1/22/2020
Day 8 - Week 2
Oaxaca City
Oaxaca, one of 32 states, is located in Southwestern Mexico. It is bordered by the states of Guerrero to the west, Puebla to the northwest, Veracruz to the north, and Chiapas to the east. To the south, Oaxaca has a significant coastline on the Pacific Ocean.
Oaxaca is also one of the most biologically diverse states in Mexico, ranking in the top three, along with Chiapas and Veracruz, for numbers of reptiles, amphibians, mammals and plants.
Evidence of human habitation dating back to about 11,000 years BC. By 500 BC, the central valleys of Oaxaca were mostly inhabited by the Zapotecs, with the Mixtecs on the western side. These two groups were often in conflict throughout the pre-Hispanic period. Starting from AD 750 previous large urban centers such as Monte Alban fell across the Oaxaca area and smaller dominions grew and evolved until the Spanish Conquest in 1521.
The indiginous peoples of the Zapotecs, the Mixteca, the Mazatecas and the Cuicatecas, for the most part, chose not to fight the newcomers, instead negotiating to keep most of the old hierarchy but with handing over ultimate authority to the Spanish. Not surpringly, the Spanish conquest and subsequent colonization had a devastating effect on the native population, due to European diseases and forced labor.
For much of the colonial period, the state (then an intendencia or province) was relatively isolated with few roads and other forms of communication. Most politics and social issues were strictly on the local level. Despite Spanish domination, the indigenous peoples of Oaxaca have maintained much of their culture and identity, more so than most other places in Mexico. Part of this is due to the geography of the land, making many communities isolated.
The state of Oaxaca became a state in 1824 with Jose Maria Murguia named as its first governor. After the Independence of Mexico in 1821, the city of Oaxaca, changed from Antequera, became the capitol municipality of the state of Oaxaca. In 1872, "de Juárez" was added to the city name to honor Benito Juárez, where he began his legal and political career.
Moving to the present we spent another day exploring parts of the city. In part exploring for a shop to purchase an extra layer of clothing, wishing we had brought more with us. Unfortunately, shops in and around the zocala stock tight sports wear, or, more fashionable outwear that isn’t practical.
A few more errands included picking up some mezcal from the market from a specific shop. Zig-zagging through the mercado we did finally come upon the correct shop and the correct brand of joven mezcal, purchased form a nice young man, Marco. It remains to be seen if this was a wise choice or not.
We also stopped at another restaurant recommended by Paul and Gloria, Yeatman. Not particularly overwhelming fare but certainly inexpensive.
Returning to our apartment we took a little time to rest before heading out to the super mercado, Chaudri to replenish cereal, buy a dish towel (the one in the kitchen needed replacing) and a set of tools to be given to Manuel. Then back home in time for happy hour, dinner and a movie. Well, a video on a laptop.
Day 9 - Week 2
Oaxaca City - Monte Albán
Monte Albán, a large pre-Columbian archaeological site was the ancient center of Zapotec and Mixtec culture. It is located approximately 7 miles from Oaxaca City. Getting there we rode a shuttle service offered by a nearby hotel, Hotel Rivera de Angels, about a ten minute walk away from our apartment. For a mere $60 pesos per person. $80 per person admission.
The shuttle runs every half hour from the hotel starting at 8:30am. Returning from Monte Albán, shuttles departed on the hour beginning at Noon. We’ve observed that most folks, both tourists and locals, don’t start showing up in numbers on city streets until well after 9:00am.
We paid of shuttle fee, received a receipt we would need to show the driver upon our return trip, and were ushered to benches in the hotel courtyard to await our ride.
It turned out that the only other people going at 8:30am was a couple from Pennsylvania, Sergio and Jessica, and their two small children. By some odd coincidence, we had previously met Sergio in the super mercado a few days earlier while we were asking one of the employees where to find “nueces” or walnuts. He had offered to translate. We knew the word for nuts - “nueces” but the employee didn’t fully understand “nueces” until Sergio intervened. Maybe it was our Wisconsin accent.
Anyway, Sergio, who originally hailed from New York and parents were Cuban, and Jessica, had like us, sold everything and were now exploring with their children. More power to them for finding the resolve, specially with to young children in tow (who were absolutely adorable and so well behaved).
The drive to Monte Albán took us up in elevation to 6,400 feet providing us our first overview of just how large Oaxaca is, sprawled along the foothills of the Sierra Madre at the base of the Cerro del Fortín.
Oaxaca is nicknamed "la Verde Antequera" (the green Antequera) due to its prior name (Nueva Antequera) and the variety of structures built from a native green stone.The name Oaxaca is derived from the Nahuatl name for the place, Huaxyacac, which was Hispanicized to Guajaca, and later spelled Oaxaca.
The van dropped us off at the base of a drive that led up to the museum/visitor center where we purchased our admission tickets. After touring the interior of the museum which offered fine examples of various pottery and other cultural activities, and after availing our selves of the baños, we were ready to begin walking the ruins.
The site rests upon an artificially leveled ridge and is characterized by several hundred artificial terraces, and a dozen clusters of mounded architecture covering the entire ridge line and surrounding flanks. It contains great plazas, truncated pyramids, a court for playing the ball game tlachtli, underground passageways, and about 170 tombs, the most elaborate yet uncovered in the Americas.
Depicted in the museum and again found scattered around the site are carved stone monuments depicting the so-called "Danzantes" (literally, dancers) represent naked men in contorted and twisted poses, some of them genitally mutilated. The 19th century notion that they depict “dancers” has is now been largely discredited, and these monuments, dating to the earliest period of occupation at the site (Monte Albán I), are now seen to clearly represent tortured, sacrificed war prisoners, some identified by name, and may depict leaders of competing centers and villages captured by Monte Albán. Beautiful to look at but grisly when you think of what they represent.
Several pieces of evidence throughout the architecture of the site suggest that there was social stratification within the settlement. Walls that were as large as nine meters tall and twenty meters wide were built around the settlement and would have been used not only to create a boundary between Monte Albán and neighboring settlements but also prove the power of the elites within the community. Apparently social separation by class isn’t a new thing.
Besides being one of the earliest cities of Mesoamerica, Monte Albán's importance stems also from its role as the pre-eminent Zapotec socio-political and economic center for close to a thousand years. Founded toward the end of the Middle Formative period at around 500 BC, Monte Albán had become the capital of a large-scale expansionist polity (the form or constitution of a politically organized unit, or, the form of government of a religious denomination) that dominated much of the Oaxacan highlands and interacted with other Mesoamerican regional states such as Teotihuacan to the north.
The influence of the Teotihuacán architectural style is evident. Monte Albán eventually lost its political preeminence, and its structures began to decay up to the Spanish conquest in the 16th century when the Mixtec inhabited the site; they reused some of the old Zapotec tombs, and the two cultures became fused.
The site was declared a universal heritage site in 1987.
Visiting the site is kind of like visiting the Grand Canyon where the photos did not do it justice until you see it for yourself. Oh, and there are a zillion tall stone steps if you wish to view from higher vantage points. Ongoing continuing archeological and restoration activities were in evidence during our visit.
Catching our van back to the hotel we decided, with little difficulty, to have a mid-afternoon lunch and forego a large dinner. We dropped our backpack and binoculars at the apartment, then walked a block and a half to what has become our favorite local restaurant, La Rambra. Hamburguesa de cameronés para Tom y hamburguesa de portebella para Carol. Tom had a local soda Jega-Cola. Zega-Cola is made a mere 18 miles away from Oaxaca, in a workshop in Santa Ana Zegache, an agrarian Zapotec village. A mortar and pestle is used to pound Arabic gum which is added to seven oils, including cinnamon, lavender, orange, lime and lemon. Final ingredients are citric acid and caffeine, plus caramel for color giving it a near Coca-Cola taste but with all organic, natural ingredients. Would be great with rum, too!
Owing to the walking ’til we dropped we opted to skip happy hour and simply relax with some tea and a little reading before hitting the hay.
Day 10 - Week 2
Oaxaca City - Oaxaca Museum of Cultures
Today was a combination of shopping and scouting for possible areas that our guests on our upcoming bird tour in March may want to visit on their free day prior to the tour.
Carol had been on the hunt for an extra layer of clothes to ward off some of the late afternoon chill. Unable thus far to find anything suitable (apparently it has to be fashionable as well as fit well) in many of the local shops, she learned of a women’s apparel store a few blocks beyond the zocala. We also needed to replenish of supply of coca-cola for adult beverages.
Walking on the narrow streets and sidewalks, ever mindful of traffic, demands that one be looking down (uneven sidewalks, curbs), left and right (other pedestrians) and assuming an aggressive posture when needed crossing streets. Fortunately many drivers, specially the taxi drivers, will stop (but not always) and wave us across. As the tempo of daily traffic, both motorized and pedestrian picks up, so too is the need to be increasingly “situationally aware”. It doesn’t take long to read the flow and go with it.
The women’s apparel shop turned out to have a long-sleeved flannel shirt to Carol’s liking. We also decided that we should stop and have a decent cup of coffee and perhaps something light to eat. And as we have discovered there are no shortages of places to try.
As we walked back toward the zocala via Calle Independencia, we passed what appeared to be a rather high-end hotel, “Parador de San Miquel”. A contemporary 4-star boutique hotel as it turned out.
Ensconced in the hotel was a comfortable looking restaurant, “El Anariego” with very reasonable rates. We managed to find a small table in a brightly lit courtyard which housed a number of caged bird cage, mostly mockingbirds. Very musically inclined, they serenaded us with a variety calls and songs.
We opted for a light breakfast along with our coffee. Interesting side bar: some restaurants, after you are seated and have ordered, will provide a small basket of bread and/or postels along with butter and jams. Much like getting a complimentary a bowl of chips and salsa. Only in these instances, they are not complimentary, which you only discover when presented with the bill. Sneaky. We need to learn to refuse the offering when served - or at least be aware of the extra charge.
Recalling our meeting with a weaver, Alex Martinez at a workshop at Cochise College in Sierra Vista, we further recalled that he had an uncle, a master weaver living in Oaxaca. Via Google we learned that Alex’s uncle, Luiz Martinez, had a shop in the 400 block of the alcalá (the pedestrian walkway).
Making our way up the alcalá in search of Luiz’s shop, we poked around - scouted - in a number of shops looking at ceramics, jewelry and some incredible brightly painted Oaxacan carvings. All for the benefit of our our friends who would be joining us in March. It was a tough assignment but we soldiered on.
At the corner of Calle Abasolo and the alcalá, we found both the shop and Luiz. We introduced ourselves and that we had met Alex. He graciously welcomed us to sit and talk. We informed him that some of the group we have coming for the bird tour would very much like to meet him and peruse his family’s exquisite weavings.
His shop is across the street from Santa Dominga Church where within is found the Museum of Oaxaca Cultures and has an exhibit of the contents unearthed in Tomb 7 at Monte Albán we very much wanted to see.
Designed by Dominican friars and built by native workers, Santa Domingo church and former convent, is one of the finest examples of Oaxacan religious architecture in Mexico. Given the collision of differing cultures and traditions and the fact that Oaxaca is subject to seismic activity, the fact that the structure has endured is quite remarkable.
Built on a grand scale the decoration of the church is hyper-ornate while in the former convent, open spaces and elegant arcades predominate.
Construction of the complex began in 1575 and was not completed until 1608. Construction of the main church and convent was completed in 1619. A Rosary chapel was added in 1731. It at one time housed 150 Dominican friars and novices and was also the center of a Dominican education center.
During the War of Independence through the Mexican Revolution, the church (and convent) was occupied by military troops of various factions, which resulted in the destruction of much of the original interior decoration. Beginning in the 1930’s the church and a small section of the convent was returned to the Dominicans. In 1972 a museum was opened in one section of the convent. 1994 saw the final removal of all military personnel and for the next four years a major restoration took place.
The Santo Domingo Cultural Center was inaugurated in 1998 consisting of the Oaxacan Museum of Cultures (Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca), the Francisco Burgoa library, the Nestor Sanchez periodicals library, and an ethnobotanical garden.
The museum portion has 23 permanent exhibition rooms taking one from historical pre-Hispanic times through to the colonial period and Mexican independence. By far the most impressive display is the room showing the “Treasures of Tomb 7” unearthed at Monte Albán where we had visited the day before.
The Francisco de Burgoa library contains over 30,000 volumes published between 1484 and 1940 plus a reading room. We can only imagine the number of historians who have used the rich research resources of this library.
The ethnobotanical garden was first instigated by Francisco Toledo, a well known artist/activist, with not only a focus on the plants but on their cultural significance. Entrance to the gardens is restricted to guided tours. This is also the location we plan to visit in February for the monthly bird banding session.
The museum was our main target to explore today. Without a doubt, even if one has limited time visiting Oaxaca City, it is a not-to-be-missed site.
It seems that whenever we’re out and about we bump into people we’ve recently met in Oaxaca. Mainly our neighbors but today we ran into people we’d seen briefly during our walkabout at Monte Albán. Fascinating.
After our tour of the museum we stopped in a few more shops near the church then headed back to apartment. Along the way we picked up the coca-cola we were seeking plus Carol found a light shawl for the chilly nights. Traffic always picks up in the afternoon so we were glad to be back at the apartment.
Happy hour again on the roof but there was a bit of a social twist. A couple in a ground floor apartment were celebrating their birthdays and had invited all the neighbors, plus many friends now living outside the complex, for cake and drinks at 7:30. Kind of an extension to happy hour with a brief time in between to have dinner. To prepare for the party held in the courtyard, the caretakers had scooped up many of the plastic chairs scattered around, cleverly lowering the ones from the second story by ropes thus avoiding several trips up and down the concrete steps.
It turned out to be quite the party and again, another opportunity to meet yet more folks who have been long time visitors to the city. What better way to learn about yet more things to do! Plus we could have our cake and eat it too.1/25/2020
Day 11 - Week 2
Oaxaca City
Sabádo, Saturday. Today we opted to take a bit of a breather from our daily 4 or 5 mile hikes. Get caught up on e-mail correspondence, deal with editing and posting all the photos from our visit to Santa Domingo, and make a trek to and from the super mercado for groceries.
One of our neighbors asked if we wanted to borrow a Mr. Coffee coffee maker a previous tenant had left behind and which was not being used. Not big fans of the brewing capabilities of a Mr. Coffee. But given we had up to now been drinking instant coffee, we thought this would be a step up. To that end we purchased some locally grown coffee and coffee filters.
Cloudy and overcast day. Other than our venture out to the mercado, we pretty much put up our feet. Also took a little time to plan for some other outings. Like tomorrow we’ll walk up to Juarez Llano park to meet with the local bird club and see what they’re all about.
One of our neighbors had compiled a list of things do do and places to visit and had ranked suggestions by “if you only had a week, or two weeks, or just a day…”, basically prioritizing the list based on the amount of time one had available. Looking at the list and thinking we had a lot of time, we actually we don’t! Some we’d already accomplished since arriving but still a lot left on the list. Best get cracking!
Day 12 - Week 2
Oaxaca City - Birding
As mentioned previously, on Friday night past, a couple in an apartment on the first floor next to the street had thrown a birthday party for themselves. All the neighbors were invited plus several friends living outside Villa Maria. Probably around 50 total. Nice way to meet more folks and hear about yet more opportunities to explore Oaxaca City.
Alas, the last people to leave the party failed to pull the gate all the way shut (i.e., in a locked state). And the couple, who’s ultimate responsibility it was to check on the gate, had failed to do so. The next morning when a taxi driver arrived at 5:30 he discovered the unlocked gate and word filtered back to Maria.
She took the time to handwrite several notes - lengthy hand written notes - reminding everyone to take precautions. For whatever reason we were spared a note. But safety is, and should be, everyone’s concern.
Today we arose earlier than usual so we could be out the door by 7:15am. A local informal bird group meets every Sunday morning at the southeast corner of Juarez Llano Park at 7:55am. We didn’t want to be late.
Arriving fashionable early at 7:35am we found no one was at the corner but a few minutes later, a couple, Tom and Mary, showed up. Mary wasn’t a birder - she was just making sure that Tom arrived at the correct location. Like us, this was Tom’s first outing with the group. He lived in Ajo , AZ and knew the area around our neck of the woods, Sierra Vista, very well.
Shortly after meeting Tom, a single woman from New York walked up and introduced herself as Linda. This was Linda’s first time in Oaxaca, here on a two week vacation. In fact, it was one of her first trips out of the U.S.. Unfortunately this was her next to last day in Oaxaca and thus far had been stymied - specially as a single woman traveling alone - to find suitable birding trails.
Eventually, more people gathered. Some, like us, for the first time with the group. But a few others, “regulars”, arrived and took charge. A decision was made to walk up toward the Guelaguetza Auditorium on Fortin Hill.
Since colonial times the Guelaguetza festival has been celebrated on the Fortin Hill (Cerro del Fortin). In the 1970s a special auditorium was built specifically for this celebration, though other events are held at the auditorium throughout the year. It has seating for 11,000 people with a large fabric roof which can be opened and closed as needed. Built into the hill, spectators looking down at the stage and are presented with a backdrop of the city below.
On our way to the auditorium we stopped at a water treatment plant where several pipes had small amounts of water leaking. Many birds were attracted to the water. Some to drink and others to bathe.
Rusfous-backed Thrushes were easily seen. Nashville Warblers in good numbers as well as Townsend’s Warblers. A female Ladder-backed Woodpecker and in the distance a pair of Red-lored Parrots.
Continuing on involved ascending lots of steps as we poked and prodded our way looking for more birds. Highlight was several Gray Silky Flycatchers. Eventually we reached the auditorium then continued further up hill toward the site of a planetarium, passing through more dry shrub and grasses. Cinnamon-rumped Seedeater was of particular interest. A furtive look at a dove walking away in dense shrub had everyone speculating on species but in the end, not enough field marks were seen to assign a name. As the daytime temp rose, we turned back and retraced our route to the alcala to look for a place to grab a bite to eat. By now all the group had dispersed and we were left to our own devices.
As we stood at one corner trying to decide where to eat, a woman stopped and asked if we needed help finding something. Mind reader I guess. Or maybe it was Carol's crazed hunger look.
In any event, she gave us two suggestions. One for a German restaurant and one for a Mexican restaurant. The latter was more on our route back to the apartment but after a few blocks we couldn't find the place based on her description. Something to do with the bones of a dead animal. The German restaurant, however, was easier to find. Well, the building was easier to find. The restaurant was finally found by entering the building, going into a courtyard, up a flight of stairs and across a catwalk. Not very well signed but once we arrived we were thrilled with the place.
“Berlina”.
A German restaurant? Quite. Bratwurst was on the menu. Plus sauerkraut. And, they had a vast selection of good beer - many local craft beers. It was overwhelming. Eric, our waiter, suggested we split the "Bierwurst", a pork brat cooked in a dark beer, presented with cheese, french fries, and a pasta salad plus fresh baked bread. Perfect size for us. And it was yummy, specially the rye bread.
Eric brought out five stouts - four from Oaxaca and one from Mexico City. I went for the one with 8.2% alcohol content. Felt like a nap at the end of the meal. “Can we rent this table?" Carol had a Coke. What can I say.
The woman who owns the Berlina is indeed from Germany. And boy, does she know how to bake bread! We're going to have to go back. Maybe when Marge is here. By the way, Berlina makes a very good mezcal margarita. So they say. Carol sampled some of the local gin and found it to her liking. We’ve not found much in the way of gin for her to have any martinis but we did get a lead on where to buy this gin. There’s hope.
We have found that Appleton Special Rum is in fact very inexpensive compared to back in the states so there’s that. And, we were told that on Super Bowl Sunday, the super mercado marks all their liquor down by 30%. That will be worth checking out. Might have to take a taxi back.
Back on the alcala we searched for and found a shop, Voces de Copal. It had some of the finest alebrijes - brightly painted wood carvings - we've seen. This is one shop our birding group on their free day must see.
Having learned to poke our heads into buildings we pass, we found another museum, the museum of contemporary art of Oaxaca, this one featuring the works of Robert Rébora. Upstairs another media inspired exhibition of videos produced by various artists captured many aspects of Mexican life from food production to scenes from recent protests. The exhibit consisted of multiple small and large screens using video projectors, flat panel TVs and older VCRs. It being Sunday, entrance was free. Free is good.
We stopped at a small corner mercado to pickup some more Coke which turned out cheaper than buying at the super mercado. And easier to carry back since it is a shorter distance to our apartment.
Our neighbors who told us about the bird banding session which they were able to attend today, were on their way out to a concert. They would miss happy hour where we’d hoped we would hear more about the banding. Just as well since after our over six mile jaunt we were too pooped to participate. Instead a meal of homemade chili (maybe next time Carol will remember to add the beans?), we made a short night of it retiring a bit early.
Unfortunately, we had to decline an offer to purchase tickets for the upcoming Porgy and Bess presentation at the local opera house owing to the fact that it occurred on the same night as the mezcal tasting. It didn’t take a rocket scientist to understand that walking to the opera house in an inebriated condition probably wouldn’t be the cleverest of moves. Maybe in our younger years? Now, we were older and wiser. Well, older.
Day 13 - Week 2
Oaxaca City
Not having to get up so early we slept in this morning - past 6:30am. Our first outing was to drop off laundry at a local laundry about a block and a half away. They charge by the pound - our two kilos came to $45 pesos - roughly $2.50 USD for two pairs of shorts, 8 shirts. They'll be ready tomorrow at 5:00pm.
There was a Messenger message from Hector, the former Conto Nuevo musician Tom had met in 1990, now living in Veracruz. The distance to Veracruz is about eight hours by bus so when Hector mentioned he was coming to Oaxaca in early February for a weekend, Tom was overjoyed. They still have to work out the details of where to meet.
A quick round trip to a mercola for veggies and bananas (the small sweet ones). Out again to try the Chocolate Hotel ("La Chocolate y Mole La Soledad), a family business started in the 1930's. You can order just about any combination of chocolate ingredients to be made up on the spot. The chocolate in Oaxaca tends to be a bit gritty (not unpleasantly so) from the chocolates we find in the states. We were presented with several choices of hot chocolate. We settled on the Chocolate Especial using milk with almonds and cinnamon.
The serving came in a large bowl which was quite filling (glad we declined the bread). Also bought a small package of chocolate samples. There were also three moles with chips to sample. I fear Carol has decided she doesn't like moles (I very much liked what I sampled). She has also indicated she's not keen on mezcal. Oh, oh.
We forged on to Boulenc for a light lunch. Americano frio (iced coffee for me) and orange juice for Carol. She opted for the croissant with ham and cheese and I had the croissant with kale and spinach and tomato. You know me. Ever so health conscious.
From there we ventured three blocks further to seek out one of the three local craft beer joints recommended on a Oaxaca craft beer web site . This one was La Santisima Flor de Lupulo. Right next door was Gormund Deli, owned by the brewery. Tempted to try a flight of beer but after lunch and all that chocolate… We'll wait for another day.
While having lunch at Boulenc we chatted with a young couple from California and gave them several tips on a few of our favorite places for which they were grateful. Imagine us. Only here ten days and we’re already able to give advice. While perusing the menu at La Santisima, we bumped into a youngish couple with a small child, also from California and shared some local info. Checking out a few shops along the way back to our apartment, we bumped into more couples from California. It must have been California day.
Day 14 - Week 2
Oaxaca City - On a misón
Our mission for today was to determine the precise breakfast schedule and offerings at the Hotel Misión where our birding group will be staying during the March tour. Plus it was a good opportunity to get a feel for the lay of the land and see for ourselves what the hotel was all about.
This required walking a handful of blocks north of Juarez Llano Park and crossing a major thoroughfare. On the way we stopped at Marco Polo restaurant to inquire about making a reservation for our group during their free day prior to the beginning of the tour. Turns out they could handle a group of twelve with enough advance notice.
Arriving at Misón we we stopped at the temporary reception area (the regular location was receiving a major facelift) to request a tour of the facility. After determining that we did have a group coming, a young woman who spoke broken English, escorted us through the property. She showed us one of the rooms we would be using plus the restaurant. The main reception area being remodeled, we were assured, would be finished by March 1. The hotel owner’s daughter was being married and the reception was going to be at the hotel. No doubt it would be done by the appointed date and before our group’s arrival.
After our hotel tour we walked to the ethnobotanical garden to purchase tickets for the 11:00am tour. Tickets were not being sold just yet so we walked a short distance to a small cafe to have coffee and share a croissant filled with a blackberry filling before returning to the gardens.
The process to purchasing tickets was a bit odd. We were first asked to be seated in a long line of chairs against a wall. One of the attendants explained some of the basic rules that we would be called up, in the order we were seated, to go to the ticket office. Only one member of a family or group would need to collect tickets. When it was my turned I purchased our tickets and returned to my seat. Shortly thereafter, a guide called us to another area to begin the tour. Probably 45 of us in the group.
The tour (given in English) wound up being heavy on the “ethno” portion and light on the “botanical” portion. Interesting. But, we had read enough about how the botanical garden’s history and the indigenous people’s cultural uses. We had brought our binoculars as the gardens are supposed to be good for birding. And we did pick up a few birds but given the size of the group and that we had to keep moving, mainly on narrow trails, any serious birding was nearly impossible. We did happen to run into another birder, Tom, who had been on our Sunday morning bird walk a few days earlier.
Afterward it was time for lunch. We made our way to another restaurant, the Pan Am, a recommendation by one of our neighbors. My highlight was a delicious horchata frappe topped with whipped cream and cinnamon. We also wanted to peruse the place to see if it would hold our group for lunch. Again, probably with a prior reservation, it could work.
As is so typical, we poked our way around the area sticking our heads into doorways and corridors that looked interesting. We found a small galería (gallery) of contemporary ceramics. The artist, Vicente Hernández, is the same artist who created small cups used for sipping mezcal that one of our neighbors used.
Another courtyard we stumbled upon was the “Nacimiento Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos” which contained a series of 25 photographs depicting two settlements in the central valley. The photos, first taken in the 1950’s and again in 2019, with the photographer standing in the same spot years later. The comparison illustrated how urbanization gradually replaces agricultural landscapes; the deforestation and re-forestation. The early photographs were the works of Dr. Juan Ignacio Bustamante Vasconcelos, a military physician.
During our walkabouts we’ve learned that some street names change depending upon whether or not one is east or west of certain north south calles (streets). There doesn’t seem to be a pattern. If an address is on Calle Mina and we’re walking west on Calle Arteaga, that beyond the north-south calle Bustamante, the street name changes. Also, building address numbers don’t always follow a numerical sequence. However, remembering finding addresses in Costa Rica…Costa Rica doesn’t use street names OR numbers. When taking a taxi one simply recites the nearby landmark of commercial building nearest where you want to go.
Another interesting exhibit we found was the Diablos de Juxtlauca, the Devils of Juxtlauca, a cave and archaeological site in the Mexican state of Guerrero. It was in the Centro Cultural San Pablo which also has a very nice library. There was a smaller exhibit of textiles on loan from the textile museum.
The artist, Alejandro Vera Guzmán, carved life sized wooden masks incorporating all manner of colors and design. The masks are worn from time to time in public during certain performances or festivals. They represent “spectacular guardians of the moral order” as the mask allows a “means to be another”.
Having put in our 5+ miles we returned to relax a bit in the apartment, catch up on email and reading. At 5:00pm Tom retrieved our laundry. Then it was happy hour. Dinner was more chili - this time with beans - then off to bed.
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