impressive mix of men and women anxious to chat with Americans. One rider in particular had garnered first place in his age group on the 2,474 meter climb to the top.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">nightjar stakeout </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Not wanting to waste what daylight we had left, we first made a quick stop to pick up some snacks and beverages, then drove to a spot on the shore of a lake to watch the sunset and await awakening nightjars. To our astonishment, we garnered three species in short order: Large-tailed, Savannah, and Indian, all hawking insects over the water and landing on the road just feet away.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day eleven. A longer driving day. With breakfast under our belt and with packed bags loaded aboard our vans, we departed the resort, heading further north in search of our first target bird of the day. Unfortunately, owing to the fact that the site where we would have looked was busy with vehicle traffic we missed it. The somewhat reclusive and shy Black-backed Forktail most likely was in hiding. Instead we drove further up a dusty, winding road, also busy with construction trucks. Putting up with the dust, we stood alongside the road, instructed to watch a small cavity in a bare tree limb without a clues promised</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> as to what we were waiting to see. Finally, something started to emerge. First one, then two more. Eventually a family of seven Collared Falconets clustered on the bare branches. Barely the size of a large sparrow, these diminutive members of the falcon family feed mainly on butterflies. What a treat to observe them hunting, preening, and even a brief courtship display! </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before descending back to the main highway, we found our second target bird, a pair of Black-headed Woodpeckers.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Collared Falconets; Black-headed Woodpecker</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By mid-afternoon we arrived at </span><a href="http://maleenature.com/" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Malee’s Nature Bungalo</a><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> just outside Chiang Dao. Mallee and her husband are ardent collectors of orchids which graced the grounds. Given the longer ride and heat of the afternoon, some of the group opted for a brief nap (or bird the grounds and photograph orchids) before we set out to explore nearby rice paddy fields. Common Buzzard, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Greenish Warbler, Black-collared Starlings, Crimson Sunbird and a surprise flock of Gray-heaed Lapwings. Rounding out the paddy tour were a pair of Pin-tailed Snipe. Because Mallee’s does not serve meals, we took our evening meal at a nearby restaurant (the desserts were superb!).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">birding Doi Chang Dao NP</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day twelve. Once more foregoing our vans for 4WD pickup trucks as we had earlier in the tour, we began a pre-dawn chilly, bumpy and bone-jarring (at least for those of us in the beds of the pickups) journey up the pine covered slopes of </span><a href="http://www.thaibirding.com/locations/north/dcd.htm" style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Doi Chiang Dao National Park</a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. Mercifully, we reached a grove of pines where we disembarked to stretch and start seeking some new birds. As the sky brightened we found Velvet-fronted and Chestnut-vented Nuthatch high up in dead limbs (felt like we were getting ‘warbler’ neck). Gray-capped and Stripe-breasted Woodpecker joined the fray but eventually the star of the show appeared: Giant Nuthatch. This was one giant nuthatch, easily over twice the size of our White-breasted Nuthatch. Following up the nuthatch sightings we scored a Large Cuckooshrike and a stunning red and royal blue Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back aboard the trucks (oh, my, a short step stool would have been helpful!) we arrived at the end of the road where in a large clearing we ate our boxed breakfast, keeping an eye on surrounding pine habitat. From our vantage point we added Sooty-headed, Flavescent, Black, and Mountain Bulbul, Japanese Tit, and Slender-billed Oriole. Working the edge of the clearing was a Gray-backed Shrike as Maroon Orioles flew overhead.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From the clearing edge we lit out on the summit trail. Overhead, Cook’s Swifts soared. Orange-bellied Leafbirds and a chance encounter with an Oriental Turtle Dove plus more sightings of birds we’d seen earlier.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back at the clearing we climbed into the trucks for our decent off the mountain, stopping occasionally along the road to walk/bird our way down. Yunnan Fulvetta (don’t you just love some of these bird names?), Striated Yuhina, Gray-throated Babbler, and a “pocket bird”, a bird so cute you want to scoop it up and put it in your pocket to take home: a Speckled Piculet, the smallest of the woodpecker family.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">makeshift sling; Carol, Mallee, José atChiang Dao hospital</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was right after our piculet sighting misfortune struck. Carol lost her footing on a slopped gravel road. When she tried to break her fall with her hand, that's when her wrist gave way. At best it was fractured. At worst, it was broken. Carol spent the rest of the descent with a makeshift sling until we reach Mallee’s.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In order to determine the scope of damage, Mallee, insisted we pay a visit to the local Chiang Dao public hospital. She bundled us into her personal car along with one of our tour group members, Jose Padilla-Lopez, a pediatrician from Fort Meyers, FL.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once inside the hospital Mallee was a bulldog, whisking us through registration and getting staff ramped up for an X-ray. Once the X-ray was taken, a physician pronounced that it was in indeed broken; that we should visit an orthopedic doctor in Chiang Mai. Mallee phoned the hospital to find out if an ortho doc would be available. Yes, one would be there until 7:30 that evening. Mallee then called for a taxi, instructed the driver where to take us, and that he should wait to return us to the resort.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cost of the X-ray and consultation at the Chiang Dao public hospital? Just over $12. Imagine what it would have cost in the United States? Soon we were on our way to Chiang Mai with a taxi driver who spoke just a few words of English.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The private <a href="https://www.medicaldepartures.com/clinic/chiangmai-ram-hospital-medical/" target="_blank">Chaing Mai hospital (RAM)</a>, an hour and a half away, was incredible. Bright, clean and ever so efficient. It felt like a five star hotel. We were immediately ushered to reception. After showing Carol's passport, filling out a short form, and having her photo taken, we were ushered to the ortho desk and adjoining waiting room. Ten minutes later we were taken to an exam room where her vitals were taken while she answered a few basic questions about her fall. Lots of face grimaces and the word “Ouch” which seems to be an internationally understood term. Alas, our mastery of the Thai language was pretty non-existent. Fortunately, most everyone in the hospital spoke passable English.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We hardly had a chance to return to our seats in the waiting area before being whisked into a consultation room to meet with an orthopedic surgeon, who, it turned out, had spent a year of residency at Mass General in Boston.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The doc confirmed that Carol's radius was definitely broken and would require surgery. How soon was it needed? Would we be able to stay in Thailand to finish the tour? He explained that she had about a two week window of time before surgery. Any further delay might prove problematic. Since we had just under two weeks left in our tour, we could stay if she wished. He applied a large soft but stiff cast to immobilize and restrict movement, limiting</span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> motion of her wrist and fingers. He made her promise not to fall again (really!?). </span><span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">He also wrote a prescription for ice packs, pain and anti-inflammatory medications, and provided a letter stating she was capable of flying aboard a commercial airline, something we would need to prove in order to leave Thailand. </span></span><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Very friendly and professional staff all the way around. </span></span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Over to the pharmacy area to collect her prescriptions, ice packs and pay our bill. </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our cost?</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">$150 paid with a credit card. Fast and painless. Well, except for Carol’s broken wrist.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As promised, our taxi driver was waiting outside to begin our ride back to the resort. By now it was early evening and we’d missed any chance of eating with the group wherever they had eaten. Using rudimentary sign language (scooping imaginary food into his mouth) he wanted to know if we were hungry. Mallee had said the driver had been driving the same route for almost thirty years so he knew just where to stop. The problem was reading a menu but soon enough, via a three-way phone conversation with us, the driver and Mallee, and the cook, we enjoyed a tasty large bowl of soup. Our happy-go-lucky driver even serenaded us with Thai songs during our return journey.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back at Mallee’s we informed our guides of what had transpired at the RAM hospital. Tropical Birding staff in Quito had already been informed and offered us some options. One was to stay and finish the tour or two, take a flight back to Bangkok and rebook our return flight to the states. The latter proved to be far too expensive and besides, with the doc’s blessings to continue the tour, we had opted to stay realizing that the remainder of Carol’s tour was going to be challenging and somewhat limited.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">group photo at Mallee's; Mallee and Carol</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning we bid Mallee farewell, thanking her profusely for all her help with Carol’s medical emergency. Upon reflection, had this accident happened most anywhere else during our tour, we would have been hard pressed to receive such prompt care. It was amazing that our trip to two hospitals and subsequent medical care in the span of just one afternoon had not not inconvenienced the rest of the group in the least (aside from their concern for Carol’s welfare).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Not far from Mallee's was <a href="http://offbeatexplorers.com/wat-tham-pha-plong-chiang-dao/" target="_blank">Wat Tham Pha Plong</a>, a forest temple sitting atop a mountain northwest of Chang Dao on the way to Fang. While we were visiting hospitals, our group had taken the previous afternoon to visit the same temple but were happy to return.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The walk to the temple - 510 steps - was daunting, but with many places to stop and contemplate countless panels with Buddhist wisdom and advice, the effort was easier. House Swifts, Black-throated Sunbird, Buff-breasted Babbler and Striped Wren-Babbler were a few of the species we encountered. And the view from the top was spectacular.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back in the vans we negotiated a series of intricate switchbacks and impossibly steep slopes of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doi_Ang_Khang" target="_blank">Doi Ang Khang</a> (our Thai driver was not impressed). We arrived at the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Angkhang.Nature.Resort/" target="_blank">Ang Khang Nature Resort</a> in time for lunch which we enjoyed seated on a picturesque balcony. More northern Thai specialty dishes to match our northern Thai specialty birds. This was Carol’s first experience eating a full meal one-handed. It was clear it was going to be a learning curve but she proved to be up to the task. If there was a silver lining, it was that her non-dominant hand was the one out of commission.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Myanmar border outpost</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Post-lunch we saddled up and headed to a few well known hides in a small hill tribe mountain village. As we pulled into a parking area, we were immediately admonished by very rough looking Thai soldier who demanded we get back in our vehicles and leave at once. Taken aback but not wanting to start an internationally incident, plus judging from his gruff demeanor, we complied. As we drove away we noticed several members of the Thai military in formation so there must have been a special event taking place that warranted our not being there. Sure enough, as we drove away, we encountered a small convoy of black SUVs. Later we learned it was the crown prince’s wife, Princess Srirasm Suwadi, who was visiting the area. Update: As of December 2018, the princess, the crown prince’s third wife, was stripped of her title and thrown out of the royal family. Apparently this has been common practice by the crown prince as he had done the same with his second wife. It’s reported that the crown prince, who has a reputation of being a philanderer, already has a child with his current mistress who may become his fourth wife. A regular Peyton Place. The crown prince has now ascended to the throne as his father, a much beloved ruler, passed away. The new king apparently has the reputation of being a reckless playboy and isn’t nearly as popular as his father.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So, another Plan B diversion was required. We headed to a small lodge to use a viewing area well known by Thai photographers. In fact, it was during a good part of the rest of our main tour in northern Thailand that we came to understand and appreciate several viewing areas used by Thai photographers. Here we found Eye-browed and Black-breasted Thrush, Sooty-headed Bulbul, and Brown-breasted Bulbul. Moving to a nearby waterfall we added brilliant White-capped Redstart and Daurian Redstart.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Attempting to reach a small patch of bamboo at the Doi Ang Khang Royal Projects (a formal garden) we again encountered another road block. We were informed by the head of security that the princess was in a nearby residence “resting”. Fortunately we did not appear to pose a threat and were allowed entry to the bamboo area where we found White-tailed Robin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Knowing the princess was now not at the first site where we had been unable to visit, we returned and had no problem parking as the military was now absent. Decorations still adorned the area including a raised throne and evidence that the princess had been seated at another location overlooking a distant outpost in Myanmar (formerly Burma). Yellow-streaked Warbler and Long-tailed Shrike plus views of the Miramar border.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Princess Carol; Luke Seitz</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Returning to the lodge for another wonderful Thai meal, we happened to run into <a href="https://wingsbirds.com/leaders/luke-seitz/" target="_blank">Luke Seitz</a> who was co-leading a Wings tour with Jon Dunn. We first met Luke when he arrived as our volunteer host replacement at Tandayapa Lodge in Ecuador. Luke has since graduated from Cornell University and is working in the Cornell Lab of Ornithology.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By now Carol was becoming more accustomed to eating with one hand but required assistance showering and dressing. Even more challenging was when we were on the road and using restroom facilities. Typically, bathrooms were devoid of toilet paper and worse, lacked conventional toilets. She was relegated to using only a hole in the floor referred to as a “squatter”. Tough enough with two working arms. Fortunately, a favorite stop was at 7-Eleven stores which were all over Thailand. These had “squatters” but many also had a handicapped bathroom with a conventional toilet. A life saver! She still needed assistance buttoning her pants but at least she didn’t have to make like a tripod over a squatter.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our next day we again birded Doi Ang Khang but rather than focusing on hides, we opted to find mixed flocks. Arriving at a small checkpoint at the Myanmar-Thai border, we strode through the checkpoint, apparently no passport needed. No new birds except we did bulk up our Myanmar country list with six species. In Myanmar for less than a half hour before walking back to Thailand where we posed for photos with a very friendly Thai guard on duty.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Birding Do Ang Khang; Ultramarine Flycatche</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We ventured down another road toward a large campsite where we picked up Silver-eared Laughingthrush, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler and Spectacled Barwings. An annoyingly loud bird, Scarlet-faced Liocicha, proved to be nearly impossible to find. Eventually everyone did get looks, albeit short ones, as it flitted in and out of dense tangles of understory. We even found a little time for poking around the shops in the hill tribe's village.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Having scarfed up all the immediately available target birds we motored on to the town of Fang. With a half day of birding remaining, we dropped our bags at our hotel then stocked up on provisions for next day boxed breakfasts and lunches at a Fang open-air market. Back in our vans, we headed up a steep and winding road to explore some of the more notable Thai photographer hides in dry pine forest.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thai photographers have used these hides so often - baiting hides with meal worms - that birds anticipate their arrival whenever they hear a vehicle. Such was the case at one site where we had no more than stopped when a very impatient Ultramarine Flycatcher flew in with expectations of a hand out. Neither the bird nor us were disappointed!</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rufous-bellied Nitava (top); Spot-breasted Parrotbill</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Further down the road we stopped at a second feeding station where a steady stream of birds provided us with eye-popping views. White-gorgeted Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Nitava, and Greater Yellownape. Another nearby site a short walk away revealed Himalayan Bluetail, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, White-bellied Redstart and an exceptionally cooperative Spot-breasted Parrotbill that sat up and vocalized for several minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our final roadside stop produced what initially appeared to be a rather unremarkable bird until it turned to face us, exposing its brilliant ruby throat: an aptly named Siberian Rubythroat.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We retraced our route back to Fang and our spartan but clean accommodations at the <a href="https://www.hotels.com/ho601059/khunyuw-hotel-fang-thailand/" target="_blank">Khunyuw Hotel</a>. An evening out at a local restaurant and we were more than ready for bed knowing that our departure time in the morning would be well before dawn.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Quite unexpectedly, the hotel had laid out a smattering of fresh fruit and hot water for instant coffee as we brought our bags to the lobby to be loaded onto our vans. If our Thai driver Som Sok had any reservations concerning steep mountain roads before, he was now fretting about his fully loaded van with most of our luggage. Would he have enough power to motor up the mountain?</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Hulme's Pheasant</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We absolutely needed to be at a specific site before sunrise. It’s a location well known for a chance to see our target bird, a bird the Wings tour had missed the day before. It’s also a location where Thai photographers set up blinds in the middle of the road making it impossible to pass. However, luck was with us as we arrived on time, the road completely devoid of any traffic. We positioned the vans crossways in the road, opening the van’s sliding doors turning our vehicles into makeshift hides. We remained inside (on comfortable seats) as our guides scattered the requisite meal worms across the road. And then we waited. And waited.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As first light reached the road, two large shapes emerged from the shadows. In a whispered voice, our guides said, “They’re coming!”. Indeed, our target birds were coming into view, a male and female Hume’s Pheasant, one of THE most sought after bird species in Thailand. At this point we were happy to catch any glimpse at all. But as the sun rose higher, the birds approached closer and closer, giving us all excellent looks. At one point I was able to exit our van along with Som Sok who by this time was just as excited to see these birds as the rest of us. At one point the male displayed several times, raising up, beating its wings and tail. Another male suddenly burst out of the understory and flew directly over us. More than we could have ever hoped to see!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As the stars of the show continued to scarf up mealworms, there were bonus sightings of other birds taking advantage of the free handout. Little Pied Flycatcher, Crested Finchbill, and Black-throated Tit. Eventually the pheasants moved back into the understory and we moved on to revisit a couple of the sites we had stopped at the day before. A few other feeding stations produced more new birds: Crested Bunting, and an Aberrant Bush Warbler.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We opted to have our box lunch at the Ultramarine Flycatcher site. And yes, the bird instantly reappeared just as we stopped, rewarded with another mealworm handout.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our drive to the luxurious <a href="http://maekok-river-village-resort.com/" target="_blank">Maekok River Resort</a> didn’t take long at all. Arriving in the heat of the day, most of the group chose to relax in the resort's opulent surroundings, some electing to have a Thai massage ($10/hour - ridiculous!). Even Carol managed to make herself comfortable enough on our bed for an in room massage.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Small Praticole</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Realizing that this would be our the last full day of birding during the main tour, several of us opted to partake in a short drive to the Tha Ton rice paddies. Navigating a confusing maze of narrow farm roads didn’t produce much new until we reached an overlook of the Maekok River. Scanning the shore we found a tiny tern-like bird, Small Pratincole. Members of the shorebird family, this was another one that qualified as a “pocket bird”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Retracing our route through the paddies we came across the critically endangered Yellow-breasted Bunting, a small flock that had made its way from Northern China to South-East Asia for the winter. Very fortunate to have stumbled across these not usually seen birds on any Thailand tour.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Our final morning of the main tour. Heading toward Chiang Rai we witnessed a misty sunrise over the Mekong River. Gazing across into Laos, smitten with the scenery, we almost missed Gray-throated Martins. A stop at Nong Bong Khai to intake our boxed breakfasts followed by a leisurely stroll along a boardwalk in search of waterbirds. Several by now familiar species were observed plus we added White-browed and Ruddy-breasted Crake. Both jumped up briefly from dense marsh habitat. After more lapwings, kingfishers and swamphens, we eventually spotted Lesser Whistling Ducks and enjoyed looks - </span>albeit<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> distant looks - at Spot-billed and Ferruginous Ducks as well as Ruddy Shelducks. Even a couple of familiar species: Northern Pintail and Northern Shoveler. Hey. Country bird ticks, right?</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Keenly aware of the need to get to our plane at Chiang Rai airport for our flight to Bangkok, we had just enough time for one more stop where we added a pair of very secretive Baikal Bush Warblers. We bid our farewell to our loyal driver Som Sok who, we suspect, had never </span>chauffeured<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> a group of birders around before. Maybe his experience with the Hume’s Pheasant has made him a convert? Probably not. We can only hope.</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Red-whiskered Bulbul</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our Northern Thailand van driver Som Sok</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-breasted Thrush</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2evyvad6_gNXzKEREk3lHakvWieX3hq1R-JhDhDbZ6edckU-7gIQaFzSavSfWBxsGzeN3NZO6VwgFDfXF4uh3OLG1ZYMym4pW7B8a4UDf80OVJoFpwPW7R3cju0Ba9qA0dtdpz0kMDmim/s1600/White-gorgeted+Flycatcher+Anthipes+monileger5984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="1200" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2evyvad6_gNXzKEREk3lHakvWieX3hq1R-JhDhDbZ6edckU-7gIQaFzSavSfWBxsGzeN3NZO6VwgFDfXF4uh3OLG1ZYMym4pW7B8a4UDf80OVJoFpwPW7R3cju0Ba9qA0dtdpz0kMDmim/s320/White-gorgeted+Flycatcher+Anthipes+monileger5984.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-gorgeted Flycatcher</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Siberian Rubythroat</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Ringed Plover</td></tr>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-25967578537394951722018-10-02T16:27:00.000-07:002018-10-03T10:55:01.322-07:00Thailand 2018: Part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Day one of the main tour. Topped off with breakfast and caffeine, our first order of business was a stop at the a vestige of mangrove forest to walk a raised concrete dike through the Mahachai Mangroves in search of Golden-bellied Gerygone, which, while very vocal, didn't make an appearance for most of the group. However, a very cooperative Brahminy Kite was a crowd pleaser.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRjWCYa0E45B5eQ1Oua4mb9abKNBi7Vzl348n0HBMt3imZ5VK2KfePQaDPd34J14ct9oOFu1lIa5QpGhLSHcMdgd23-k431e-xY8KRVbEh5SdK8EMkFGUUTqMkmFzy4uxIGrDd547rf2z6/s1600/IMG_5862.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="662" data-original-width="1000" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRjWCYa0E45B5eQ1Oua4mb9abKNBi7Vzl348n0HBMt3imZ5VK2KfePQaDPd34J14ct9oOFu1lIa5QpGhLSHcMdgd23-k431e-xY8KRVbEh5SdK8EMkFGUUTqMkmFzy4uxIGrDd547rf2z6/s320/IMG_5862.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Brahminy Kite, dodging rain, and harvesting salt</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Continuing southwest, rain was at times heavy making roadside stops overlooking wetlands and salt pans difficult. But by the time we reached a small house tucked into the back end of a lagoon, the rain had let up. The property belonged to a well known ferryman of the Laem Phak Bia spit, Mr. Daeng. We climbed into low-riding long-tailed boats and chug-chugged our way out to the spit passing through wide swaths of marsh. Fortunately, it was still low tide so by the time we reached the spit there were a good number of birds. It was also quite windy which helped keep birds hunkered down.</span><br />
<span style="font-kerning: none;">A Chinese Egret, one of our target birds, was spotted by Mr. Deang. We also ticked White-faced Plover, a sought after subspecies of Kentish Plover.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">riding with Mr. Deang and birding the spit</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">With a few hours of daylight remaining, we finally arrived at a highly anticipated stop, the <a href="http://www.apple.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Pak Thale</span></a> wetlands to try for THE most anticipated bird of the tour: Spoon-billed Sandpiper.<i> Calidris pygmaea</i> is one of the most threatened birds on the planet. It breeds on the Chukotsk and Kamchatka peninsulas in the Russian Far East, migrates through Russia, Japan, North Korea, South Korea and the Jiangsu coast of China to winter in southern China, Bangladesh, Myanmar and Thailand, about 5,000 miles from its breeding grounds. Studies from its known breeding grounds have indicated a severe population decline in the early to late 2000s. Conservationists have set an ambitious but achievable aim to not only halt the decline by 2025, but increase the population by 50% over that same period.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9uLUf206yY9EmRH9_FrjZ3atAjxfeCb69lEuiqeFeXkLQ8A1l8mx-niVqalLQbYPlSLqdvqg6fvjl6FDJoDKFuV3KUGpEVyE5O9GBvqzzoKRWAhoyqRIr6KjDBukcTgkFM_1AX_uqnLcL/s1600/IMG_4806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="753" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9uLUf206yY9EmRH9_FrjZ3atAjxfeCb69lEuiqeFeXkLQ8A1l8mx-niVqalLQbYPlSLqdvqg6fvjl6FDJoDKFuV3KUGpEVyE5O9GBvqzzoKRWAhoyqRIr6KjDBukcTgkFM_1AX_uqnLcL/s320/IMG_4806.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">hoping to get lucky right away didn't pan out</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We were gob-smacked by the number of shorebirds. Thousands and thousands. Recent rains didn’t help our cause making traversing the narrow dikes between impoundments slippery and treacherous. In 2004 up to 16 individuals had been reported wintering at Pak Thale. Latest sightings suggested that number had dropped to a few individuals. The phrase “looking for a needle in a haystack” came quickly to mind.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFNWzebTupJl8PEac-f7-GyLPqtmxX324fWHJ0TUoVlW1yw2pw2Z36EB7eNZjz1-fhLGt9EfIFtNf9ofT_SAyvGmqnUmQ5jWjWSDlcqjRM9EPP0w8MwQgDUDAeZszn39ojjZqKi6mQ8pEX/s1600/IMG_4804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFNWzebTupJl8PEac-f7-GyLPqtmxX324fWHJ0TUoVlW1yw2pw2Z36EB7eNZjz1-fhLGt9EfIFtNf9ofT_SAyvGmqnUmQ5jWjWSDlcqjRM9EPP0w8MwQgDUDAeZszn39ojjZqKi6mQ8pEX/s320/IMG_4804.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">mud galore with Larry and Carol's sporting the new look </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Unfortunately we didn’t find any "needles". But we did manage to add pounds of mud to our hiking boots. Rubber boots would have been a blessing but we didn’t bring any. Even Chacos (easily cleaned) would have been doable. By the time we arrived at our overnight, the beachfront <span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;"><a href="http://www.itararesort.com/en/">i Tara Resort & Spa</a>,</span> we spent a lot of time hosing off footwear before traipsing into the hotel (much to the relief of onlooking staff).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Undeterred, early the next morning we revisited Pak Thale. It simply was not an option to leave the area without a Spoon-billed Sandpiper. A few of the group had devised a (so they thought) fool-proof way to protect their footwear. The placed plastic garbage bags gleaned from the hotel over their shoes, held up by twine. The design looked far better on paper than in practice. The weight of mud sticking plastic was too much to overcome. But it did make for some comical moments (at least to those not wearing the plastic bags). There many instances when birding exotic places to keep one's sense of humor.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-QFtQjTTLs1w8KbyPuMGwYIs65-pCqtwX5ij1CUX8n2HMpJbOezSjncqx6aEqi1czZwdKDOHShJvnG01XY8YWBPqqI9uWz26JW3qyC-wgUw3Pwo3rkWYLXPPfUgWbhamEkQYFfezOhLwx/s1600/Capto_Capture+2017-02-28_09-18-25_AM+copy.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="890" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-QFtQjTTLs1w8KbyPuMGwYIs65-pCqtwX5ij1CUX8n2HMpJbOezSjncqx6aEqi1czZwdKDOHShJvnG01XY8YWBPqqI9uWz26JW3qyC-wgUw3Pwo3rkWYLXPPfUgWbhamEkQYFfezOhLwx/s320/Capto_Capture+2017-02-28_09-18-25_AM+copy.tiff" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">earlier photo by Tropical Birding guide Lisle Gwinn taken on the bird's breeding ground</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lhJ9vtmQJSr0v9iQ6WZZc6K-XLwGGvfxDVm2-KACZfwjI9hwtUxXHt-pIp-oKRd-xS8wmF6kiiIOtN8KzJLuQiusvfv1ZtbamYJQPSZV7bLrakf7q0Fch6-XmUZ11-liOepQbOoQPVCg/s1600/IMG_2910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="773" data-original-width="1600" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lhJ9vtmQJSr0v9iQ6WZZc6K-XLwGGvfxDVm2-KACZfwjI9hwtUxXHt-pIp-oKRd-xS8wmF6kiiIOtN8KzJLuQiusvfv1ZtbamYJQPSZV7bLrakf7q0Fch6-XmUZ11-liOepQbOoQPVCg/s320/IMG_2910.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">happy birders after finding the spoon-billed!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After scouring a number of impoundments, we met a pair of birders with a guide coming off a distant dike where they had just seen a Spoon-billed Sandpiper! That’s all the encouragement we needed and off we trudged. We eventually keyed in on not one but two target birds, albeit through very distance scope views. Success! Suddenly muddy feet were forgotten. Plus by now we also tallied loads of sandpiper and allied species. Of 23 sandpiper species, 15 were life sightings including Nordmann’s Greenshank and Broad-billed Sandpiper. To this we added 7 species of plovers/lapwings, 12 species of wading bird (herons/egrets), and a bonus sighting of Spot-billed Pelican. We would experience other encounters with more shorebirds during our trip but nothing at all the likes of what we witnessed at Pak Thale.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Venturing further into the northern Thai peninsula we arrived at <a href="http://baanmaka.com/index.html"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Baan Maka Nature Lodge</span></a></span><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">. </span><span style="font-kerning: none;">After quickly dropping our luggage, we split into two groups, each going to an observation blind. Before darkness forced us back to the lodge, we added such striking birds as Oriental Pied-Hornbill, Greater Flameback Woodpecker, Siberian Blue Robin, Black-naped Monarch, and a couple of bee-eaters: Green and Chestnut-headed.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">great views but a step stool would have been handy!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The next morning we temporarily forsake our vans in favor of a couple of pickup trucks driven by local guides. Some rode inside the truck cabs while others sat perched on padded bench seats in the truck beds. Outside seating was cool (figuratively and literally), affording panoramic views of our surroundings. Green-eared and Blue-eared Barbets (have to say the barbet family is one of our favorites), Crested Serpent Eagle, Gray-rumped Treeswift, Rusty-cheeked Hornbill, and Blue-throated Flycatcher. On the mammal checklist we added White-handed Gibbon. They were as fascinated with us as we were with them.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrrpv_l4raHe922SfpgUmniuqCpz2iNOtOkTnQdSWveST5ie2y4UxhIWUeIM_OxC2jW5iW83fdhdZy4BWv7e0kX8kXOLzvrSLeHWzCyAj5unLv2WqcD-F_1jKoZV5hJFC3vx1zTeP-3q8/s1600/BlueThroatedFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="781" data-original-width="1000" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrrpv_l4raHe922SfpgUmniuqCpz2iNOtOkTnQdSWveST5ie2y4UxhIWUeIM_OxC2jW5iW83fdhdZy4BWv7e0kX8kXOLzvrSLeHWzCyAj5unLv2WqcD-F_1jKoZV5hJFC3vx1zTeP-3q8/s320/BlueThroatedFlycatcher.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ashy Drongo (top); Blue-throated Flycatcher</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During our mid-day packed lunch break we were informed that the road going to the top of the park (earlier we were told it was closed due to heavy rain) was now open. The whole purpose of using 4WD trucks was to ensure getting to the top so we were glad we were not to be denied. Added benefit was that both drivers were familiar with local bird species.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4diil_XV_e4Ps2S8eTLDCjDjydAVIl3wNToH7HLd3fiptv34EIqh482eLrAoUJq8hvi13z8Z7DWeV2G4XkpiATnJD4NPcHjSRwkoHR0m0V9OJyyTRDgp85J46zMRiuUMAZArmpVLclvJJ/s1600/Capto_Capture+2018-10-02_08-43-05_AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="789" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4diil_XV_e4Ps2S8eTLDCjDjydAVIl3wNToH7HLd3fiptv34EIqh482eLrAoUJq8hvi13z8Z7DWeV2G4XkpiATnJD4NPcHjSRwkoHR0m0V9OJyyTRDgp85J46zMRiuUMAZArmpVLclvJJ/s320/Capto_Capture+2018-10-02_08-43-05_AM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">sunrise Kaeng Krachen and Kalij Pheasant</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At the top of the park we scored Eye-browed and Orange-headed Thrushes, three bulbul species: Mountain, Ashy and Olive, and White-browed Scimitar-Babblers. On our way back down we sighted what are normally very shy, as many as six Kalij Pheasants, bold as brass along the road. That evening our meal at a local restaurant included two birthday celebrations: José P. and Carol D.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">dinner out and birthday celebrations</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A bit more leisurely start to the next morning, we first birded the grounds of Baan Maka before turning northward heading away from the peninsula. We wouldn’t be back to the peninsula again until the tour extension, and even then, much further south. Around the lodge we found Lesser-necklaced laughing-Thrush and flocks of Chestnut-tailed Starlings. A few roadside stops on the way to Khao Yai National Park added Plain-backed Sparrow and Vinous-breasted Starling. The thing about starlings in other parts of the world - they are quite remarkably more colorfully plumed compared to our European Starling invasive species in the U.S.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Passing through the</span><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;"> <a href="http://www.thaibirding.com/locations/central/petchaburi-rice-fields.htm"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Nong Pla Lai Paddies</span></a></span><span style="font-kerning: none;">, good for wintering bird species, we found Asian Openbills, Whiskered Terns, and Gray-headed Lapwings. There was no escaping the traffic of Bangkok on our way to Khao Yai National Park, arriving in the evening at a spot outside the park to find Lineated Barbet and our first sighting of Red-breasted Parakeets. Our overnight was at the sparsely appointed <a href="https://www.booking.com/hotel/th/juldis-khao-yai-j2.html"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Judis Khao Yai J2 Hotel</span></a>. The hotel didn’t serve meals but we were within easy walking distance of local restaurants and an open-air market where we purchased food for the next day’s box breakfast/lunch.</span><br />
By now we had learned that the best stops for bathroom breaks were 7-Eleven stores. Clean restrooms, easy in and out for fuel, opportunities for snacks, and an almost always adjacent Cafe Amazon (reminded us of a Starbucks but without the high prices). At times a local street vender or two might be set up near the parking lot for those in the group with an adventurous spirit.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">group pic at Khao Yai entrance</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Emboldened with caffeine and an small assortment of fresh fruit laid out by very obliging hotel staff, we arrived at <a href="https://www.thainationalparks.com/khao-yai-national-park"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Khao Yai National Park</span></a></span><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;"> </span><span style="font-kerning: none;">at first light. Established in 1962, it’s the third largest national park in Thailand. Habitat includes higher elevation fauna of evergreen forests and grasslands.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our early arrival was rewarded with a Wreathed Hornbill soaring majestically through the valley below. Wow - and we thought the hornbills in South Africa were impressive! Scarlet Minivets, Asian Fairy Bluebirds and a couple more hornbill species: Oriental Pied and Great were found in surrounding trees.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">we knew they were close</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Foregoing the road for a bit, we hiked a narrow trail into a forested area where we encountered fresh steaming elephant dung. A mammal we were very interested in seeing was the Asian Elephant to complete our list of world elephant species having seen African Elephants in South Africa. Eventually we caught glimpses of a small herd heading away from us through a deep ravine. A much less stressful encounter for all concerned. More feathered wildlife along the trail included Sultan Tits and a Moustached Barbet. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pale-blue Flycatcher</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Word had just recently gone out that a usually secretive (i.e. good luck ever finding one) Coral-billed Cuckoo had been making regular appearances along a trail in one of the park’s campgrounds. The bird was being regularly coaxed into view by the promise of meal worms put out by photographers. If we had any chance at all to glimpse this species, we would have to wait our turn to setup a blind, sprinkle mealworms, and be very patient. Of course this required Laurie to buy and keep on hand throughout the main tour, a jar of live mealworms. Fortunately no one ever confused the jar with the usual bounty of snacks we kept on hand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Thai photographers can be overly protective of "their" photography patches. But photography etiquette had to be observed. After several failed attempts over the course of the day to find the observation point devoid of photographers, we gave up, vowing to try again the next day.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">plenty of food and Carol (not to scale) with elephants</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Following a stop at the park’s visitor center cafeteria where we attempted to sample every dish of Thai food and Thai iced coffee laid available (and failing in our attempt), we headed back to the upper, cooler parts of the park to avoid midday heat. Verditer Flycatcher, Warblers: Two-barred, Yellow-browed and Sulphur-breasted. At the top, another opportunity for iced coffee and of course more bird species. Hainan Blue Flycather (initially observed from the men’s room window), Black-throated Sunbird and Radde’s Warbler. A small boardwalk led to a stunning valley overlook where we encountered a Red-headed Trogon before heading back down and encountering an annoyed Collared Owlet being harassed by smaller birds.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Carol and Larry taking a breather and enjoy the view</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Late afternoon we parked at a pond where our guides told us to “wait for it”. “It” turned out to be a small flock of Brown-backed Needletails, appearing for their late afternoon ritual drink and bath. Among some of the fastest flying birds in the world, they raced across the top of the water, effortlessly skimming their bill for water and splashing briefly to bathe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Leaving the swift display behind we moved on to a clearing for some last minute before-the-sun-set birding. We were serenaded by a very insistent distant Brown Boobook. Overnight again at the Judis Khao Yai J2 Hotel.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our second day at Khao Yai NP was nothing short of spectacular. In fact probably one of the best days on the tour. Passing a small lake the lead van suddenly swerved off the road and before it had even rolled to a complete stopped, Laurie was racing toward the water’s edge shouting something about, “wild dog, wild dog!”. We assumed he wasn’t referring to a lost domestic pet. Regardless, a good rule of thumb? When the guide gets this excited, it’s time to pay very strict attention.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhole</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lounging on the far side of the lake was a Dhole. An extremely rare and secretive wild dog. Listed as critically endangered, current world populations, estimated at fewer than 2,500 adults, are decreasing. Dholes have already been extirpated from most areas in Thailand, already absent from the peninsula and eastern parts of the country. They are still found in fragmented populations in several large protected area complexes like national parks. Ultimately we observed three Dholes; what appeared to be two adults and an older pup. Both Laurie and Phil had never before seen any in the wild. Clearly, we had not either. Totally unexpected. But then on this tour, we came to appreciate the phrase, “Always expect the unexpected”.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Asian elephant</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">No sooner were we back on the road when we came upon a bull Asian Elephant. A much better view than the quick glimpse we had the previous day, this bull was close to the road and in no hurry to leave. Of interest were large wet spots emanating from the animal’s temples. Hormonal discharge indicating the animal was going through a spike of testosterone (called a “musth”). These spikes are accompanied with spikes of aggression so this guy was spoiling for a fight. We took our pictures and moved on not wanting to further disturb him.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXsSxPUBo1RH0s7GGwjxVxQwIcHHMsJX3HaChF-pod20NTwgQ0ZxBll99f2ujV5t-gUUkfKrQIoJrQPhODb4ACwjVWPpd8UU-3tg1r1vMr-WV_qh_4hRbnNHVBTGkkZ1i7vdIq9usnNVV/s1600/20180207_090155_1518009975486_resized.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXsSxPUBo1RH0s7GGwjxVxQwIcHHMsJX3HaChF-pod20NTwgQ0ZxBll99f2ujV5t-gUUkfKrQIoJrQPhODb4ACwjVWPpd8UU-3tg1r1vMr-WV_qh_4hRbnNHVBTGkkZ1i7vdIq9usnNVV/s320/20180207_090155_1518009975486_resized.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">constructing makeshift blind then standing patiently </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our first attempt checking on the cuckoo viewing site availability resulted in an enthusiastic thumbs up from Laurie. We quickly (but quietly) hustle down the trail to set up a makeshift blind. Laurie had somehow managed to get hold of some material from the hotel (it looked suspiciously like tablecloths). With material stretched out along a length of twine strung between two trees, we dutifully took our standing positions and began our vigil, fingers crossed. Parked in front of our blind was a 'proper blind' occupied by a local photographer who didn't mind our presence. No way would we all fit in his blind!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmubHxCL_4Pd8_2jHsn9nsEHxh7_rLzLXXknnZBOP9QbceV1CxjubPSu8-k6gVgrlV1sKVgwJfjmMViYmcTJY35o44mwfQAHxB9PYuALVqMA6m1_WmYciBChaLfsZxM3FnC3LnRwsYyUd/s1600/CoralBilledCuckoo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="798" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmubHxCL_4Pd8_2jHsn9nsEHxh7_rLzLXXknnZBOP9QbceV1CxjubPSu8-k6gVgrlV1sKVgwJfjmMViYmcTJY35o44mwfQAHxB9PYuALVqMA6m1_WmYciBChaLfsZxM3FnC3LnRwsYyUd/s320/CoralBilledCuckoo.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">our view of the trail and the bird itself</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It didn’t help that a couple of local primates had learned there were meal worms to be had. While fun to watch, we needed them to leave which they eventually did on their own. First to appear was a White-rumped Shama. Then a Siberian Blue Robin followed by a stunning Orange-headed Thrush. Finally, around fifteen minutes later, a dark form quickly crossed the path and disappeared. Wait? Was that It? That was all we’d see?A few very anxious minutes later, our prize stepped into plain view not less than twenty feet away! This large enigmatic bird is one everyone comes to Thailand hoping to see but most leave without seeing one. Lucky us! </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">More birding around the campgrounds and picnic areas followed by roadside birding along the road to the summit. Our luck seemed to hold when a Silver Pheasant was spotted strolling along the roadside. Given the time of day and realizing we’d need a lunch break before venturing all the way to the top, we retraced our route back down to the park restaurant. The lure of another go at the many samplings of Thai cuisine was strong. Honestly? The slightest hint at eating was ALWAYS met with enthusiasm. However, nature has a way of altering plans. As we rounded a bend in the road, we met a throng of cars blocking our path. Several people were out of their vehicles, standing further up the road peering around a sharp bend. Unable to proceed, we too parked, curious to see what was up.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGEVW34fyWiGlS_3iixylrBJuujGVt9xAwKr5DrUX4JIFniUiQkn4dd-o3as1Dvfhv8FGdWS0SS-wRWjmYv1irfsk2BTT50NfNI8lsQ9iboEyqCLvuHB7nLoGMA1okwKjS7rmykNcpG4M6/s1600/Sulphurs3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1000" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGEVW34fyWiGlS_3iixylrBJuujGVt9xAwKr5DrUX4JIFniUiQkn4dd-o3as1Dvfhv8FGdWS0SS-wRWjmYv1irfsk2BTT50NfNI8lsQ9iboEyqCLvuHB7nLoGMA1okwKjS7rmykNcpG4M6/s320/Sulphurs3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">the loser in a megafauna tussle</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Onlookers gathered at the far bend suddenly turned and began running back toward their vehicles. This is when in the movies Godzilla makes an appearance, right? Remember the bull elephant high on testosterone? That’s what came lumbering quickly around the corner, apparently having met another bull elephant as he was now missing one of his tusks, blood mixed with hormonal discharge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Over the next hour the injured bull wandered in and out of the nearby forest and back and forth parallel to the road. Park rangers had brought in a couple of large water tank trucks, presumably to be used to block the elephant from coming too close to parked vehicles. At one point it appeared the bull, now walking through a grassy knoll, wanted to cross the road, perhaps to get to a lake on the opposite side? Eventually, he wandered far enough away that the road was again opened to traffic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On our way around the far corner, signs of an epic battle came into view. It looked like two Sherman tanks had battled in the forest. Large branches, small trees and road signs were demolished. The road was covered in blood.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVuzNw3OIS_tpkFoE6xn6HcRrmRt7IcOt8GLXzcsAb3wReaIlSoRgL2hd7HoLWRDZocBxcPEiDzy5rtyajm2mmbVgLA0JCgvkrdZRpvKeVtRZF7-CXmTAml_PQn8lHVqfITC6uAIuIdcNr/s1600/SambarDeer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="724" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVuzNw3OIS_tpkFoE6xn6HcRrmRt7IcOt8GLXzcsAb3wReaIlSoRgL2hd7HoLWRDZocBxcPEiDzy5rtyajm2mmbVgLA0JCgvkrdZRpvKeVtRZF7-CXmTAml_PQn8lHVqfITC6uAIuIdcNr/s320/SambarDeer.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Carol making a new friend - Sambar Deer</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Arriving far later than anticipated at the restaurant, we attempted to complete our sampling of what we had missed the day before but once again failing in our quest. The human body can take only so much food in one sitting. Casually seated at tables scattered along a stream bordering the restaurant, we caught sight of more birds seen earlier in the trip. We were also entertained by Pig-tailed Macaques hoping to score snacks as they meticulously searched parked vehicle, looking for any weaknesses. We recalled our days in Africa and baboons and why one never leaves a vehicle door unlocked or a window open. Even cracked open a wee bit.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pig-tailed Macaque - top to bottom youngster, female, male</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As we assembled to leave, we discovered that one of the vans had in fact been left with a window left ajar. Ajar just enough for an enterprising macaque's fingers to lever it open. Rummaged bags, scattered contents and pilfered belongings (sun screen seemed to be popular), the lucky macaque had found and eaten all the bananas. Quite a mess (our driver was not amused). Lesson learned? Hope so.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Unsure as to whether the bull elephant was again blocking the road to the summit, we opted to walk a forested trail for anything new. Not terribly productive until a Blue Pitta started calling. By the sound of it’s two-call note it was quite close. Frustratingly close. But as with most pitta encounters, hearing is easy. Seeing is usually impossible. Suddenly it was not just one but three pittas calling. Our hopes at a sighting soared. Alas, aside from a few fleeting glimpses by only a few in the group, we struck out. Pitta 1, group 0.</span><br />
We finished the day staking out a small vista near the park entrance. Here we added Scarlet and Brown-rumped Minivets, A White-rumped Munia and a very cooperative Asian Emerald Cuckoo. With light fading quickly, we came across a small feeding flock of rainbow-colored Pin-tailed Parrotfinches in a stand of flowering bamboo. Infrequent and unpredictable species; expect the unexpected. Another overnight at the <a href="https://www.booking.com/hotel/th/juldis-khao-yai-j2.html"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Judis Khao Yai J2 Hotel</span></a>.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">impressive staircase and cliffs</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Owing to an expected long driving/birding day, began well before first light. Just after sunrise we made a quick stop at a small the secluded nearby Phra Puttabhat Noi Temple, one of those “sure thing” opportunities for Limestone Wren-Babbler. Nothing is ever absolute when it comes to guaranteeing a bird but in this instance, it was a sure thing. Climbing an impressively adorned staircase set along a limestone cliff, we found a handful of boisterous wren-babblers foraging between rocks and boulders. Quite a handsome looking bird.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">cruising Bueng Boraphet</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After our long drive to Bueng Boraphet, Thailand’s largest freshwater lake, what better way to explore the area than on a couple of flat-bottom boats weaving through masses of floating lotus and other aquatic vegetation! Thousands of wintering birds included Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, Cotton Pygmy Goose, Ferruginous Duck, Garganey, Lesser Whistling-Duck, and a very nice prize not found on every tour - Baer’s Pochard. Just as we were docking, with the sun about to dip below the horizon, a Cinnamon Bittern flushed, rounding off a very impressive tally for a day considering much of it was spent in the vans.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">hard to get the scale of this massive dragon atop an adjacent building</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Overnight found us in a very urban setting: the <a href="https://www.booking.com/hotel/th/bonito-chinos-hotel.html"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Bonito Chinos Hotel</span></a> in downtown Nakhon Sawan. After a leisurely rooftop evening meal replete with a karaoke serenade from the bar (oddly, not enjoyed by everyone), some of the group wandered around nearby streets to sample city street life which was gearing up, as was all of Thailand, for the coming Chinese New Year.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Siam croc and Common Kingfisher</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Another early start (see the pattern forming?) began with a few stops at access points along the edges of Bueng Boraphet. First a small crocodile farm which is actually a Fisheries Research Station.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At the research station a fenced impoundment was filled with Siam Crocodiles and a number of crocodile wary waterbirds (‘hope springs eternal’ is the crocodile motto). Kingfishers here and in other parts of the world far outshine our kingfishers in the United States. Common (an unfair moniker as it looks anything but ‘common’) Kingfisher, White-throated Kingfisher, and Pied Kingfisher. And if these weren’t enough, we added the aptly named, Stork-billed Kingfisher. While enjoying another look at a Yellow Bittern, a Black Bittern popped up as if to say “me too!”. Pallas Grasshopper-Warbler was briefly glimpsed by a few but mainly just heard by the majority.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">White-eyed River Martin monument</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A very brief stop at Waterbird Park ("Nok Nam Park”) where there is an interesting monument to the one and only reported record of a White-eyed River Martin (<i>Pseudochelidon sirintarae). </i>The curious story on the river martin? A single specimen was discovered as recently as 1969 and is only known from this one specimen and anecdotal evidence – no modern ornithologists have seen the species in the wild, and its breeding grounds are unknown. It may, in fact, and probably is, extinct. There was one possible but unconfirmed sighting reported in 2004. We scanned the skies but figured the chances of finding a Blue Pitta were far better. And we know how that turned out.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Inthanon Highland Resort deck and restaurant</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Puncuated with potty stops, lunch and a few roadside bird sightings, we arrived just before dark at the <a href="http://www.inthanonhighlandresort.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Inthanon Highland Resort</span></a>. A brief time to stretch our legs, get checked into our rooms located in several buildings scattered around the expansive property and finally, adult beverages with probably one of the best meals of the trip - Hung Lay curry and a fried pork dish that was heavenly. This stop offered our first opportunity to get some laundry done as we would be here for a few nights. Our bird tally thus far? We had racked up an impressive 241 species of birds (204 being life birds). Next entry: The ups and downs of exploring Doi Inthanon National Park.</span><br />
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3028675286909551263.post-30788274626161049082018-09-30T13:17:00.002-07:002018-09-30T13:32:40.966-07:00Thailand 2018: Part 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A <a href="http://www.tropicalbirding.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Tropical Birding</span><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"> </span></a>custom tour guided by Laurie Ross and Phil Chaon. (assisted by Wichyanan “Jay” Limparungpatthanakij on the extension to the Thailand peninsula) </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Laurie, Phil and jay</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">“</span><i style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Thailand is one of those indescribable places. Trying to put it into words after nearly a month in this incredibly diverse country I am confronted with a series of stills and images rather than a single coherent idea. The towering skyscrapers of Bangkok. White pyramids of salt in the bright mid-day sun surrounded by hordes of shorebirds. The unearthly song of gibbons echoing off misty hillsides in the early morning. The sweet smell of a warm pine forest and the persistent clear whistles of a Giant Nuthatch. Thailand is a kaleidoscope of landscapes, flavors, and bird communities with influences from many corners of the continent evident at this crossroads of a nation. All of this combined with a whopping 517 bird species seen on tour and it is easy to see why this tour is a favorite for guides and clients alike.</i><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">” - Phil Chaon, Tropical Birding guide</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We have to say, Phil, spot on! Thailand was all this and more. To read Phil’s complete official Tropical Birding tour report of our 2018 custom tour, follow this link:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.tropicalbirding.com/2018/07/25/trip-report-thailand-custom-feb-2018/"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">http://www.tropicalbirding.com/2018/07/25/trip-report-thailand-custom-feb-2018/<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; color: #0076ba;"></span></span></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What’s missing from Phil’s report are our personal accounts and photos which are contained in four blog posts beginning with Thailand 2018: Part 1</span></span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So why Thailand? For starters Thailand has an exceptionally high bird diversity. Numerous resident species plus the country is a confluence of Palearctic and Himalayan migrants. In other words, the potential for hundreds of life birds plus adding new bird families to our life lists. Then there is the legendary Thai cuisine and hospitality. And scenery.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Planning for our custom tour began in 2016. By mid 2017 we had assembled a group of fellow birders, many we’ve traveled with on previous tours. Pat Brust (WI), Larry and Carol Dole (NH), John Bruder and Risé Foster-Bruder (CO), Melissa Bruder (WI), José Padilla (FL), and Greg Seegert (WI). New to the group were Rick Sanders and Janice Hand (MT), recommended by John and Risé.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">LtoR: Carol S., Tom, Jose, Phil, Rick, Melissa, Greg, John, Pat, Risé, Larry, Laurie, Carol D.<br />seated is our driver</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thai map depicting the 72 provinces </span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our main tour ran from February 2 thru February 17. An optional extension to the Thai peninsula began February 18 and ended February 23.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As is always the case, everyone was responsible for booking their own air travel. We encourage people to arrive at least a day early to acclimate to different weather conditions and in in this case, to cope with crossing the international dateline and possible jet lag. Flying west from the United States everyone lost a day. Flying back, everyone recouped a day. Especially confusing when booking flights!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">web construction manmade and in nature</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had opted to arrive three days early, as did John and Risé. Pat, Greg, Rick and Janice were due in on January 31. The Doles, Melissa, and José would arrive February 1.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our Delta flight from Tucson left at 7:45am. A Korean Air connection at LAX left at 11:00am. Crossing the International Dateline we landed at <a href="https://www.seoul-airport.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Incheon International Airport</span></a>, a 13-hour flight where we made a connecting Korean Air flight. Up until this point things were fine, however, our Incheon takeoff was delayed by almost two hours due to all planes needing de-icing. By the time we arrived in Bangkok and passed through Thai immigration and customs, it was well past 2:00am. Worrisome because the cutoff time for the hotel’s airport shuttle was 2:00am.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tucson - Los Angels - South Korea - Thailand</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After speaking with a security guard, plus the help of a taxi driver, we discovered the hotel was aware our flight had been delayed and a driver was still looking for us. A quick call by the taxi driver let the shuttle driver know where we were to be picked up. Whew! But by the time we got checked into our room at the </span><a href="https://amaranthhotel.com/" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Amaranth Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel</span></a><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, it was well past 3:00am! 18-hours of actual flying time plus approximately 10 hours spent in airports. Long international flights are becoming less and less attractive to us (unless one flies first class or business class and that ain’t us!)</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Interesting to note that our recovery time is always far faster following a long travel day when we arrive in a new place compared to a long travel day returning home (after which seems to take days to recover). Must be all the excitement of a new continent!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">hotel water fountain</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A few days prior to our departure for Thailand we’d gotten word from Tropical Birding that one of our guides was not going to be joining us due to personal reasons. But not to worry, a substitute guide was on his way. Over the years we’ve gotten to know most of the Tropical Birding’s guides and although we didn’t know either of our assigned guides, we knew we’d be in good hands, regardless.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Up early with little sleep (but full of energy), a quick stop at the concierge’s desk on our way to breakfast a gave us a better idea about our local sightseeing tour options. After meeting up with Risé and John, we settled on a half day tour package of local temples and well known Buddhas and a river cruise. Unfortunately, the day’s weather had started with what we were told unseasonable rain. We stepped outside the hotel lobby under the cover of our umbrellas, to ID Coppersmith Barbet, Pink-necked Pigeon, Malaysian Pied-Fantail, Olive-backed Sunbird, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Great Myna, and Asian Palm-Swift. All life birds.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Coppersmith Barbet</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Zebra Doves</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We also caught up with our guides, Laurie Ross and Phil Chaon in the hotel lobby. Laurie, originally from New Zealand, is now living in Australia’s Northern Territory, where he calls Darwin home. Phil found an interest in birds while coping with the crushing reality there were not, and never would be, alligators in Cleveland. Over the course of our tour we found they both had razor sharp birding skills and an endless drive to “get that bird!”. By the way, both are excellent photographers. You can see Laurie’s extensive photo collection (check out the Birds of Thailand album) at <span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><a href="http://laurieross.com.au/">Laurie Ross Bird Photos</a><span style="color: white;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">food and flowering plants were stunning throughout the tour</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finally fortified with breakfast and much needed caffeine, we were ready for our Bangkok tour. Both guide and driver arrived promptly at 10:30. Departing the hotel we were shuttled about in bustling Bangkok traffic in a very comfortable air conditioned minivan to see what we would see.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bangkok and outer municipalities are home to an estimated 8.5 million people (as of 2016). Any city this size is going to have crushing traffic but fortunately, the majority of our stops were in a relatively concentrated area where we spent a good deal of time walking once we were dropped off.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A brief tour recap:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration: underline;"><u style="font-weight: bold;">Wat Traimit:</u> A</span><span style="font-kerning: none;">n elegant multilevel white and gold temple located at the beginning of Yaowarat Road. The main attraction of Wat Traimit is not only beautiful architecture, but an </span><span style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration: underline;">immense </span><span style="font-kerning: none;">buddha made of solid gold, the largest of its kind in the world. This 16-foot high, five and a half ton statue, thought to have been made in the 13th-14th centuries, had long been hidden under an unimpressive coating of stucco and plaster and was only revealed by accident in 1955.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wat Traimit and Golden Buddha</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-decoration: underline;"><b>Wat Pho:</b></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Named after a monastery in India where Buddha is believed to have lived, it's one of the oldest and largest Buddhist temples in Bangkok. Wat Pho is also known as “The Temple of the Reclining Buddha”, a 49-foot high, 141-foot long Buddha, covered with gold and exquisite mother-of-pearl (or nacre) decorations. Located adjacent to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho also houses one thousand buddha images and 91 chedis (stupas), including four very impressive chedis dedicated to the four chakri kings. Wat Pho is also home to the first Thai massage school where Thai massage is still taught at the Traditional Medical Practitioners Association Center, located in an open air hall outside the temple.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #404040; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="color: #404040; font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><u>Wat Phra Kaew:</u> </b></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Built within the grounds of the Grand Palace, one of the most significant features of Wat Phra Kaew is the Emerald Buddha, carved into a 26-inch tall block of Jade. This highly revered icon was first discovered in 1464 in Chiang Rai when the Wat sheltering it was struck by lightning. It was taken to Laos before being returned to Chiang Mai, finally making a permanent home in Bangkok. The robes on the Buddha are changed with each of the four seasons by HM The King of Thailand and forms an important ritual in the Buddhist calendar. Wat Phra Kaew also houses a 6561-foot long gallery covered with incredibly detailed mural paintings depicting 178 scenes of the epic story of Ramayana, an ancient Indian epic poem which narrates the struggle of the divine prince Rama to rescue his wife Sita from the demon king Ravana. Tall chedis covered with glazed tiles or gold leaves seemed to be around every corner. But the most photographed building is the massive golden chedi of Phra Sri Rattana featured on the Thai one baht coin. The Emerald Buddha was one of the few sites where we were not allowed to photograph while inside (but managed a quick pic as we exited).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wat Phra Kaew and Jade Buddha</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Grand Palace</b>: The palace complex, like the rest of Ratanakosin Island, is laid out very similar to the palaces of Ayutthaya, the former capital of Siam which was raided by the Burmese. The Outer Court, near the entrance, used to house government departments in which the King was directly involved: civil administration, the army and the treasury. The Central Court is where conducting state business was once located. Only two of the throne halls are open to the public. The Inner Court is where the King's royal consorts and daughters lived. The Inner Court was like a small city entirely populated by women and boys under the age of puberty. Even though no royalty currently reside in the inner court, it is still completely closed off to the public. Despite the proximity of the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, there's a distinct contrast in archetectual style between the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the more European inspired design of the Grand Palace (the roof being the main exception). Other highlights are Boromabiman Hall and Amarinda Hall, the original residence of King Rama I and the Hall of Justice.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">with Risé and John Grand Palace</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Water Cruise:</b> A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya River, Bangkok, Thailand, and some canals on the Thon Buri side was a most pleasant way to explore a small part of the city once dubbed the "Venice of the East”. Rivers and canals (“maenam” and “khlong” in Thai) have always been vital forms of communication and commerce.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">John, our Thai guide, Risé</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our water tour portion was by long-tail boat. Basically a canapied canoe shaped boat powered by a car or truck engine at the rear. The propellor extended to the rear by a driveshaft measuring several feet in length giving the boat its name. There’s an epic long-boat chase in a James Bond film “Man with the Golden Gun” on one of the canals we toured: </span><span style="color: #0076ba; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZIyMD46M-U" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZIyMD46M-U</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Along our voyage we saw traces of the Early Rattanakosin period architecture. We passed the Royal Barge National Museum which exhibits royal barges and their ornaments used for waterborne state ceremonies which have been held occasionally since the Sukhothai period, and, Wat Suwannaram, a large royal monastery constructed during the reign of King Rama I and was subsequently renovated during the reign of King Rama III.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our guide was most genial and informative covering several aspects of Thai history and culture. Thailand, or rather the Kingdom of Thailand (formerly known as Siam) is considered a regional power in Southeast Asia, classified as a newly industrialized economy (the second largest in Southeast Asia) with manufacturing, agriculture and tourism as the three leading sectors of the kingdom’s economy. For whatever reason, whenever we brought up the movie "The King and I" we were met with a frown. Apparently the 1956 musical and subsequent 1999 remake have always been banned. Historically inaccurate, the portrayal of the king as a comic figure has been deemed disrespectful by Thai censors. And one thing in Thailand is for certain - one does not disrespect the king in any shape or form, especially in public.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Politics in Thailand are conducted within a framework of a constitutional monarchy. Head of government is a prime minister while a king, a hereditary monarch, is head of state. Historically, Thailand's form of government has ranged from a military dictatorship to electoral democracy. Three branches of government consist of executive, legislative, and judiciary. However, rulings by the judiciary tend to be more political than based on rule of law. Under the current constitution, the king has very little power. Thrown into the mix,Thailand is presently ruled by a military junta, using a somewhat dubious name of National Council for Peace and Order (NCPO). The NCPO drafted a new constitution (2017) that states when a new cabinet is established after the first general election, the NCPO will disband itself.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thailand’s prevalent religion is Buddhism. Throughout our travels in Thailand, we witnessed hundreds of “Wats” (temples). Statues of Buddha came in all manner of construction and sizes. Wooden, bronze, marble, lavastone, and lacquered. Laughing, singing, reclining, and crowned. Just don't point at a Buddha (pointing in general is considered rude) and do not point one's feet toward a buddha.</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We encountered hundreds of monks in our tour. When in conversation with a monk who is sitting, make sure you sit down first. Women should refrain from touching a monk as it is prohibited. And should you give or receive something from a monk, do so with your right hand.</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A curious scene in the Thai airports we encountered was that monks have their own designated seating area. "Monks only". How strange it was, then, to observe many monks seated in their designated areas using smart phones and tablets. An oath of silence but not texting.</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next to depictions of Buddha, elephants play a pivotal role in Thai culture. Beasts of burden, spiritual symbols, used for agriculture and the military, they’ve been revered for centuries.</span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Whenever entering a temple, we had to remove our shoes which were sometimes (but usually not) stored outside on racks. Best one remembers where one’s shoes were left since hundreds of pairs could be on the racks at any given time. By the end of the day we were pretty knackered but glad in the knowledge gained of Thai culture which we wouldn’t have been otherwise learned on a straight birding tour. For a complete set of over 100 tour photos, check out our album <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/96614854@N08/albums/72157671823658097" target="_blank">"Bangkok Thailand Tour"</a> on Flickr.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We returned back at the hotel for an evening meal where we discovered Pat and Greg had arrived. Rick and Janice had also arrived but they had opted to forego any group plans and instead made their own plans for shopping and sight-seeing.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhALEdA_UkmTL8ye8ygzgCyEm7D4WuF4KMzyFlclLb-wyd_dqUQw9RCZXSwNq6lcUlulByEnFijqpjvOfZ8ShFOlhxVl4iJMuAiIRtrK4YWwdBZBjzazKXTa7Lj6r3qKbkoQ-zVP0KELGJ3/s1600/IMG_4707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhALEdA_UkmTL8ye8ygzgCyEm7D4WuF4KMzyFlclLb-wyd_dqUQw9RCZXSwNq6lcUlulByEnFijqpjvOfZ8ShFOlhxVl4iJMuAiIRtrK4YWwdBZBjzazKXTa7Lj6r3qKbkoQ-zVP0KELGJ3/s320/IMG_4707.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"green lung" trail sign</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next morning, with the help of the hotel’s concierge service we were able to secure a taxi to take us to </span><a href="http://www.thaibirding.com/locations/central/sri-nakorn-kuen-khan-park.htm" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">Sri Nakorn Kuen Khan</span></a><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, an area known as Bang Krajao, often referred to as the "Green Lung of Bangkok”. Seen on a map it's an obvious green area, nestled in the horseshoe of the Chao Phraya River.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2_nU1DXwV2gisILKodvtZMpH4hjnc7xkTv_jmbmZK3k3ZokeTIl2Fp9g-6HZ5RJPLDZ1L2OtVDLpc1AMLszYSsxZR9hUS9FsIECl2i6sJL6vL0aCvRxUsr83cofLM1RWszCGgjvnGqM63/s1600/thailand_oli_2014033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="720" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2_nU1DXwV2gisILKodvtZMpH4hjnc7xkTv_jmbmZK3k3ZokeTIl2Fp9g-6HZ5RJPLDZ1L2OtVDLpc1AMLszYSsxZR9hUS9FsIECl2i6sJL6vL0aCvRxUsr83cofLM1RWszCGgjvnGqM63/s320/thailand_oli_2014033.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">aerial view of "green lung"</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This small lush jungle, opened in 2003, is a medium-sized park consisting of areas of landscaped gardens next to a lake. But of more interest to us, at least half of the park is un-manicured and overgrown, vestiges of coconut plantations which are surprisingly wild and attract a lot of birds, particularly in migratory periods. The park is also surrounded by lots of similar habitat, a fact which is not lost on migrating birds.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">elephant icons were everywhere including these street lamps</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There are two popular ways to get to the park. Klong Toey pier is located around 200 metres down a small road to Wat Klong Toey, the entrance to which is 50 metres or so west of the gate for the large port area. From this pier it is possible to catch a small boat across the Chao Praya river. The boat makes two stops on the opposite side, the first one being the stop for the park, although this could change so it is worth letting the boatman know where you want to go.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Magpie Robin</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The second option was to go by taxi and enter the park via a small narrow road.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finding the “a small narrow road” turned out to be a challenge for our taxi driver. Even though explicit instructions were given to her by the hotel concierge, it didn’t help that she had never been to the area before and that we didn’t speak Thai nor did she speak English.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">taxi route</span></td></tr>
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The blue line shows the route from our hotel to the park entrance (red pin). We later learned because the park is not well-known by most Bangkok taxi drivers, to take one taxi to well known Suksawat Road which is close to the park, then find another taxi driver who knows the local area. There is even a script in Thai giving precise instructions which we could have printed out. But what fun would that have been?</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbF__Cw3wkb91a_HKZdChyphenhyphendOg2QLk4XlybmSExYR_8u5TJfrqAUpvf_Cjh_BtnSlIavHCfDyhPPxiPGtNajiEfDaxTEUATR5m95jAV9jv2dw8v_bL8CLjLzKVFVnate3xEPfeI2Kn99oh/s1600/Pink-necked+Green+Pigeon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="826" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbF__Cw3wkb91a_HKZdChyphenhyphendOg2QLk4XlybmSExYR_8u5TJfrqAUpvf_Cjh_BtnSlIavHCfDyhPPxiPGtNajiEfDaxTEUATR5m95jAV9jv2dw8v_bL8CLjLzKVFVnate3xEPfeI2Kn99oh/s320/Pink-necked+Green+Pigeon.jpg" width="264" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pink-necked Green Pigeon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A number of species are regular migrants including Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Mugimaki Flycatcher, Drongo Cuckoo, Crow-billed Drongo, Forest Wagtail and Black Baza. In fact, upon our arrival and before we ever entered the park proper, we spent a half hour birding around where the taxi had parked. Of course all new birds to us and without a guide, it took us longer thumbing through our field guides. ID-ing was challenging, but rewarding, when we sussed out ID’s out on our own. It was a great intro to Thai birding. By the way. a great online resource for birding in Thailand is <a href="http://thaibirding.com/">thaibirding.com</a> by Nick Upton. It's how we discovered </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bang Krajao. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4l_UwoA27rwyi3ESYBkrgcE0E-ghcOwT0MNjTyDuRSjxhp4iFfdUxiV2yyqO02tZK5OrD0SXdzzWwtYbYgTrAYl1mlUapfKgV4NUr5xEVz-H06MemLcj081028Fxme23vjkX60v42kiPL/s1600/IMG_5855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="995" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4l_UwoA27rwyi3ESYBkrgcE0E-ghcOwT0MNjTyDuRSjxhp4iFfdUxiV2yyqO02tZK5OrD0SXdzzWwtYbYgTrAYl1mlUapfKgV4NUr5xEVz-H06MemLcj081028Fxme23vjkX60v42kiPL/s320/IMG_5855.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EPrP_iHhBr97dbfIMEtJyQmLPAimwHCD1-XjHpO2xCxk27ykauz8Ixp8gCUj_Mk0Ud75uwSRXCwPJEvQaFpQM2_17g4sUjbpF7jK9DWo1vD1ZE7gszkDYSCSa2DoAoF3-S4nz3CgmdA3/s1600/IMG_5853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="841" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EPrP_iHhBr97dbfIMEtJyQmLPAimwHCD1-XjHpO2xCxk27ykauz8Ixp8gCUj_Mk0Ud75uwSRXCwPJEvQaFpQM2_17g4sUjbpF7jK9DWo1vD1ZE7gszkDYSCSa2DoAoF3-S4nz3CgmdA3/s320/IMG_5853.jpg" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We quickly learned small shrines were everywhere .</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwjg1TQ9Rdva8VOghC-AU35Is8fzGbCT6zzzgDz7wXWkSAQ1UdvYuieyg6N3AIZfO3XNSUTCEaAMxRXy5F5qE10G_64zXLQFH6_KD8u40UF4auKfaCba3Hk0pVANGULgfF0iyuiwWla2bm/s1600/IMG_5856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="637" data-original-width="1000" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwjg1TQ9Rdva8VOghC-AU35Is8fzGbCT6zzzgDz7wXWkSAQ1UdvYuieyg6N3AIZfO3XNSUTCEaAMxRXy5F5qE10G_64zXLQFH6_KD8u40UF4auKfaCba3Hk0pVANGULgfF0iyuiwWla2bm/s320/IMG_5856.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">by the time we exited the park, food venders were set up </span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Much to our relief, our taxi driver, fearing she wouldn't find her way back, waited for us outside the park the whole time we were inside birding, earning her a well deserved tip.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back at our hotel we finally connected with the Doles and Jose who had arrived earlier in the day. Too late to go birding with us at “the lung” but they still managed their own birding around the hotel grounds. Melissa (still a working gal) would not arrive until late evening thus missed free day activities. She barely had any sleep at all before the tour started but was up and ready to go when on February 2, we boarded our vans in pursuit of our Thailand adventure.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To repeat, </span><a href="http://www.tropicalbirding.com/2018/07/25/trip-report-thailand-custom-feb-2018/" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 118, 186); color: #0076ba;">the entire tour as reported by Phil</span></a><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> is on Tropical Birding’s web site giving an excellent overview of birding locations with a complete list of the birds seen/heard and some of Phl's photos.</span></div>
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Tom and Carol Sykeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05883699852166609733noreply@blogger.com0